[nbk55x9c]

If anyone has or knows where I can get a pretty much step by step process of installing a new FordRacing Traction Lok for my 2003 V6 7.5 rear end I'd really appreciate the help. I have my Chilton which is a really nice manual but it doesn't have that particular install.
Thank you very much
email:a99hd88@hotmail.com

[gdcpony]

Where do you live? I would help you out (probably charge a pizza or two for the family) if you're in range. The install is not easy, but not hard. Some ?'s though. Are you keeping the same gear set? Upgrading rear brakes? Do you have a rear rebuilt/install set?
Pull axles. Take out old diff. Match shims to new diff. Swap ring gear to new diff. Place new diff in and check backlash. If that is over shim against, if it is under shim away (referencing the pinion). If good (not likely on the first go) check the pattern. If that's good (actually it usually is if the gears weren't swapped too) put axles back in.
Those are the super simplified cliff's notes. Backlash I like at 8 some like more some like less. I know this doesn't help allot, but when you go to do it let me know and I'll try to be available for ?'s. I would go ahead and swap all bearings and seals you uncover (axle, diff, maybe pinion if you need to change the depth) as you are already in there. It also makes a great opportunity for a Cobra or Mach I brake swap too.

[WLJohnson05]

in other words, if u dont know how to do it already then ya shouldnt attempt it most likely

[dgt_mustang]

get a shop to do it, last thing you want to do is mess something up while your in there and cause yourself alot more problems then the job is worth.

[03_StangGuy]

Its really is a bitch, plus all the tools u need start addin up to a pretty penny. Get some subframes welded in when they do the gears.

[nbk55x9c]

Originally Posted by gdcpony Where do you live? I would help you out (probably charge a pizza or two for the family) if you're in range. The install is not easy, but not hard. Some ?'s though. Are you keeping the same gear set? Upgrading rear brakes? Do you have a rear rebuilt/install set? Pull axles. Take out old diff. Match shims to new diff. Swap ring gear to new diff. Place new diff in and check backlash. If that is over shim against, if it is under shim away (referencing the pinion). If good (not likely on the first go) check the pattern. If that's good (actually it usually is if the gears weren't swapped too) put axles back in. Those are the super simplified cliff's notes. Backlash I like at 8 some like more some like less. I know this doesn't help allot, but when you go to do it let me know and I'll try to be available for ?'s. I would go ahead and swap all bearings and seals you uncover (axle, diff, maybe pinion if you need to change the depth) as you are already in there. It also makes a great opportunity for a Cobra or Mach I brake swap too.

Well.. I'm in Oregon out in the boondies. I use to be a mechanic for my Dad's shop and took trans, rearend, drivetrain classes in College at the time. That was a long time ago. Just never did a traction lok. I've done a lot of stuff on this engine that I've never done before and was very successfull at it. My past cars were older (64 1/2 mustang w/V8) most had the older non- fuel injected. I liked fords better growing up for a couple reasons - like the distributor being up front making it easier to adjust timing, points and all that cool ol school stuff. May have taken me longer than someone that's done it before, but I saved a lot of money. I'm one of those - give me the manual people and I'll get er done type. This is a second car for us so it don't matter if I take longer doing stuff. I hate not having my Dad's shop though. He had everything in there. I'm Disabled too now which isn't making it easier. Getting a pain pump put inside me this month (ouch...) because the surgeons say thay can't help me and all they can do is try and keep me out of pain. Disease, legs swell up and then heart problems, big time nerve damage. I guess you could say I'm on my way out and this is the only thing I have left to play around with and I like doing it. I've had 4 Harley's as well that I worked on. Sold my last one to my brother - sort of like having visiting rights :-). Can't ride it any way. I have to spend most of my time laying with my lower body elevated. So you can see that I'm bored to death and if I can't have a hobby of some sort, then somebody please shoot me. If I don't have all the tools to do this job then I may indeed take it some where if it's going to cost more for the tools than to pay someone $200 to install it. I want to keep this mustang for my son Joshua. Before my accident I was a Tech Manager so I did at least make it to the top of my field before my body went to rats. I'm 50yrs old and I've done a lot of fun stuff in my life though. This is the first V6 OHV I've had but it wasn't doing so good when I bought it and then I slowly started fixing things. Now it's got - Yes, subframe connectors, CAI, Shorty headers, custom 2 1/2" dual exaust, billet alumnum 1.8:1 ratio roller rockers, PI Stall Torque converter, DiabloSport tuner tune that I've modified for added air/fuel ratio, torque modifications, shift firmness (thanks to the 4R70W tranny it has in it) and timing and other stuff I can't think of at the moment - it's the meds messing with my brain. I'd say that the moment after I installed the torque converter and modified the tune and felt all the extra torque at the rear wheels I knew I needed a TractionLok/Posi rear end. Widened the power band too and boy does it shift fast now - whew !!!! I plan on having as much fun as I can before the man upstairs takes me away folks ! "Ladies & gentlemen, this is my life" :-).

