[via sin dios]

does anyone have a link to very detailed instructions on how to take apart a 04 3.8. Im getting the super6 power pack with upper intake. lower intake, heads and cam. Im working with my dad on this but he worked on little euro cars and this is slightly different to him. any help woud be appreciated

[Onemanzu]

... getta chilton... or hanes... theyll save your life

[itschristorres8]

well if your getting it from super six motor sports .....they have install intructions on the page...and therelike the only place i kno of selling a stage 3power pak kit...so either you havent read the page or looked at it

[itschristorres8]

here it is though if you must
have fun with the 100hp!




Now that you have your new heads, ported intakes, and cam, you’re ready to get it installed and running. Perhaps
you’ve decided to do it yourself rather than hiring it out. If you intend to do this yourself, first make sure
you have a few extra hands lined up to help. It’s a big job, but its not really difficult. Plan on 24 or more hours
to get it done, working methodically the entire time.
Some preliminaries first.
Here’s what you‘ll need:
Head gaskets, Fel-Pro 9642PT-1, order (2). This is actually the 3.8L SuperCoupe head gasket, perforated steel
core with graphite facings and preflattened steel ring in the fire ring.
Intake gasket set, Fel-Pro MS94045, includes (2) lower-to-head gaskets, (2) cork end seals, the upper-to-lower
gasket, a small tube of black sealant.
Thermostat and thermostat gasket
Timing cover gasket set, includes water pump, housing, timing cover, oil pump, front main seal
Head bolts, Fel-Pro ES72156, order (2) sets
Header gaskets, Ford, order 2
Assembly lube, ARP 100-9903, or equivalent
Thread sealer, ARP 100-9904, or equivalent
Black sealant, Permatex UltraBlack hi-temp gasket maker
Anti-seize, VersaChem type 13 or equivalent, Red Locktite
Standard and metric sockets and deep wells including 3/8” and 1/2 drive, universals
Standard and metric open/box ends
Common head screwdrivers of various sizes
Torx bit set
Snap-lok set
Rubber handled hammer or rubber mallet
Pry bar
Duct tape
Magnetic retriever
Pliers, water pump pliers, needle nose pliers
Dampener puller/installer
Cheater bars of various sizes
Penetrating oil
Torque wrench
5 quarts of 10W30 oil
Oil filter
2 gallons antifreeze/coolant
Spark plugs
Power steering fluid
A healthy supply of rags
Funnel, buckets, empty milk jugs, etc
PlastiKote hi-temp engine enamel if you’re doing any painting
If your engine has high miles, you’d be advised to purchase a new timing chain, hydraulic roller lifters, and
pushrods.
Now, these instructions are not a step-by-step, its just too
much work to attempt to cover in that much detail, you
must pickup a Haynes or Ford service manual for that
purpose. Before the first wrench is turned you must read
the manual and be thoroughly prepared.
OK, you’ve been through the manual and its time to start.
Looking at your engine now, you have a better perspective
of the work involved. So lets get started.
First, disconnect the battery before doing anything else.
Have some zip-lok bags or boxes ready to label and segregate
the various nuts, bolts, studs, etc. This is important because you can not remember where they all go.
Make some sketches to identify the location of the various bolts as your remove them. This will dramatically
improve your reassembly. Also note that penetrating oil is your friend, squirt all the bolts that you’ll be removing
with this stuff giving it a few minutes to penetrate.
Drain the coolant at the coolant petcock. Disconnect the cooling fan and remove
it. Loosen the water pump pulley bolts but do not remove them. Loosen the
crank pulley bolts. Now, you can loosen and remove the big dampener bolt. A
couple of pointers here. On rotating objects such as the pulleys, use two sockets,
opposed 180 degrees apart to simultaneously hold the pulley and loosen the
bolts. On the dampener you’ll need to wedge something between the dampener
and block or between the dampener and floor as leverage to prevent its rotation
during removal. We also left the belt on the engine to aid in loosening the water
pump and crank pulley bolts, but now you can use your ratchet to pull up the
tensioner and remove the belt. Now, remove the water pump pulley and use
your dampener puller to remove the dampener.
Now, disconnect the MAF, air temp sensor, and remove the entire inlet
system from the filter to the throttle body. Cover the throttle body opening
or stuff it with rags. Now, climb into the open space in front of the
engine. Disconnect alternator and remove it. Remove the power steering
pump while still installed in the big bracket. You do not have to remove
the pulley, but you’ll need a universal to get one or two of the
