Understanding a 4.2 stroker
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Old February 28th, 2012, 02:19 AM   1 links from elsewhere to this Post. Click to view. #1
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Understanding a 4.2 stroker


VV--- Ignore that, I was tired and misread some information ---VV


OK, let me start out by saying, I'm in no way a mechanic, but I have a pretty good understanding of mechanical science. I'm having a little trouble understanding the main differences between grabbing a lower end out of an f150 and buying a stroker kit from ssms or something of the like.

From what I've seen, the v6 in the mustang and v6 f150 are the same motor (essex v6), both have the same bore, so, it would seem, you just take the crank, rods and pistons out of the f150 (or alternatively, take the block, since it is the same) and slap your top end on, and you have a 4.2. The thing is, the 03-04 mustangs make 190hp, and the f150 4.2 makes 203 or something like that, so that's a 13hp gain.

Now, ssms claims that their stroker kit will increase up to 90hp, and all they include is the crank, rod, and pistons as well. They also advertise their kit as a 4.3 "long rod" kit.

Now, I'm assuming since the cylinder is the same size regardless, the pistons are shorter for the extra .1l of displacement, but where does the extra 77hp over the f150 come in? surely not from the extra tenth of a liter of displacement.

I'm assuming the longer rods, which would put the displacement range farther up in the cylinder, makes more compression, which leads to more hp since the amount of space displaced is at a larger percentage to the total space of the cylinder over stock?


In short, I'm curious why it seems the 4.2 f150 lower end only makes 203hp, but smss stroker kit can make 280. As I said, I'm not a mechanic, so I'm really just trying to learn this stuff and rationalize concepts with my pretty basic mechanical knowledge (not to mention it is 2:30am), so I could be waaaay off track. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

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Old February 28th, 2012, 02:22 AM   #2
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the ssm stroker motor longblock has ported big valve heads, fully ported intakes and a perfomance camshaft, thus making a lot more power than a stock top end 4.2
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Old February 28th, 2012, 02:30 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by southfour! View Post
the ssm stroker motor longblock has ported big valve heads, fully ported intakes and a perfomance camshaft, thus making a lot more power than a stock top end 4.2
I was asking strictly about their stroker kit as stated. The sell a crank, rod and piston kit. Thanks though
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Old February 28th, 2012, 02:35 AM   #4
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where does it say the stroker kit makes 280?

this is all i see

Long Rod 4.3 Stroker Kit Rotating Assembly
Long Rod 4.3 Stroker: New 4.2 crank, SCAT forged stroker Hbeam
rods, ARP rod bolts, Wiseco forged pistons, rings, pins,
and lox: $1800. Our long-rod approach is superior, clearancing
of the crank or the block is not required& the longer rod improves
internal engine geometry for improved performance.
Options: King/ACL main/rod bearings: $150, iron flywheel/
flexplate & balancer: $350, balancing: $250, SFI billet aluminum
flywheel: $425, SFI billet harmonic balancer (neutral only),
$425, windage tray/girdle/main stud/oil pickup/dipstick/oil pan
kit: $425
Race-prepped crankshaft (shown): Magnafluxed, deburred of
rough edges & casting flash, counterweights contoured & radiused
to reduce power-robbing windage, completely polished &
professionally shot peened for improved strength & durability:
$900 Best crank for BIG power & higher RPMs !

http://www.supersixmotorsports.com/p...dInternals.pdf
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Old February 28th, 2012, 02:37 AM   #5
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it says their longblock can make 280+

