[itschristorres8]

Ok i've finally found the time to make this thread. ill provide as many pictures as possible and a very summed up version of the install.
This thread is to give V6'ers an idea what to look for in a turbo kit if you happen to find an old TMA turbo kit for sale or something else.

Before I decided to turbo my car i had these modifications:
Cold Air Intake---Off ebay
Flowmaster true dual exhaust.
Underdrive Pulleys
Ford Racing C springs
MSD 8.5mm spark plug wires
Screamin Demon Coil Pack
and a SCT Xcal2 that i could never get a tune for my car for.




that fastest i could get the car to run in the 1/8th was a 10.1 which is about a 15.8 in the 1/4 mile..but i never had a good day at that track nor a good launch when i installed the t-lok.

I purchased my kit from TMA Turbo...a company or website owned by Andy littleton who no longer makes kits for V6 mustangs any more unfortunately.


here are pictures of my turbo pipes the day i got them:




Exhaust




other extras i needed for the project included:
custom made EGR block off plate i made
SCT Ba2800 MAF
42lb injectors
1heat range colder plugs
and a boost gauge
and a t-lok i got for better traction..this is more optional
as well as a Spec Stage 2 clutch
and 65mm throttle body

pictures:










the rest of my turbo kit consisted of
tubro
intercooler
wastegate
blow off valve
hoses
fittings
new overflow
clamps
filter etc...
pictures:












anyway this is a summed up version of the install with SOME pics:

First thing i did for install was take out the battery:


after the battery i did other simple things. such as remove spark plug wires, hoses, overflow bottle, Cold air intake, exhaust w/e was in my way. also the fan shroud as well.





then jacked the car up and removed my front bumper:





after that was when the real Pain in the ass parts started...
i removed my stock exhaust manifolds(headers) and installed my turbo manifolds. trick was i had to switch up 2 header studs in order to install them, which i didnt realize till i kicked my ass for 2hourse drilling larged holes on the flanges. this was only for the drivers side...
the passenger side was actually very easy to install compared to the other. no studs had to relocated. and with the a/c lines bent out of the way it made slipping it in to position VERY easy compared to the dirvers side...

picture:






after bolting down both turbo manifolds, i realized i needed to tap the oil pan...or rather forgot..and the passenger side header was in the way...so i had to un-bolt that and look for a tap and drill for it.. that was done and was VERY easier..do not fear tapping!!!

the next step was the cross over pipe. to make installing the wastegate and turbo easier. i placed those on first before dropping it in the car. once i lifted it up..i realized the crossover with the turbo and wastegate was VERY heavy and not easy to do alone..so with some string i got it on

Pictures:







so the next parts were a little easier...the colder side pipes. also known as intercooler pipes. so i put the first on coming straight off the turbo. then the U pipe that connected to that..with the blow off valve. next i figured it'd be easier to connect the pipe leading to the intake and an L bent pipe that went from the intercooler to that. this way i could put the intercooler on a jack and position it in place easy.








i later realized when the car was on the floor the intercooler was EXTREMELY low..and later raised it
anyway after the intercooler was in place i did the oil return and feed lines... installed the fittings and used plenty of teflon tape to prevent leaks.

after that i connecter my first piece of the exhaust dump. and then added my overflow bottle. adjusted power sterring hoses(put them back on) and w/e else on to start the car. such as wires. plugs etc...

pictures:




i started the car, it was EXTREMELY loud but everything went fine. i drove the car around un-tuned stock injectors for a lil

videos
http://s46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...t=SANY0269.flv

http://s46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...t=SANY0281.flv.






after that was done i went on to raising the intercooler and install my tune and fuel injectors.
then installed the rest of the exhaust which was a pain in the ass to do the second exhaust dump, i had to relocated my brass fittings with the brake lines connected to it...which is located under the master cylinder. after a while of trying, cursing i finally got it in. and bolted up the rest of the exhaust and later went to an exhaust shop to get a magnaflow muffler on.

