[Buttaz]

So once I get imageshack working ill show you what I mean, but on the head and gasket you can obviously tell where the gasket blew (#6 cylinder, closest to front of car on drivers side). But if you look closely at the #4 cylinder (closest to cab on drivers side) the ring on the gasket looks really worn, almost blown, and the metal ring at the edges of the head are enlarged. I would almost describe it as a "lobe" in the ring. I have no clue what that would be, any thoughts?




And what are your thoughts on sidepipes? I have access to tube bending equipment and welding supplies. . .

suggestions? input? lets hear it!

[99v6stang]

Dont know about your head gasket, but side pipes are not cool. The tear off easily on speed bumps , and lose power, i would not reccomened them at all.

[Juggalo_X]

then i can help

[Cricket]

side pipes usually yield less power gains then rear exit pipes because of the extra bends and such. The more bends in a tube the more restrictions and more turbulence the less power.

[stephen]

[quote="Buttaz"]So once I get imageshack working ill show you what I mean, but on the head and gasket you can obviously tell where the gasket blew (#6 cylinder, closest to front of car on drivers side). But if you look closely at the #4 cylinder (closest to cab on drivers side) the ring on the gasket looks really worn, almost blown, and the metal ring at the edges of the head are enlarged. I would almost describe it as a "lobe" in the ring. I have no clue what that would be, any thoughts?

Your cylinder numbering isn't standard (4 and 6 are interchanged), which might be important when you hook up the plug wires.

I assume these are the old style head gaskets not the newer MLS (multilayer steel) gaskets. You will want to substitute MLS gaskets and get the heads surfaced since the MLS gaskets require a smoother surface finish. The old gaskets tended to fail because the aluminum head expands more when hot than the steel block and the gasket was constantly being stressed. The MLS gasket is much stronger and also has a viton coating which seals minor surface imperfections and also is slippery so the gasket can move against the head. Honda had a similar problem and used a graphite coated gasket to permit it to move.

As long as the gasket surfaces are good and the head bolts are torqued correctly you should have no problem. Use new head bolts of course.

Make sure you know how the head gaskets go in. The small coolant hole goes toward the front on both sides. The gasket is actually blocking off front coolant passageways.