Shorted out ignition switch; now all is dead - Forums at Modded Mustangs
 
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post #1 of 6 Old August 30th, 2012, 06:49 PM Thread Starter
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Shorted out ignition switch; now all is dead

So the ignition switch shorted out (smoke, sparks, et al.), and I have replaced the ignition switch and the key cylinder (which was pretty loose anyway); but now nothing there works (that is to say, no hazards, no dashboard, and when you turn the key to the on position nothing ever happens, no crank, etc.). Other than the ignition problem, it (the car, a 1988 2.3 hatchback) was running more or less fine (80-mile commute every day). I've checked all the fuses; the car does turn over if I use a screwdriver @ the solenoid. Are there some other fuses about which I don't know? Or is something else permanently fried? Any suggestions would be welcome.

There is no power coming to any of the ten wires that connect to the ignition switch. The wire that goes around the switch (which, as far as I can tell, serves to DING DING DING DING when you put the key in the ignition) works.

Also, i know nothing whatsoever about cars and have no idea what those things are in front of the passenger seat (near where her right foot would be), and so I haven't touched anything over there.

Any suggestions would be most welcome! Especially from any mechanics near Annapolis / Baltimore / Washington who might be able to actually take a look (unless it's something really simple that I'm missing).
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post #2 of 6 Old August 31st, 2012, 11:49 AM
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Start with the fuse box. Any power there?
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post #3 of 6 Old August 31st, 2012, 12:24 PM
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i'm not the best at electrical, but have you checked the wires and made sure there are no breaks or places where they might have melted?
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post #4 of 6 Old August 31st, 2012, 01:11 PM
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Some cars have a fusible link in the harness

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post #5 of 6 Old August 31st, 2012, 01:20 PM
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Automotive wiring is a little bit like plumbing, but instead of fixing a break in a pipe, you're fixing a break in a wire or a circuit. Having access to a volt/ohm meter can save you a lot of time and frustration. Measuring continuity one wire at a time is a good way to run down a problem, using the process of elimination. Using a wiring diagram like a map, you can follow each wire in a circuit from beginning to end until you find something questionable. Below you will find a link to your cars wiring diagram. Use it + a volt/ ohm meter to trace the wires coming from and going to the ignition switch and let us know what you find.

LINK --=======> http://www.rothfam.com/svo/reference/88-90Mustang.pdf


TVS Supercharged SVO 2.7L

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post #6 of 6 Old August 31st, 2012, 10:23 PM Thread Starter
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I've got it working now. I found a blown fusible link, very close to the starter solenoid; replaced it (16 gauge, per this image, @ lower right). The horn, cruise control, and dashboard lights are still out though (the instrument panel works, including BATT, BRAKE, and AMP indicators; what I mean is that I can't see the speedometer and tachometer at night), so I'm going to continue the search for bad wires and or fusible links.

Thanks to everyone for their input!
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