Radiator........

lwhitetrash88l · June 23rd, 2007, 06:40 PM

i think i need a new one cuz my engine heats up too quick.....anyway.....should i just get an OEM replacement? or an aftermarket racing one? and also where is the best place to buy from and how much you think it is?

02ponypackage · June 23rd, 2007, 06:41 PM

its called searching......u wont know good deals till your try...ebay will be a start and the classifieds in forums...but thats just me

El_Cangri · June 23rd, 2007, 08:44 PM

you can go to the junkyard and get one there from a stang

ByPopularDemand · June 23rd, 2007, 09:46 PM

I got some supposed performance one...it was lighter and the car has run a hair cooler on the guage, but I didn't get any extra power

aj28 · June 24th, 2007, 03:46 AM

Mishimoto is the only company I know of that makes aftermarket performance radiators for the V6 platform Mustang. Like BPD said, there's no real performance difference between the two options, so if you can you might want to go ahead and save yourself money by getting an OEM replacement. If not...

http://www.americanmuscle.com/mishim...diator-04.html

Onemanzu · June 24th, 2007, 09:33 AM

thepartsbin.com might be able to ship a replacement one for cheap to you... im not sure though...

... so after your head gasket swap and some other odds and ends your car is still throwing a fit? uhh have you looked at the thermo? if that one is an after market... their are some that don't have by-pass holes that really heat up quick... mine is like that and it gets right up to 160 in about a minute or two flat

lwhitetrash88l · June 24th, 2007, 10:46 AM

Originally Posted by Onemanzu

thepartsbin.com might be able to ship a replacement one for cheap to you... im not sure though...

... so after your head gasket swap and some other odds and ends your car is still throwing a fit? uhh have you looked at the thermo? if that one is an after market... their are some that don't have by-pass holes that really heat up quick... mine is like that and it gets right up to 160 in about a minute or two flat

yeah i just replaced the thermostat with a 180 failsafe. what are bypass holes?

Onemanzu · June 24th, 2007, 11:05 AM

... did you take out a stock one??

if so did you notice the little hole deali-o one it with a ball in the center that "appereared" to hinder flow? or anything of that nature...

what that does is allow coolant through no matter what... now if your new thermo doesn't have one... such as mine... then they will heat up in a flash versus stock... which has a by-pass... which allows longer warm up time.... but puts less pressure on the gaskets... ( or so i have been told)

lwhitetrash88l · June 24th, 2007, 11:36 AM

Originally Posted by Onemanzu

... did you take out a stock one??

if so did you notice the little hole deali-o one it with a ball in the center that "appereared" to hinder flow? or anything of that nature...

what that does is allow coolant through no matter what... now if your new thermo doesn't have one... such as mine... then they will heat up in a flash versus stock... which has a by-pass... which allows longer warm up time.... but puts less pressure on the gaskets... ( or so i have been told)

yeah the failsafe basically works as a regular thermostat then when i does go bad instead of getting stuck shut it springs to the open position so it doesntcause your engine to overheat but.....for some reason it keep fucking running hot and i cant figure out why.....so im thinking its my radiator but i dont know....someone also had said that i might have a clog

Onemanzu · June 24th, 2007, 11:47 AM

well look at the other clogged post... on this forum... should be top page still and follow my simple red neck flushing method... and see if that improves performance... but i cannot promise anything at all

how hot does the gauge read? is this just sitting in your drive way running hot... or is it on the wide open roads or what? i might be able to guide further... not sure though

lwhitetrash88l · June 24th, 2007, 01:19 PM

Originally Posted by Onemanzu

well look at the other clogged post... on this forum... should be top page still and follow my simple red neck flushing method... and see if that improves performance... but i cannot promise anything at all

how hot does the gauge read? is this just sitting in your drive way running hot... or is it on the wide open roads or what? i might be able to guide further... not sure though

no not sitting in the drive way. its out on the road when driving.....i can liek barely drive it for liek 20 minutes without worrying about the temp. The gauge reads all the way up in between the letters A and L in the word NORMAL on the gauge face....so it gets pretty hot......

