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Discussing Infamous Head Light Haze... in the Visual Forum. For those people who have used basic abrasives and/or polishing substances to 'restore' their ... Modded Mustangs is the premier Ford Mustang Forum on the internet. We discuss all aspects of the Ford Mustang on the forum. Registered Users do not see the above ads. Please Register - It's Free! |
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#1 |
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Newbie
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 24
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Infamous Head Light Haze...
For those people who have used basic abrasives and/or polishing substances to 'restore' their headlights, my hats off to you. In sixteen years I have never personally met someone who has and/or succeeded myself in clearing up the fade or the 'fogginess' through this method(S).
My only suggestion to others and maybe even myself, is to remove the unit and fill it with a chemical and water mixture. Rinse and sun dry. If anyone has any war stories to share about their battles with the notorious headlights, please rant away. I'm always curious to find out who put the time in to restoring, and who gave up and bought a new set. (Also include tips on the fill, rinse and dry method.) |
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#2 |
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Maintenance Man
2002 Mustang GT
11.47@120.58
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Valdosta, GA
Posts: 3,943
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I've never been successful, or tried, cleaning the inside of the headlights. I've used polishing compound a few times and cleaned the outsides really well... but never knew you could do anything for the inside. What chemicals did you use and how did it turn out?
You know, a how-to article with pictures would be invaluable, I'd love to add this to our tech section. Lots of people want to do this. |
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#3 |
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Grandpa
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,107
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yes, if anyone knows of anything, please tell.. i wasted $35 on some shit from 50.resto and it did absolutly nothing..
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#4 |
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Newbie
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 24
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I have found a few 'guides' which use relatively the same materials and procedure(S). Unfortunatley they all require an electric buffer. Not a big deal for most people, but I presume that some owners live in an apartment, or are still teenagers and do not have such tool(S).
I feel that the belief of the problem being on the inside, is due to the dismal results that most people have had in their attempts to rectify the haze build up and discoloring. Though regardless of the truth, cleaning the inside would not hurt. Here is the best way I know how to address the outside, but with fifteen+year old lights, don't expect too much: - 600 Grit Sandpaper WetorDry - 1500 Grit Sandpaper WetorDry - 2000 Grit Sandpaper WetorDry - Turtle wax polishing compound "and scratch remover" - Meguiar's Plastx Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish - 2 Polishing/Buffer Pads with drill (or electric polisher if you have one) - Clean rags - Masking Tape - Water (bottled) Step 1. "Tape Up" Get any kind of masking tape, and tape all around the headlights with the hood up so you won't accidentally scratch the paint finish. Step 2. "Wet sand with 600 grit sandpaper" Wet the sand paper (don't spare the water) and pure some water over the headlight and start sanding with a bit of force. Use side to side strokes instead of circles. Use lots of water, make sure the sandpaper is always wet. 10 minutes per headlight. You will noticed that the headlights might llook worse then you started, but thats OK. You want an EVEN sand, you will get a chalky paste as you sand. Once you get both headlights evenly sanded , proceed to step 3. Step 3. 'Wet sand at 1500 grit" First thing is to wet the headlights and wipe of any "chalky paste" from the the first sanding. Spend 10 minutes on each headlight during this step. Tha'ts because the real time to be spent is the 2000 grit. Use 1500 to speed the process up. Wet the sandpaper and headlight and once again, do side to side strokes . Keep the sandpaper wet at all times. You can use two pieces of sandpaper per headlight. Sand until you can start to see the inside of the headlight better and less cloudy. Once it drys it will turn to a milky color. Don't worry its normal at this point. Step 4. "Wet sand at 2000 grit" Once again, wet down the headlight , use a NEW clean rag and wipe the headlights clean. This is a very crucial and time consuming step(4). Approx 20 minutes per side. You may want to take a break first. You pretty much do the same side to side strokes with LOTS of water as you did in the last two steps. The difference here is, that you continue to sand until the headlights become almost new looking or at least close to your desired look (with water applied, it will still be cloudy/dry). You know you're done when the lights look pretty clear when there's water on them. Step 5. "Rubbing Compound and Polish" This is where the real magic happens. This is where your discouragement fades away(maybe). Even after the 2000 grit sanding drys theres still a cloudly look. Thats because theres millions of fine scratches that even the finest sandpaper can't get rid of. Thats where the "Turtlewax" polishing compound "and scratch remover" come in. This white paste will literlly remove the final scratches. Use a regular drill and buffering pad. If you have an actual polisher then use that. After wiping the headlights clean again , put a bit of the paste on a rag and apply it in circular motions on the headlight until its completely covered with a thin layer of the paste. Then start buffering the headlight until you start seeing the amazing clearity come through. It will amaze you(maybe). Can can spend as much time on this as you want. Step 6. "Final Polish" This is the final step before tape removal and wipe down. Apply the Meguiar's wax according to instructions. Now we need to figure out if this is do-able without the buffer. Also, consider that we should attach a tutorial to this, for those who simply wish to install new lights. From my experience it's been simple unbolt, unhook, rebolt, rehook... It would just make some people for more comfortable, before they are staring at an empty headlight compartment as the sun goes down... Side Question: Is there a difference between a factory original replacement headlight set, and the aftermarket ones? We know you can get 'clear,' 'classic,' or 'smoked' ; are they constructed differently/materials? Last longer? I have seen the 'euro' models of similar sorts, which I suspect just boast the obvious different magnification levels, and small styling changes. I was considering buying a cheap, but new 6 piece smoked for a project car, but worry that they'll suffer the same fate as the factory ones. |
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#5 |
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Grandpa
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,107
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good write up.. thats basically what i did with that crap kit i bought and it looked realy good until the final application(top coat) dried. then it was back to its ulgy ass self again.
