Brandons 4.2L V6 Motor Build - Page 26
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Old July 11th, 2008, 01:35 AM   #501
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obdnanr here are the specs and what needs to be done
you can only buy 4 pistons, cant buy just 1
all the pistons must be weighed again then assembled back on the piston
they use spiral lox to get on that what i did was stretch til it stood about 1in or less then sorta twist and work them in
the dish on the piston MUST match and face the exact way as you see i installed with the same pattern as the head
if not there's been wasted time

the main studs ARE reusable. torque to 80-85ft lbs lubricate the threads with oil. where the windage tray/girdle goes there MUST be 3 washers between the main and tray/girdle. IF there is less your connecting rod bolts will hit the tray and you'll have issues

he should torque all in sequence. 20ft lbs, 40ft lbs 60 then 80-85.

the bearings should still be good as well as the piston rings

connect rod is 64ft lbs torque spec and of course a good tech will know the rod cap must go EXACTLY as it came off. same side

the the oil pickup just tell him to look at how i have it set up now. i cant remember how many washers i used.
oil pickup tube is stock torque specs
then the oil pan and timing cover is also stock torque. no reason the timing cover should be off though

then the head, of course brand new ford head gaskets. not felpro bullshit FORD!
those studs are also re-useable HE MUST CHECK PITCH/THREADS on all the studs, main studs and head studs! w/e is not looking good REPLACE with ARP of course.

so head gasket on both surfaces DRY making sure the proper gasket is on each side

torque specs on the head nuts- 30ft lbs, 60ft lbs then i go to 85 then 105ftlbs
lube with oil!
and torque each one in CORRECT order! the middle stud to the right(back of motor) side first, then the one directly bottom of it. then the left middle(front middle) then the rear nuts top to bottom for all of course then the last in the front

same with the other side

I'am leaving out basic steps that i assume he must know. cleaning the cylinder walls then wiping with oil cleaning the piston even if its new, cleaning the crank, checking it etc.. thats pretty basic...

anyway after the head is lifters with lifter guides in
then push rods
then rocker arms
#1 on compression(this is also basic)with the rocker arm completely lose obviously he needs to push down making sure the rocker to the push rod to the lifter is riding on the cam then screw it down should spin very freely til 0 lash. which once the very ITTY bittiest bit of tightening comes into play STOP. you can rotate the push rod while doing this and feel it. then turn 1/2 a turn and tighten the adjusting nut..then do the same with all cylinders on compression stroke

from they're on everything is basic knowledge any tech should know
if he needs help from here then he should not be building the motor
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Old July 11th, 2008, 06:59 PM   #502
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So what exactly caused the failure here?

Part or what?
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Old July 11th, 2008, 07:43 PM   #503
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The existence of gay animal porn IMO

That shit is ruining the world.
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Old July 11th, 2008, 07:44 PM   #504
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Originally Posted by ChrisJ View Post
So what exactly caused the failure here?

Part or what?
It sounds as though the throttle stuck open while dyno tuning, which lead to a broken valve spring which allowed the keepers to come loose & the valve to drop into the #1 cylinder & mate with the piston!
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Old July 11th, 2008, 07:46 PM   #505
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yea i think moondoogie is right, the valve spring collapsed when he over reved the motor, or so it looks.

Alot of money wasted on something that could have been avoided, oh well. gotta live and learn!
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Old July 11th, 2008, 08:02 PM   #506
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Originally Posted by El33tist View Post
because i've come to the realization that it just doesn't make any sense to pour money into my sixxer when I can start out with something that is already almost everything I want.
The sixxer is getting boltons and MAYBE a 75 shot. It's purpose is as a daily driver and eventually a show car.
I'm going to finance myself a termi becaust, imo, it's the sexiest mustang made so far. That one is DEFINITELY going to be a show car. I won't go beyond bolt-ons on that one either, but with the way the termi responds to mods, bolt ons will be enough for me.
i hate when people call a car sexy, especially one as badass as a cobra.

but anyways, this sucks man, i was really amazed at the work. good luck fixing it
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Old July 11th, 2008, 09:13 PM   #507
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So did he not upgrade valve springs?

Mainly talking to Chris...
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Old July 11th, 2008, 09:27 PM   #508
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Originally Posted by ChrisJ View Post
So did he not upgrade valve springs?

Mainly talking to Chris...
I thought they were 915s? But I'm not sure I asked chris he didn't know what springs it was.

The car didn't brake on the dyno.
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Old July 11th, 2008, 09:28 PM   #509
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It broke on the way home from what I read...

I read the whole thread its just alot of thread to read...
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Old July 11th, 2008, 09:37 PM   #510
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Originally Posted by ChrisJ View Post
It broke on the way home from what I read...

I read the whole thread its just alot of thread to read...
It Broke on the way to Washington. after he took it to south carloina and other random places from what chris has told me. the SPrings come with the heads that Mik from RPM-Mustangs sell, they are upgraded . . . the ones that i have on my CNC heads from Mik are : Springs rated at 130# seat, .580" Lift Capable, stock 1.86"/1.46" valves with valve job .so his should be somethign like that, our motors are almost exactly the same minus mines turbo and his is s/c
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Old July 11th, 2008, 10:55 PM   #511
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no didnt break on the dyno and these springs were rated to a .600 lift
it was either over reving or possible a lifter MAY have gotten stuck
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Old July 12th, 2008, 12:30 PM   #512
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I wondered what you planned to do about the right head? It looks repairable. There is some dinging up in the #1 combustion chamber area, but I would think that could be fixed by welding and grinding. The valve seats, guides, and valves could then be replaced on that cylinder along with a new spring.

Then just replace the #1 piston and check the rod for bending/twisting and you should be good.
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Old July 12th, 2008, 12:47 PM   #513
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Chris, what is being done to remedy this situation?
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Old July 12th, 2008, 12:49 PM   #514
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^^ My guess would be obanar(sp?) is buying 4 new pistons, a new head, new spring, push rods, and having them installed somewhere?
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Old July 12th, 2008, 01:20 PM   #515
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fuckin a that sucks....
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Old July 12th, 2008, 02:19 PM   #516
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he's going to have to buy either 4 or 6pistons which ever he wants
have them weighed
then a new CNC head
I dont think that head is repairable if so it wouldnt be worth the trouble
the new head will come with new valves and valve springs
then the push rod will have to be replaced
i would personally replace the lifter as well that the push rod got bent in

im still talking about prices to get it down some but its not to cheap
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Old July 17th, 2008, 06:14 PM   #517
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Updates? UPDATES?!?!?!?
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Old July 25th, 2008, 07:30 PM   #518
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uhh i guess im buying 6 fucking pistons? when i get money.... kinda broke as fuck at the moment until my travel pay comes in, like another month or some shit. but uhh yeah, stang is fucked for a good bit. but i went an bought a beater so i can get the fuck around, besides its suppose to rain every day here in washington so i dont want to be driving the stang in that shit
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Old July 25th, 2008, 07:39 PM   #519
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Originally Posted by obdnanr View Post
uhh i guess im buying 6 fucking pistons? when i get money.... kinda broke as fuck at the moment until my travel pay comes in, like another month or some shit. but uhh yeah, stang is fucked for a good bit. but i went an bought a beater so i can get the fuck around, besides its suppose to rain every day here in washington so i dont want to be driving the stang in that shit
Sucks!
Another procharger car fails!
(j/k)
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Old July 25th, 2008, 08:02 PM   #520
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Originally Posted by SSStang View Post
Sucks!
Another supercharger car fails!
(j/k)
fixed
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