El_Cangri · June 24th, 2007, 07:04 PM

Originally Posted by lwhitetrash88l

Originally Posted by Onemanzu

... did you take out a stock one??

if so did you notice the little hole deali-o one it with a ball in the center that "appereared" to hinder flow? or anything of that nature...

what that does is allow coolant through no matter what... now if your new thermo doesn't have one... such as mine... then they will heat up in a flash versus stock... which has a by-pass... which allows longer warm up time.... but puts less pressure on the gaskets... ( or so i have been told)

yeah the failsafe basically works as a regular thermostat then when i does go bad instead of getting stuck shut it springs to the open position so it doesntcause your engine to overheat but.....for some reason it keep fucking running hot and i cant figure out why.....so im thinking its my radiator but i dont know....someone also had said that i might have a clog

have you check ur engine oil..??

lwhitetrash88l · June 25th, 2007, 12:16 AM

Originally Posted by El_Cangri

Originally Posted by lwhitetrash88l

Originally Posted by Onemanzu

... did you take out a stock one??

if so did you notice the little hole deali-o one it with a ball in the center that "appereared" to hinder flow? or anything of that nature...

what that does is allow coolant through no matter what... now if your new thermo doesn't have one... such as mine... then they will heat up in a flash versus stock... which has a by-pass... which allows longer warm up time.... but puts less pressure on the gaskets... ( or so i have been told)

yeah the failsafe basically works as a regular thermostat then when i does go bad instead of getting stuck shut it springs to the open position so it doesntcause your engine to overheat but.....for some reason it keep fucking running hot and i cant figure out why.....so im thinking its my radiator but i dont know....someone also had said that i might have a clog

have you check ur engine oil..??

yeah my oil is good

El_Cangri · June 25th, 2007, 12:19 AM

clog

we alredy told u lots of things i cant think of anything more

lwhitetrash88l · June 25th, 2007, 02:52 PM

how much does it usually cost to get it unclogged or should i buy a new radiator?

El_Cangri · June 25th, 2007, 09:00 PM

i dunno prices shoulnt it be much $$ tho... if the fins of ur rad looks all fucked up IMO buy a new one....

97TunedMustang · June 25th, 2007, 10:29 PM

Check your radiator first and foremost. top it off with water and run the car with the cap off. purge the bleeder valve till a steady stream of fluid comes out, then close it off. After that continue to add water till it comes up to the neck and let all air bubbles out before replacing the cap (assuming there are air pockets potentially stuck in the system).

If you do all this and you still have overheating problems then i would say there is a good chance you also have a head gasket problem like the other guy on this forum.

When the car is overheating check and see if you have heat from your vents. if you do not then thats a sign of a blown gasket, but also a sign of air pockets thats why you need to make sure there are none of those in the system first. then check if your radiator fluid has changed color or has any odd colored floaties in it. if the head has blown and is pressurizing the coolant system it prevents it from functioning properly and will leave mushy grey carbon deposits on the radiator cap and inside of the filler neck. Also you can have the radiator fluid tested to see if there is any carbon in it, and if so then you'll have your answer real quick

lwhitetrash88l · June 25th, 2007, 10:45 PM

i just replaced my head gasket not too long ago though, im talking like maybe 4 months ago....i noticed today when going down the road that if i have my heater blowing full blast then it keeps the engine a lil cooler. and what do i do when removing the bleeding bolt.....do i take it all the way out or just open it a tad so that water comes out a lil bit....because if i were to pull it completely off then id have a hell of a lot of coolant everywhere.....and my engine is stilll running strong so i dont know how it could be my head gasket again....

