I'm about to buy a 2.3l and I have questions - Page 2 - Forums at Modded Mustangs
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post #21 of 65 Old March 21st, 2013, 07:20 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TG4 View Post
You probably know this, but an easy way to check, have someone turn the wheel back and forth, if when changing direction, the upper and lower shafts don't move in unison, then its the rag joint.
Yeah I know what I'm doing for the most part, I'm no stranger to fixing raggedy cars









14 inch wheels LIKE A BAUCE

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post #22 of 65 Old March 21st, 2013, 08:35 PM
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Yes sn95 seats are direct swap, but they a little taller.
I run them in my n/a dual plug 87 mustang...
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post #23 of 65 Old March 21st, 2013, 11:35 PM
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Yeah I figured you knew from ur 600+ posts, but I figured it wouldn't hurt to say.

I can't find a signature I like.... I am too picky
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post #24 of 65 Old March 21st, 2013, 11:38 PM
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that's pretty nice, good catch hamsandwich


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post #25 of 65 Old March 22nd, 2013, 01:05 AM
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Mudflaps add 20hp, you're good.
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post #26 of 65 Old March 22nd, 2013, 08:26 PM Thread Starter
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Hahah. I'm probably taking the mudflaps off, if anyone wants some more horsepower

01 Bullitt #03179 | HP292s cams | 4.10s | Other stuff
87 GT 5.0L 5 speed | TW170's | Cobra intake
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post #27 of 65 Old March 24th, 2013, 03:54 PM Thread Starter
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All the little problems with this car are easy fixes, but I can't seem to figure this one out

The AC works great. The only problem is, it's always on.

When the selector is set to "vent" (not AC) and the temperature all the way to "heat", the air is lukewarm because the heat is fighting the AC. In other words, the cold air from the compressor is always coming through. When I take the belt off the AC compressor, the heater works great.

Any ideas on how I can fix it?



Oh yeah, this is definitely a 4 plug head. It's got one distributor and four spark plugs. I'm not worried, the motor runs great... just kinda strange that he would say it's an 8 plug head.

01 Bullitt #03179 | HP292s cams | 4.10s | Other stuff
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post #28 of 65 Old March 24th, 2013, 06:19 PM
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Maybe it's an 8 plug head but only using 4 of them?

Can you post some pics?

Look in between the intake runners for a 'plug' in a spark plug hole...
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post #29 of 65 Old March 24th, 2013, 06:48 PM
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That's good news for you. Means even less work to go turbo. About 4 modifications to the existing wiring harness then.
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post #30 of 65 Old March 24th, 2013, 07:11 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vristang View Post
Maybe it's an 8 plug head but only using 4 of them?

Can you post some pics?

Look in between the intake runners for a 'plug' in a spark plug hole...
That's the first thing I thought of, and there are no holes for more plugs that I can see. It's gonna be raining again tomorrow but I'll see if I can get some pictures.

I'm also painting the interior pieces from brown to black and dying the carpet. I've got the entire interior stripped, already did the center console and passenger door panel and they're coming out really good.

01 Bullitt #03179 | HP292s cams | 4.10s | Other stuff
87 GT 5.0L 5 speed | TW170's | Cobra intake
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post #31 of 65 Old March 25th, 2013, 01:01 AM
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It has to be a single plug head. DPs had a different intake that the distributor doesn't fit around, and from what I've been told, the DP intake wont bolt right up to a single plug head. Good news for you, hope you didn't pay extra expecting that. Wonder if it got the newer cam? Pull the VC and give me a pic on the top end and I'll be able to give tou a better idea of what you've got.

---------- Post added at 01:01 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:56 AM ----------

Oh and I'm not going to be much help with the A/C--ripped it out of my '93 and the '90 is factory non-A/C...and the '87 has been disassembled for too long to even count.

Check fuses and relays first. Maybe the clutch on the compressor is broken and won't disengage? I can help with going fast...but my '90 doesn't even have vent control. If the heats on it's blowing at the front defrosters, and I don't care enough to fix it
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post #32 of 65 Old March 25th, 2013, 03:39 AM
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I'm anxious to see how this interior is coming out. Would you mind taking some pics please? Can't wait to see your engine bay as well. You have me quite intrigued.

