Ford Mustang How-To's

Every person that has ever been to a drag strip all started off with one problem - they don’t know what to expect or do. Are you one of those people? If so, consider this  the first lesson from Modded Mustangs’ Drag Racing School.

So you have finally realized its pointless trying to hook your Mustang at the track with cheap (or expensive) street radials, and you have gone the extra mile to purchase to a decent set of racing slicks. Well, great! The amazing performance and traction slicks have to offer can bring a smile to any racer’s face. Once the hammer is dropped, the rush of acceleration travels through your body and pins you against the seat. It’s no wonder that more and more people are starting to use them.

Modded Mustangs’ Forum member tjames recently posted a how-to article for tinting your Mustang’s 3rd brake light and side markers. While no two write-up’s are ever alike, venture along as he spends less than $30 to add a personal touch to his ponycar. Lots of pictures and details are included so, if this is something you’ve been looking to do, it doesn’t get much better than this.

Proper maintenance is the key to keeping your pony at the head of the herd. Often overlooked, changing you’re Mustang’s oil is one of the most important maintenance services you can perform. Don’t mind alittle grease under your fingernails? Want to save a few bucks every few months? Changing your own oil isn’t as intimidating as it might seem, and we’re here to prove it.

Does your idle rise and fall over and over again? Does your ‘Stang stall when you come to a stop, or even when you put it in gear? It guess it’s time for a new IAC (idle air control, or as it’s sometimes called, idle air bypass)… or is it?

Fuel injected Mustangs use a small motor/valve assembly that allows a certain amount of air to bypass the throttle plate, entering the engine to control idle. As mileage increases dirt, air filter oil, and carbon build-up will take it’s toll and often cause idle surging and stalling. This can happen as early as 30,000 miles depending on conditions (K&N’s really speed up the process). Why replace it when you can clean it?