squeaking rear wheel

stang300a · April 21st, 2008, 08:46 PM

ok so for a week my rear driver wheel has been squeaking when i drive and it started getting louder and louder, but when i barely touch the brakes it stops and when i release the brake it starts again. so i figured it was the brakes. i took the wheel off, pads off, sprayed everything with brake cleaner and put it back together and its still doing it. im about to kill myself cuz its so annoying. how do i fix this????

stang300a · April 21st, 2008, 08:49 PM

oh yea forgot to mention the brakes rotors and calipers are all brand new and only two months old. no i didnt install them a shop did.

atlacatl213 · April 21st, 2008, 09:13 PM

hmm my best guess is probably that you've assembled it too tightly. That and sometimes the brand of the pads used aren't that great. I'm not too sure about it though it sounds unusual to me.

WLJohnson05 · April 21st, 2008, 09:30 PM

mines like that too but i think its the front driver side tho...

moond0ggie · April 21st, 2008, 09:34 PM

They're supposed to put the anti squeak goo on the back side of the pads where they make contact with the caliper & piston.

WLJohnson05 · April 21st, 2008, 09:35 PM

Originally Posted by moond0ggie

They're supposed to put the anti squeak goo on the back side of the pads where they make contact with the caliper.

he said they did. and i did that with mine when i did it too...

moond0ggie · April 21st, 2008, 09:40 PM

The caliper should have some light grease on the two pins it floats on also.

WLJohnson05 · April 21st, 2008, 09:41 PM

Originally Posted by moond0ggie

The caliper should have some light grease on the two pins it floats on also.

greased pins also...

04mustang232 · April 21st, 2008, 09:52 PM

walk beside it as someone drives and see if you can pinpoint the location

stang300a · April 21st, 2008, 10:17 PM

what ima do this weekend is jack up the rear end and spins the wheels and see where the noise is coming from and then take the wheel off and spin and then the pads off and spin it and that way ill pin point what it is. i just want to fix this before i get the gears and t lock installed.

stang300a · April 21st, 2008, 10:18 PM

any other suggestions and yes i checked and there was grease on contact points and anti seize on bolts for caliper.

WLJohnson05 · April 21st, 2008, 10:28 PM

Originally Posted by stang300a

any other suggestions and yes i checked and there was grease on contact points and anti seize on bolts for caliper.

definitely lemme know if u figure this out cuz i have no clue either

stang300a · April 21st, 2008, 11:43 PM

yea ill def post what it is if i figure it out, but ill tell u right now ima figure it out cuz everytime i drive the car i get frustrated b/c of that noise and then get in a pissy mood all day. i just need to wait for this weekend so i can go home and use jack stands to get the rear end up.

WLJohnson05 · April 22nd, 2008, 12:34 AM

Originally Posted by stang300a

yea ill def post what it is if i figure it out, but ill tell u right now ima figure it out cuz everytime i drive the car i get frustrated b/c of that noise and then get in a pissy mood all day. i just need to wait for this weekend so i can go home and use jack stands to get the rear end up.

yea im the same...i drive it and im like fuck this piece of shit why are u doing that...its so random too cuz it didnt do this a while back....but i also noticed my wheel getting pretty hot sometimes like things are gettin extremely hot, idk if that has anything to do with the squeek tho

stang300a · April 22nd, 2008, 01:05 AM

hmmm... i havent noticed my wheel getting hot but ill check tomorrow

shadow5403 · April 22nd, 2008, 08:20 AM

if you had a shop put them on, and they are making noise....and they werent before you took it to the shop.....why not take it back to the shop? You paid for a service that they are responsible for.

97fordsixer · April 22nd, 2008, 09:43 AM

I had this issue and had to replace the cheap rotor i put on with a new one. it had too much runout... any one no how that happens with a new one..let me know

stang300a · April 22nd, 2008, 05:04 PM

ok the thing is that i got in a car accident last december and they had to replace my entire rear end and i had them put the same rotors and pads i had before which are drilled and slotted. well anyways, i know its not b/c of the brand or anything like that cuz i had the other ones on for over a year and they were fine. plus, it didnt start doing it until like 2-3 months after i had been driving it, so if i take it to the shop again they will prob say some bullshit like oh thats normal wear and tear. i never let anyone do work on my car anyways. i do it all my self but b/c it was done through the insurance i didnt have much of a choice.

