2006 mustang GT supercharger? - Forums at Modded Mustangs
 
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post #1 of 12 Old June 20th, 2017, 09:33 PM Thread Starter
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2006 mustang GT supercharger?

I would like to supercharge my 2006 mustang GT I was thinking about getting a currency supercharger but I am unsure everything I need for this to work safely. My mustang has suspension work and an axle back..STOCK.
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post #2 of 12 Old June 20th, 2017, 09:35 PM Thread Starter
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Vortech***not currency hahah
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post #3 of 12 Old June 21st, 2017, 09:09 AM
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Are you trying to be a kit or piece everything together separately?


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post #4 of 12 Old June 21st, 2017, 09:53 AM Thread Starter
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My problem is I want the vortech kit! But I really wanted to buy the kenne bell supercharger which is like 5k but I do not know what else I would need?? I want a badass street car! And I will be on stock internals for a couple months.
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post #5 of 12 Old June 21st, 2017, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Davon Ervin View Post
My problem is I want the vortech kit! But I really wanted to buy the kenne bell supercharger which is like 5k but I do not know what else I would need?? I want a badass street car! And I will be on stock internals for a couple months.

Well for starters, that's two different kinds of superchargers so you have to figure out what route you want to go. If you are wanting to up the boost then you might as well build the motor first, then get whichever supercharger you decide on. Why put it on just to take it off in a couple months to build the motor?


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post #6 of 12 Old June 23rd, 2017, 02:43 PM
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I've been on stock internals for 5-6 years now. Unless you want to go over 600 at the motor or 500 to the wheels you can stay on the factory bottom end. That is with a good tune of course.


Whipple, 3.125" pulley-Comp NSR's-Meziere-Pacesetter L/T's+Outlaws-Level 10 trans-PI 3400-PH driveshaft-Auburn Pro LSD-Richmond 4.10's-CobraJet springs-Viking shocks-BMR control arms, panhard, rear sway bar-and a bunch of other really cool shit
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post #7 of 12 Old June 24th, 2017, 05:03 AM
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The stock I-beam powdered metal connecting rods will only tolerate so much cylinder pressure before they either bend or break and make a nice hole in the block. Avoiding detonation is absolutely essential so the timing and fueling have to be spot on regardless of power level. That said, anything over 450rwhp on stock internals is a roll of the dice so it might be wise to preemptively upgrade the rods & pistons to forged items.
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post #8 of 12 Old June 29th, 2017, 08:02 PM
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Whats your budget?
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post #9 of 12 Old August 9th, 2017, 10:41 AM
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Get anything bout a Kenne Bell. They're the worst 3v blower you can get.
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post #10 of 12 Old August 10th, 2017, 01:54 AM
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Originally Posted by 07 Boss View Post
I've been on stock internals for 5-6 years now. Unless you want to go over 600 at the motor or 500 to the wheels you can stay on the factory bottom end. That is with a good tune of course.
What's your rev limiter setting?
I'm assuming your Whipple supercharger's maximum boost is about 10psi so with LT headers and NSR cams, your motor's putting out about 610 crank hp (535rwhp manual, 505rwhp auto) which is really pushing the stock rods/pistons to the limit. If your engine rarely goes above 6000rpm, that's probably the reason it's survived so long.


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311rwhp 328rwtq with stage 1 bolt-ons
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post #11 of 12 Old August 10th, 2017, 12:06 PM
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What's your rev limiter setting?
I'm assuming your Whipple supercharger's maximum boost is about 10psi so with LT headers and NSR cams, your motor's putting out about 610 crank hp (535rwhp manual, 505rwhp auto) which is really pushing the stock rods/pistons to the limit. If your engine rarely goes above 6000rpm, that's probably the reason it's survived so long.
6700. 10.5 psi. I lose about 1 psi due to headers and cams but that just makes more power. And I drive it like it's stolen. My car never really sees below 2500 RPM's, even cruising. O/D doesn't even get turned on till 70 mph. Shift points are set relatively high. I go to the track whenever I can, 25-40 passes a year. Though I have shift points set at 6400 at WOT, I shift manually a lot on the street and do hit the limiter probably more often than I should. When I had my car tuned many moons ago we pulled some timing to keep at 485 to the wheels which we figured was a tad below 600 at the motor. Like I said I drive it like I stole it. A good tune with proper timing and safe A/F ratios you can run up to 500 to the wheels. Back in the 3-valve hey day there were plenty of us running up to 515 rwhp with good tunes. It's all in the tune. I can have a shitty tune and blow it up at 400 hp. Though these rods have a breaking point I think 450 is pretty conservative. What breaks these rods below the 500 rwhp mark is detonation and/or too much timing. Going on about 6 years of abuse with the Whipple but a couple of those years she was not may daily like she is again now.


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post #12 of 12 Old August 11th, 2017, 04:05 AM
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What breaks these rods below the 500 rwhp mark is detonation and/or too much timing.
Detonation is definitely the killer there and the commonest causes are over-advanced timing, lean air/fuel ratio, or filling up with wrong grade of fuel. Everything has to be dialed in precisely and at 500+rwhp, there's absolutely no room for error if you still have the stock rods/pistons.


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