bolts off. Lift the assembly up, disconnect the two hydraulic lines and
be prepared with a catch bucket. You are marking and identifying where
the bolts go, right? Go to the other side and disconnect the coil pak and
remove it all the way to the wires at the plugs. Make sure that the plug
wires are numbered or some way identified. Disconnect the air conditioner
compressor. Remove it from the bracket and hang it from something.
Alternatively, you can have it evacuated and totally remove it to make more room to work. Did you
know that we have an air conditioning eliminator kit that bolts right on to the 3.8?While your at it, it eliminates
the weight of the A/C compressor and hoses and frees up some horsepower too! If you elect to totally remove
the air conditioning system, have it evacuated then use your snap-lok tools to disconnect the lines. Remove the
air conditioning bracket. You can now disconnect the cam position sensor, crank trigger, and oil pressure
sender but do not remove them. Starting to look a little better now. And your confidence is up right?
Speaking of snap-loks, they are the connectors used to hold together pressurized lines like fuel, A/C refrigerant
etc. It takes special tools to disconnect the connectors. Look at the picture,
it shows how to use the tool. Slide it into the connector as shown,
push the tool into the connector to release the internal spring and pull
on the hose. If the proper tool is used it will pull apart.
Lets work on the top now. We have to get the upper intake off. Its
held on by 6 bolts and the big EGR nut. Soak that EGR nut with penetrating
oil. Use a healthy adjustable to break it loose and back it out.
Now, loosen the bolts and prepare to remove the upper intake, but first,
take a good look at all the vacuum routing and make detailed drawings and notes as to where they all go.
You’ll be sorry later on if you don’t. OK, disconnect these vacuum and EGR lines, and disconnect the throttle
position sensor, idle air control, throttle and cruise control cables, and EGR, and carefully lift the upper off.
You’ll notice that the PCV line is attached to the bottom of the lower. Just pull the PCV valve out of the valve
cover and take it and the tube out with the upper. Immediately stuff rags down into the ports in the lower or
duct tape them closed.
Now, lets remove the headers, squirt the bolts/studs and get busy,
don‘t forget the collector nuts, upper HEGO‘s and the lower EGR nut.
Just loosen the lower EGR tube nut and let the EGR tube and the smog
stuff come out with the header. Note the location of bolts vs studs with
respect to installation of the oil dipstick tube on the driver’s side and
the coolant bypass tube on the passenger’s side. Before proceeding,
take a good look at the relationship between the wiring harness, the
coolant bypass tubes, fuel rail etc. Again, this is a place where good
notes and detailed sketches will save much time later. For the most part
the connectors are different, but the injector connectors are not, label
them if you need to. OK, now lets get those coolant bypass tubes off.
Note: No Smoking. Now, use your snap-loks and disconnect the fuel
lines. Some fuel will spill, so get some rags and mop it up. We’ll leave the injectors connected to the fuel rails,
so just remove the fuel rail bolts, wiggle the injector connectors loose, and pull up on the rails. Keep the injectors
out of any dirt. Now, disconnect the coolant temperature and air charge sensors and lay the fuel line up
onto the cowl apron.
Another word of caution, you must keep the engine covered to prevent any foreign objects such as tools, nuts,
etc from falling down into the engine, otherwise, it gets ugly real fast.
Next, remove the valve covers and note the location of bolts vs
studs. Now, remove the upper intake manifold, its just a bunch of
small bolts and studs, note where they go. Gently lift or pry the
lower intake manifold off. Use rags to cover the open valley. Now,
lets remove the valve covers and rocker arms. Label the position of
each rocker arm so they go back exactly where they came. Remove
the pushrods and also label them by cylinder and valve. Now the
heads, but first plug up or tape the exhaust pipes closed. 8 bolts per
head. They are mondo tight. Use a 1/2 inch breaker bar with a
cheater and a hard quick push to break them loose. Remove all 8
and lift the head up. Expect a deluge of coolant that will run down
the outside of the block. Some will run into the bores and the fastener
holes. Get that out of there and oil the bores with WD-40.
Now, onto the timing cover. Before we remove the timing cover, we
must get the cam position sensor out, but it must be removed properly,
if not, you’ll need the Ford cam position sensor alignment tool. To remove