finally i was done with my set up. 3.6psi turbo




video:

YouTube - Turbo V6 mustang2

YouTube - turbo v6 mustang 15-100

the car is now at 6psi making 279rwhp and 292rwtq
dyno graph:










video:

YouTube - Turbo V6 mustang2

[itschristorres8]

well there it is finally dont know if anyone will use this but its here anyway...

heres a summary on parts function and how the turbo works


ok from the hot air that runs out the exhaust ports into your exhaust manifolds that air goes to either 1 or 2 turbos...at a certain rate(rpm) enough air will spin a propeller in the turbo(exhaust turbine) enough to create BOOST..on the other side you have the compressor which is wat feeds the boost to the intake...the propeller spins throwing air into the pipes to your intake


boost is controller by a wastegate, the wastegate has a valve that opens a certain amount depending on boost spring or what the boost controller sets it at letting a fixed and controlled amount of boost occur...with out one...you'll boost w/e the turbo wants to..which is VERY unsafe.

the intercooler...basically you have air to air which is very popular and air to water...
both are good setups but for daily driving i'd say an air to air intercooler is better. basically the pipes that come off the compression holding this forced air will go through the intercooler for well COOLING so your air going into your intake is cooler and not so hot.
its a very good investment!

somewhere along the intercooler piping its a good idea to have either a blow off valve or bypass valve...both are to release or recycle the air in the atmosphere or back to the turbo or exhaust instead of the throttle shaft.

a blow off valve. is what makes the woopshh sound that most people know off...basically will open at a certain rate of pressure to realease air pressure in the air...bypass recirculates back to the turbo i believe.


anyway those are the main components of a turbo and turbo kit

[tjames]

sweet man nice write up and info. to bad TMA closed down

[AtlanticBlue99]

hey i have a Q. why is the power curve not smooth like most dyno graphs? is the engine safe at higher rpms?

[itschristorres8]

Originally Posted by AtlanticBlue99 hey i have a Q. why is the power curve not smooth like most dyno graphs? is the engine safe at higher rpms?

just a base Xcal2 tune...its safe since its rich at higher rpms...its probably like 260rwhp how i have it now...
it has lots of room to grow, but why get a dyno tune when im going to get tuned for 10psi =)

[AtlanticBlue99]

Originally Posted by itschristorres8 Originally Posted by AtlanticBlue99 hey i have a Q. why is the power curve not smooth like most dyno graphs? is the engine safe at higher rpms? just a base Xcal2 tune...its safe since its rich at higher rpms...its probably like 260rwhp how i have it now... it has lots of room to grow, but why get a dyno tune when im going to get tuned for 10psi =)

i gotcha. you would be borderline 300 with a serious dyno tune :award

[itschristorres8]

Originally Posted by AtlanticBlue99 Originally Posted by itschristorres8 Originally Posted by AtlanticBlue99 hey i have a Q. why is the power curve not smooth like most dyno graphs? is the engine safe at higher rpms? just a base Xcal2 tune...its safe since its rich at higher rpms...its probably like 260rwhp how i have it now... it has lots of room to grow, but why get a dyno tune when im going to get tuned for 10psi =) i gotcha. you would be borderline 300 with a serious dyno tune :award

thats what im thinking 285-295 was more my guess. but im not gonna pay $500 for that..then go to 10psi...might as well get tunedfor 10psi


i'd love to see what i'd make with a real dyno tune

[TurboLX]

It came out sweet Chris!

[wadepetersen]

good job but what is the difference between the spring and a boost controler from what it sounds like you have to change out the springs if you want more boost and a boost controler is like a dial you just turn to get mor boost. I may be wrong on that but what is the difference and which one is better

[TheUNZippee!]

Just a small fyi: It's not really the exhaust flow that spins the impeller in the turbo. Although that contributes to it, the main factor that spins the impeller is the rapid expansion of the hot exhaust gases inside the housing.

