[pilot37]

UGH!!
i keep on tryin to come up with a final plan for what to do as far as mods go but i keep on changin my mind!!
i dont wanna start moddin until i know exactly what im gonna do; i think it'll be cheaper & more beneficial (powerwise) in the long run to plan everything and then do it

first of all:
thanks to all u senior guys that help us noobs out, haha...rep 4 all that help with this

so heres my goal:
To have the absolute fastest n/a new edge vert 6er out there

ive heard two different approaches to modding: start from the inside & work out & start from the outside & work in
i think i agree with the former as things such as exhaust & cai dont actually give that much of a performance gain unless your car/engine can do stuff with that air. but on the other hand, mods on the inside are generally more expensive. & i'd rather start small & get bigger so i can build confidence as it gets faster (if only a little) with each mod


so the plan as of now:
1.Steeda Triax
2.MAC straight shot w/ 73mm MAF
3. MAC LTs
MAC Prochamber
MAC catback w/ 3.5" tips
4.Eaton 8.8 posi lsd
4.10 gears
31 spline shaft
5.SCT L/w
6. Foose 18x8.5s & 18x9.5s
Nittos
7. Suspension
not to knowledgeable on suspension, if i get Eibach's pro-system plus;4
does that include sfcs? control arms? will i need those? what about
strut tower braces?
8.asp u/d pulleys
9.full body kit w/ wing & hood
10. lights
11. window tints

so theres the list so far. i'm still workin on the list for the inside (cams, rockers, ported intakes, etc...) i need to learn a bit more before i get a set list

but what do u think of the 1-11 list? any brands u recommend over the ones i listed?

ps...anyone know the winning lotto numbers?

[BWAL09]

to have the fastest new edge vert you're gonna need some type of forced induction.. what are your plans for the car? race car? street/race car?

[6banger96]

he wants the fastest n/a new edge

[3.8Coastie]

if you are going for performance then dont worry about the body kit and visual mods.. they can cost a lot and take from your performance funds. the list sounds good and that is what many of us MM vets would recommend. as for the engine internals make sure you have decided to go N/A before getting these. there are different compression ratios and parts you will need to switch between N/A and FI. as for beefing up the tranny... do you have an auto or manual? the tranny definitely needs some beefing up even if its only a new performance cluth.. or maybe a short throw shifter. dont forget a Dyno tune.. even though you are getting the Tivewire.. you should still get the dyno tune AFTER all the mods are done for the best possible performance for what you have. also look into weight reduction.. verts are heavy so that should definitely be on your list

[Onemanzu]

switch four and five... and rebuild your engine instead of 8...

and for suspension ... i just got done talking to a guy ... actually ...

here is what he said.

I would leave the stock springs for right now. If the shocks and struts are in good working order, I would not replace those right away either (If they are bad, I would replace them immediately). What you should concentrate on is chassis bracing and replacing all of the worn out rubber in the suspension. You should install these items (In order of priority) * Tokico D-Specs…but only if the original shocks and struts are bad! (part# DSP-4) * XL Series Full Length Subframe Connectors (part# MMFL-3PC) * Strut Tower Brace (part# MMSTB-4.1) * Front Control Arms (part# M-30075-D) * Rear Lower Control Arms (part# MMRLCA-2) * Rear Upper Control Arms (part# M-5500-A) & Diff Bushings (part# E4SZ-5A) * Caster Camber Plates (part# MMCC9994) * Steering Rack Bushings (part# MMST-7) * Panhard Bar (part# MMPBA) * Eibach Swaybar System (part# 3518.320) * Eibach V6 Specific Pro Kit (part# 3518.140) & New Urethane Spring Isolators (part# 6-1703-BL & 6-1701-BL) When you are done installing these parts, you will have what you are looking for. Please let me know if you have any questions. Jason R Jacques jason@maximummotorsports.com Tel: 805.544.8748 Fax: 805.544.8645 Sales/Tech Support

and IMO that is a very solid approach to upgrading suspension... i will be taking it a step further and do a few extra things and will be using Bilsteins instead... i think

[pilot37]

its a 5spd. i think a spec stage 2+ clutch will handle it cuz its still gonna be n/a. short throw is # 1 on the list, lol. street/race. but also wanna be able 2 race it up the mtn rds. dyno will be as soon as i get the l/w. for sure n/a. once i win the lotto i'll get a new gt for pure as shiit fastness to mod out with everything, just wanna keep this one pure. ive gotta get the body kits cuz fast has to look sexy. c/f kits could help me out w/ weight reduction cuz i still wanna keep it fully functional w/ back seats & all

[El_Cangri]

if u really want to be n/a get a 4.4 stroker that n/a only not for F.I

umm 4.10s and tlok everything else is ok and like omz wrote above.

[tjames]

well if your going strictly for speed first your going to have to rule some of thease out for other think. do you want to do both performance and appearance or do you want just performance???

1.Steeda Triax- not goong to add power, just shorter shifts which could lead to a slightly quicker 1/4 mile

2.MAC straight shot w/ 73mm MAF- to get the full benifit you are going to want to port the upper/lower intakes or get the windstar intake.

3. MAC LTs- good choice, this will give you more HP over shorties which do almost nothing and the L/ts will help it breather better... i hope you have no emmissions

MAC Prochamber -also a good choice

MAC catback w/ 3.5" tips- ok

4.Eaton 8.8 posi lsd - this will handle more power but not esencial untill your bushing over 300RWHP

4.10 gears- great for the track and non- highway driving, on a side note, your 1st gear will be VERY short
31 spline shaft

5.SCT L/w- good call!!!!!!!

