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post #21 of 53 Old July 29th, 2010, 02:07 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 1LOUDGT View Post
So like hatch said.... did you read the codes yet?
No codes are being thrown. had the breakout box hooked up to it and nothing was wrong with it besides us finding a small vacuum leak but that didnt fix what its doing. When driving it, it'll start bucking and missing really bad until it eventually loses almost complete power and dies If you try and start it again it just turns the motor and doesnt even act like it wants to start.

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post #22 of 53 Old August 1st, 2010, 10:50 AM Thread Starter
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bump.

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post #23 of 53 Old August 1st, 2010, 12:38 PM
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Have you tried a new engine block ground?
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post #24 of 53 Old August 1st, 2010, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 93hatch View Post
they cant read obd1 codes around here

http://www.corral.net/tech/maintenan...-koeokoer.html
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so what codes is it throwing
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I posted a link on how to read your codes
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So like hatch said.... did you read the codes yet?

+1

My daily driver has 16 cylinders and 4400hp @ 1000 rpm....


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post #25 of 53 Old August 1st, 2010, 01:09 PM
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No codes are being thrown. had the breakout box hooked up to it and nothing was wrong with it besides us finding a small vacuum leak but that didnt fix what its doing. When driving it, it'll start bucking and missing really bad until it eventually loses almost complete power and dies If you try and start it again it just turns the motor and doesnt even act like it wants to start.
I'm 1loudgt btw, but the the cel doesn't have to flash to be hiding a code. When you scan there could be one lurking.
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post #26 of 53 Old August 1st, 2010, 02:33 PM
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Mine never threw a code but then again, I never tested it while hanging my ass out in the highway I was broke down on. If it was supposed to store the error, It never showed up when I got home. The only codes I had were telling me my smog stuff was gone. ORLY

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post #27 of 53 Old August 2nd, 2010, 01:04 PM Thread Starter
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Mine never threw a code but then again, I never tested it while hanging my ass out in the highway I was broke down on. If it was supposed to store the error, It never showed up when I got home. The only codes I had were telling me my smog stuff was gone. ORLY
lulz. yeah no codes besides my smog stuff being gone was thrown. no dice.

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I'm 1loudgt btw, but the the cel doesn't have to flash to be hiding a code. When you scan there could be one lurking.
Unless something else has come up that im not aware of, there's nothing in there.

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Have you tried a new engine block ground?
Ground straps are good i think.

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Last edited by 1NVERTED5.0; August 3rd, 2010 at 02:10 AM.
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post #28 of 53 Old August 2nd, 2010, 02:24 PM
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Have you tried the computer duster compressed air upside down on the ignition modual and on the pick up coil?




My car has not shit on me since I replaced the distributor. (Not just the cap and rotor but the whole thing, I know its funny but its true. Some kids will replace the cap and rotor and say they replaced the distributor)

But I always carry a can of compressed air justin case

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post #29 of 53 Old August 2nd, 2010, 02:35 PM
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How did you verify your grounds on the engine block, with a multi meter?

The only reason I ask is because chrome rust is on to something there. If you unbolt the distributer clamp and spin it (Key on, engine off) and hear the relay clicking and the fuel pump priming, it's because the electronics in the distributer get their ground from the engine block. If you turn it back and forth and you get that clicking/priming it's because you are momentarily losing contact with the engine block and the distributer loses its ground. Could be the same issue you are having except you're just losing ground to the entire block.
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post #30 of 53 Old August 3rd, 2010, 12:44 AM Thread Starter
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How did you verify your grounds on the engine block, with a multi meter?

The only reason I ask is because chrome rust is on to something there. If you unbolt the distributer clamp and spin it (Key on, engine off) and hear the relay clicking and the fuel pump priming, it's because the electronics in the distributer get their ground from the engine block. If you turn it back and forth and you get that clicking/priming it's because you are momentarily losing contact with the engine block and the distributer loses its ground. Could be the same issue you are having except you're just losing ground to the entire block.
I might have to check back into this more because the more i read this the more it sounds like it could really be those grounds. We pulled the distributor and replaced it with a new one. Still did it.

