2.3 N/A Performance Thread - Forums at Modded Mustangs
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post #1 of 95 Old September 8th, 2007, 04:18 AM Thread Starter
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2.3 N/A Performance Thread

So it's still not complete yet, but I've re-wrote the entire thing. Feel free to comment and advice/more info is always welcome!

Cheap/easy upgrades

Air intake: This is easy. You can use anything for this, your average everyday Civic intake from Autozone if you want.

Ranger Header: This is also pretty easy, you get a header from a 94-95 Ranger and itís a direct bolt-on.

Ranger roller cam: This cam comes in 89+ Rangers and 91+ Mustangs, so if you have a 91+ Mustang, donít bother with this one. It gives a slight boost in horsepower by reducing friction in the camshaft. Roller cams also donít wear out as fast as flat-tappets.

Injectors and MAF: This is something I don't understand too well, so I'll just link to a site that gives some rather good information http://www.cadvision.com/blanchas/Ranger/efi.html

Knock sensor: This is extremely easy. You just unplug it! Set your timing correctly and take it off. This sensor is designed to lengthen the life of the 2.3 by setting the timing back at the slightest ping in the engine.

Muffler: A nice little upgrade to make your 2.3 sound different from the others. It's good for a few horsepower, maybe 3-5. A recommendation? Flowmaster 40 muffler will "make it sound like a big ol' V8." (thanks Turbo )



Medium difficulty/cost upgrades

Milling the head/Thinner head gasket: Fairly easy operation for a machine shop, material is removed from the head surface which increases compression. The thinner head gasket does the same thing, but doesnít require work. Usually you do both when you get the head shaved. The increase in compression creates more horsepower.

Stage 1 cam: When I say stage 1, Iím referring to the level of performance it gives you. A relatively slight increase in horsepower without sacrificing too much gas mileage and without requiring you to change the valve train at all. These cams are relatively cheap from just a few horsepower increase around $110, to maybe a 10-20hp increase from $150-$200.

Cam timing gear: This is just a gear to adjust the timing of your camshaft. It doesnít increase horsepower, but it allows you to adjust where your peak hp/tq is. This is especially useful with an aftermarket cam, as you wouldnít notice much of a difference with the stock cam. These usually go around $80-$100.

7.5 rear: Yes, you have a 7.5 rear stock on your car. So why post it as an upgrade? Well, the pre-í86 Gts and SVOs had 7.5 rears with T-loks. The T-lok is really what youíre aiming for, a rear from a junked Mustang would be cheaper than a T-lok. So why not just get an 8.8? Honestly you can, but the increase in weight wouldnít be worth it, as you will NEVER break the 7.5 with a n/a 2.3.

Exhaust: A lot of people make the mistake of getting an exhaust that is too big. A single 2.25Ē to 2.5Ē exhaust is fine. If you want duals, youíll need smaller pipes. High-flow cats are advisable if you need to pass emissions, otherwise a straight back exhaust would be cheaper and create more power.

Aftermarket header: After you start upgrading to stage 2 cams and stroker kits, youíre going to need a bigger exhaust system to push all the gas out, a long tube header from an aftermarket company would do you good at that point. These only cost around $180 so itís not out of your price range, but if you only have or plan to have slight mods, stick with the ranger header. Aftermarket headers are aimed more towards higher RPM applications.

Ignition: An aftermarket ignition system would give you a nice little boost in performance. A few horsepower, a little increase in gas mileage, and the ability to safely regulate your rev limit (in some systems). This is also a fairly cheap upgrade, going for around $200-$300.

Aluminum driveshaft: This is a relatively good upgrade. It reduces weight in the drive train, helping to get that power to the ground faster. It will help your engine rev faster and make the car feel peppier. Should go for around $200-$250.




Expensive/difficult upgrades

Stage 2+ cam: Stage 2 and 3 cams arenít more expensive in themselves, itís the cost in fuel economy, engine aggressiveness, and most of all, the cost of upgrading your valve train. These cams (esp the stage 3) will give you a nice increase in power, however it is necessary to replace your valve springs, valves, retainers, followers, etc. In some cams, oversized valves are necessary for proper geometry. An increase in compression is recommended for some, as is a proper exhaust/intake set-up and air/fuel ratio.

Swap to T5: Youíre not going to gain any horsepower from this, but you would free some up and definitely notice a substantial increase in performance switching to a manual transmission from an automatic. However, this is a very difficult swap and usually costs a pretty penny.

Long rod/stoker kit: This is a relatively expensive mod, especially the stroker. The long rod kit can be obtained for around $550. It works by using longer rods to push a smaller piston, increasing the time the piston spends at the top of the combustion chamber, allowing the fuel to burn more and creating more horsepower. A long rod kit does not change stroke or compression. A stroker kit, on the other hand, uses a different crankshaft (thus being more expensive) to change the stroke. It too uses a longer rod and smaller piston, and does about the same thing. However, along with keeping the piston at the top longer, it increases the stroke, effectively burning the fuel even further. A stroker kit would change the displacement of the engine, for example, it would go from a 2.3L to a 2.5L with certain kits.