WLJohnson05 · April 22nd, 2008, 05:08 PM

Originally Posted by stang300a

ok the thing is that i got in a car accident last december and they had to replace my entire rear end and i had them put the same rotors and pads i had before which are drilled and slotted. well anyways, i know its not b/c of the brand or anything like that cuz i had the other ones on for over a year and they were fine. plus, it didnt start doing it until like 2-3 months after i had been driving it, so if i take it to the shop again they will prob say some bullshit like oh thats normal wear and tear. i never let anyone do work on my car anyways. i do it all my self but b/c it was done through the insurance i didnt have much of a choice.

yea i hate taking my car to any shop...it bugs me...i hate it...but see we both have the problem and i did my own and u took urs to a shop...ur rotors are new and mine is the one that was on it, but it looks fine to me...

moond0ggie · April 22nd, 2008, 05:11 PM

If you do a lot of heavy braking, it will overheat the rotor & warp a little out of round.
They may need to be turned-trued.

April 21st, 2008, 08:46 PM	#1
stang300a Regular 2004 Mustang V6 Join Date: Jul 2007 Posts: 230	squeaking rear wheel ok so for a week my rear driver wheel has been squeaking when i drive and it started getting louder and louder, but when i barely touch the brakes it stops and when i release the brake it starts again. so i figured it was the brakes. i took the wheel off, pads off, sprayed everything with brake cleaner and put it back together and its still doing it. im about to kill myself cuz its so annoying. how do i fix this???? __________________ 2004 Mustang 3.9L V6 with K&N intake, Dual Flowmaster Super 40s, Motoblue 42% Pulley, GT rear sway bar, drilled and slotted rotors, SCT tuner, Black FR500's 17 by 10.5 and 17 by 9, 4.10 motive gears and FRPP T-Lock.

April 21st, 2008, 08:49 PM	#2
stang300a Regular 2004 Mustang V6 Join Date: Jul 2007 Posts: 230	oh yea forgot to mention the brakes rotors and calipers are all brand new and only two months old. no i didnt install them a shop did. __________________ 2004 Mustang 3.9L V6 with K&N intake, Dual Flowmaster Super 40s, Motoblue 42% Pulley, GT rear sway bar, drilled and slotted rotors, SCT tuner, Black FR500's 17 by 10.5 and 17 by 9, 4.10 motive gears and FRPP T-Lock.

April 21st, 2008, 09:34 PM	#5
moond0ggie Regular 1998 Mustang V6 5 spd. Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Discovery Bay, Ca. Posts: 159	They're supposed to put the anti squeak goo on the back side of the pads where they make contact with the caliper & piston. __________________

April 21st, 2008, 09:40 PM	#7
moond0ggie Regular 1998 Mustang V6 5 spd. Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Discovery Bay, Ca. Posts: 159	The caliper should have some light grease on the two pins it floats on also. __________________

April 21st, 2008, 09:52 PM	#9
04mustang232 Regular 2004 Mustang V6 14.4@ 96 Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Bridgeville, PA Posts: 392	walk beside it as someone drives and see if you can pinpoint the location __________________ 2004 Mustang V6 Saleen 18s Dual exhaust Windstar Intake Swap 4:10s and T-Loc 75 Wet Shot SCT - XCalibrator III w/ VMP Nitrous/Performance Tune 1996 Dodge Neon 2.0 Highline DD 28 MPG

April 21st, 2008, 09:13 PM	#3
atlacatl213 Regular 2003 Mustang V6 SupaDupaSlow Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: LA, CA Posts: 75	hmm my best guess is probably that you've assembled it too tightly. That and sometimes the brand of the pads used aren't that great. I'm not too sure about it though it sounds unusual to me.

