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post #1 of 15 Old November 5th, 2014, 11:23 AM Thread Starter
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Installing a head

Hey guys my first head install. I removed the head and I'm re installing a different head. Stock 2.3l from another mustang. I'm just wondering what needs to be done for the head/cam to match the block/piston position. I don't think you just slap it on and it works, cam timing vs piston position needs to be synced right?

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post #2 of 15 Old November 5th, 2014, 11:59 AM
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Assuming you're swapping like heads, you shouldn't have to do anything special. Turn the engine so the #1 cylinder is at TDC (check the crank pulley timing mark to make sure you're not 180* out) while you have the head off, then when you put everything back together line up the cam sprocket with the mark on the timing cover and you should be pretty much spot on. It's pretty simple on the 2.3L, I did lots of timing belt changes which boil down to the same thing.

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post #3 of 15 Old November 5th, 2014, 12:24 PM
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As far as mechanical fitment, you can put any head from 76? All the way to the 98-01 2.5 head on any block. The intakes, fuel injection, and ignitions are all that changed, you can use any stock 2.3 exhaust manifold on any head too, except for the egr forts on some of the mid year motors, which I plug.

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1989 Ranger 4X4 2.5L 5 Speed solid Dana 30 front axle, 4.5" suspension lift, 3" body. ( blown up....)
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post #4 of 15 Old November 5th, 2014, 01:14 PM Thread Starter
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Ok cool I just didn't want valves open when they're not supposed to and pistons up when they're supposed to be down

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post #5 of 15 Old November 5th, 2014, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
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Also I need new head bolts right?

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post #6 of 15 Old November 5th, 2014, 08:06 PM
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I have never bought a new head bolt. Not one. I've only broken two of them, and its because on my racecar we torque them to 110ftlbs not the speced 90.

1991 Mustang LX 2.3L 5 Speed convert
1989 Ranger 4X4 2.5L 5 Speed solid Dana 30 front axle, 4.5" suspension lift, 3" body. ( blown up....)
Entire turbo kit waiting to be used again.
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post #7 of 15 Old November 5th, 2014, 10:45 PM Thread Starter
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So I can re-use the old bolts

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post #8 of 15 Old November 6th, 2014, 11:18 AM
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Yeah, there were no torque to yield bolts on any older engines.

2005 Mustang GT
CMS Stage 1 cams, Lito Tune, C&L Racer, CMDP, SR UDP, JBA LT's & catted H, FRPP Touring AB, Koni STR.T, BMR springs, J&M upper/mount, BMR lowers & brackets, J&M pb, Steeda Tri-Ax, Brembos
2009 Ranger XL SCab-4.0, auto, 4WD
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post #9 of 15 Old November 9th, 2014, 10:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikel89us View Post
I have never bought a new head bolt. Not one. I've only broken two of them, and its because on my racecar we torque them to 110ftlbs not the speced 90.
Was that on your circle track motors? I've always torqued the 2.3L head to 85# (80-90 is specified range). OEM felpro gaskets. Have I been lucky thus far, or am I missing something???
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post #10 of 15 Old November 9th, 2014, 11:47 PM Thread Starter
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So the bolts aren't stretched or shouldn't be right? Just reuse them since the car isn't putting out much power right?

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post #11 of 15 Old November 10th, 2014, 06:04 AM
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They are not torque to yield bolts, they are safe to reuse.

1991 Mustang LX 2.3L 5 Speed convert
1989 Ranger 4X4 2.5L 5 Speed solid Dana 30 front axle, 4.5" suspension lift, 3" body. ( blown up....)
Entire turbo kit waiting to be used again.
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post #12 of 15 Old November 11th, 2014, 12:32 PM
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Torque to yield or not, i would never reuse factory head bolts. Some of us have had no issue doing so, but even if John Force himself or even Ford told me it was ok, i would still replace them with new ones. Engine fasteners (anything holding the engine itself together...or suspension related), replace them. Smaller stuff like accessory bolts or putting an interior back together etc., reuse.
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post #13 of 15 Old November 11th, 2014, 01:10 PM
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So would you replace the bolts holding the main caps on too? It's not like a bolt is ruined after one use unless it's specifically made that way.

I would not give a second thought to reusing head bolts. The only problem with head bolts is that you often get an inaccurate torque reading as compared to studs since you're turning the entire bolt and friction messes with your torque readings.

2005 Mustang GT
CMS Stage 1 cams, Lito Tune, C&L Racer, CMDP, SR UDP, JBA LT's & catted H, FRPP Touring AB, Koni STR.T, BMR springs, J&M upper/mount, BMR lowers & brackets, J&M pb, Steeda Tri-Ax, Brembos
2009 Ranger XL SCab-4.0, auto, 4WD
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post #14 of 15 Old November 11th, 2014, 04:11 PM
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Fb93, you obviously have never priced bolts for a 2.3... The head bolts are expensive, and I've never seen a set of main bolts (I know they probably sell them). These motors were designed for German military vehicles in the 60's. They are extremely overbuilt, and the stock block and head with all factory components except the pistons and rod bolts will handle 400-450 hp.

1991 Mustang LX 2.3L 5 Speed convert
1989 Ranger 4X4 2.5L 5 Speed solid Dana 30 front axle, 4.5" suspension lift, 3" body. ( blown up....)
Entire turbo kit waiting to be used again.
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post #15 of 15 Old November 12th, 2014, 03:32 AM Thread Starter
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Good info Mike I thought they were torque to yield (did not know what that meant)

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