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Old March 2nd, 2010, 02:23 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by mcqueen View Post
I kind of doubt he did. There's really no point to it since nobody aside from anyone helping you work on the car will ever see the back side of the calipers.
Backsides are painted as well
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Old March 2nd, 2010, 03:05 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Safi View Post
Backsides are painted as well
lol..who wouldn't pait both sides...

and no you don't have to bleed the lines...just turn the calipers around....it's not hard and you won't destroy anything...and if you do i'm revoking your mustang ownership card
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Old March 2nd, 2010, 09:57 AM   #23
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I took mine off to paint. So much easier to work with off the car. Seriously it takes all of 30 seconds to remove the brake line. Just have a catch pan underneath it, it will leak somewhat, the first more so then any others. Bleeding the brakes is simple with a buddy, takes a few minutes. Really is not hard at all, you'll spend more time taping and prepping the wheel well and then trying to clean off any overspray then you will removing the caliper.
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Old March 2nd, 2010, 10:09 AM   #24
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Last time I drove my car I was actually thinking I needed to bleed the brakes. They felt a little squishy.

Can someone give a quick run through on how to correctly bleed them?
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Old March 2nd, 2010, 10:26 AM   #25
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This kinda explains it, but they are a little vague on things, and only one useless picture
http://www.corral.net/tech/maintenance/brakebleed.html
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Old March 2nd, 2010, 11:03 AM   #26
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Bleeding with a helper on the link you gave is how I would describe it as well. One person pumps the brakes, then holds, then the other opens the bleeder valve slightly, then tightens it, all as the pedal is held down. You basically want to do this until no more bubbles are coming out into the tube connected to the bleeder valve, and when the pedal feel firms up. Also keep an eye on the brake master cylinder fluid level, you'll probably have to top it off as you do this.
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Old March 2nd, 2010, 05:52 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by goren813 View Post
Bleeding with a helper on the link you gave is how I would describe it as well. One person pumps the brakes, then holds, then the other opens the bleeder valve slightly, then tightens it, all as the pedal is held down. You basically want to do this until no more bubbles are coming out into the tube connected to the bleeder valve, and when the pedal feel firms up. Also keep an eye on the brake master cylinder fluid level, you'll probably have to top it off as you do this.
Nice, ima do this... i think. I just wanted to do all four at the same time, can i use four channel locks to come about doing this instead of bleeding all of my fluid out? Then open the bleeder screw when they're back on and release the channel locks until the bubbles come out one at a time starting with the furthest away? Then i don't think you would need a buddy.
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Old March 2nd, 2010, 10:09 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by goren813 View Post
Bleeding with a helper on the link you gave is how I would describe it as well. One person pumps the brakes, then holds, then the other opens the bleeder valve slightly, then tightens it, all as the pedal is held down. You basically want to do this until no more bubbles are coming out into the tube connected to the bleeder valve, and when the pedal feel firms up. Also keep an eye on the brake master cylinder fluid level, you'll probably have to top it off as you do this.
Where is the 'break master cylinder'?

In the engine compartment somewhere? Or is it by the front driverside wheel?
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i liked the chilean miners before they went all mainstream. i liked them back when they were still underground.
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Old March 2nd, 2010, 10:34 PM   #29
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I know in the NewEdges you can easily spot it on the drivers side but not to sure with the S197s
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Old March 3rd, 2010, 10:46 AM   #30
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Thanks Blue, just now got back to this... that's it up there ^. Bad Black I've never done it on any car other than how I described it to you, so I can't really answer that question.
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Old March 3rd, 2010, 06:50 PM   #31
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I used the duplicolor on mine from American Muscle. It came with the kit (brush, masking tape, stirrer). I used a small foam paint brush that worked alot better than the regular brush. I removed my calipers from the rotors and taped off the parts that I didn't want to paint. Took about three coats.

I will be installing my new Cross drilled / slotted rotors this weekend. Should look very nice.

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