97TunedMustang · June 25th, 2007, 10:58 PM

what year mustang do you have? if its a 94-98 did you replace the head gaskets with the upgraded MLS (multi layer steel) version? Also even when headgaskets go you wont see any appreciable difference in your performance. It happened to my 97 and i can tell you the only signs of the blown head gasket were no heat inside the car, and carbon build up in the radiator. nothing else changed. no performance loss, no funny smells, no funny colored exhaust smoke either.

for the bleeder bolt just open it a few turns at most and go slowly till you start seeing fluid come out then a little more till you get a very slow but steady small amount coming out. if there is air in the system you will see bubbles and fluid coming out of this area. You dont take it out all the way though!, just enough for some fluid to slowly start seeping out.

lwhitetrash88l · June 25th, 2007, 11:35 PM

i have a 96 and yeah i got the MLS felpro gasket kit when i did it. so let me get this straight......when its heating up...there should be heat coming from the vents if the air conditioning and what not is in the off position correct? but is that only if its over heating? because mine doesnt like......overheat it just gets abnormally hot lol

June 23rd, 2007, 06:40 PM	#1
lwhitetrash88l Enthusiast 2004 Mustang Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Florida Posts: 536 iTrader: 0 reviews	Radiator........ i think i need a new one cuz my engine heats up too quick.....anyway.....should i just get an OEM replacement? or an aftermarket racing one? and also where is the best place to buy from and how much you think it is?

June 23rd, 2007, 06:41 PM	#2
02ponypackage MM Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Central FL Posts: 3,405 iTrader: 0 reviews	its called searching......u wont know good deals till your try...ebay will be a start and the classifieds in forums...but thats just me __________________ just a V6 with a bad belt slip under the hood

June 23rd, 2007, 09:46 PM	#4
ByPopularDemand Hardcore Enthusiast 2000 V6 Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Albuquerque Posts: 2,666 iTrader: 0 reviews	I got some supposed performance one...it was lighter and the car has run a hair cooler on the guage, but I didn't get any extra power __________________ 2000 V6 vert Mac LT headers, Mac O/R H-pipe, Mac CAI, ASP 25% underdrive pulley(r.i.p), SCT tune, 8.8 rear and 4.10 gears.

June 24th, 2007, 09:33 AM	#6
Onemanzu ¡ʇsnq ɹo uʍop ǝpısdn Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Looking for free hand jobs in poland springs nebraska... silly gooses Posts: 12,551 Blog Entries: 1 iTrader: 0 reviews	thepartsbin.com might be able to ship a replacement one for cheap to you... im not sure though... ... so after your head gasket swap and some other odds and ends your car is still throwing a fit? uhh have you looked at the thermo? if that one is an after market... their are some that don't have by-pass holes that really heat up quick... mine is like that and it gets right up to 160 in about a minute or two flat __________________ My Foz

June 24th, 2007, 11:05 AM	#8
Onemanzu ¡ʇsnq ɹo uʍop ǝpısdn Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Looking for free hand jobs in poland springs nebraska... silly gooses Posts: 12,551 Blog Entries: 1 iTrader: 0 reviews	... did you take out a stock one?? if so did you notice the little hole deali-o one it with a ball in the center that "appereared" to hinder flow? or anything of that nature... what that does is allow coolant through no matter what... now if your new thermo doesn't have one... such as mine... then they will heat up in a flash versus stock... which has a by-pass... which allows longer warm up time.... but puts less pressure on the gaskets... ( or so i have been told) __________________ My Foz

June 24th, 2007, 03:46 AM	#5
aj28 Newbie Join Date: Jun 2007 Posts: 18 iTrader: 0 reviews	Mishimoto is the only company I know of that makes aftermarket performance radiators for the V6 platform Mustang. Like BPD said, there's no real performance difference between the two options, so if you can you might want to go ahead and save yourself money by getting an OEM replacement. If not... http://www.americanmuscle.com/mishim...diator-04.html

June 24th, 2007, 11:47 AM	#10
Onemanzu ¡ʇsnq ɹo uʍop ǝpısdn Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Looking for free hand jobs in poland springs nebraska... silly gooses Posts: 12,551 Blog Entries: 1 iTrader: 0 reviews	well look at the other clogged post... on this forum... should be top page still and follow my simple red neck flushing method... and see if that improves performance... but i cannot promise anything at all how hot does the gauge read? is this just sitting in your drive way running hot... or is it on the wide open roads or what? i might be able to guide further... not sure though __________________ My Foz

June 25th, 2007, 02:52 PM	#15
lwhitetrash88l Enthusiast 2004 Mustang Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Florida Posts: 536 iTrader: 0 reviews	how much does it usually cost to get it unclogged or should i buy a new radiator?