the sensor, use that crank bolt to turn the engine in the clockwise
direction until the #1 cylinder is top dead center on the compression
stroke. What is top dead center? TDC is the point of maximum compression,
that is when the piston is at the very top of the stroke on the
compression stroke. How do you know where that is? Watch the piston
and the lifters. When the piston on the #1 cylinder is at the very
top, you know if it’s the compression stroke because both lifters will
be resting on the base circle of the cam lobes, i.e., all the way down in
their lifter bores. With #1 at TDC, unbolt the cam position sensor
hold down. Make a mark on the sensor where its attached
to the block, and make a matching mark on the block using a
permanent marker. Slide the sensor straight out. Do not turn it,
make another set of alignment marks on it and the drive shaft,
and tape it down with duct tape so it can’t rotate. Make sure
you do this right and you won’t have any timing problems during
reassembly. You can remove the water and oil pumps if
you intend to replace them. If you plan to reuse them, they can
stay attached to the timing cover to simplify the job. Look at
the bolts, its easy to tell which attach the timing cover to the
block and which attach the water pump and oil pump to the
timing cover. OK, lets remove the bolts which attach the timing
cover. Contrary to popular opinion, there is no hidden bolt that
requires removal of the oil pan, but there is a small socket cap screw down under the oil pump that must come
out. Now that is done, but here’s where it gets, well lets say, trying. Trying because you must try to get it (the
timing cover) off without breaking it. It has a couple pry tabs at the top, so get a screwdriver behind there and
gently pry loose. Don’t worry, it seems fruitless but keep at it, but do not pry on any of the gasket surfaces or
they can be damaged. When you give up prying, take your hammer’s rubber handle or rubber mallet and start
tapping on it. Keep at it till it comes loose, it just takes some time. Carefully remove it and set aside. You’ll
also want to remove the studs from the block because you can get a better seal at the oil pan when its reinstalled
if the studs are removed. To remove the studs, just use two jam nuts and back them out. Again, make
drawings as to where they go. Now, lets look at the timing marks on the crank and cam sprockets. These two
marks should be pointing directly at each other, if not, you were not at TDC. Don’t worry, your cam position
sensor marks are still valid, just make sure that during reassembly that you maintain this same pointer relationship
when the cam position sensor is reinstalled, get it, its just a matter of maintaining the relationship between
the cam position sensor’s position and the location of #1 piston when the sensor was removed. All you have
to do is go back to those positions during reassembly.
Install the dampener bolt back into the crank. Now that the timing cover is off, lets see how this thing works.
Turn the crank clockwise as if you are tightening the dampener bolt. You can look into the valley and watch
the cam rotate. At the same time, look at the lifters as they rise in fall. You should see the cam lobe come
around, then the base circle, it will be important later on to be able to recognize the base circle position as the
lobes pass by. Bring everything back to #1 TDC with the timing marks perfectly aligned (pointing directly at
each other).
OK, now lets get the cam out. Remove the lifter hold-downs and the lifters, make sure to identify the lifters so
that the lifters, pushrods, and rocker arms all go back in the same place. To remove the cam, we have to re-
Cam position sensor mark
move the timing chain, and to do that remove the cam gear bolt, the gear, and the big spacer. Now, slide both
the crank pulley and cam gear slowly forward, they come right off. You don’t have to remove the timing chain
tensioner. Look at the manual, it gives a very helpful hint regarding cocking the tensioner spring. Or, you can
just cock the spring manually during reassembly, unless its kind of bound up, then you’ll have to remove it to
cock it. With the timing chain off, remove the cam retainer, it uses a Torx bit. We can remove the cam now.
Pull it straight out, gently, being careful not to nick the bearing races. It will come straight out. The radiator is
far enough away to allow you to lift the cam straight up and out.
Now its time for one of the most demanding jobs, the preparation of the
gasket surfaces. Before anything goes back together, we have to get the
gasket surfaces perfectly clean. To do this use a scraper for the tough
stuff, but be very careful not the nick or gouge the gasket surfaces or you
