help with a bucking problem thats intermittent - Forums at Modded Mustangs
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post #1 of 25 Old June 2nd, 2011, 11:09 AM Thread Starter
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help with a bucking problem thats intermittent

hey guys so i am having an issue with my car only when it gets warmed up it begins bucking and i have no power somtimes i can barley get it going and then i will hear a pop sounds like in the exhaust and it will just take off like i am used too and then it will begin again the pop comes with i have my foot half way down on the gas to try and get it going

new parts include plugs wires cap rotor coil pack distributer (the hall effect was bad so they sold me a hole new one) new fuel pump and fuel filter and i am sure their is more i am forgetting anyways it does only do it when it gets warmed up

my car is a 1994 mustang 5.0 5 speed

any help or what i could check for would help ALOT

thanks
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post #2 of 25 Old June 2nd, 2011, 04:44 PM
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Nedd a bit of information... Fuel pressure what is it? KOEO,KOER, Cylinder Balance, and KOEM tests need to be preformed so tests results can be used to give sound advice.
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post #3 of 25 Old June 2nd, 2011, 11:28 PM Thread Starter
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fuel pressure is the same as its always been accept when the fuel pump was bad right around 45 but i think the little needle on my gauge may be a little off could you explain the rest of what you said i dont really know what any of that means sorry i should say though this isnt like a little bucking this is it WONT go and then all the sudden just takes off its not like a little buck its a big one thanks man
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post #4 of 25 Old June 4th, 2011, 10:54 AM Thread Starter
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any one think it may be my cats clogging up ? the cats are stock and have 200k on them
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post #5 of 25 Old June 4th, 2011, 02:38 PM
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hey man yea it could be the cats. get some high flows anyway on there unless in your state you can get away without running at all. check some ignition sources also. i know you did the basic tune up stuff. measure out the wires coil pack all that with a meter to make sure you didnt end up with a bad coil or something. is the engine losing power or does it feel like a clutch slipping maybe?

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post #6 of 25 Old June 4th, 2011, 08:05 PM
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What the letters are is abbreviation for some tests. The tests will cover sensors and wiring that may (most likely) be the problem. Use the BB gun approach to the repair not shotgun. The benefit is money and time saved with no fustration. (Life is good again). Try... Joel 5.0... has explanation and test proceedures. PM if you need some more insight. If you are near I can show you how to test. Bubba
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post #7 of 25 Old June 4th, 2011, 11:30 PM
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Check your tps voltage. Check your timing. And check for codes. I would've said check your plugs and gap but you said there new and I'm assuming you gapped them correctly.
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post #8 of 25 Old June 6th, 2011, 12:31 AM Thread Starter
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hey guys so far what ive figured out is i dont heave that tool shops use when they drill a hole before and after the cat and measure to see if thier clogged but i heard a rattle when i hit it with a rubber hammer so i just went ahead and took them off and sure enough they are a mess with out a doubt they were clogging up and parts were broken off in each cat some worse then others so i am going to take care of this issue and hopefully that will fix it i will keep you all updated if this fixes it or not

kmedeiros88 how do you check your tps voltage alot of people have been telling me to check that too

it doesnt really feel like a slipping clutch it feels like the engine just has NO power like at all and then all of then sudden POP and it takes off

it is throwing codes i do that thing where you jump the wire and count the flashes but i am so bad at it i cant keep up or i mess up the count i just cant get it right

and thanks bubba i will check out the tests i read a few forums about them but sadly im in nj witch is pretty far from you but thanks for the offer