April 21st, 2008, 10:17 PM	#10
stang300a Regular 2004 Mustang V6 Join Date: Jul 2007 Posts: 230	what ima do this weekend is jack up the rear end and spins the wheels and see where the noise is coming from and then take the wheel off and spin and then the pads off and spin it and that way ill pin point what it is. i just want to fix this before i get the gears and t lock installed. __________________ 2004 Mustang 3.9L V6 with K&N intake, Dual Flowmaster Super 40s, Motoblue 42% Pulley, GT rear sway bar, drilled and slotted rotors, SCT tuner, Black FR500's 17 by 10.5 and 17 by 9, 4.10 motive gears and FRPP T-Lock.

April 21st, 2008, 10:18 PM	#11
stang300a Regular 2004 Mustang V6 Join Date: Jul 2007 Posts: 230	any other suggestions and yes i checked and there was grease on contact points and anti seize on bolts for caliper. __________________ 2004 Mustang 3.9L V6 with K&N intake, Dual Flowmaster Super 40s, Motoblue 42% Pulley, GT rear sway bar, drilled and slotted rotors, SCT tuner, Black FR500's 17 by 10.5 and 17 by 9, 4.10 motive gears and FRPP T-Lock.

April 21st, 2008, 11:43 PM	#13
stang300a Regular 2004 Mustang V6 Join Date: Jul 2007 Posts: 230	yea ill def post what it is if i figure it out, but ill tell u right now ima figure it out cuz everytime i drive the car i get frustrated b/c of that noise and then get in a pissy mood all day. i just need to wait for this weekend so i can go home and use jack stands to get the rear end up. __________________ 2004 Mustang 3.9L V6 with K&N intake, Dual Flowmaster Super 40s, Motoblue 42% Pulley, GT rear sway bar, drilled and slotted rotors, SCT tuner, Black FR500's 17 by 10.5 and 17 by 9, 4.10 motive gears and FRPP T-Lock.

April 22nd, 2008, 01:05 AM	#15
stang300a Regular 2004 Mustang V6 Join Date: Jul 2007 Posts: 230	hmmm... i havent noticed my wheel getting hot but ill check tomorrow __________________ 2004 Mustang 3.9L V6 with K&N intake, Dual Flowmaster Super 40s, Motoblue 42% Pulley, GT rear sway bar, drilled and slotted rotors, SCT tuner, Black FR500's 17 by 10.5 and 17 by 9, 4.10 motive gears and FRPP T-Lock.

April 22nd, 2008, 08:20 AM	#16
shadow5403 Hardcore Enthusiast 2000 V6 Mustang Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: PA Posts: 2,039	if you had a shop put them on, and they are making noise....and they werent before you took it to the shop.....why not take it back to the shop? You paid for a service that they are responsible for. __________________ http://www.angelfire.com/pro2/shadowx/mustang_pics

April 22nd, 2008, 09:43 AM	#17
97fordsixer Regular 97 sixer n/a Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: iowa Posts: 104	I had this issue and had to replace the cheap rotor i put on with a new one. it had too much runout... any one no how that happens with a new one..let me know

April 22nd, 2008, 05:04 PM	#18
stang300a Regular 2004 Mustang V6 Join Date: Jul 2007 Posts: 230	ok the thing is that i got in a car accident last december and they had to replace my entire rear end and i had them put the same rotors and pads i had before which are drilled and slotted. well anyways, i know its not b/c of the brand or anything like that cuz i had the other ones on for over a year and they were fine. plus, it didnt start doing it until like 2-3 months after i had been driving it, so if i take it to the shop again they will prob say some bullshit like oh thats normal wear and tear. i never let anyone do work on my car anyways. i do it all my self but b/c it was done through the insurance i didnt have much of a choice. __________________ 2004 Mustang 3.9L V6 with K&N intake, Dual Flowmaster Super 40s, Motoblue 42% Pulley, GT rear sway bar, drilled and slotted rotors, SCT tuner, Black FR500's 17 by 10.5 and 17 by 9, 4.10 motive gears and FRPP T-Lock.

April 22nd, 2008, 05:11 PM	#20
moond0ggie Regular 1998 Mustang V6 5 spd. Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Discovery Bay, Ca. Posts: 159	If you do a lot of heavy braking, it will overheat the rotor & warp a little out of round. They may need to be turned-trued. __________________

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