[itschristorres8]

the instructions listed on here so far is VERY VERY simiplified. i mean EXTREMELY
i've done this twice and i HATE it. I do not do rear end work on anyones car at all but mine and even then i dread the fact i need to. If your just doing a posi thats not bad.
if your swapping gears you'll need a few other tools

heres a some up of whats needed to be done.
-take off wheels
-take off brakes including disc.
once the disc are off go under the car and start unbolting the diff. cover.
save one last bolt on the top of the cover and get a pan to put under.
you might need a flat head or a pry bar to break the seal on the cover and diff itself.

let the smelly fluid drain
theres a pin that goes through the middle of the stock carrier(the old non-tlok unit)
unbolt it. you'll probably need to take out the diff. main caps on the sides to get that bolt holding the pin through the old open diff.
when you take off the main caps MAKE SURE that you remember which side goes where and how the cap is facing. its VERY important it goes on EXACTLY how it came off.

take off caps
take out the bolt then the pin.
onces that pin is out go to 1 side of your rear end and push the axle in
then go back under the car and with a magnet pull the C clip off the axle
do the same with the other side

you can now pull out both axles
also remember where the c clips and axles go.


now you can pull out the old diff
use a pry bar to get it out. its going to be a little hard due to bearing preload and how stiff it needs to be

with the diff out take off the ring gear
now with the new t-lok use thread locker(locktite) on the ring gear bolts and tighten to specs. i dont remember the specs off hand

heres the fun part. you'll need to place the diff in with the shims and the correct amount on each side hoping your backlash is somewhat close to correct
it should be pretty hard and tight to get in there. if it slips in take it out and put more shims, you will NEED a shim kit
if it just slips in your bearings will fail prematurely due to incorrect bearing preload.
once you've gone through hell with that and your back lash is correct

go ahead and torque down your main caps using locktite on those bolts as well AND putting it back just as you took it out
tighten to specs

push the axles in
put on C-clips
put w.e pin or contraption they have for keeping space between both axles in the middle of the diff
then put some RTV on the housing.
bolt on the cover i think its like 12ft lbs
then refill with the CORRECT fluid and posi-fluid
then thats it
re-install the disc and brakes and wheels

[nbk55x9c]

Originally Posted by itschristorres8 the instructions listed on here so far is VERY VERY simiplified. i mean EXTREMELY i've done this twice and i HATE it. I do not do rear end work on anyones car at all but mine and even then i dread the fact i need to. If your just doing a posi thats not bad. if your swapping gears you'll need a few other tools heres a some up of whats needed to be done. -take off wheels -take off brakes including disc. once the disc are off go under the car and start unbolting the diff. cover. save one last bolt on the top of the cover and get a pan to put under. you might need a flat head or a pry bar to break the seal on the cover and diff itself. let the smelly fluid drain theres a pin that goes through the middle of the stock carrier(the old non-tlok unit) unbolt it. you'll probably need to take out the diff. main caps on the sides to get that bolt holding the pin through the old open diff. when you take off the main caps MAKE SURE that you remember which side goes where and how the cap is facing. its VERY important it goes on EXACTLY how it came off. take off caps take out the bolt then the pin. onces that pin is out go to 1 side of your rear end and push the axle in then go back under the car and with a magnet pull the C clip off the axle do the same with the other side you can now pull out both axles also remember where the c clips and axles go. now you can pull out the old diff use a pry bar to get it out. its going to be a little hard due to bearing preload and how stiff it needs to be with the diff out take off the ring gear now with the new t-lok use thread locker(locktite) on the ring gear bolts and tighten to specs. i dont remember the specs off hand heres the fun part. you'll need to place the diff in with the shims and the correct amount on each side hoping your backlash is somewhat close to correct it should be pretty hard and tight to get in there. if it slips in take it out and put more shims, you will NEED a shim kit if it just slips in your bearings will fail prematurely due to incorrect bearing preload. once you've gone through hell with that and your back lash is correct go ahead and torque down your main caps using locktite on those bolts as well AND putting it back just as you took it out tighten to specs push the axles in put on C-clips put w.e pin or contraption they have for keeping space between both axles in the middle of the diff then put some RTV on the housing. bolt on the cover i think its like 12ft lbs then refill with the CORRECT fluid and posi-fluid then thats it re-install the disc and brakes and wheels

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Ah Ha ! I knew there would be someone out there that knew what I was looking for. Thank you Mr. itschristorres8 ! That was just enough to ring some bells from yesterday gone by and I think I can get the torque settings for all the different bolts from my Chilton Manual. I've already bought some Synthetic gear lube and friction modifier etc... I'll need to fetch some shims from some place but it looks like I'm good to go. Thanks again, Almighty Moddedmustangs friend ! You're very cool for taking the time out and helping me with this task!