Mustang, Supercoupe, T-Bird, Cougar, F-150
“Long Rod” 4.3 stroker crate engines are the simple bolt-in solution to your performance
and reliability needs without V8 engine swap expense and hassles. These are complete
engines, not just a long block. Dyno-proven to over 600 horsepower with power adder,
these engines can be tuned to produce 280-375 horsepower naturally aspirated. “Long
Rod” engines feature 8.7-11:1 compression ratio, seasoned 99-04 3.8 block, new 4.2
crankshaft, SCAT forged H-beam rods, ARP rod bolts, Wiseco forged pistons, Stage 3
PowerPak, SSM billet cam, stud mount 1.7 roller rockers, hardened pushrods, girdle, oil
pan, pickup, dipstick, balancer, and flywheel/flexplate. Internally balanced, machined,
torque plate honed, aligned, decked, glyptal sealed, painted and assembled. Delivered
complete, just transfer timing cover, water and oil pumps, accessories, sensors, injectors,
motor mounts, etc. We offer a complete but less expensive 4.2 stroker engine with forged
pistons and stock rods for naturally aspirated applications.
Long Rod 4.3 Stroker: $8000, $450 core
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Old February 28th, 2012, 02:41 AM   #6
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If I'm not mistaken, the 1800 dollar kit is just the crank, pistons, rods and not a full engine. The crate i believe your talking about is 8000.
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Old February 28th, 2012, 02:44 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by maneatinggoldfsh View Post
If I'm not mistaken, the 1800 dollar kit is just the crank, pistons, rods and not a full engine. The crate i believe your talking about is 8000.
that is correct but i dont see where it says that only crank, rods and pistons will make 280
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Old February 28th, 2012, 02:50 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by southfour! View Post
that is correct but i dont see where it says that only crank, rods and pistons will make 280
Wow, I feel like an idiot. I'm tired and confused what I had read earlier on their power pack setups. Those make up to 90 extra hp. Sorry for the confusion, no wonder it seemed impossible for the lower en upgrades to make that much. x_x

I guess my new question is this, what is the advantage if any of te ssms stroker vs 4.2 bottom end?

Thanks again for the help
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Old February 28th, 2012, 09:11 AM   #9
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you really cant say that the crank, rods, piston, will give you 280+ because if you give it 8:1 comp ratio your killing power instead of making it. There is a lot more than just a rotating assemly is going to give you 280+. Capable yeah with supporting mods and right specs. I have a lot of supporting mods and built my engine for a twin turbo setup. Roughly with mine im around 300-325 n/a at the wheels.
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Old February 28th, 2012, 09:12 AM   #10
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ssm stroker has H-beam rods, and forged pistons. 4.2 crank
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Old February 28th, 2012, 11:12 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Stanger00 View Post
ssm stroker has H-beam rods, and forged pistons. 4.2 crank
I was speaking in terms of dimensions. I know that the ssms set is comprised of sturdier parts, but I was just curious if anyone knew of dimension differences. What makes the ssm kit 4.3 and the f150 4.2? Why is it "long rod"?

Am I correct to assume that the pistons are shorter to get the extra .1l? And are the rods "long rod" because they're longer than stock, longer than the typical 4.2 or what? Sorry if I'm asking the type of questions most people say "It just is what it is" to, but I like to understand these kind of concepts before I continue with a project.

If anyone is curious, my current goal with this car is to pick up one of the many 4.2 motors laying around in my area, tear it down to block and heads, then more or less throw my top end on. I plan to port the heads while they're off, and I'm also looking at picking up a cam from ssms. Fully rebuilt engine will be had for approx 1000-1100 plus a couple days work.

Everything I've looked at between the 4.2 and 3.8 seems the same as far as systems, so it should just drop in and be good to go if I'm correct. No need for new fuel system or anything like that.

Let me know if you guys have any suggestions.
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Old February 28th, 2012, 11:23 AM   #12
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A 4.3 is bored out. The rods from the 4.2 and 3.8 are the same. The wrist pin is set deeper ibto the piston to accomodate for the extra stroke length on the 4.2. you can use 351w rods as well if i remember correctly.

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Old February 28th, 2012, 01:36 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Fink View Post
A 4.3 is bored out. The rods from the 4.2 and 3.8 are the same. The wrist pin is set deeper ibto the piston to accomodate for the extra stroke length on the 4.2. you can use 351w rods as well if i remember correctly.

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I'm not sure how the ssms 4.3 is bored. They sell the crank/pistons/rod as a drop in kit.

Also, just curious why you mentioned the 351w rods. Im assuming because they're stronger (seeing as they came out of much larger engine). but with the stock 351 rods being ibeam too, is the strength worth hunting them down (actually there's a set of rods on ebay for 20 dollars that the guy says are good. Just need cleaned and inspected)?

