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post #1 of 104 Old January 12th, 2015, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
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Fox body build

This has been an on going build for roughly 2 years, I'm finally getting a little more into it now . I've had this thread going on Pro-Touring.com, but I'm going to transfer it over here. I've been developing new suspension, here at work, so it's been torn apart for a while. I've got alot more to put on here, I just don't have pictures yet.... So, here it goes...

I picked up a 93 LX hatch about a year and a half ago to have a little fun with and slowly build over time. The main goal for the car was building a fun daily driver...obviously, that hasn't worked out to well just yet. I picked up the car, thinking that all it needed was a clutch. Bored .030 stock block, DSS rotating assembly, Edelbrock heads, Anderson cam, Edelbrock intake...It sounded decent idling, although I couldn't drive it with the clutch messed up, I couldn't pass up the deal. It's one of the cleanest foxes that I've ever seen, complaining really isn't an option for what I paid for it! Now, I'm leaning more towards a Pro-Touring build style with the intent to build a badass street/autocross car.



As soon as I got home, I started tearing into it, seeing what all needed to be done/changed/updated. Typical fixes and issues, starter hanging up, exhaust leaks, finding wiring goblins, etc.

I did all of what I could while waiting on the pieces for the clutch to come in, so I started doing typical maintenance things while waiting....and then my first issue pops up. I'm going through, changing the spark plugs, and then I get to the last one. The only one out of the 8, that isn't angled, it's sticking straight out of the head. Awesome. I ended up pulling the heads off and taking them to a buddy who owns a machine shop, get everything fixed up, and had them gone through just for an extra piece of mind.



---------- Post added at 01:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:43 PM ----------

About a week later, it's back together and I think I'm good to go!



After everything for the clutch arrives, I decide to go ahead and drain the fluid from the trans before I pull it out. It was at that time that I realized, I had more than just a clutch issue. It wasn't just metallic fluid. It was metallic fluid, with chunks of pieces. It's a good think that T5 rebuild kits aren't too expensive... Everything was going from "too good to be true" to "I'm ready for this thing to catch on fire" extremely fast. While my transmission was being gone through, I converted the car over to 5 lug and threw on a set of Racestar's that I had from a previous car on it. Not the style that I was going for, I just had them sitting there until I could find a 18" set of wheels that I wanted to spend some money on. They looked kind of cool for a while! Finally, I had the car to where I could at least drive it. It ran, shifted, and didn't blow up (yet).




It's been doing good so far. At the moment, I've got quite a few more pictures to post and information to update on the car, but it's got several irons in the fire as we speak! This is how it was sitting a week ago but things have changed.... I'll post that update as soon as I get the pictures on my computer! These pictures were before all of the fun things started :cheers:.

---------- Post added at 01:44 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:43 PM ----------

The last week has made several changes in the car :bananna2:

This is what she came in here like!



We've been developing our new suspension for these cars, so the guys have everything mocked up and ready to go!

I'm going with our new coilover setup, in the front and rear. The struts in the front, are our monotbube, Fox Racing shocks, with our billet mounts. Just a nice, clean piece. I'm digging the new caster plates that we're running up top!





On the rear, we've built a new shock bracket to help push the shock out for added clearance for the Shockaves/coil springs. It utilizes the factory upper mounts with new, delrin bushings that make the ride alot more comfortable/quiet to deal with.



(The Shockwaves were also put into place for test fitment)




At the moment, it's sitting just like this :cheers:




---------- Post added at 01:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:44 PM ----------

My new clutch and clutch cable came in :headbang:

We stayed after work last night, threw it in, what a difference..... McLeod makes a very nice product! I drove it home last night and back to work this morning, I don't even know how to describe having the new clutch and suspension on the car, but I'm still smiling :twothumbs.





---------- Post added at 01:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:45 PM ----------

We've got everything 100% done on the suspension... and I finally put my hood back on




and then this happened today....