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post #33 of 65 Old March 25th, 2013, 02:49 PM Thread Starter
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I'm not going to take the valve cover off today, but maybe these pics can give you an idea of what I'm working with







A few things. Since I took those pics, I ripped out that stupid exhaust manifold heat shield/duct thing along with the airbox, then I plugged up all the vacuum lines that went to the airbox. I actually found a lot of vacuum leaks and plugged them all up, it idles way better now. I'm just gonna run a pipe with a cone filter on it for an intake, since the car doesn't have any kind of MAF or VAF sensor.

The exhaust manifold is cracked. If I put a ranger header on it, can I delete the EGR? That would clean up even more crap that doesn't need to be there.

The AC clutch spins freely when the key is off, and engages whenever the key is on no matter what. Gotta be an electrical or vacuum issue.


Here's how the interior is coming along. The back seats are completely out now though:



Door panel painted:



Center console and a few other parts:






The front suspension and steering components are tight as can be, but there's a leak coming from somewhere in the power steering. Hopefully I can just fix it without buying a new rack or pump.

Updates to follow as I figure things out

01 Bullitt #03179 | HP292s cams | 4.10s | Other stuff
87 GT 5.0L 5 speed | TW170's | Cobra intake
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post #34 of 65 Old March 25th, 2013, 06:47 PM
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Looks like the single plug intake setup to me.

I have a spare cast manifold sitting around. As for the EGR, you can pull the tube and fitting out of the manifold and use a 3/4" pipe plug. I may have one of those sitting around as well. If not, I can get one for $5. Ranger headers don't get you anything, more of a pain than it's really worth to get one. Or you can just jump straight into a speedway header for $100 but then you have to mess with the rest of the exhaust.

I also have a polished alum intake...
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post #35 of 65 Old March 25th, 2013, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
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How much for the manifold? Will the EGR delete trip a check engine light?

I think this guy might have installed the wrong computer or something, because the radiator fan is always on when the key is on. Even when the car isn't started. I think that's somehow related to my AC problem.

Going from the body wiring diagram, the only things that control both the fan and the AC compressor are the PCM and the "AC Cooling Fan Controller"... I'm not sure what that is, but I'm gonna try to find it tomorrow.

01 Bullitt #03179 | HP292s cams | 4.10s | Other stuff
87 GT 5.0L 5 speed | TW170's | Cobra intake
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post #36 of 65 Old March 25th, 2013, 07:55 PM
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Normal. Mine comes on at key on as well. I like it because I can keep the fan running while the motor isn't running, help cool it off (you don't have to worry about that so much when you're N/A...my old N/A build ran for a long time with an empty radiator )

Sometimes the EGR will trip the light, sometimes it'll ignore it. Either way, a tune will clear it up. PM me an offer on the manifold. I wire wheeled all the rust off and sprayed it VHT black...which just turned grey as soon as it heated up. Also took a little extra material out of the collector and a tiny bit out of the ports. Good for 1-2hp if anything, just made me feel better
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post #37 of 65 Old March 25th, 2013, 08:17 PM Thread Starter
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Alright then. I've never had a car that where the fan stayed on unless I wired it to do that, even on cars older than this one. I guess that's why I thought it wasn't right.

01 Bullitt #03179 | HP292s cams | 4.10s | Other stuff
87 GT 5.0L 5 speed | TW170's | Cobra intake
04 Yamaha R1


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post #38 of 65 Old March 25th, 2013, 08:26 PM
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Well alot of people do just wire it like that. Honestly not sure if it's supposed to or not, just know it's normal/common. Both of mine did it.
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post #39 of 65 Old March 25th, 2013, 08:32 PM Thread Starter
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Well if he wired the fan like that, I suspect that he may have wired the AC to be on all the time. Maybe by accident. There's a bunch of wires on the drivers side fender by the battery that are all on ring grommets and held together with a bolt, and a red wire that goes across the sway bar to the starter. Also a brand new + battery cable. I think it may be missing a relay or something and it's all just jumped together on the ignition hot wire.

01 Bullitt #03179 | HP292s cams | 4.10s | Other stuff
87 GT 5.0L 5 speed | TW170's | Cobra intake
04 Yamaha R1


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post #40 of 65 Old March 26th, 2013, 01:33 AM
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If you're manifold is cracked then you will see a gain by going to a ranger header.

Egr delete will trip a code, but it has minimal effect on how the engine runs.
You can find plugs that will 'simulate' the egr and eliminate the CEL

If the fan and AC control run through the same 'box' then start looking there....
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