[gdcpony]

Originally Posted by itschristorres8 the instructions listed on here so far is VERY VERY simiplified. i mean EXTREMELY i've done this twice and i HATE it. I do not do rear end work on anyones car at all but mine and even then i dread the fact i need to. If your just doing a posi thats not bad.

I was aiming for simple to be honest. You had a bit more time than I did I guess. I really do think people are more afraid than they need to be of the "mysterious" rear axle, but I also remember my own first one whining at me to redo it too! LOL! I think it is a chore to be respected, but anyone who can redo an engine can EASILY tackle this. I also believe you'll never learn until you try. Just my two cents on it.
I've done more rears than I like too, mostly for friends. Generally it is a good five hours in my garage. Most times it's bearings which is why I like to see all of them changed if someone is pulling the diff/pinion out. Otherwise it's like rebuilding a motor with the old rod bearings. nothing good comes of it. Unfortunately, I tend to get the ones that have been ignored or abused. In fact, could someone explain how this was driven to me (see pic)? It was the worst I've seen still be driven (sort of) And he thought I'd get it done before I went to work!!! He got REAL lucky that the first set of shims went right every where! That was a first for me.
It's funny that these people are never around when I need a hand. Maybe I need to start being "busy with the kids" more.

[moond0ggie]

Best of luck friend, hope all goes well for you!
As long as you can still work on your hobbies & such, you should
still have some more life in you!
Post back your results.

[moond0ggie]

Originally Posted by gdcpony It's funny that these people are never around when I need a hand. Maybe I need to start being "busy with the kids" more.

ha ha, I hear that!
They would probably just get in your way though!

[itschristorres8]

Originally Posted by gdcpony I was aiming for simple to be honest. You had a bit more time than I did I guess. I really do think people are more afraid than they need to be of the "mysterious" rear axle, but I also remember my own first one whining at me to redo it too! LOL! I think it is a chore to be respected, but anyone who can redo an engine can EASILY tackle this. I also believe you'll never learn until you try. Just my two cents on it. I've done more rears than I like too, mostly for friends. Generally it is a good five hours in my garage. Most times it's bearings which is why I like to see all of them changed if someone is pulling the diff/pinion out. Otherwise it's like rebuilding a motor with the old rod bearings. nothing good comes of it. Unfortunately, I tend to get the ones that have been ignored or abused. In fact, could someone explain how this was driven to me (see pic)? It was the worst I've seen still be driven (sort of) And he thought I'd get it done before I went to work!!! He got REAL lucky that the first set of shims went right every where! That was a first for me. It's funny that these people are never around when I need a hand. Maybe I need to start being "busy with the kids" more.

oh lol i know that i wasnt trying to bash you. even with my instructions if the person isnt some what mechanically inclined i really wouldnt mess with it. plus he'll need something to measure back lash. i got extremely lucky on my car when installing my tru-trac and hit 9. according to ALLDATA .008-015 is acceptable for backlash.

and yes ALWAYS replace the bearings and races when doing the install, my bearings had only maybe 3,000 miles since the last time i changed it, but i changed it anyway
also because i new the t-lok was broke to hell and metal would be in there

but yeah i'd say it takes a good 3-6hours. if its your first time expect easily 5+hours

I did my tru-trac in 4hours but got lucky as i mentioned

[gdcpony]

Originally Posted by itschristorres8 oh lol i know that i wasnt trying to bash you. even with my instructions if the person isnt some what mechanically inclined i really wouldnt mess with it. plus he'll need something to measure back lash. i got extremely lucky on my car when installing my tru-trac and hit 9. according to ALLDATA .008-015 is acceptable for backlash. and yes ALWAYS replace the bearings and races when doing the install, my bearings had only maybe 3,000 miles since the last time i changed it, but i changed it anyway also because i new the t-lok was broke to hell and metal would be in there but yeah i'd say it takes a good 3-6hours. if its your first time expect easily 5+hours I did my tru-trac in 4hours but got lucky as i mentioned

I didn't want you to think I was out to make it sound easy. Since he posted his experience though, I think this is well within his reach. Glad of that, I did feel a little guilty for the summary after reading yours. LOL.

[gdcpony]

Originally Posted by moond0ggie ha ha, I hear that! They would probably just get in your way though!

Nah, I could always use a tool b!+ch. Besides, I get a free meal for the family out of it when I do work for them. Feeding us takes a couple party pizzas!

[nbk55x9c]

Originally Posted by gdcpony Nah, I could always use a tool b!+ch. Besides, I get a free meal for the family out of it when I do work for them. Feeding us takes a couple party pizzas!

You all are a kick in the bumper (), I think I finally found the best forum. Thanks to all for your input. I was born Mechanically inclined with a analytical brain. I scored high on my first mechanical aptitude test for the Army when I was a teen. I've been a mechanic, a building maint tech, an electrician, and a Computer/Network engineer. I'm 50 and Disabled as a Tech Manager. I hope the pain pump they put in me next week will allow me to return to work but they told me not to get my hopes up - how's that for a positive attitude coming from your Dr's assistant - ding dongs !