might have a leak there. Once the tough stuff is off, use a surface conditioning
disc on a drill motor to get a nice non-directional finish on the
gasket surfaces. Do not grind away on the surfaces, just use the conditioning
disc to clean it up good. You can also decarbon the piston
crowns with the surface conditioning disc at this time. Now, wipe the
gasket surfaces with acetone as the final preparation step.
Before we start reassembly we need to transfer some stuff from the old parts to your new stuff. It’s a few
things on the upper intake, like the throttle body, EGR vacuum valve, PCV line with PCV valve attached.
Some stuff on the lower like the coolant bypass fittings and the sensors.
We’re ready to reinstal the cam. Lube the cam lobes and bearing journals
with assembly lube and gently slide it straight in, slowly. Lock it in place
with its retainer. Yes, we’re putting it back in the exactly the opposite order
that it came apart. Reassemble the spacer, timing chain set, and gears. Its all
keyed, so it goes back together only one way. Remember that the key on the
crank shaft identifies how it goes back togther, so just rotate the cam to get
the key aligned with the keyway. You’ll notice that the timing pointers
should line up just they way they were when you removed them if the #1 piston
has not been moved, if it has been moved, line them back up like they
were. We want to reinstal the timing cover and get the cam position sensor
installed to make sure they timing is still accurate. Before we do that, we
have to cock the chain tensioner, remember, or else the chain won’t slide all
the way home. A word about that. The service manual tells you to work the
spring up and pin it into place, then to pry up on the bottom of the slider with a large screw driver, nah, it never
works. The other way is to remove it and put it in a vise. Work the spring up and pin it in place through the
hole. Now, wiggle the slider up with a screw driver. When you get it up, strap the tensioner slipper down with
a zip tie, now its cocked and locked in place. Reinstall it, slide the timing set on, then cut the zip tie. Now the
chain is properly tensioned again, pull the zip tie out. You had to remove the crank bolt to slide the timing gear
on, so put it back now.
Now, lets pre pare to put the timing chain cover, water pump, and oil
pump back on. Double check gasket surface cleanliness and remove
any rags you had stuffed into the open part of the oil pan. First, lets get
a nice bead of the black, hi-temp silicone sealant at the corner intersection
of the oil pan and block. Run the sealant up the block around an
inch and around the lower fastener hole on each side. Run the bead all
the way across the oil pan lip as well. Coat both sides of the timing
cover gasket with sealant and set it in place. Now, we can set the timing
cover in place. With the studs removed, you can get a better seating
of the timing cover down onto the front oil pan lip than you can with
the studs in place. With the timing cover in place, lube the stud and
bolt threads with assembly lube and run them up, then tighten them
down. Don’t forget the little cap screw down there under the oil pump.
Now, take your cam position sensor, unwrap the tape, make sure its
own marks are aligned and that it has not been rotated, and insert it
back into its bore while carefully aligning the cam postion sensor marks
with the one you put on the timing cover. Once inserted, lock it down
with the hold down. If you use this opportunity to do some painting or
polishing of the timing cover, make sure you maintain the cam position
sensor mark.
Lets put the new heads on. Did you compare the ported heads to the old, greasy stockers? Cool huh? You’re
installing the better SuperCoupe gaskets. You must install them with the “FRONT” side facing the front,
don’t worry if it looks upside down, it doesn’t matter as long as the “FRONT” is toward the front. This is important,
get it right, and double check it. Double check cleanliness on the block gasket surfaces too. Set the
head gaskets in place onto the dowels in the block. If they are not there, they will be stuck in the bottom of the
heads you just took off, pull them out and put them back into the block. Do not use any sealant or anything
else on the head gaskets, just place them and sit the new heads gently down in place. Now its fun time, torquing
the heads. Lube the bolt threads and head washers with the assembly lubricant recommended by the
fastener manufacturer. This is done in steps, you must follow the procedure called out in the manual. Take
your time and do it correctly. These torque-to-yield bolts require an additional turn after the final torque is
reached. You’ll need a cheater bar to do it. Once the heads are torqued and the rocker arms set and adjusted, it
