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Discussing What you think is smarter to do... *Engine Question* in the V6 Mustangs Forum. Well me and my fiance are about to split I believe, so I guess I'... Modded Mustangs is the premier Ford Mustang Forum on the internet. We discuss all aspects of the Ford Mustang on the forum. Registered Users do not see the above ads. Please Register - It's Free! |
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#1 |
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Enthusiast
1998 Mustang v6
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Poplar Bluff, Missouri
Posts: 749
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What you think is smarter to do... *Engine Question*Whatta you guys think I should do. I want to build a v6, I'm thinking I can do to a junkyard and pick up a 3.8L for $250. I'm gonna try and get a 01+ block... Would this be a good idea? Get an engine stand, buy a junkyard one, build it, then swap it for my old one? I think it'd save alot of installation fee's in the end, plus I think it would be a better learning experience, somethin to toy with. I was planning on getting the owners manual, and I have friends that told me they could help me with proper lubing and stuff... so good idea right?
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Red '98 Mustang. Custom Dual Exhaust w/ fabbed X pipe. CAI. 17in Black Rims w/ Aluminum Lip. Alpine Head Unit and Type-S speakers in doors and decklid. 600w Bridged BOSS amp to two 12" Audio Bahn Blue Flame Series Subs. |
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#2 |
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Regular
2000 Mustang V6
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Radford, VA
Posts: 101
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#3 |
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Enthusiast
1998 mustang 3.8l v6
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: portsmouth ohio
Posts: 618
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good luck getting a v6 motor for that much. i was going to get a 99+ motor and it was going to be like $600. sounds like a good plan though. good luck. and post pics of progress
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![]() 1998 mustang v6,UD pulleys,msd 8.5 mm wires shorty headers no cats H pipe flowmaster knock offs cold air intake w/ k n filter headlights mirrors 2 10 xplod subs 1000 watt amp |
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#4 |
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Enthusiast
1998 Mustang v6
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Poplar Bluff, Missouri
Posts: 749
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Red '98 Mustang. Custom Dual Exhaust w/ fabbed X pipe. CAI. 17in Black Rims w/ Aluminum Lip. Alpine Head Unit and Type-S speakers in doors and decklid. 600w Bridged BOSS amp to two 12" Audio Bahn Blue Flame Series Subs. |
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#5 |
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Enthusiast
1998 mustang 3.8l v6
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: portsmouth ohio
Posts: 618
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btw that is an amazing deal on those motors. i would try to get one even if you don't split. just as something to do on the side.
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![]() 1998 mustang v6,UD pulleys,msd 8.5 mm wires shorty headers no cats H pipe flowmaster knock offs cold air intake w/ k n filter headlights mirrors 2 10 xplod subs 1000 watt amp |
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#6 |
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Resident MM Ricer
2006 Scion tC
13.9@103/8.9@81
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Raleigh/Lenoir, NC
Posts: 9,388
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![]() Scion Tc-strup racing header, CAI, Ground Kit, NOS 100shot, Custom suspension, Doc. I 50% STS MM 4 Banger club: Senior Ricer "Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races." -Carroll Shelby Thanks To My Sponsors: Strup Performance |
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Doc
91 Sonic Blue Goodness
19.83 @ 12mph
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NJ
Posts: 27,311
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#8 |
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Enthusiast
1998 Mustang v6
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Poplar Bluff, Missouri
Posts: 749
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Alot of people do the stroker kit to 4.2L What if I just go ahead and get a 4.2L and build it... I think that would be smarter, what do you guys think? What is the Pro's and Con's other than it being a little bit heavier... and would it fit right. Also I thought I heard before about a 4.3L, is there a such thing... and if so should I try that one? Thanks guys
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Red '98 Mustang. Custom Dual Exhaust w/ fabbed X pipe. CAI. 17in Black Rims w/ Aluminum Lip. Alpine Head Unit and Type-S speakers in doors and decklid. 600w Bridged BOSS amp to two 12" Audio Bahn Blue Flame Series Subs. |
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#9 |
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Enthusiast
2000 3.8L Mustang
195.9/220.8 hp/tq N/A
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Cleveland MS/Stafford VA
Posts: 628
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Get to Work!!!
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~Nitrous is like a Hot Girl with STD's, you know you wanna hit it, but your afraid of the consequences~
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#10 |
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SP00LIN V6
2000 Mustang V6
unknown @390
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: south florida
Posts: 14,619
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once again if you dnt even just clean the motor right you'll be wasting so much money once that car starts and breaks in. you NEED to be mechanically inclined to build motors. its not a cold air intake.
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![]() 437rwhp and 402rwtq through a V6 on a stock bottom end
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#11 |
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Regular
2000 Mustang V6
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Radford, VA
Posts: 101
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#12 |
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Enthusiast
1998 Mustang v6
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Poplar Bluff, Missouri
Posts: 749
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Chris I'm a pretty smart person overall, I'm not gonna say it wont be a big deal, because I'm sure it will be, but it's something I really want to do someday... I'll be able to handle it. I'm also getting promoted already (been there a month and a half) at my job right now. $2.50 raise. This extra cash (approx $100 more a week) will be going towards getting the stand, then the engine, then the mods. It'll take forever like this, but at least I'll have it started... because I honestly dont see her staying with me. This is about the fourth time me and her have had this go round so yeah. I'm pretty sure it will be over soon, but I just wanna be fair... as if I haven't already.
