8.8 upgrades to handle future motor - Page 2 - Forums at Modded Mustangs
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post #21 of 70 Old November 18th, 2012, 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by foxfive View Post
C-clips lock the axles in place near the differential. If you look at the spline of the axle there is a groove in which the c-clip goes.
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i clamp it with my teeth and hold it in my mouth.
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post #22 of 70 Old November 18th, 2012, 10:29 PM
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yeah otherwise your axleshfts would fly out. and you wouldnt be doing much lol'ing...
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post #23 of 70 Old November 19th, 2012, 05:51 PM
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On the 9" ends... what holds the axles in if theres no C clips ?

Oh and over on fbp, didnt it turn out the flyinryan was also people champ ? I tried hanging out there but other then the first few months, it died.


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post #24 of 70 Old November 19th, 2012, 07:46 PM
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The bearing is pressed on the axle and then it's held into the end via a retainer and bolts.

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post #25 of 70 Old November 19th, 2012, 07:54 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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On the 9" ends... what holds the axles in if theres no C clips ?
unicorn poop
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post #26 of 70 Old November 20th, 2012, 07:18 PM
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makes sense about flyinryan!

Willy, where do you get unicorn poop? I'have been looking for that stuff high and low - much better than gorilla glue and jb weld.

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old 5.0's are like a box of chocolates.......... never know what your gonna get
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post #27 of 70 Old November 20th, 2012, 07:36 PM Thread Starter
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post #28 of 70 Old November 21st, 2012, 04:12 PM Thread Starter
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Any preference on carrier bearings? I'm seeing lots of ratech and motive gear.
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post #29 of 70 Old November 21st, 2012, 04:29 PM
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Just FYI, if you're not drag racing, a stock 8.8 will likely be plenty strong. It's the torque-shock of a drag-lauch that breaks things, not rolling on the throttle coming out of a corner. Now, that's not to say don't build your 8.8, but I wouldn't go crazy building a rear end that can handle >9000 lb-ft of torque for a road-race car, as you're just adding unsprung weight that you don't need.

Also, if you're not drag racing, I'd go with a Torsen T2-R, not a Detroit, definitely do whatever you need to do to eliminate the C-clips, and then spend some of that money you're talking about on a disc brake conversion (assuming you still have drums).

Function > Form, always
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post #30 of 70 Old November 21st, 2012, 05:10 PM Thread Starter
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It's going behind a 408, so I'm erring on the side of caution.

What are some advantages of a T-2 over the TruTrac? The TT was recommended by a friend of my father, who has done road racing since the 70's.

Yep, still have drums. Either Baer or Wilwood, haven't made up my mind yet. The Wilwood I can get at-cost, so that's pretty attractive.
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post #31 of 70 Old November 21st, 2012, 05:21 PM
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I'm not an expert when it comes to the differneces in the behaviors between different limited-slip differentials, but my understanding is that Detroits come on more aggressively, which can unsettle the car under hard acceleration. The R version of the Torsen T2 is what I've seen Griggs recommend and use (I believe MaxMo as well), and apparently it basically acts like a spool except in low-speed cornering situations, which makes it very predictable. Basically, instead of being open until the unit senses slip, the T2R is locked under normal conditions, and allows slip as necessary.

I'm not sure if the T2R has the fault like other torsens where if one wheel completely loses grip (i.e. in the air) they act like an open diff. I'd assume not, but I'd double check that assumption before spending a grand on a differential.

Someone with more personal experience may have more to add.

Function > Form, always
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post #32 of 70 Old February 1st, 2013, 04:26 PM Thread Starter
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Well, guess it's time to get started!


Last edited by WillyT; November 20th, 2013 at 09:09 AM. Reason: updated image link
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post #33 of 70 Old February 1st, 2013, 08:28 PM
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Muratic acid will wipe that rust away from a cheap spray bottle. Very caustic though, must be used outside or in a WELL ventilated area. Just keep hosing it down periodically. Will etch concrete too, FYI, so don't go crazy. Rinse when done and abruptly dry and coat it.

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post #34 of 70 Old February 1st, 2013, 10:15 PM Thread Starter
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I work in a machine shop with all kinds of nasty chemicals. I've probably got 13 different kinds of cancer and don't even know it. I've got plans on how to clean this sucker up

No more drum brakes! Good riddance.



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post #35 of 70 Old February 2nd, 2013, 06:43 AM
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I'm thinking about buying a spare rear. I can find them for $250 'round here. What's a good price?


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Quote:
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i clamp it with my teeth and hold it in my mouth.
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post #36 of 70 Old February 2nd, 2013, 09:08 AM Thread Starter
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Paid $100 for mine. Wasn't in the best of shape, water had gotten into it and was kind of tricky to turn at times. But meh, it's all getting thrown out anyways.

Pity you're not closer, in a few months my stock one will be available.
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post #37 of 70 Old February 28th, 2013, 06:50 PM Thread Starter
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mmmmmmmmmmmm clean!





Last edited by WillyT; November 20th, 2013 at 09:11 AM. Reason: updated image links
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post #38 of 70 Old February 28th, 2013, 07:09 PM
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Me like the shiny. When are the innards going...well, uh, in?


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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imran View Post
i clamp it with my teeth and hold it in my mouth.
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post #39 of 70 Old February 28th, 2013, 07:29 PM Thread Starter
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I have to buy them still

I've got time, the carrier still had to be welded; the ends have to be cut off and the 9" ends welded on.

And then there's April 15th that still has to happen
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post #40 of 70 Old February 28th, 2013, 07:29 PM
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Holy crap! You cleaned that up real good! When ya gonna clean mine??? Hmmm???

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Dont even know what you're talking about. But Aladdin was always the Disney character I trusted the most, so go for it.
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