goes back together pretty quickly.
Now, its time to set-up the valve train. You can set the lifters back in the bores and secure them with the retainers.
If you washed the lifters, oil them before reinstalling. Apply a dab of assembly lube on the pushrod tips
and place the pushrods back into their respective holes and make sure they go into the retainer and rest in the
center of the lifter. You did put the lifters in with the rollers riding on the cam, right? Now, get the rockers
arms, fulcrums and bolt ready to go back into their same respective positions. Before you bolt any of them
down you need to look at something. The rocker arms and the fulcrums have some angled grooves in them,
make sure when you reinstall them that the grooves match up in the same direction If you observe severe wear
on the mating surfaces, you’ll need to replace them. Also inspect the valve tip as well. Apply a dab of assembly
lube to the valve tip of the rocker arm and the pushrod seat before they are assembled. Starting with cylinder
#1 at TDC, apply assembly lube to the fulcrum bolt and just start it after the assembly is set into the pedestal.
Now, lets get the rockers adjusted. Before we go on, lets say that
adjusting the rockers perfectly is something that you may not get
right the first time. That’s OK, you can always remove the valve
covers and torque them again. Moving on, rotate the pushrod as
you hand tighten the fulcrum. It will be loose, don’t expect it to
tighten up. Once its hand tight, you’ll use your torque wrench to
finish tightening it the rest of the way. You’ll need to see 22-29 lbsft
of torque as you rotate the fastener an additional 1/4 to 1 full turn.
The rocker may still be slightly loose even after its tightened in this
manner. If you must go more than 1 full turn and the torque has
not developed, longer pushrods will be required. Comp Cams part
number 7939-16 are 7.150 “ long and should do the trick, but measure
any lash before hand before ordering. You can install and adjust
both the intake and exhaust valve rocker arms of the #1 cylinder. Once that is done, you’ll rotate the
crankshaft to the next cylinder in firing order sequence, i.e., #4. You must watch the cam lobes go by as they
rotate so that both the intake and exhaust lifters of the #4 cylinder are positioned only on the base circle of the
cam. You must adjust the rockers only when the cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke, i.e., when both
lifters are riding on the base circle of the cam. Once #4 is torqued, on to next cylinder in firing order sequence,
1-4-2-5-3-6, etc until each is complete.
Congratulations, the hard part is done. Lets get the lower intake
back on. Before you get ready to instal it, you must transfer some
stuff from the original over to the new one, things like the throttle
body, EGR valve, coolant temperature sensors and sending unit,
etc. Make sure you use thread sealant or teflon tape where the
coolant temperature stuff is installed to prevent coolant leaks. Before
we go any farther, make sure the gasket surfaces are perfectly
clean and wipe the gasket surfaces with acetone. Match up the
gaskets to the ports to verify the fit, some trimming of the gaskets
may be required. Now make a healthy blob of sealant at the corners
of the front and rear China walls that laps up onto the heads.
Make a narrow bead of sealant around the coolant transfer holes in
the heads. Immediately lightly coat both sides of the lower intake-to-head gaskets with the same black hi-temp
gasket sealer. Set the gaskets in place and align the ports for the best match. Make yet another fine bead of
sealant on the gasket around the coolant transfer holes. Finally make a healthy bead of sealant all the way
across the front and rear China walls starting up on the intake gasket and finishing up on the opposite intake
gasket. This is important. By sandwiching the intake gaskets at the China wall corners in sealant, there is little
chance of leaks occuring there. This is not the time to take a break, you want the sealants curing as one continuous
mass. Note that we have not used the crummy cork China wall gaskets that came with the Fel-Pro kit.
Set the lower intake straight down, look into the ports to verify that it is aligned properly, if not, then shift it
slightly. Lets get it bolted down with the fasteners using the proper thread lubricant, torque, and sequence.
Remember to get the bolts and studs in the right positions. Stuff clean rags into the ports to protect them from
loose objects. You don’t want to disassemble all that again.
Move on to the valve covers. Inspect the seals before you bolt them on. Make sure the bolts and studs go back