Port and polish: We all know what porting and polishing does right? This upgrade will open up the passageways that allow air into the engine. From what I understand, one of the main problems the 2.3 has with making power is the restrictive airflow. Solve this problem and youíre on your way to making big power.

Tuner/Computer: I donít really understand these too well, I need input from more experienced people.

Gears/T-lok: Gears are a very easy way to get an increase in acceleration, at the cost of gas mileage. On an n/a 2.3, 4.10s or even 4.30s wouldnít be a bad idea. (insert calculator here) See for yourself. Also, if you didnít/couldnít get the 7.5 rear from an early GT, you can always buy one. I would get both at once, since it would cut the install price to do both at once instead of coming back twice. Putting power to both wheels is important as you start to make more and more power.

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post #2 of 95 Old September 8th, 2007, 04:20 AM Thread Starter
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feel free to add info and/or comment on it

dont be afraid to say "hey MSO, you dont know wtf ur talkin about"

this is jus a rough draft.. ill fix it later..

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post #3 of 95 Old September 13th, 2007, 03:05 PM
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and blocking (egr valve) give you about 10 free hp and better gas milege

and when i say better gas milege i mean it, you can most def tell a diff.

93 fourbanger /intake,exhaust,erg delete,8 inch sub...for now


fukin gas prices!
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post #4 of 95 Old September 13th, 2007, 03:08 PM Thread Starter
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oh wow

i cant believe i missed that

hahahahahahha

<----- newb

ill have turbo fix that

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post #5 of 95 Old September 13th, 2007, 03:17 PM
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wow.. ive noticed a bad change in my gas milage
with the EGR blocked off.

also you forgot my exhaust hack

2000 3.8L Mustang - BLACK - 5-SPEED - STOCK
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post #6 of 95 Old September 13th, 2007, 04:05 PM Thread Starter
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hmm maybe you didnt do it right

did you do the computer thing so it thinks the EGR is still working?

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post #7 of 95 Old September 13th, 2007, 04:07 PM
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you dont have to do anythign just shove a plate
between the EGR and the Intake. I went to the
point where I had two gaskets on both sides so
Im not getting any exhaust leaks from the EGR
where it meets the intake, and on the other side
of the plate so I dont have a intake that will have
leaks as well. no Check Engine light or nothing

2000 3.8L Mustang - BLACK - 5-SPEED - STOCK
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post #8 of 95 Old September 14th, 2007, 12:03 AM
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I accidently deleted your performance upgrade post CM

1988 LX Coupe 2.5L, GT35R, 44mm WG, 32psi, C16.
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post #9 of 95 Old September 14th, 2007, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboLX
I accidently deleted your performance upgrade post CM
lol

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post #10 of 95 Old October 1st, 2007, 11:51 AM Thread Starter
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So it's still not complete yet, but I've re-wrote the entire thing. Feel free to comment and advice/more info is always welcome!

Cheap/easy upgrades

Air intake: This is easy. You can use anything for this, your average everyday Civic intake from Autozone if you want.

Ranger Header: This is also pretty easy, you get a header from a 94-95 Ranger and itís a direct bolt-on.

Ranger roller cam: This cam comes in 89+ Rangers and 91+ Mustangs, so if you have a 91+ Mustang, donít bother with this one. It gives a slight boost in horsepower by reducing friction in the camshaft. Roller cams also donít wear out as fast as flat-tappets.

Injectors and MAF: This is something I don't understand too well, so I'll just link to a site that gives some rather good information http://www.cadvision.com/blanchas/Ranger/efi.html

Knock sensor: This is extremely easy. You just unplug it! Set your timing correctly and take it off. This sensor is designed to lengthen the life of the 2.3 by setting the timing back at the slightest ping in the engine.

Muffler: A nice little upgrade to make your 2.3 sound different from the others. It's good for a few horsepower, maybe 3-5. A recommendation? Flowmaster 40 muffler will "make it sound like a big ol' V8." (thanks Turbo )



Medium difficulty/cost upgrades

Milling the head/Thinner head gasket: Fairly easy operation for a machine shop, material is removed from the head surface which increases compression. The thinner head gasket does the same thing, but doesnít require work. Usually you do both when you get the head shaved. The increase in compression creates more horsepower.

Stage 1 cam: When I say stage 1, Iím referring to the level of performance it gives you. A relatively slight increase in horsepower without sacrificing too much gas mileage and without requiring you to change the valve train at all. These cams are relatively cheap from just a few horsepower increase around $110, to maybe a 10-20hp increase from $150-$200.

Cam timing gear: This is just a gear to adjust the timing of your camshaft. It doesnít increase horsepower, but it allows you to adjust where your peak hp/tq is. This is especially useful with an aftermarket cam, as you wouldnít notice much of a difference with the stock cam. These usually go around $80-$100.

7.5 rear: Yes, you have a 7.5 rear stock on your car. So why post it as an upgrade? Well, the pre-í86 Gts and SVOs had 7.5 rears with T-loks. The T-lok is really what youíre aiming for, a rear from a junked Mustang would be cheaper than a T-lok. So why not just get an 8.8? Honestly you can, but the increase in weight wouldnít be worth it, as you will NEVER break the 7.5 with a n/a 2.3.