2003 TR Mach 1 - Sold!

1993 LX Hatch - 331, AFR 195, Comp XE282HR, Holley Systemax, TKO 600, Ridetech Coilovers, Baer brakes, and alot more...budget build
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post #2 of 104 Old January 12th, 2015, 02:42 PM
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Looks good! Good luck with the rest of the build. How many cubic inches in the new engine?

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post #3 of 104 Old January 12th, 2015, 02:54 PM
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In the 'we made', how is 'we'? Nice project. WTF are those pistons? Scat makes great rods and cranks. Love the race stars the 18's look good too.

92 coupe, pictured^, coyote power with turbo.
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post #4 of 104 Old January 12th, 2015, 03:10 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by horsepowerjunkie View Post
Looks good! Good luck with the rest of the build. How many cubic inches in the new engine?
Thanks alot! It's just a 331 build, I've got a set of AFR 195's coming in this week, and more than likely going to putting around 5-6lbs of boost to it .
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In the 'we made', how is 'we'? Nice project. WTF are those pistons? Scat makes great rods and cranks. Love the race stars the 18's look good too.
I work for Ridetech (Air Ride Technologies), we're developing all of our new suspensions on my cars. I'm not a vendor on this forum (just a long time member ), so I have more information on those on other forums. I'm running our new coilovers though, I'm going for more of an autocross build!

I'm very happy with the Scat components, I just got everything balanced and the bottom end is done! I've still got the Race Stars but I'm sticking with the FR's for the road courses/parking lots .

2003 TR Mach 1 - Sold!

1993 LX Hatch - 331, AFR 195, Comp XE282HR, Holley Systemax, TKO 600, Ridetech Coilovers, Baer brakes, and alot more...budget build
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post #5 of 104 Old January 15th, 2015, 11:58 AM Thread Starter
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Today's work...



I really need to get some pictures of the new engine setup on here..

2003 TR Mach 1 - Sold!

1993 LX Hatch - 331, AFR 195, Comp XE282HR, Holley Systemax, TKO 600, Ridetech Coilovers, Baer brakes, and alot more...budget build
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post #6 of 104 Old January 15th, 2015, 12:39 PM
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The upper strut mounts are good in the sense that they use a spherical bearing and allow the strut to pivot without binding. It looks like they are substancial enough to support the load of the coil over conversion too. But, it doesn't look like they offer any camber adjustment beyond the factory mounts and zero caster? If "improved" handling is part of the goal then a wider adjustment range is absolutely necessary.

The design of the rear control arms is the last thing you want to use for an "autocross" car. They make an already bad binding situation (inherent in the converging 4-link design) infinitely worse. The reason the factory arms are channel steel with soft rubber bushings (and big oval front/lower) is so the axle has half a chance of articulating. Using lower arms made of thick wall rectangle or round tubular steel with non-compliant urethane bushings is going to result in snap-oversteer during hard cornering. Adding rigid upper arms makes it even worse. If "handling" is your goal you'd be better off leaving the factory arms until a properly designed 3-link could be afforded and installed.
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post #7 of 104 Old January 15th, 2015, 12:42 PM
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Well then get with me on this stuff. I wouldn't mind adding that to the list of manufacturers/products I offer and install.

---------- Post added at 12:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:40 PM ----------

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The upper strut mounts are good in the sense that they use a spherical bearing and allow the strut to pivot without binding. It looks like they are substancial enough to support the load of the coil over conversion too. But, it doesn't look like they offer any camber adjustment beyond the factory mounts and zero caster? If "improved" handling is part of the goal then a wider adjustment range is absolutely necessary.

The design of the rear control arms is the last thing you want to use for an "autocross" car. They make an already bad binding situation (inherent in the converging 4-link design) infinitely worse. The reason the factory arms are channel steel with soft rubber bushings (and big oval front/lower) is so the axle has half a chance of articulating. Using lower arms made of thick wall rectangle or round tubular steel with non-compliant urethane bushings is going to result in snap-oversteer during hard cornering. Adding rigid upper arms makes it even worse. If "handling" is your goal you'd be better off leaving the factory arms until a properly designed 3-link could be afforded and installed.
Word, or spherical lowers and spherical uppers. MM sells both the spherical stuff and the 3 link as well.

