[agrigar]

My son went to start his car last night, nothing.
We tried jumping it, still nothing.
Took the battery to be tested, holding a full charge.
When we disconnect the battery cable the lights com on inside the car & under the hood. As soon as he tries to start it, everything goes dead.
We also hear a fast clicking noise coming from the back blinker area.

Anyone have any clue as to what causes this or how to fix it?

[zdrainxx]

i ha d afriend who had a problem like this on a car a while ago, but it wasnt a mustang. shit ill hit ya up if/when i remember.

[itschristorres8]

possibly the alternator, happend with my car

[AtlanticBlue99]

the clicking noise is your fuel pump working. it could be a dead cell or bad battery despite what it tested at. my car has tested for 13v battery charge off and 12.4v battery on and had 3 dead cells which in turn killed the alternator and i needed to replace both. you say your lights work when the battery is disconnected?

[turp]

Originally Posted by AtlanticBlue99 the clicking noise is your fuel pump working. it could be a dead cell or bad battery despite what it tested at. my car has tested for 13v battery charge off and 12.4v battery on and had 3 dead cells which in turn killed the alternator and i needed to replace both. you say your lights work when the battery is disconnected?

Each cell in the battery carries 2.1 volts. if it had a dead cell the voltage would be 10.5 and so-on. If you batt. has a full charge I would look toward the starter. Start with the fuses/ relays and work you way toward the actual starter itself.

[AtlanticBlue99]

Originally Posted by turp Originally Posted by AtlanticBlue99 the clicking noise is your fuel pump working. it could be a dead cell or bad battery despite what it tested at. my car has tested for 13v battery charge off and 12.4v battery on and had 3 dead cells which in turn killed the alternator and i needed to replace both. you say your lights work when the battery is disconnected? Each cell in the battery carries 2.1 volts. if it had a dead cell the voltage would be 10.5 and so-on. If you batt. has a full charge I would look toward the starter. Start with the fuses/ relays and work you way toward the actual starter itself.

what i am getting at is the volt readers are sometimes flawwed at the autoparts stores.

but fuel pump works, so it is something electrical either with the starter itself (if you can't hear it either) or with the battery to get a charge to the starter. with a good battery, it will start, but with a bad alternator, it wont run long

[turp]

Originally Posted by AtlanticBlue99 what i am getting at is the volt readers are sometimes flawwed at the autoparts stores.

How so? Volts are volts. All meters test the voltage on the circuit by peforming a small drop test across the cell. Even if you have a cheap analog meter it will still read right. Meters read the potential for voltage at the positive terminal(12.6V) and the potential for voltage at the negative terminal (0 volts) and the difference between the two is your voltage reading. (12.6 Volts) Amperage is a completely different story.

[AtlanticBlue99]

Originally Posted by turp Originally Posted by AtlanticBlue99 what i am getting at is the volt readers are sometimes flawwed at the autoparts stores. How so? Volts are volts. All meters test the voltage on the circuit by peforming a small drop test across the cell. Even if you have a cheap analog meter it will still read right. Meters read the potential for voltage at the positive terminal(12.6V) and the potential for voltage at the negative terminal (0 volts) and the difference between the two is your voltage reading. (12.6 Volts) Amperage is a completely different story.

at the autoparts stores... they will tell you what they want to hear. whether it is, "buy our new premium battery for 129" or "your battery is fine" while your car sits dead in the parking lot awaiting a tow to a reliable shop for a new battery and alternator. speaking from experience.

[turp]

Originally Posted by AtlanticBlue99 Originally Posted by turp Originally Posted by AtlanticBlue99 what i am getting at is the volt readers are sometimes flawwed at the autoparts stores. How so? Volts are volts. All meters test the voltage on the circuit by peforming a small drop test across the cell. Even if you have a cheap analog meter it will still read right. Meters read the potential for voltage at the positive terminal(12.6V) and the potential for voltage at the negative terminal (0 volts) and the difference between the two is your voltage reading. (12.6 Volts) Amperage is a completely different story. at the autoparts stores... they will tell you what they want to hear. whether it is, "buy our new premium battery for 129" or "your battery is fine" while your car sits dead in the parking lot awaiting a tow to a reliable shop for a new battery and alternator. speaking from experience.

Nevertheless the meter will still read the same even if the salesman is crooked. The integrity of the meter was what was in question I think.

[AtlanticBlue99]

Originally Posted by turp Originally Posted by AtlanticBlue99 Originally Posted by turp Originally Posted by AtlanticBlue99 what i am getting at is the volt readers are sometimes flawwed at the autoparts stores. How so? Volts are volts. All meters test the voltage on the circuit by peforming a small drop test across the cell. Even if you have a cheap analog meter it will still read right. Meters read the potential for voltage at the positive terminal(12.6V) and the potential for voltage at the negative terminal (0 volts) and the difference between the two is your voltage reading. (12.6 Volts) Amperage is a completely different story. at the autoparts stores... they will tell you what they want to hear. whether it is, "buy our new premium battery for 129" or "your battery is fine" while your car sits dead in the parking lot awaiting a tow to a reliable shop for a new battery and alternator. speaking from experience. Nevertheless the meter will still read the same even if the salesman is crooked. The integrity of the meter was what was in question I think.

exactly, it is arguing with the salesman to show you the reading when they refuse that is the issue. if you have your own tools, you can find out for sure what the problem is.