[AtlanticBlue99]

Because the V6 has a slow aftermarket that is just now beginning to grow, here I will list the best basic mods you can buy and where to buy them from.

Rear End
Before discussing a rear end gear change, read this article. Now, There are two ways to ger a locking rear end with steeper gears in you V6; 1) Buy an 8.8" rear out of the same model Mustang and just bolt it in. Now, you will probably get a stock ring and pinion ratio exact to what you took out, but you can always buy the 4.10:1 gears for the 8.8" rear. 2) Rebuild your 7.5" into a locking unit. Buy a Trac Lok differentiala and 4.10:1 ring and pinion gears from Driveline Specialists on ebay for the best deal on an all-inclusive new kit. If you plan on putting slicks on the rear or making over 400 rwhp, build an 8.8" over the 7.5", because the 7.5" has weaker axles.

This is the best N/A mod for the money.
note: you will need a tune to correct the speedometer.


Exhaust

Long Tube Headers:
MAC is the only company making production long tube headers for the V6 Mustang. If you live up north where rust may present itself an issue, get the Ceramac coat on the headers. If you want them to last, ge tthe Ceramac coat. Don't skip the few bucks for the coating, because after the pain of the install, you only want to do this once!


Short Tube Headers:
The only reasons you would want Short Tube Headers is if you had a specific turbo application (which nobody makes for the V6 Mustang) or if you had visual inspection emissions testing. Long Tubes fail a visual emissions test in many states. JBA makes a great set of Short Tube Headers.


Mid Pipe:

H-Pipe or X-Pipe? For our V6 Mustangs, the firing order of the engine is an even one, so no performance is gained between the Straight ( l l ) setup, the H-Pipe ( H ), and the X-Pipe ( X ). However, the H pipe produces a better, deeper sound.

Catalytic converters (Cats) or "Off-Road?" Do you have emissions testing? If you have emissions testing, keep 1 set of highflow cats.


Cat Back:
With cats- run a muffler like the Flowmaster 40 or 50 Series for the best Without cats- run nothing louder than a Flowmaster 50 Series, and most prefer the Magnaflow quality, flow, and sound on off road applications over the Flowmasters.


Tune
The SCT XCalibrator 2 is the best tuner currently on the market. Contact Justin at VMPTuning.com for a great tune on the V6 and greats parts/deals for future mods. With an automatic transmission, You can fine tune shift points, spark and timing, and download an application-specific "power" tune for 93 octane fuel to get the most out of your V6.

This is the second-best N/A mod for the money.


These are the basic bolt-on modifcations you can to still maintain a 14-second N/A V6 Mustang that can be driven to work everyday.

Also, look into some suspension modifcations for a "road course" or a "drag strip" application. Maybe a supercharger is in your future? Check out the 8 and 11 psi kits Justin offers at VMPTuning.com.

[ckthecerealkiller]

Hey don't forget the UDD Pullies!! 5 hp for about 100 bucks! Plus it has been known to boost fuel economy slightly!

[AtlanticBlue99]

I won't ever recommend something that has caused me trouble. Aluminum pullies in GA heat don't mate well, and mine warped, cracked my harmonic balancer, and threw off my timing- bad issue.

[ckthecerealkiller]

Originally Posted by AtlanticBlue99 I won't ever recommend something that has caused me trouble. Aluminum pullies in GA heat don't mate well, and mine warped, cracked my harmonic balancer, and threw off my timing- bad issue.

No prob I understand your dillema.

I have seen them work just fine though but only with a max of two pullies, I've seen guys with small pullies all over the place and it did mess up their car.

I live in a place where if it breaks 100 people call in for work sick..... So it isn't very hot around here.

I wouldn't have use aluminum though, metal against rubber belt can be bad news as it is! (Under heavy heat under your hood anyway)

Oh I forgot to say NICE WRITEUP!!!!!!!

Thanks for another one!!!!!!!!

[AtlanticBlue99]

Originally Posted by ckthecerealkiller Originally Posted by AtlanticBlue99 I won't ever recommend something that has caused me trouble. Aluminum pullies in GA heat don't mate well, and mine warped, cracked my harmonic balancer, and threw off my timing- bad issue. No prob I understand your dillema. I have seen them work just fine though but only with a max of two pullies, I've seen guys with small pullies all over the place and it did mess up their car. I live in a place where if it breaks 100 people call in for work sick..... So it isn't very hot around here. I wouldn't have use aluminum though, metal against rubber belt can be bad news as it is! (Under heavy heat under your hood anyway) Oh I forgot to say NICE WRITEUP!!!!!!! Thanks for another one!!!!!!!!

Alternator pullies are metal, so is the crank pulley stock... Aluminum is a softer metal more sensitive to heat, but most of the pullies are metal. Cheap pullies are plastic compounds.

Thanks dude. I just want to get the basic questions out there answered right away, so when it is time for more in depth debate on an issue, the members are educated enough to kind of find their ways through the discussion.

[ckthecerealkiller]

Originally Posted by ckthecerealkiller Originally Posted by AtlanticBlue99 No prob I understand your dillema. I have seen them work just fine though but only with a max of two pullies, I've seen guys with small pullies all over the place and it did mess up their car. I live in a place where if it breaks 100 people call in for work sick..... So it isn't very hot around here. I wouldn't have use aluminum though, metal against rubber belt can be bad news as it is! (Under heavy heat under your hood anyway) Oh I forgot to say NICE WRITEUP!!!!!!! Thanks for another one!!!!!!!! Alternator pullies are metal, so is the crank pulley stock... Aluminum is a softer metal more sensitive to heat, but most of the pullies are metal. Cheap pullies are plastic compounds. Thanks dude. I just want to get the basic questions out there answered right away, so when it is time for more in depth debate on an issue, the members are educated enough to kind of find their ways through the discussion.

I helped my friend hand make a set of heavy duty plastic pullies and they have worked fine he even overheated the engine cause the moron forgot the radiator coolant....... LOL!

2500 miles still going strong.

But anyway great idea. Usually most of the posts we get are asking these questions so this should help A LOT of people out.

Reminders always help!

[AtlanticBlue99]

Exactly. You know, just something to get people started on what is out there and how it works. I think general education could spark better forum topics and more interesting debates on what will and won't work. We all know that since the aftermarket for the V6 is so small, we have to fabricate and customize almost every modification to make it work.

[ckthecerealkiller]

Very nicely put!

It is because of heavy modders like yourself and others that there is a growing market out there!

Forums and new professional drag cars all about the v6 can hvae more of a drastic effect on the market then most people think. Not to mention how much more v6's are out there in the first place.

Word of mouth travels fast!

[mrhnky36]

wuts up guys, im new to this site. can anyone help me out on how to get the most horsepower out of my engine. its a stock v6. i just got it from this guy. thanks in advance

[00SoSlow]

what year are we lookin at


mostly full exhaust, gears, tune, t-lok, intake, blower?

[AtlanticBlue99]

Originally Posted by 00SoSlow what year are we lookin at mostly full exhaust, gears, tune, t-lok, intake, blower?

Look at a cam for a finalized modification. You won't get more than 400rwhp out of a 3.8L block for a street aplication. A blower and full bolt ons can get you over 400-450rwhp