into the proper places. If you want them painted, now is the perfect time.
Now to the headers. Get the gaskets in place and tighten the fasteners after they’ve been treated with antiseize.
If the HEGO’s were removed coat their threads with anti-seize and reinstal them prior to installing the
headers. You may find it helpful to start the header collector to flange bolts at the same time just make sure its
all aligned prior to tightening the header bolts down. Make sure you get the bolts and studs in the right place
because some of the studs are used to fasten the coolant bypass on the passenger side and the oil dipstick on
the driver’s side. While we’re here, lets get the oil level dipstick back in place with a little shot of sealant, then
bolt it to the stud on the drivers side header.
We’re rolling now. Its time to get busy with the wiring harness, fuel rails,
coolant bypass, t-stat, t-stat housing, etc. If it seems that all of this stuff is
woven together, its because it is. Lets start with the fuel rails and get them
bolted back down. Now lets run the wiring harness back across the top the
engine. You’ll notice that the connectors only go one way, and, with the exception
of the fuel injectors, are different for each connection. You need to
wind the passenger side under the fuel rail. The injector connectors are laid
out logically so don’t worry if you didn’t label them. Just look at where they
come out from the big bundle and hook them up in that order. Pay particular
attention to how you route the connections to the throttle body, the throttle
body wiring must come out under the fuel rail behind the rear-most fuel rail
hold down on the passenger side. With all wiring and vacuum routing, make sure your routing eliminates rubbing
and chafing and direct contact with sharp edges, headers, EGR lines, etc.
Its time to get the upper on. Like the lower, you have some things like the throttle body, EGR valve, PCV
valve, etc to transfer. Once that’s transferred, the upper goes on with 6 bolts, don’t forget the throttle cable and
cruise control cables, and make sure you hook the throttle return spring up. Reattach the EGR and all vacuum
connections.
Now, instal the front accessory brackets and accessories and make the electrical connections. Move on to the
crank pulley, then the water pump pulley, now wrap the serpentine belt. Use red loctite on the crank pulley
bolts. Reinstall the radiator fan and coolant overflow bottle.
Go around to the passenger side and reconnect the fuel lines and the A/C lines, if you disconnected them, they
just push in and lock in place.
Now, drain the oil, remove and replace the filter, and refill with 5 quarts of oil. Refill the radiator and coolant
system with a 50-50 coolant/antifreeze water mixture. You need to remove the coolant fill vent that is located
in the lower intake as you add coolant, and reinstal it with thread sealant and tighten it before you start the car.
Refill the power steering.
Now, look everything over one last time. Check coolant and oil levels, then hook the battery up and get behind
the wheel. First, just bump the engine over a couple times. If all sounds well, its time to fire that thing up. Its
important to listen carefully to the engine for tapping, knocking, or any other unusual noises. If all went well, it
should start right up and run pretty quietly. If you hear a metallic tapping noise, its probably the rocker arms.
Listen and feel the valve covers to determine which side it may be coming from. You’ll need to pull the valve
covers and tighten the rocker arms some more or install the longer pushrods. Now, with the cam, your car
should pretty quickly develop a lopey idle. Don’t worry if it idles up a little high at first. In a few minutes it
should start to idle down to around 700-800 rpm. You’ll want to drive it kinda easily for a while until everything
is properly run-in again. Pay particular attention to oil pressure and coolant temperature gages. Any unusual
gage activity indicates that some additional attention is required.
You may also notice some white smoke coming from the tailpipes. Its not really smoke, its actually coolant vapor
that’s coming from any spilled coolant that leaked into the exhaust pipes. If that’s what it is, it will stop
after a few minutes.
Lets talk about what you need to do next. You might get a MIL or check engine light after a driving cycle or
two. If so, check them with a scanner, we like the B&B Electronic’s AutoTap the best. Sometimes, an
emisions system or vacuum connection is wrong or the computer has sensed a now lean mixture. This means
more fuel is needed to go along with the new airflow capacity. That’s why we offer Stages 2 and 3. Now, get
out there and pick-up those fuel system mods and the chip to attain maximum performance.