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Red '98 Mustang. Custom Dual Exhaust w/ fabbed X pipe. CAI. 17in Black Rims w/ Aluminum Lip. Alpine Head Unit and Type-S speakers in doors and decklid. 600w Bridged BOSS amp to two 12" Audio Bahn Blue Flame Series Subs. |
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#13 |
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Regular
2000 Mustang V6
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Radford, VA
Posts: 101
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#14 | |
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Mod Johnson
2004 Mustang V6
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Newport News, VA
Posts: 5,380
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![]() ![]() aint that the damn truth
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TURBO on 7.2psi CHECK OUT MY WEBSITE |
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#15 |
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SP00LIN V6
2000 Mustang V6
unknown @390
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: south florida
Posts: 14,619
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just because you get all new parts doesnt mean it'll all measure out correctly plastiguaging the motor, checking end play, ring gap as well as other measurments to much of any of those will destroy the motor prematurly no offense and im sure you are smart but being smart in general as in book smart has nothing to do and wont help you with motor smart. i dont build motors for people online that need it shipped so its not like im trying to get business, but seeing your previous post from past times and now this is something i would take to a pro plus having a GOOD and WELL calibrated torque wrench is extremely important. i would pay the extra$$$ for a craftsman torque wrench, mac or preferably SNAP ON and knowing torque sequence and the wrench is also equaly as important. like a big mistake people make is this they see a torque sequence of 20, 55, 85-110 they think its safer and smarter to go 20,40,55,70, 95...110 WRONG anything below 70-85 yea is ok if that were the sequence but if you go to 95 or 100, then go in for that final 110 torque...95-100 is TIGHT and hard to move....it might click before that nut even budges then you think 2 things hmm well thats done and ready or hmmm is that right? the answer is its WRONG it takes more momentum to move something so thats not a TRUE 110 torque... thats why going from 95-110 or something short at high torque even low isnt always better at all and if thats a head bolt you could have made a weak spot in the gasket now another thing is when torquing it has to click WHILE the wrench was moving! if you make a 1/4 pull and no click then back it up and go for a pull and hear a click...you think ok its there...its not...its the same thing i said before...that has to be backed up and re-done Im saying this cause I've seen people think they can do something and they think they know they can and something small screwed it up like oil on the top and bottom of a bearing or over lubricating i know your dead set on it but honestly unless you've rebuilt a motor before THIS HAS GOT BAD NEWS written all over it and watching someone rebuild a motor or handing them a wrench doesnt count the first motor i rebuild had someones name carved in the piston...it was a junk motor perfect for practicing on in class i did about 5 before attempting a real motor
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![]() 437rwhp and 402rwtq through a V6 on a stock bottom end
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#16 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 30
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#17 |
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Enthusiast
01 mustang
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: goose creek
Posts: 932
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chris kinda scares me with the kind of stuff you gotta watch out for! but if you watching out for it and following some kind of plan, things should work out, as for the girl....after 2 years my girl did that to me, sounds pretty much the same exact way to, but after me and her got through that time, its never been better, just past 4 years being together 5 days ago, just if or when you two get back together, be like, "some shits gotta change, for starters, I'M GONNA MOD MY FUCKEN CAR IF I WANT CAUSE IM BRINGIN IN THE MONEY!!" or something of a lesser tone than that........
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![]() LEAVE REP POINTS WHERE NEEDED!!! 2001 mustang V6 CAI,Tuner,Cobra Rims To come: UDP, T-lok, 3.73, full exhaust setup W/flowmaster 40s, aluminum driveshaft. |
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#18 |
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Regular
2000 Mustang V6
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Radford, VA
Posts: 101
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#19 | |
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SP00LIN V6
2000 Mustang V6
unknown @390
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: south florida
Posts: 14,619
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usually when you try to do things the cheapest way and save the most $$$ you end up spending more Even one of the big name v6 companys you all know of have made this mistake trying to make and ultra budget combo for themselves ended up spending more then his marketed rotating assemblies...
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![]() 437rwhp and 402rwtq through a V6 on a stock bottom end
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#20 |
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Enthusiast
1998 Mustang v6
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Poplar Bluff, Missouri
Posts: 749
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Chris what would in your opinion be the best thing for me to do... building my own engine has been like a shattered dream of mine since I've moved out, but now that I'm advancing so fast at my new job it's piecing back together, without me and my gf splitting up even. How could I learn to do it safely, I do see what you mean, spending all the money for something small to mess up would be terrible... especially if i didn't notice till I got the rest together, then had to strip it back down... then risk messing something else up along the way. Trust me I know what you mean. But with a manual wouldn't it pretty much tell me what to do? And I've always been more of a see it then be able to do it exact, not a book person... but I can do the book thing too if I try. I've thought about going to school for it, but I just don't know if I want to do it for a living, and it would be more of a... just because I want to know how to do it for myself kind of thing. Back to my 4.2L post: I went to a junkyard today, where I seen the other engines at a while back for 250 ea. and they didn't have any 3.8L... they do however have a 1998 and 2001 f-150 4.2L. Problem is, he says they are so hard to come by these days, so he wont take anything less than $1000.00 for it. All I could do was laugh. He told me to try another one up the road who has a LOAD of mustangs, and said the guy loves them and is mostly what he keeps. But then he also said that I'd be lucky to get any engine from there for less than $750. I hope he's wrong but I'm going to go check it out tomorrow. Any opinions on what I should try to do? 3.8L or 4.2L... I really dont wanna spend $1000 on a junkyard engine that I'm not going to use half the parts off of. Thanks guys.
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Red '98 Mustang. Custom Dual Exhaust w/ fabbed X pipe. CAI. 17in Black Rims w/ Aluminum Lip. Alpine Head Unit and Type-S speakers in doors and decklid. 600w Bridged BOSS amp to two 12" Audio Bahn Blue Flame Series Subs. |