92 coupe, pictured^, coyote power with turbo.
93 coupe, 2.3 turbo 5spd
93 calypso no option coupe, 94 GT, 90 Coupe, 82 coupe, 12 5.0 6spd, 14 gthig gt auto.
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post #8 of 104 Old January 15th, 2015, 01:06 PM
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Word, or spherical lowers and spherical uppers. MM sells both the spherical stuff and the 3 link as well.
Even spherical rod ends at each end of all 4 arms doesn't allow for enough axle articulation when the upper arms are still in place because the rod ends are limited in movement as to what it is actually needed. Simply put, the only way to avoid binding and snap oversteer when rigid arms are used is to install a freely articulating suspension system, such as a 3-link (torque arm, panhard or watts, lower arms only.)

Speaking off MM, on their website they have a complete bind study of the Fox rear suspension with different combinations of control arms, panhard, torque arm. Short of going to a the 3-link design, the next best scenario was using all factory arms with factory rubber bushings and a panhard bar. That is the setup I used on my '88 Coupe during my years of open-track events and it performed very well. At one point a friend gave me a set of like-new MM lower arms. Being that they were free I decided to install them and give them a try. Pushing the car HARD, they definitely had a negative impact on the cars corner capability and handling characteristics. At the limit of a hard corner it was not as well planted and felt like the ass end wanted to slide. I knew ahead of time that was probably going to be the case but wanted to confirm it through actual experience. At my earliest convenience I removed the MM arms and re-installed the factory arms. Problem solved. Since that experience I would not recommend anyone looking to improve the cornering capability of their Fox car change to rigid lower arms unless they will be also changing to a 3-link design.

Rigid lower arms work great in a straight line, though!
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post #9 of 104 Old January 15th, 2015, 01:08 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADL View Post
The upper strut mounts are good in the sense that they use a spherical bearing and allow the strut to pivot without binding. It looks like they are substancial enough to support the load of the coil over conversion too. But, it doesn't look like they offer any camber adjustment beyond the factory mounts and zero caster? If "improved" handling is part of the goal then a wider adjustment range is absolutely necessary.

The design of the rear control arms is the last thing you want to use for an "autocross" car. They make an already bad binding situation (inherent in the converging 4-link design) infinitely worse. The reason the factory arms are channel steel with soft rubber bushings (and big oval front/lower) is so the axle has half a chance of articulating. Using lower arms made of thick wall rectangle or round tubular steel with non-compliant urethane bushings is going to result in snap-oversteer during hard cornering. Adding rigid upper arms makes it even worse. If "handling" is your goal you'd be better off leaving the factory arms until a properly designed 3-link could be afforded and installed.
The upper mounts aren't staying, I've got a different design that I'm going with. These were our prototype ones, the caster adjustment in the strut was good with these, but the new mounts offer a huge amount of adjustment. The camber is all in the strut extrusion mount.

The car handles like a slot car right now. However, I do agree with a 3-link, but the idea of this kit is "making bolt on system for the general public."

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Well then get with me on this stuff. I wouldn't mind adding that to the list of manufacturers/products I offer and install.

---------- Post added at 12:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:40 PM ----------



Word, or spherical lowers and spherical uppers. MM sells both the spherical stuff and the 3 link as well.
I'll PM you.

2003 TR Mach 1 - Sold!

1993 LX Hatch - 331, AFR 195, Comp XE282HR, Holley Systemax, TKO 600, Ridetech Coilovers, Baer brakes, and alot more...budget build
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post #10 of 104 Old January 15th, 2015, 01:11 PM
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The design of the rear control arms is the last thing you want to use for an "autocross" car.


what he said

keep factory upper control arms in with fresh rubber, MM LCA's go get a panhard bar, and eventually a Torque arm.
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post #11 of 104 Old January 15th, 2015, 01:37 PM Thread Starter
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I won't go into detail because I'm not setup as a vendor on here but we use alot of those style bars in our four link kits (muscle cars/late model cars), the results that they have on the autocross are phenomenal. I know I could surprise you all .