Exhaust: A lot of people make the mistake of getting an exhaust that is too big. A single 2.25Ē to 2.5Ē exhaust is fine. If you want duals, youíll need smaller pipes. High-flow cats are advisable if you need to pass emissions, otherwise a straight back exhaust would be cheaper and create more power.

Aftermarket header: After you start upgrading to stage 2 cams and stroker kits, youíre going to need a bigger exhaust system to push all the gas out, a long tube header from an aftermarket company would do you good at that point. These only cost around $180 so itís not out of your price range, but if you only have or plan to have slight mods, stick with the ranger header. Aftermarket headers are aimed more towards higher RPM applications.

Ignition: An aftermarket ignition system would give you a nice little boost in performance. A few horsepower, a little increase in gas mileage, and the ability to safely regulate your rev limit (in some systems). This is also a fairly cheap upgrade, going for around $200-$300.

Aluminum driveshaft: This is a relatively good upgrade. It reduces weight in the drive train, helping to get that power to the ground faster. It will help your engine rev faster and make the car feel peppier. Should go for around $200-$250.




Expensive/difficult upgrades

Stage 2+ cam: Stage 2 and 3 cams arenít more expensive in themselves, itís the cost in fuel economy, engine aggressiveness, and most of all, the cost of upgrading your valve train. These cams (esp the stage 3) will give you a nice increase in power, however it is necessary to replace your valve springs, valves, retainers, followers, etc. In some cams, oversized valves are necessary for proper geometry. An increase in compression is recommended for some, as is a proper exhaust/intake set-up and air/fuel ratio.

Swap to T5: Youíre not going to gain any horsepower from this, but you would free some up and definitely notice a substantial increase in performance switching to a manual transmission from an automatic. However, this is a very difficult swap and usually costs a pretty penny.

Long rod/stoker kit: This is a relatively expensive mod, especially the stroker. The long rod kit can be obtained for around $550. It works by using longer rods to push a smaller piston, increasing the time the piston spends at the top of the combustion chamber, allowing the fuel to burn more and creating more horsepower. A long rod kit does not change stroke or compression. A stroker kit, on the other hand, uses a different crankshaft (thus being more expensive) to change the stroke. It too uses a longer rod and smaller piston, and does about the same thing. However, along with keeping the piston at the top longer, it increases the stroke, effectively burning the fuel even further. A stroker kit would change the displacement of the engine, for example, it would go from a 2.3L to a 2.5L with certain kits.

Port and polish: We all know what porting and polishing does right? This upgrade will open up the passageways that allow air into the engine. From what I understand, one of the main problems the 2.3 has with making power is the restrictive airflow. Solve this problem and youíre on your way to making big power.

Tuner/Computer: I donít really understand these too well, I need input from more experienced people.

Gears/T-lok: Gears are a very easy way to get an increase in acceleration, at the cost of gas mileage. On an n/a 2.3, 4.10s or even 4.30s wouldnít be a bad idea. (insert calculator here) See for yourself. Also, if you didnít/couldnít get the 7.5 rear from an early GT, you can always buy one. I would get both at once, since it would cut the install price to do both at once instead of coming back twice. Putting power to both wheels is important as you start to make more and more power.






change it to that k?

i think that's a better version

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post #11 of 95 Old October 29th, 2007, 03:15 PM
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better

93 fourbanger /intake,exhaust,erg delete,8 inch sub...for now


fukin gas prices!
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post #12 of 95 Old October 29th, 2007, 03:17 PM Thread Starter
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hm turbo you shuda quoted me when you changed it

the underlined and highlighted words make it look better

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post #13 of 95 Old October 29th, 2007, 03:24 PM
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here is where you can get an EGR block off plate

http://www.thedetailzone.com/Ford%20...j%20Access.htm

scroll to middle of page.


upper intake (aftermarket)

http://www.cp-e.com/2009.html

1988 LX Coupe 2.5L, GT35R, 44mm WG, 32psi, C16.
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post #14 of 95 Old November 8th, 2007, 08:35 PM Thread Starter
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^are those upper intakes good for n/a engines?

and a 60mm TB is too big for one right?

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post #15 of 95 Old November 9th, 2007, 07:08 AM
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the intake might be to much, but the TB will be nice upgrade

1988 LX Coupe 2.5L, GT35R, 44mm WG, 32psi, C16.
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post #16 of 95 Old December 28th, 2007, 12:05 PM
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First let me say that I am really enjoying this site..
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post #17 of 95 Old December 28th, 2007, 12:06 PM
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I have a 81 capri with a 83 2.3 in it and I am looking to restore the car
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post #18 of 95 Old December 28th, 2007, 12:11 PM
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would you guys suggest staying with the carburated engine or should I go with a later model fuel injected engine
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post #19 of 95 Old December 28th, 2007, 02:59 PM Thread Starter
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2.3s suck with carb, i'd go with fuel injection

unless you plan on serious racing, in which case i don't think it would matter either way

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post #20 of 95 Old December 30th, 2007, 06:51 PM
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Hmmm well if I go with the fuel injection that means I have to find another engine...
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