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post #1 of 6 Old October 28th, 2007, 09:53 PM Thread Starter
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Another header flange question

I did not want to hijack the previous header question asked earlier today because my problem is a little different.

When taking off my H pipe, one of the studs broke off of the flange on my BBK shorty header. I have not started beating on it yet because I do not want to damage the header flange but is there a "best practice" of removing a broken stud? I do not have any threads left on it either so I can not put a nut on it to prevent the end from mushrooming while I beat on it. I've removed wheel studs before without problems but there is more room and the axle can take a little more abuse then I believe the header flange can.

My plan is to keep spraying it with WD-40 and I will try to get my Dremel in there and clean up any rust to "thin up" the remaining part of the stud then start hitting it. If that does not work, I guess I'll have to remove the header and drill it out from the other side. Anyone have a source for these studs or should I just go with stainless bolts.

A second question. Will the passenger side engine mount physically be able to be removed out the front or should I take off the starter and push it out the back?

Thanks for any advice.

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post #2 of 6 Old October 28th, 2007, 10:35 PM
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take it off before you fuc it up! the make stud removers for just that problem.
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post #3 of 6 Old October 28th, 2007, 11:18 PM Thread Starter
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All of the stud pullers I've seen are for threaded studs, these are press in friction type. Is there a remover for those?

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post #4 of 6 Old October 29th, 2007, 01:58 AM
 
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Another header flange question

yeah they make pullers for that. When i worked at my dads machine shop he had one for pulling the pressed in studs out of small block chevy heads so we could put screw in studs in.
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post #5 of 6 Old October 29th, 2007, 08:03 PM
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Tac weld a big skrewdriver to it.

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post #6 of 6 Old October 29th, 2007, 10:36 PM Thread Starter
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I called BBK and got a part number for a stud kit and also was told that they are screw in studs, not press in. That takes away the thought of beating them out and if I drill them, using another stud is not an option unless I happen to drill perfectly straight and avoid all of the socket threads.
I'm going to use a stud extrator on the broken one first and if it seems easy enough, I may or may not try it on the non broken studs as well in an attempt to replace them all. It is a gamble though as my stud extractor is thread destructive and once I put it on one of the non broken studs, there is no turning back.
I'm doing everything I can to avoid taking the headers off and since they are in good shape, I do not want to damage them either.

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