Sorry if I'm asking too many questions guys, I try to make sure I search as much as possible before asking anything. I just want to get this stuff down before I tear my engine apart. I wish they had a site with specifics like rod length, piston depth, ect for all these ford engines. If they do, I have yet to find it. x_x
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Old February 28th, 2012, 03:41 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Stanger00 View Post
you really cant say that the crank, rods, piston, will give you 280+ because if you give it 8:1 comp ratio your killing power instead of making it. There is a lot more than just a rotating assemly is going to give you 280+. Capable yeah with supporting mods and right specs. I have a lot of supporting mods and built my engine for a twin turbo setup. Roughly with mine im around 300-325 n/a at the wheels.
What did you swap a 4valve?
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Old February 28th, 2012, 10:25 PM   #15
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There 10 sec drag racer makes 278..
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Old February 28th, 2012, 11:07 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by ESG-642T View Post
What did you swap a 4valve?
Actually thats what my inital plan was to do. I ended up doing the stroker kit, because of too many moving parts and a lot of costs for the 4 valve I had bumped the compression up and went with a comp cam custom grind cam that was made to compliment the stage 3 heads with roller rockers and p&p lower intake. This will make staggering hp numbers with more additions in the future. I also made a custom stainless upper intake to use the GT factory 70mm throttle body and plenum witch will soon be upgraded. I will get some pics up of the intake if anyone is interested. And yes it is a 351 rod but im not going into details because that will just take money away from tom at ssm. Also I would like to note he advised me that with the proper equipment from him. He claims the engine will hold a 300 shot of n2o.
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Old February 28th, 2012, 11:19 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Stanger00 View Post
Actually thats what my inital plan was to do. I ended up doing the stroker kit, because of too many moving parts and a lot of costs for the 4 valve I had bumped the compression up and went with a comp cam custom grind cam that was made to compliment the stage 3 heads with roller rockers and p&p lower intake. This will make staggering hp numbers with more additions in the future. I also made a custom stainless upper intake to use the GT factory 70mm throttle body and plenum witch will soon be upgraded. I will get some pics up of the intake if anyone is interested. And yes it is a 351 rod but im not going into details because that will just take money away from tom at ssm. Also I would like to note he advised me that with the proper equipment from him. He claims the engine will hold a 300 shot of n2o.
You should also post this 300+ dyno sheet to go with the upper intake.
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Old February 28th, 2012, 11:20 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Stanger00 View Post
Actually thats what my inital plan was to do. I ended up doing the stroker kit, because of too many moving parts and a lot of costs for the 4 valve I had bumped the compression up and went with a comp cam custom grind cam that was made to compliment the stage 3 heads with roller rockers and p&p lower intake. This will make staggering hp numbers with more additions in the future. I also made a custom stainless upper intake to use the GT factory 70mm throttle body and plenum witch will soon be upgraded. I will get some pics up of the intake if anyone is interested. And yes it is a 351 rod but im not going into details because that will just take money away from tom at ssm. Also I would like to note he advised me that with the proper equipment from him. He claims the engine will hold a 300 shot of n2o.
Stock TB is 65mm on a GT...

Half that. I talked to him too. With the right head studs (which are on back order and he has no idea when the will be back in stock) your can spray up to 150. I have undercut head studs because that is all I could find, and they will hold about a 90 shot.

I talked to tom about a bunch of details and I actually bought things from him.
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Old March 1st, 2012, 02:45 PM   #19
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should I read any of this ?
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Old March 3rd, 2012, 01:02 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by Mr. Red Pony View Post
Stock TB is 65mm on a GT...

Half that. I talked to him too. With the right head studs (which are on back order and he has no idea when the will be back in stock) your can spray up to 150. I have undercut head studs because that is all I could find, and they will hold about a 90 shot.

I talked to tom about a bunch of details and I actually bought things from him.
Stock TB the one I actually put my hands on and have on my car is 70mm. I personally had called and emailed etc. You are probably thinking just the rotating assembly can handle 150 shot. I have the main girdle and everything which he told me. he personally puts a 300 shot no problem. Also he said not to rev the engine beyone 6500 to be on the safe side because it is a cast crank and anything past that will go boom. DON'T WORRY I ACTUALLY PURCHASED STUFF FROM HIM PERSONALY AS WELL
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