[8A_Honda]

Just bought a 94 V6 convertible for my g/f for $500. It's needing a headgasket job and the heads are about ready to come off. Couple of questions though. What's the headbolt torque specs and are the head bolts reusable? Also, what about the rockers? Anything specific I need to know when putting it back together as far as installing the lifters, rockers, etc.? This is my 1st headgasket job on a car that didn't have a timing belt.

Thanks for any info/advice.

Scott

[El_Cangri]

search here for tq specs

http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...es-vt1779.html

[8A_Honda]

Thanks. But this can't possibly be right. I know I strained to break them loose and this torque is very minimal to me. I would've figured upwards of about 100 ft/lbs to finish it off. Not 19 with an additional 90 degrees.

Cylinder head bolts
1994 and 1995
Step 1................................................. .........15
Step 2................................................. .........29
Step 3................................................. .........37
Step 4................................................. .........Loosen 2 to 3 turns (DO NOT loosen all the bolts at the same time, from this point on work on one bolt at a time)
Step 5
Long bolts............................................. ...11 to 19
Short bolts ...............................................7 to 15
Step 6................................................. .........Tighten an additional 90-degrees

And are they reusable? Thanks.

[El_Cangri]

get em new...

u dont want em to brake while putting em again case they r PITA

(thanx chris for teaching me the new abreviation or w.e lol)

[itschristorres8]

lol no prob

[Juggalo_X]

Originally Posted by 8A_Honda Thanks. But this can't possibly be right. I know I strained to break them loose and this torque is very minimal to me. I would've figured upwards of about 100 ft/lbs to finish it off. Not 19 with an additional 90 degrees. Cylinder head bolts 1994 and 1995 Step 1................................................. .........15 Step 2................................................. .........29 Step 3................................................. .........37 Step 4................................................. .........Loosen 2 to 3 turns (DO NOT loosen all the bolts at the same time, from this point on work on one bolt at a time) Step 5 Long bolts............................................. ...11 to 19 Short bolts ...............................................7 to 15 Step 6................................................. .........Tighten an additional 90-degrees And are they reusable? Thanks.

this is the 100% correct way to torque your head bolts, you strained to remove them because they are a stretch bolt, there for they are not reusable unless you want another blown head gasket very quickly. also this torquing procedure above like i said is 100% correct it looks funny for 2 reasons #1 its making sure they head is sitting on there and getting a good seal and #2 its stretching the bolts hence the procedure that your unfamiliar with.

[8A_Honda]

It's not the procedure, it's the low number of ft/lbs that concerns me. Sure I could probably put that much torque on it with a 3/8 dr. ratchet. Lol. Thanks though.

[Juggalo_X]

Originally Posted by 8A_Honda It's not the procedure, it's the low number of ft/lbs that concerns me. Sure I could probably put that much torque on it with a 3/8 dr. ratchet. Lol. Thanks though.

torque is in with spec. and yah i could put 100 ft/lbs with a 3/8 drive too its not that that difficult. want reassurance go buy a Haynes Manual. torque them to specs listed here then give them an extra 180 degrees to stretch and set the bolt.

[8A_Honda]

Not doubting ya. Just sounds really low. I guess cause my Talon was 100ft/lbs. Lol. Anyway, thanks for the help. Hopefully that's all I need for now.

[8A_Honda]

Okay I'm trying to install now. And of course now I see why the head torque specs are the way they are cause that's pretty f'in tight after that last degree turn.

Anyway, next question. Putting in the pushrods, do I need to have each cam lobe pointing down each time I tighten down a rocker? Do I need to worry about valve lash adjustment? Tried searching but only came up with answers for when installing aftermarket cams and I don't have a book for this car to go off of....just my car. Thanks.

[chevy_killer]

Originally Posted by 8A_Honda Okay I'm trying to install now. And of course now I see why the head torque specs are the way they are cause that's pretty f'in tight after that last degree turn. Anyway, next question. Putting in the pushrods, do I need to have each cam lobe pointing down each time I tighten down a rocker? Do I need to worry about valve lash adjustment? Tried searching but only came up with answers for when installing aftermarket cams and I don't have a book for this car to go off of....just my car. Thanks.

no just tighten each rocker down til the pushrod doesnt turn then tighten the rocker another 1/4 turn then you should be set

[8A_Honda]

Sweet, thanks for the info. Been waiting all day to hear that before touching it. Lol. Thanks.

[chevy_killer]

Originally Posted by 8A_Honda Sweet, thanks for the info. Been waiting all day to hear that before touching it. Lol. Thanks.

no problem

[8A_Honda]

Well, I appreciate the help but that definately isn't doing the job. I tightened them down until I couldn't spin the pushrods and did the 1/4 turn like ya said and then noticed the rockers weren't pushed down all the way. Probably had like a 1/4 inch gap under some of them.

Aside from that, anyone know the plug gap? I've searched but only see one guy talking about his gap with nitrous....which this car won't have. Thanks.

[stephen]

Originally Posted by 8A_Honda Well, I appreciate the help but that definately isn't doing the job. I tightened them down until I couldn't spin the pushrods and did the 1/4 turn like ya said and then noticed the rockers weren't pushed down all the way. Probably had like a 1/4 inch gap under some of them. Aside from that, anyone know the plug gap? I've searched but only see one guy talking about his gap with nitrous....which this car won't have. Thanks.

I don't really understand this procedure. The rocker arms are torqued to a spec. irrespective of valve adjustment. The shop manual does say to tighten each one with the valve on the back of the cam, though I have never done it that way on a pushrod engine. I think the concern is with getting accurate torque, which might be modified by the valve spring pressure if the valve is open.

The valve adjustment is controlled by the hydraulic lifters and isn't adjustable unless you have some kind of modified valve train.