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#6 |
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Regular
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Orlando
Posts: 152
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I always just use Mothers Mag and Aliminum polish and always get good results.
Have to do it about 3 times a Year but always comes out good.
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http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...ng8719/Sig.jpg Eibach lowering springs,Intake ported to Max,Electric cooling fan,120Amp Alt.,FlowMasters,Jacobs FC1000 Ignition system with coil,King Cobra Clutch,APC Racing Seats |
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#7 |
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MM Fanatic
1999 Ford Mustang V6
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: newport news, va
Posts: 3,719
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funny but some sugguest using a white thoothpaste as a cheaper alternative with the wet sand combo..... i can see this working on glass headlights but these plastic lights on my 99 i doubt it would cut it, i attempted similar on my third brake light cover with no success using various methods.
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#8 |
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Newbie
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 24
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Aye, when people throw the 'metal polish' idea your way, it never involves instructions.
It's just this empty notion that you can rub a metal polishing compound on a piece of plastic and somehow fifteen years of haze and water errosion magically dissapears. I think I'm going to go to the salvage yard and yank a headlight just to try something different. AJAX here we come. |
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#9 |
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Regular
1998 Mustang 3.8L
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Statesboro/Augusta GA.
Posts: 234
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I used the Flitz thing off TV that comes with the ball that u fits in like a drill bit on a electric drill. Honestly i had little faith but my uncle got the thing off TV and with a good electric drill going full blast it worked good. My sisters 1996 Jeep headlights cleared right up. However it dosnt work instantly it takes a good 30 min to get good results.
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#10 | |
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Enthusiast
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Newport News, VA
Posts: 732
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#11 |
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Regular
1998 Mustang 3.8L
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Statesboro/Augusta GA.
Posts: 234
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yea i was expecting it to mabye clear it up alittle but it really is worth the $19.95 or whatever it costs. The drill bit ball is made very well.
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#12 |
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Regular
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: up state NY
Posts: 278
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wow is this a first? an info-mercial product that works. glad it does i wanted to order one
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#13 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 5
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there's a company called Custom Chemical, part no. pol-100, believe it or not distributed by wal-mart that sells an optical polish, comes w/ 5 pads and the "mandrel" used it with a cordless drill and a little water both lights with one pad, worked like a champ, less then 10 min no scratches, etc....same stuff they use to polish eyelenses in glasses....
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#14 |
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Regular
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Port Huron, MI.
Posts: 395
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my problum is that its hazed on the inside iwas wondering if i could take the lens off and glue it back together of stuff the flitz ball inside the hole
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#15 |
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Enthusiast
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 639
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Sure seems like it would be easier to just get some new ones
Sure seems like it would be easier to just get some new ones, and be set for the next 15 years. They do make some plastic, like NASCAR used on windshields to protect the plastic lenses, if you get new ones. Just peel it off, and instant haze gone
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"Those who forget the past are condemned to repeat it" Rev. Jim Jones |
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#16 |
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Regular
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 109
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ive heard using warm water and baking soda and the green side of those yellow and green sponges work, with just a bit( ton) of elbow greases.....havent tried it though i've got the old 4 eyes 85 gt....let me know if anyone tries it....
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#17 |
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I Post Entirely Way Too Much
1997 Mustang Cobra
1/8 - 8.89@86mph
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 6,515
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I used 5 Minute optical polish. just clean you headlights and put the pad provided on a drill spay mist of water on the headlight and drill away. It worked wonders on my headlights! I was so supprised i thought i was going to have to buy new headlights. the best thing was it only costs $10 to have new looking headlight! here are some pics of the product and befor and after pics of my car
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#18 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Pewaukee, Wisconsin
Posts: 1,341
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wow they look like u almost baught new ones... good work where did u pick that stuff up at?
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2000 V6 Performance Red @ Cardomain Was fun but a waste... 1987 LX Hatch | Soon to be a 600hp monster |
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#19 |
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I Post Entirely Way Too Much
1997 Mustang Cobra
1/8 - 8.89@86mph
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 6,515
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I got it at wal mart lol in the automotive section.
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#20 |
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Regular
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 122
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mine were real shit so i replaced them..!
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