Tubular kmember ?'s .....

Avaric3 · August 28th, 2008, 08:50 PM

the QA1 k-member isnt crappy, its just not recommended for autocross or the like. its just fine for a dd and drag tho

stephen · August 29th, 2008, 08:51 AM

Unless you want to change the suspension angles, I'd just go with a used stock cross member. I presume the $500 includes labor to take it out of a car at the wrecking yard. That shouldn't be so hard if you find one with the engine already removed. In fact I think the wrecking yard would usually drop the engine out from the bottom complete with the cross member.

I presume you solved the engine problems?

stephen · August 29th, 2008, 09:22 AM

This might be helpful. It shows in detail how to R&R the cross member.
The advantages of the tubular cross member are increased strength and reduced weight.

AJE Racing Tubular K-Member

stephen · August 29th, 2008, 10:50 AM

If I were going to do this, I would also install the tubular A-arms (lower control arms), since the balljoints and bushings on the originals are likely to be worn.
If you have disassembled suspensions before this would be a good DIY project, since you would save a lot of labor costs.

stephen · August 29th, 2008, 12:13 PM

This is another parts source.

http://bmrfabrication.com/Mustang.htm

stephen · August 29th, 2008, 01:16 PM

One more bit of information. According to this site the crossmember is the same for 3.8L and 4.6L. You might check that with Ford.

New Ford Parts - Genuine OEM Replacement

99v6stang · August 29th, 2008, 04:03 PM

well, that one installation page should be quite helpful. I think i will be going with th PA kmember and may look into the tubular a arms as well, but doesnt that require a coil over setup?

stephen · August 29th, 2008, 08:38 PM

Originally Posted by 99v6stang

well, that one installation page should be quite helpful. I think i will be going with th PA kmember and may look into the tubular a arms as well, but doesnt that require a coil over setup?

The last picture looks like stock springs.

http://www.mustanghowto.com/suspensi...acing/ass1.JPG

stephen · August 30th, 2008, 11:08 AM

From looking at some of these products on the internet yesterday, some of the tubular control arms have a spring seat and some don't. Those without the spring seat would need a coil over shock. There was one type that had a removable spring seat so it could be used either way.

99v6stang · September 1st, 2008, 07:53 PM

well i ordered just the kmember from pa racing, later on maybe ill get some tubular a arms but im out of money for now. I also ordered my jlt intake, ud pulley, and iat sensor for the m112

August 28th, 2008, 08:50 PM	#21
Avaric3 Hardcore Enthusiast 2002 Ford Focus slow as fuck Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: M-Pan, NJ Posts: 2,556 iTrader: 4 reviews	the QA1 k-member isnt crappy, its just not recommended for autocross or the like. its just fine for a dd and drag tho __________________ 99 V6 Mustang-sold 02 Ford Focus-sold 98 Camaro Z/28-lid, catback

August 29th, 2008, 04:03 PM	#27
99v6stang Enthusiast Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 760 iTrader: 0 reviews	well, that one installation page should be quite helpful. I think i will be going with th PA kmember and may look into the tubular a arms as well, but doesnt that require a coil over setup? __________________ My car ---- (m112 in progress)

September 1st, 2008, 07:53 PM	#30
99v6stang Enthusiast Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 760 iTrader: 0 reviews	well i ordered just the kmember from pa racing, later on maybe ill get some tubular a arms but im out of money for now. I also ordered my jlt intake, ud pulley, and iat sensor for the m112 __________________ My car ---- (m112 in progress)

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August 29th, 2008, 08:51 AM	#22
stephen Hardcore Enthusiast Join Date: Feb 2007 Posts: 1,262 iTrader: 0 reviews	Unless you want to change the suspension angles, I'd just go with a used stock cross member. I presume the $500 includes labor to take it out of a car at the wrecking yard. That shouldn't be so hard if you find one with the engine already removed. In fact I think the wrecking yard would usually drop the engine out from the bottom complete with the cross member. I presume you solved the engine problems?

August 29th, 2008, 09:22 AM	#23
stephen Hardcore Enthusiast Join Date: Feb 2007 Posts: 1,262 iTrader: 0 reviews	This might be helpful. It shows in detail how to R&R the cross member. The advantages of the tubular cross member are increased strength and reduced weight. AJE Racing Tubular K-Member

August 29th, 2008, 10:50 AM	#24
stephen Hardcore Enthusiast Join Date: Feb 2007 Posts: 1,262 iTrader: 0 reviews	If I were going to do this, I would also install the tubular A-arms (lower control arms), since the balljoints and bushings on the originals are likely to be worn. If you have disassembled suspensions before this would be a good DIY project, since you would save a lot of labor costs.

August 29th, 2008, 12:13 PM	#25
stephen Hardcore Enthusiast Join Date: Feb 2007 Posts: 1,262 iTrader: 0 reviews	This is another parts source. http://bmrfabrication.com/Mustang.htm

August 29th, 2008, 01:16 PM	#26
stephen Hardcore Enthusiast Join Date: Feb 2007 Posts: 1,262 iTrader: 0 reviews	One more bit of information. According to this site the crossmember is the same for 3.8L and 4.6L. You might check that with Ford. New Ford Parts - Genuine OEM Replacement

August 30th, 2008, 11:08 AM	#29
stephen Hardcore Enthusiast Join Date: Feb 2007 Posts: 1,262 iTrader: 0 reviews	From looking at some of these products on the internet yesterday, some of the tubular control arms have a spring seat and some don't. Those without the spring seat would need a coil over shock. There was one type that had a removable spring seat so it could be used either way.

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