6. Foose 18x8.5s & 18x9.5s -if your going got the fasted N/A car your going to want some lighweigh wheels not 18's, more like 17's at the most, better off with ligh weight 16'S, but lighter weight then stock

Nittos- good

7. Suspension
not to knowledgeable on suspension, if i get Eibach's pro-system plus;4
does that include sfcs? control arms? will i need those? what about
strut tower braces? - for handling, go woth eibach pro-kit or sportlines, adjustable shocks and struts, strut tower brace, sub frame conecters

8.asp u/d pulleys- good

9.full body kit w/ wing & hood- maybe, if its painted CF to reduce weight

10. lights- not performance

11. window tints- not performance

if your striving toward the fastest n/a car and a track car you have alot of work ahead of you. is this going to be a DD or a DD that you take to the track or just a track car???

[El_Cangri]

ohh and ur a vert u need some suspension work since ur chassis flexes

[El_Cangri]

bilstein FTW

[3.8Coastie]

haha just noticed the Steeda Triax. C/F doesnt help much over fiberglass.. maybe like a 2 pound difference. for suspension do like OMZ said in his quote... good set-up IMO. as for the body kit please dont get a riced out kit. stage 2 clutch should be good for N/A.. the body kit can get expensive for 1) getting a good kit, 2) installing the kit, 3) painting the kit. it sounds like you know what you want so the next step would be to set up a financial plan for the mods and your goals of what you want and when you want it... remember that a good idea when modding is to save up double the amount of the part before getting it.. to cover the shipping and unstallation,,, and in case anything goes wrong and added funds are needed.

[El_Cangri]

also divide the modding by stages i.e suspension first then driver train followed by engine (just example)

[pilot37]

it'll b a track car that i'll take out ONCE in a while to the mtn rds. i first learned stick in a special edition miata w/ SUPER short throw. u could tap the clutch & flick the shifter & it would pop into the next gear, haha. ive been missin that since i been drivin stangs so i want the short throw. i want performance and appearance but not to the point where it sacrifices performance (other than financially).
anyone know who makes good lightweight wheels that still look good?

[Onemanzu]

no matter what you need one of these

“Long Rod” 4.3 stroker crate engines are the simple bolt-in solution to your performance and reliability needs without V8 engine swap expense and hassles . Dyno-proven to over 550 horsepower, these engines can be tuned to produce 280-390 horsepower naturally aspirated. “Long rod” engines feature 8.7-11.5:1 compression ratio, seasoned 99-04 3.8 block, new Ford 4.2 crank, SCAT forged 351/408W stroker H-beam rods, ARP rod bolts, Wiseco forged pistons, Stage 2+ PowerPak, SSM CompCams billet cam and stud mount 1.7 roller rockers, TrickFlow hardened pushrods, main studs, girdle, proper oil pan, pickup, dipstick, balancer, and flywheel/ flexplate. Professionally neutral balanced, machined, torque plate honed, aligned, decked, glyptaled, and assembled. Delivered complete, just transfer timing cover, water and oil pumps, accessories, sensors, injectors, motor mounts, etc. We also offer complete but less expensive 3.8 and 4.2 stroker engines with forged pistons for every budget, same detail and quality.

[3.8Coastie]

steeda ultralights look good and are well.. as the name says.. ultralight lol

[pilot37]

Originally Posted by El_Cangri if u really want to be n/a get a 4.4 stroker that n/a only not for F.I umm 4.10s and tlok everything else is ok and like omz wrote above.

4.4 stroker will run me $4-5k so that'll be in the next stage when i start dealing with internals

[pilot37]

Originally Posted by Onemanzu no matter what you need one of these

siiiiiik

[Onemanzu]

1.Steeda Triax
2.MAC straight shot w/ 73mm MAF
3.MAC LTs
MAC Prochamber
MAC catback w/ 3.5" tips
4.SCT L/W
5.Eaton 8.8 posi lsd
4.10 gears
31 spline shaft
6.Foose 18x8.5s & 18x9.5s
Nittos
7.Suspension
Complete with MM goodies.
8.Long Rod 4.3
9.Full Saleen body kit w/ wing & hood
10.All odds and ends, including lighting, tinting, maybe a black cloth top, under drive pulleys... things like that.


There is your list in my order, that is how you should build it in my honest opinion...

then for step 11... when you are craving that extra get up and go...

11. Zex Direct Port 150 shot and windstar intake.

[pilot37]

Originally Posted by 3.8Coastie haha just noticed the Steeda Triax. C/F doesnt help much over fiberglass.. maybe like a 2 pound difference. for suspension do like OMZ said in his quote... good set-up IMO. as for the body kit please dont get a riced out kit. stage 2 clutch should be good for N/A.. the body kit can get expensive for 1) getting a good kit, 2) installing the kit, 3) painting the kit. it sounds like you know what you want so the next step would be to set up a financial plan for the mods and your goals of what you want and when you want it... remember that a good idea when modding is to save up double the amount of the part before getting it.. to cover the shipping and unstallation,,, and in case anything goes wrong and added funds are needed.

haha, no worries, i'll never go rice

& good idea bout savin double

[El_Cangri]

well i'm off to freaking bed. U can p.m if u want i will gladly help u out.

ohh forgot some bigger injectors would be nice unless he buy a new motor with em..

also if u wanna go cheap buy a F150 4.2 v6 rebuild it and put it in just if u wanna go cheap its nice.

but if u can buy a brand new 4.3 built to ur futures specs