thanks every body
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post #9 of 25 Old June 6th, 2011, 12:14 PM
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To check your TPS voltage. Get a voltmeter with super sharp tips so you can puncture the tps wires to test. Turn the key on in your car but leave the engine off. Set your meter to DC volts and test the voltage between the green and black wire on your tps. It should read between .96 -.99. If its in that range, check that the voltage spike is a constant spike by turning the throttle to WOT. Once at WOT, you should read close to 4.5-5v. Also check the voltage between the orange and black wire, it should be close to 4.5-5v. I might have switched around the two wires because I'm going off of memory but either way the black is ground and you only have two other wires there so just test them both. If you find your TPS voltage is out of whack, post back here and we'll take it from there. Sorry if this is confusing but I can't explain it in an easier way. Also to check for codes, you have to count flashes, you know when you're doing it right because when the codes repeat themselves, you should have WRITTEN DOWN two sets of codes identical to each other. You have a 94 so I think you may have 3 digit codes. Just try it until you get it, it's not that hard. Long pause between flashes means it's spitting out a new code. Short pauses means it's just another digit. Theres a link to how to do this. Fogged306, where you at with the link. If not check out some of my threads, I think its called "New Member Needs Help Desperately" or "wiring harness". The links to testing a TPS and Codes are in one of those two threads.
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post #10 of 25 Old June 6th, 2011, 12:38 PM
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You said you got new plug wires and all. My mustang was doing the same thing. No power when you hit the throttle and idling really rough. Turned out it wasn't running on all eight cylanders. took the spark plugs and wires off and cleaned them. Put it back together and it worked fine.
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post #11 of 25 Old June 6th, 2011, 05:30 PM
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I doubt the plugs being dirty was your problem. Maybe you didn't push the boots down all the way until it clicked.
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post #12 of 25 Old June 11th, 2011, 04:51 PM Thread Starter
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hey guys i didnt forget about posting the answer (i hate when people do that) i just havent had time to work on it yet i got a cut and it got infected with staph so ive been in the hospital i should be able to work on it soon i hope thanks for all the advice guys
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post #13 of 25 Old June 19th, 2011, 01:02 PM Thread Starter
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alright guys the cats we deff clogged reallly badly the one side was completley pushed down into the second chamber i just hope not alot made it in to my flow masters anyways its still doing got the no power buck though when you romp the throttle while its running you hear a pop im wondering if the timing is off ? if i tested the tps right then its good
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post #14 of 25 Old June 19th, 2011, 03:29 PM
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As long as you are within range then the tps should be good. The timing could also cause that problem, thats an easy, free fix, so check it out.

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post #15 of 25 Old June 19th, 2011, 09:13 PM
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Bad bugs out there, hope this finds you all well. The lowly vacum gauge will point to restricted exhaust, reading will be low and steady.
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post #16 of 25 Old June 20th, 2011, 01:37 AM
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Send a message via AIM to superbean
clean your MAF with CRC Mass Air Cleaner.....

weeee foooord!

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post #17 of 25 Old June 20th, 2011, 01:52 AM
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bet the fuel filter is clogged if its never been changed.. clean the maf and airfilter while ur at it.. check the plugs and wires, and get the codes read then post them

Heres an idea.. ban the ones that are most knowlegable and helpful in the 5.0 section...oh wait lmao
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post #18 of 25 Old June 20th, 2011, 12:24 PM Thread Starter
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hey guys i tested all three wires going to the tps one of the wires stayed the same around 5 while i moved the throttle and the other moved nice and slowly with no blibs and the fuel filter is new and i am going to check my timing today but how would it randomly go out ? i mean it was running fine the few days before and i will post codes and what i find with the timing before tonight also the plugs are about 6 months old but i will pull them and check them out
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post #19 of 25 Old June 20th, 2011, 03:24 PM Thread Starter
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alright the plugs look good just a little dirty the timing is dead on now the codes im getting arent matching up to any of my issues but i will post them perhaps i should post a video of the codes you can help me figure them out and make sure i did it right

i got a bunch of ones flashing in a row
then 316 witch doesnt exist
543 - When the PCM commanded the fuel pump on, voltage was not detected on FPM

77 - Operator Error Dynamic Response Test (R)

113 - ACT Sensor Circuit Above Maximum Voltage of 4.6 volts (O), ACT circuit has intermittently failed above the maximum of 4.6 volts (M)

553 - Air management 2 circuit failure (AM1/TAD)

521 - Power steering pressure switch did not change state during KOER test
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post #20 of 25 Old June 20th, 2011, 05:17 PM Thread Starter
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I just drove it again a huge peace of crap flew out of my muffler and now its running alot better then before so im going to say the cats were to blame for most of it but now the check engine light still comes on going up hills its runs fine up the hills but it comes on and turns off when im at the top so maybe half the problem was a clogged exhaust and maybe i have another one ?

i made a video for the check engine light codes let me know what you guys think

<iframe width="560" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/MsHyNPyUzbE" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

thanks!!
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