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#501 |
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Banned
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obdnanr here are the specs and what needs to be done
you can only buy 4 pistons, cant buy just 1 all the pistons must be weighed again then assembled back on the piston they use spiral lox to get on that what i did was stretch til it stood about 1in or less then sorta twist and work them in the dish on the piston MUST match and face the exact way as you see i installed with the same pattern as the head if not there's been wasted time the main studs ARE reusable. torque to 80-85ft lbs lubricate the threads with oil. where the windage tray/girdle goes there MUST be 3 washers between the main and tray/girdle. IF there is less your connecting rod bolts will hit the tray and you'll have issues he should torque all in sequence. 20ft lbs, 40ft lbs 60 then 80-85. the bearings should still be good as well as the piston rings connect rod is 64ft lbs torque spec and of course a good tech will know the rod cap must go EXACTLY as it came off. same side the the oil pickup just tell him to look at how i have it set up now. i cant remember how many washers i used. oil pickup tube is stock torque specs then the oil pan and timing cover is also stock torque. no reason the timing cover should be off though then the head, of course brand new ford head gaskets. not felpro bullshit FORD! those studs are also re-useable HE MUST CHECK PITCH/THREADS on all the studs, main studs and head studs! w/e is not looking good REPLACE with ARP of course. so head gasket on both surfaces DRY making sure the proper gasket is on each side torque specs on the head nuts- 30ft lbs, 60ft lbs then i go to 85 then 105ftlbs lube with oil! and torque each one in CORRECT order! the middle stud to the right(back of motor) side first, then the one directly bottom of it. then the left middle(front middle) then the rear nuts top to bottom for all of course then the last in the front same with the other side I'am leaving out basic steps that i assume he must know. cleaning the cylinder walls then wiping with oil cleaning the piston even if its new, cleaning the crank, checking it etc.. thats pretty basic... anyway after the head is lifters with lifter guides in then push rods then rocker arms #1 on compression(this is also basic)with the rocker arm completely lose obviously he needs to push down making sure the rocker to the push rod to the lifter is riding on the cam then screw it down should spin very freely til 0 lash. which once the very ITTY bittiest bit of tightening comes into play STOP. you can rotate the push rod while doing this and feel it. then turn 1/2 a turn and tighten the adjusting nut..then do the same with all cylinders on compression stroke from they're on everything is basic knowledge any tech should know if he needs help from here then he should not be building the motor
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#503 |
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Regular
'95 mustang sixer
*Shrugs*
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Everett, WA
Posts: 214
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The existence of gay animal porn IMO
That shit is ruining the world.
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#504 |
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Regular
1998 Mustang V6 5 spd.
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Discovery Bay, Ca.
Posts: 161
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It sounds as though the throttle stuck open while dyno tuning, which lead to a broken valve spring which allowed the keepers to come loose & the valve to drop into the #1 cylinder & mate with the piston!
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#505 |
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Regular
2004 Mustang V6 Vert.
328/419 @ 4000 rpms
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 476
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yea i think moondoogie is right, the valve spring collapsed when he over reved the motor, or so it looks.
Alot of money wasted on something that could have been avoided, oh well. gotta live and learn! |
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#506 | |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
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but anyways, this sucks man, i was really amazed at the work. good luck fixing it |
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#507 |
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RLY SRS
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So did he not upgrade valve springs?
Mainly talking to Chris... |
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#508 |
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[8MINUS2]
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I thought they were 915s? But I'm not sure I asked chris he didn't know what springs it was.
The car didn't brake on the dyno.
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#509 |
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RLY SRS
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It broke on the way home from what I read...
I read the whole thread its just alot of thread to read... |
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#510 |
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Regular
2004 Mustang V6 Vert.
328/419 @ 4000 rpms
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 476
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It Broke on the way to Washington. after he took it to south carloina and other random places from what chris has told me. the SPrings come with the heads that Mik from RPM-Mustangs sell, they are upgraded . . . the ones that i have on my CNC heads from Mik are : Springs rated at 130# seat, .580" Lift Capable, stock 1.86"/1.46" valves with valve job .so his should be somethign like that, our motors are almost exactly the same minus mines turbo and his is s/c
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#511 |
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Banned
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no didnt break on the dyno and these springs were rated to a .600 lift
it was either over reving or possible a lifter MAY have gotten stuck
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#512 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
Join Date: Feb 2007
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I wondered what you planned to do about the right head? It looks repairable. There is some dinging up in the #1 combustion chamber area, but I would think that could be fixed by welding and grinding. The valve seats, guides, and valves could then be replaced on that cylinder along with a new spring.
Then just replace the #1 piston and check the rod for bending/twisting and you should be good. |
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#513 |
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MM's Mad Scientist
Slow Fella
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Tupelo, MS
Posts: 5,120
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Chris, what is being done to remedy this situation?
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#514 |
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[8MINUS2]
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^^ My guess would be obanar(sp?) is buying 4 new pistons, a new head, new spring, push rods, and having them installed somewhere?
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![]() Hi, You can call me Kyle |
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#515 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
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fuckin a that sucks....
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![]() 94v6.CAI,Exhaust,3:73s-needs rear end rebuild 02GT/Saleen.built motor,62mm turbo 412hp/446tq @10psi,stock TB and intake |
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#516 |
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Banned
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he's going to have to buy either 4 or 6pistons which ever he wants
have them weighed then a new CNC head I dont think that head is repairable if so it wouldnt be worth the trouble the new head will come with new valves and valve springs then the push rod will have to be replaced i would personally replace the lifter as well that the push rod got bent in im still talking about prices to get it down some but its not to cheap
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#517 |
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Regular
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Updates? UPDATES?!?!?!?
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2006 Grand Prix GXP |
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#518 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2003 v6
340/373 - yay for belts
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: around
Posts: 1,766
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uhh i guess im buying 6 fucking pistons? when i get money.... kinda broke as fuck at the moment until my travel pay comes in, like another month or some shit. but uhh yeah, stang is fucked for a good bit. but i went an bought a beater so i can get the fuck around, besides its suppose to rain every day here in washington so i dont want to be driving the stang in that shit
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#519 | |
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[8MINUS2]
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Another procharger car fails! (j/k)
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#520 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2003 v6
340/373 - yay for belts
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: around
Posts: 1,766
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LinkBacks (?)
LinkBack to this Thread: http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/v6-mustangs/57078-brandons-4-2l-v6-motor-build.html
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| Posted By | For | Type | Date | |
| Brandons 4.2L V6 Motor Build - Page 22 | This thread | Refback | June 27th, 2008 03:47 PM | |
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