Edit: One thing your not seeing, is how that spherical rod end articulates (I believe I read that somewhere above). There are spacers that go into the bearing.

2003 TR Mach 1 - Sold!

1993 LX Hatch - 331, AFR 195, Comp XE282HR, Holley Systemax, TKO 600, Ridetech Coilovers, Baer brakes, and alot more...budget build
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post #12 of 104 Old January 23rd, 2015, 08:44 PM
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post #13 of 104 Old January 26th, 2015, 10:27 AM
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Interesting build! Car looks good & I'm interested in what you end up developing..... Amazing that companies are still developing parts for 22-31 year old Foxbodies....

Now a 48 year old bachelor with no common sense.... Occasionally racing his daily 12 second commuter up here in Utah...:
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post #14 of 104 Old January 26th, 2015, 01:26 PM
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by the way if you need a test mule for a foxbody for a RideTech setup. I'm your man. =)




Quote:
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Foxbodies > all


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post #15 of 104 Old January 26th, 2015, 01:39 PM Thread Starter
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Interesting build! Car looks good & I'm interested in what you end up developing..... Amazing that companies are still developing parts for 22-31 year old Foxbodies....
Haha, I had to do some convincing to get all of the guys on board. These cars are a blast and there's a good market for them. I'm extremely excited to get these parts going. I'm more excited to hear this new engine run...
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by the way if you need a test mule for a foxbody for a RideTech setup. I'm your man. =)
Haha, I think I may have been the main test mule! My car was in pieces for a few weeks but you never know!

---------- Post added at 01:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:38 PM ----------

and then today happened....

It was extremely hard not to hug the UPS guy today! Now I'm just waiting on some rockers, lifters, pushrods, etc... and I'll be back in build mode!


2003 TR Mach 1 - Sold!

1993 LX Hatch - 331, AFR 195, Comp XE282HR, Holley Systemax, TKO 600, Ridetech Coilovers, Baer brakes, and alot more...budget build
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post #16 of 104 Old January 26th, 2015, 02:40 PM
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I really like the looks of those Fr500 wheels on the Fox so much better than the 5 spokes in my opinion .
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post #17 of 104 Old January 26th, 2015, 05:46 PM Thread Starter
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I really like the looks of those Fr500 wheels on the Fox so much better than the 5 spokes in my opinion .
Thanks! I agree, the 5 spoke look is wearing me out, I wanted something different. I'm probably going to end up changing them out but I'm happy with how it looks now .

2003 TR Mach 1 - Sold!

1993 LX Hatch - 331, AFR 195, Comp XE282HR, Holley Systemax, TKO 600, Ridetech Coilovers, Baer brakes, and alot more...budget build
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post #18 of 104 Old January 27th, 2015, 12:21 PM
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I really like it I would say keep it , but there are so many options for them .

I agree the 5 spoke look is just wearing me out every mustang has a set of 5 spokes on it especially the Fox Bodies .

I saw a 1993 Fox body with a set of these wheels on it and loved the look . The car was matte black with matte gun metal stripes and the wheels were antracite .

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post #19 of 104 Old January 27th, 2015, 01:28 PM Thread Starter
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I really like it I would say keep it , but there are so many options for them .

I agree the 5 spoke look is just wearing me out every mustang has a set of 5 spokes on it especially the Fox Bodies .

I saw a 1993 Fox body with a set of these wheels on it and loved the look . The car was matte black with matte gun metal stripes and the wheels were antracite .

I thought about those actually, I like them alot! I like seeing something different, not the 95 Cobra R wheels

2003 TR Mach 1 - Sold!

1993 LX Hatch - 331, AFR 195, Comp XE282HR, Holley Systemax, TKO 600, Ridetech Coilovers, Baer brakes, and alot more...budget build
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post #20 of 104 Old January 31st, 2015, 06:48 PM
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Those are some sexy wheels

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