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Discussing Cheap Paint? in the Visual Forum. Has anyone ever had a car painted by one of those same day places? I ... Modded Mustangs is the premier Ford Mustang Forum on the internet. We discuss all aspects of the Ford Mustang on the forum. Registered Users do not see the above ads. Please Register - It's Free! |
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#1 |
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Enthusiast
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 639
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Cheap Paint?
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"Those who forget the past are condemned to repeat it" Rev. Jim Jones |
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#2 |
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Doc
91 Sonic Blue Goodness
19.83 @ 12mph
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NJ
Posts: 27,311
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cheap and paint shouldn't be words that are put together. i would wait and do it right so you have have a paint job in the future
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#3 |
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Regular
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 333
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a good paint job is basically 75% preperation.... if you get all the dings and dents out and prep the car REALLY well, you will get a somewhat ok paint job from maaco and those places..... I am NOT recommending them.. I'm just saying you really want to prep your car BEFORE you take it there..... |
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#4 |
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Regular
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 185
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1998 Mustang GT Super Charged! CGS Sub frames, Auto Meter gauges, Bassani Exhaust! |
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#5 |
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Enthusiast
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 768
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They are the guys they have built their lives around the "career" of painting cars. Not an employee of some big corp that does quantity and not quality. |
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#6 |
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Regular
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 277
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EDIT: atleast thats wut ive seen here in louisiana, i got a qoute on my 95 grand prix and the cost of paint was 254 or something like that, and thats with prep work for rear quarter panel, fender, trunk, and bumber. |
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#7 |
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MuchCoolerThanGTsetGO
2002 Mustang GT
SLOW
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Shepherdsville, Kentucky
Posts: 16,252
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Its all in the prep for the most part...You wont have a show car paint job but it will look good enough for a DD...As long as you do all the prep work that you want done then you will be fine... There prep work sorta sux from what I have seen...SO if you do it right then they will have a hard time messing up... But you get what you pay for... |
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#8 |
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Regular
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 333
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My car.. Shop does ALL WORK.... $6100 total. Now with ME doing all the prep, changing the front/rear bumpers, changing the hood, removing anything that needs to be removed and basically having the car 100% ready to primer and paint.... Down to $1100 if the paint inside the door's/trunk/hood, remove the sidescoops and other little stuff...... down to $400 if I just have the car sprayed....... |
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#9 |
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Regular
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 185
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1998 Mustang GT Super Charged! CGS Sub frames, Auto Meter gauges, Bassani Exhaust! |
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#10 | ||
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Enthusiast
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 991
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http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q...rGT/shiela.jpg
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#11 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,352
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#12 |
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Regular
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 185
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1998 Mustang GT Super Charged! CGS Sub frames, Auto Meter gauges, Bassani Exhaust! |
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#13 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,352
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#14 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Mooresville, NC
Posts: 1,213
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i did all the body work on my car in 3 days starting on a monday, sprayed the high build primer one afternoon, & my brother & i wet sanded the high build in a day, paint was done by my old boss all on the saturday morning, afternoon & early eve. ... sunday i got my car.. monday & tuesday wet sanded & buffed my whole car... granted, i worked at a custom hot rod/body & paint/resto shop for 3 years before i joined the airforce so i already have my methods & stuff down.. it's not really rocket science, just make sure you get everything completely straight or it will definately show.. my car is black so i made sure all my prep work was triple checked.. i checked it initially, had my dad check it, & then had my old boss check it.. all the hard work during the bodywork & prep phases is definately worth it when you see how straight it looks with fresh paint!
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http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2461223 1994 GT: MSD 6AL, BBK O/R H-Pipe, Dynomax Race Bullet mufflers, 3:73 rear, Hurst Short Shifter, MAC cold air intake & much more coming soon! |
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#15 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,352
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#16 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Mooresville, NC
Posts: 1,213
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without actually working at a body shop the best way to pick up on some of the stuff would be to try & find some books about paint & body repair.. i usually try to pick one up every now & then to learn different techniqes & what not.. try that!
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http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2461223 1994 GT: MSD 6AL, BBK O/R H-Pipe, Dynomax Race Bullet mufflers, 3:73 rear, Hurst Short Shifter, MAC cold air intake & much more coming soon! |
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#17 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,352
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#18 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Mooresville, NC
Posts: 1,213
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if thats what ya mean, most painters today use basecoat/clearcoat 2 step systems. they spray the color coat first, then lay on anywhere from 4 to 10 coats of clearcoat. once you spray out the clear & everything is dry, you will have a little bit of dirt specks in the paint & that orange peel look to it... this is impossible to get away from. dirt will get in the clear coat no matter how clean the booth is. the fix for dirt in the clear & orange peel is to block sand the clear coat. basically, i always start out with 1000 grit paper. always have running over where you are sanding for that you just use a hose. while you are sanding dont apply much pressure, let the paper do the work for you. make sure to stay away from edges & parts that you could easily sand through & keep drying off the area to check your progress. when you dry the area, you will most likely see really shiney spots that haven't been sanded. that means you are getting there, & keep working on that area (i say area meaning like a whole top of the fender or half the hood). you know you got all the orange peel & dirt out of the paint when you sqeegee it & there are no more really shiney spots. it is very important to not sand through the clear!!!!!! stay away from edges & do not use a whole lot of force when sanding!! also ALWAYs, ALWAYS keep running water over the paint when you are sanding.... i do the whole car like that in 1000 grit paper, go back over the whole car with 1500 grit, then hit it with 2000 grit. when you are finished sanding you will have to use a high speed buffer & a compond from 3M to get the scratches out. then you will go back over the car with a polish or a swirl remover.. i do not recommend anyone to do all this unless they are under direct supervision of an EXPERIENCED body & paint man!!!!! the best thing to do is to pay the body shop to do the color sanding & buffing!!!! honestly it's worth it! but if you are interested in learning the process, ask the owner of the shop if you can come in & watch them buff the car... i did that when i was 14 & we were having my parent's Corvette repainted. i asked if i could watch & maybe work with him to learn some things.... it was a great learning experience! & after all was said & done, he gave me a job working at his high end custom/restoration shop! anyways, i only recommend that kind of work for someone with experience because you can easily screw it up!!!
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http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2461223 1994 GT: MSD 6AL, BBK O/R H-Pipe, Dynomax Race Bullet mufflers, 3:73 rear, Hurst Short Shifter, MAC cold air intake & much more coming soon! |
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#19 | ||
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Enthusiast
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 991
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I'd probably tell you just to take it to a shop, whats a paint job run these days? A good one? 800, 900?
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#20 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Mooresville, NC
Posts: 1,213
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__________________
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2461223 1994 GT: MSD 6AL, BBK O/R H-Pipe, Dynomax Race Bullet mufflers, 3:73 rear, Hurst Short Shifter, MAC cold air intake & much more coming soon! |
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