Excellent write-up Chris. If I ever am able to afford my turbo, I'll have someone to look to for tips.

[itschristorres8]

Originally Posted by wadepetersen good job but what is the difference between the spring and a boost controler from what it sounds like you have to change out the springs if you want more boost and a boost controler is like a dial you just turn to get mor boost. I may be wrong on that but what is the difference and which one is better

here is how the boost controller works...your wastegate MUST have a spring in order to change boost. w/e that spring is rated at...say 5psi...then you cannot boost lower then 5psi only more with the boost controller...

theres manual boost controllers and electronic...

i myself prefer just the spring...this way i can raise boost when im tempted.

manual boost controller from what i heard is just a pain in the ass. its hard to determine what boost your really at and how much you've raised it..

usually with a boost controller you can gain a lil over double the spring rate...
example:
if you have a 5psi spring you can boost about 12psi maybe a little more

the same is with an electronic boost controller only difference is the electronic boost controller uping the boost is much easier and safer.
you can raise the boost 1psi at a time, rather then more or less guessing with the manual boost controller. with the manual boost controller you have a knob to turn and you've got to self, figure out how much of a turn raises boost etc...
but some are different
1/4 of turn could be 2psi or 1psi or 5psi
1/2 turn might be almost fully open. so staying at a certain psi level isnt easy.

[wadepetersen]

ok
so if you have just have the spring you can up it to a little more than double the spring than you have to change it out and if you dont have a boost controller you just stay at the spring rate

how do you change the boost with a eleronic boost controller and do you have to change the spring with a eletronic one just like with the manuel one

[itschristorres8]

Originally Posted by wadepetersen ok so if you have just have the spring you can up it to a little more than double the spring than you have to change it out and if you dont have a boost controller you just stay at the spring rate how do you change the boost with a eleronic boost controller and do you have to change the spring with a eletronic one just like with the manuel one

the electronic boost controller has a digital screen usually and 2 buttons.
one button to raise boost the other to decrease


if you have a 5psi spring the lowest you can boost is 5psi...which on any motor is pretty much safe with the correct tune.
the boost controller allows you to boost
5psi
6psi
7psi
8psi
9psi
10psi
and 11-14 maybe be an option depending on the boost controller...usually i believe its about double the spring rate


i like to stick with springs alone because i know if i have a 6psi spring...im gona boost no more then 6 and no less

sometimes the boost controllers arent to accurate...sometimes...they usually are though if you spend your money right

springs are about $40 after shipping and tax
manual boost controller is about $100-$200

electronic your looking at $300+ usually

[Juggalo_X]

Nice dude very nice

[97TunedMustang]

electronic boost controllers are expensive but manual ones are cheap as balls. if you're payin $100-$200 for a manual boost controller, thats just entirely too much. You can get pretty dece ones on ebay for $20-$45

[wadepetersen]

I see

[3.8Coastie]

thats awesome chris. i wish i had the money to do all that with my stang. too bad tma doesnt do stang kits anymore. id love to get one... or some kind of roots / twin screw s/c

[Onemanzu]

Originally Posted by 3.8Coastie thats awesome chris. i wish i had the money to do all that with my stang. too bad tma doesnt do stang kits anymore. id love to get one... or some kind of roots / twin screw s/c

M90 that ho

[3.8Coastie]

Originally Posted by Onemanzu Originally Posted by 3.8Coastie thats awesome chris. i wish i had the money to do all that with my stang. too bad tma doesnt do stang kits anymore. id love to get one... or some kind of roots / twin screw s/c M90 that ho

i would but to get all the parts needed for it would be a bitch... damn im jealous chris!!! lol. im down in key west now.. i think its like 3 1/2 - 4 hours from ft. lauderdale right?

[itschristorres8]

i think so. never went there =/

im glad its on tho. tons of fun