June 25th, 2007, 10:29 PM	#17
97TunedMustang Enthusiast Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 965 iTrader: 0 reviews	Check your radiator first and foremost. top it off with water and run the car with the cap off. purge the bleeder valve till a steady stream of fluid comes out, then close it off. After that continue to add water till it comes up to the neck and let all air bubbles out before replacing the cap (assuming there are air pockets potentially stuck in the system). If you do all this and you still have overheating problems then i would say there is a good chance you also have a head gasket problem like the other guy on this forum. When the car is overheating check and see if you have heat from your vents. if you do not then thats a sign of a blown gasket, but also a sign of air pockets thats why you need to make sure there are none of those in the system first. then check if your radiator fluid has changed color or has any odd colored floaties in it. if the head has blown and is pressurizing the coolant system it prevents it from functioning properly and will leave mushy grey carbon deposits on the radiator cap and inside of the filler neck. Also you can have the radiator fluid tested to see if there is any carbon in it, and if so then you'll have your answer real quick __________________ 95 Civic Ex, FnF1's, Morimoto Mini h1 retrofit, GSR, bbk intake, BDL tb, 57trim t3/t4 8psi, 297whp 96 Civic Ex 2dr, G3 HID retrofit, FnF type 1's, Si cluster, Obd1 Z6 swap

June 25th, 2007, 10:45 PM	#18
lwhitetrash88l Enthusiast 2004 Mustang Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Florida Posts: 536 iTrader: 0 reviews	i just replaced my head gasket not too long ago though, im talking like maybe 4 months ago....i noticed today when going down the road that if i have my heater blowing full blast then it keeps the engine a lil cooler. and what do i do when removing the bleeding bolt.....do i take it all the way out or just open it a tad so that water comes out a lil bit....because if i were to pull it completely off then id have a hell of a lot of coolant everywhere.....and my engine is stilll running strong so i dont know how it could be my head gasket again....

June 25th, 2007, 10:58 PM	#19
97TunedMustang Enthusiast Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 965 iTrader: 0 reviews	what year mustang do you have? if its a 94-98 did you replace the head gaskets with the upgraded MLS (multi layer steel) version? Also even when headgaskets go you wont see any appreciable difference in your performance. It happened to my 97 and i can tell you the only signs of the blown head gasket were no heat inside the car, and carbon build up in the radiator. nothing else changed. no performance loss, no funny smells, no funny colored exhaust smoke either. for the bleeder bolt just open it a few turns at most and go slowly till you start seeing fluid come out then a little more till you get a very slow but steady small amount coming out. if there is air in the system you will see bubbles and fluid coming out of this area. You dont take it out all the way though!, just enough for some fluid to slowly start seeping out. __________________ 95 Civic Ex, FnF1's, Morimoto Mini h1 retrofit, GSR, bbk intake, BDL tb, 57trim t3/t4 8psi, 297whp 96 Civic Ex 2dr, G3 HID retrofit, FnF type 1's, Si cluster, Obd1 Z6 swap

June 25th, 2007, 11:35 PM	#20
lwhitetrash88l Enthusiast 2004 Mustang Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Florida Posts: 536 iTrader: 0 reviews	i have a 96 and yeah i got the MLS felpro gasket kit when i did it. so let me get this straight......when its heating up...there should be heat coming from the vents if the air conditioning and what not is in the off position correct? but is that only if its over heating? because mine doesnt like......overheat it just gets abnormally hot lol

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