I will look into the grounds in the am and get back to you guys. Thanks!

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post #31 of 53 Old August 3rd, 2010, 01:18 AM
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test your coil, primary and secondary circuits. Sounds like the seconday gets hot and is seperating inside and causing the problems, ohm meter from one of the wire terminals and the other lead on the tower where the coil attaches, should be like 7-9k ohms, to test the primary run the ohm meter from the two wire terminals, should only be like 4-5 ohms

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post #32 of 53 Old August 3rd, 2010, 06:35 AM
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It could be a fuel pressure issue. I couldn't watch the videos because I'm at work but if it's bucking it could be a lean issue. When it dies do you still hear the fuel pump when you turn the key on?
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post #33 of 53 Old August 3rd, 2010, 12:09 PM Thread Starter
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It could be a fuel pressure issue. I couldn't watch the videos because I'm at work but if it's bucking it could be a lean issue. When it dies do you still hear the fuel pump when you turn the key on?
yes. as it ticks the fuel pump will come on and off and on again.

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post #34 of 53 Old August 10th, 2010, 06:47 AM
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Hmmm, the pump should only prime and then shut off until you start the car. If it runs more than a couple seconds you could have a computer problem. You don't run an aftermarket chip do ya? The reason I ask is because if I get a bad load on my tweecer or moates chip the fuel pump will run consistantly, kind of a giveaway that the load went bad.
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post #35 of 53 Old August 15th, 2010, 10:24 PM Thread Starter
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alright guys so half of the problem is fixed. There was an e-fan wire that was crossing over the ignition system and wiring harness that was back feeding the ignition with noise and making it misfire. Now the only problem is that after 30-40+ minutes of driving in the hot weather it will sputter/fall on its face for a split second or 2 and the rev back up and seem fine for another minute or two and do the same thing again if not die completely. It only does this when coasting in neutral at low speed (5mph and under) or idling at a dead stop. It runs flawlessly and doesnt break up at all or anything in any other conditions. The distributor, coil, and ignition switch are all new. I'm out of ideas.

Maybe fuel pump is losing pressure..?
HELP!!!!!!!!

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Last edited by 1NVERTED5.0; August 15th, 2010 at 11:19 PM.
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post #36 of 53 Old August 16th, 2010, 03:45 AM
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see post on testing coil

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post #37 of 53 Old August 16th, 2010, 05:32 AM
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alright guys so half of the problem is fixed. There was an e-fan wire that was crossing over the ignition system and wiring harness that was back feeding the ignition with noise and making it misfire. Now the only problem is that after 30-40+ minutes of driving in the hot weather it will sputter/fall on its face for a split second or 2 and the rev back up and seem fine for another minute or two and do the same thing again if not die completely. It only does this when coasting in neutral at low speed (5mph and under) or idling at a dead stop. It runs flawlessly and doesnt break up at all or anything in any other conditions. The distributor, coil, and ignition switch are all new. I'm out of ideas.

Maybe fuel pump is losing pressure..?
HELP!!!!!!!!

Have you noticed the voltage when your car starts to die? Have you done the 3g alternator swap?

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post #38 of 53 Old August 16th, 2010, 10:18 AM Thread Starter
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see post on testing coil


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Have you noticed the voltage when your car starts to die? Have you done the 3g alternator swap?
I can't say that i have.. although i do know that my voltage stays at 14 volts with the fan on and never moves more than .2 or .3 volts lower if at all when its been really hot. When its died it always has juice to start it back up. I see how it could possibly be the alternator giving out and not charging the system making it do that, but wouldnt it do that all the time? Not take 30-40+ minutes i mean..

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post #39 of 53 Old August 16th, 2010, 10:22 AM
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Not sure. There are a lot of quirks in the electrical system of these cars and the hotter it gets the more restrictive it is to pass the current. Kinda like when you heat up a magnet enough, it is no longer magnetic until it cools down.

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post #40 of 53 Old August 16th, 2010, 10:28 AM
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That ticking noise does not sound good at all. Do you know how hot your engine is because your needle looks dead.

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