[Onemanzu]

... awh man i hope their are pictures... words are boring... plus im the lego kinda guy... a picture of what goes where and some simple instructions do it for me

[itschristorres8]

the site has pictures

[Onemanzu]

yea : )

[via sin dios]

well I was gonna get the cheaper power pack stage 1. you think if i get that, posi, 4.10's and full bolt ons I can kill a gt. and my other goal is to keep up with a z28. so what do you recomend

[CyberPrey]

Stage 2 at least, if you have a manual, you can go stage 2+.... If yu have an auto and are getting a converter, go stage 2+...

If your going to SC/N20, or your doing a stroker, go stage 3

[itschristorres8]

Originally Posted by via sin dios well I was gonna get the cheaper power pack stage 1. you think if i get that, posi, 4.10's and full bolt ons I can kill a gt. and my other goal is to keep up with a z28. so what do you recomend

a z28! psh look at tmaturbo.com theres a turboed v6 stuggling to beat a z28

if i were you i'd go with a stage 3! why not? 90hp! i dont think they sell stage 1 but stage 3 is 20hp more then stage 2 for like $500 more..totally worth it
with a stage 3 pak alone you should be able to beat GTs with gears and full bolt ons you'll smoke em! the 01 and lower cobras will be your challenge you'll have like 300hp...probably beat those cobras too

[Onemanzu]

yea!!... you know if you do the math thats about $30 per horse power... in my books thats a respectable price

[itschristorres8]

plus you might regret itlater...and thats a costly regret!
spend the money and get the stage 3!

[via sin dios]

for how much do you think i can sell the stock parts that i replaced on ebay perhaps

[Onemanzu]

... maybe $100 depends on how honest you are tho

[itschristorres8]

all of them...idk there stock and used...not much
if i sold them i'd be happy if i got $500 out of it all

[via sin dios]

this is my plan then stage 3 powerpack from ssms, 4.10's and posi+tuner
(my ride-04 3.8 Automatic)

what decent cars(stock) would I be able to beat you think?
(i Cant wait to take this to the strip)

[itschristorres8]

Originally Posted by via sin dios this is my plan then stage 3 powerpack from ssms, 4.10's and posi+tuner (my ride-04 3.8 Automatic) what decent cars(stock) would I be able to beat you think? (i Cant wait to take this to the strip)

stock
any GT(except the ford GT)...idk about cobras...maybe with a bad driver
s2000
SI
probably the 350z
and maybe g35's
240s
rsx-s
idk man theres alot...its like getting 90hp then with gears and t-lok my guess is you'll run high 13's maybe mid ...depending how good a driver you are...you could score mid low 14's but full bolt ons can do that...

and what your doing will have more power then full bolt ons like 50+ more
but with full bolt ons and a power pak you'd be set, you wouldnt need forged internals unless you want blower, turbo or big shot of nitrous.
but full bolt ons power pak and gears will get you at 300hp about with the stage 3

i believe AB has full bolt ons and has lik 220hp..maybbe more...plus 90 and yea around 300 depends what happens

you can go wrong with a stage 3....2,350 for 90hp...thats NOT BAD at all bolt ons will cost that much about and not give you that

[chevy_killer]

Originally Posted by via sin dios this is my plan then stage 3 powerpack from ssms, 4.10's and posi+tuner (my ride-04 3.8 Automatic) what decent cars(stock) would I be able to beat you think? (i Cant wait to take this to the strip)

also think about getting a shift kit...itll get you better shifts instead of sliding into gear youll feel a more positive shift

[CyberPrey]

If you go with a stage 3, you are DEFINITLY going to need an aftermarket torque converter, or your going to idle like crap and/or stall alot.

[tims3.8stang]

ill be doing a stage 3 power pack in about a year when i can get the money together to buy forged internals and a m112 supercharger o and by the way im buying a new motor