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-   -   Just bought the nastiest block (https://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/5-0-mustangs/252121-just-bought-nastiest-block.html)

WillyT February 28th, 2012 02:50 PM

Just bought the nastiest block
 
I've ever had the pleasure of working on. 351W that will be stroked up. Don't even have a car to put it in! :facepalm:

Haven't even looked up the casting number yet. Bought it off a guy for $40. Says it can out of a late 70's or early 80's van. #5 piston melted a little, but meh. Will keep updated with pics :yes

http://amanandhisjeep.com/g/albums/u...l_DSCN1933.JPG
http://amanandhisjeep.com/g/albums/u...l_DSCN1934.JPG
http://amanandhisjeep.com/g/albums/u...l_DSCN1935.JPG
http://amanandhisjeep.com/g/albums/u...l_DSCN1936.JPG
http://amanandhisjeep.com/g/albums/u...l_DSCN1937.JPG

fogged306 February 28th, 2012 02:53 PM

Hone job and some new rings and you'll be good to go....

Ohsplat February 28th, 2012 03:41 PM

That dont need honed... Wd40 and a wire brush.

LX88 February 28th, 2012 07:44 PM

Honed and hot tanked! Definitely a great deal though.

LX88 February 28th, 2012 07:45 PM

I need to start looking for deals like this.....

FastStang91Lx February 28th, 2012 07:48 PM

Yep, you're right.... Nasty!!! lol

bigjohnstud4200 February 28th, 2012 08:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FastStang91Lx (Post 4311543)
Yep, you're right.... Nasty!!! lol

It'll buff out.

gripthenboost February 28th, 2012 09:51 PM

Getting them pistons out are going to be a bitch.

WillyT February 28th, 2012 11:20 PM

Anybody need a crank? lol. Cam had to be removed via slide hammer. Pistons and rods came out OK. The trick is to wire brush the rust and corrosion off the cylinder walls before you start hammering on them. The crank I'll probably clean up, grind, and make available for sale. It's a stripped block, ready for cleaning. I got pretty lucky, no visible cracks on the head surface. It'll clean up real sexy once a CBN bit runs over it.

It won't be hot tanked. The stuff we use won't attack corrosion this bad. It'll be baked and blasted. The caps are in the hot tank right now and will be glass beaded. Ordering a set of ARP main bolts (not studs, the extra $ for the studs isn't worth it) to check the main housing bores once the block is tumbled. I'll get some pics of the process...maybe a tech article is in the works?

Quote:

Originally Posted by LX88 (Post 4311529)
I need to start looking for deals like this.....

If you think that's a deal, you don't want to know what I paid for the Eagle crank I got :naughty:

http://amanandhisjeep.com/g/albums/u...l_DSCN1942.JPG
http://amanandhisjeep.com/g/albums/u...l_DSCN1943.JPG
http://amanandhisjeep.com/g/albums/u...l_DSCN1944.JPG
http://amanandhisjeep.com/g/albums/u...l_DSCN1947.JPG
http://amanandhisjeep.com/g/albums/u...l_DSCN1948.JPG

1993notch February 29th, 2012 12:03 AM

did someone tell them since he burned a cylender it was a boat ancor and he really did it? lol

WillyT February 29th, 2012 12:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1993notch (Post 4312377)
did someone tell them since he burned a cylender it was a boat ancor and he really did it? lol

:lmao that thought crossed my mind!

The crank:

EDIT: this used to show a picture of a cast Eagle crank. since I'm not using the crank anymore (switched to a 4340 one), it's kinda useless to change the picture because photobucket is useless.

Austin February 29th, 2012 12:41 AM

What did you pay for the crank?

WillyT February 29th, 2012 01:30 AM

$90

3valveStallion February 29th, 2012 01:50 AM

these pics are getting me excited, yeah its nasty looking but its not 40$ nasty looking, you have to expect some work, awesome job, the crank and block was steal

PerfectlyInsane February 29th, 2012 02:05 AM

feeling like a dumb *ss now, cam across an eagle crank for $50 at a swap meet

fogged306 February 29th, 2012 08:46 AM

The extra $ for studs is worth it. They have more clamping force than bolts and do a better job at preventing cap walk. Definitely well worth it on a 2 bolt block.

WillyT February 29th, 2012 10:46 AM

If I were doing a power adder...super or turbo...then I would go with studs. But it's going to be a high compression N/A, so I'm not too worried about it.

FastStang91Lx February 29th, 2012 07:29 PM

Hell, I even have my heads, intake, throttle body, and valve covers studded :lmao... If you think about the difference in clamping force as well as being coarse thread vs. fine thread, well, it's a no brainer, but each to their own. High compression is stressful too, depending on how high you are talking

WillyT February 29th, 2012 07:45 PM

The mains will be bolts, but the heads will definitely be studs.

Accessory studs look pretty sharp, especially for exterior pieces like the covers and throttle body.

9-secgt February 29th, 2012 08:36 PM

good deal for sure..post up some pics after it comes back from machine shop....and pics of engine assembly....


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