New Mustang Owner Here...Injectors? Dyno Tune? - Page 2 - Forums at Modded Mustangs
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post #21 of 51 Old July 30th, 2015, 03:36 PM Thread Starter
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How hard is it to replace the fuel injectors?
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post #22 of 51 Old July 30th, 2015, 08:15 PM
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Pretty easy. Pull the upper intake, loosen the fuel rail bolts, remove the fuel rail, then pop out the injectors. Put in the new injectors and reverse the process.
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post #23 of 51 Old July 31st, 2015, 09:35 AM
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I would go at least 24 lbs injectors with your set up. I would also look into a ProM mass air meter. They have been around since the get go and have tons of experience in the 5.0 game. If you have a 5-speed I'd say at least 300rwhp.
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post #24 of 51 Old July 31st, 2015, 03:14 PM Thread Starter
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Ford Racing 24lb injectors + Pro-M 75MM MAF sound like a winner

---------- Post added at 07:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:13 PM ----------

Are 24lb injectors ok to run with the stock fuel pump? I hate to have to drop the fuel tank, I heard it is a major PITA
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post #25 of 51 Old July 31st, 2015, 05:41 PM
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With your engine mods, no way you should be running a stock fuel pump. I'd say 190lph minimum.

Quote:
Originally Posted by calister622 View Post
Ford Racing 24lb injectors + Pro-M 75MM MAF sound like a winner

---------- Post added at 07:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:13 PM ----------

Are 24lb injectors ok to run with the stock fuel pump? I hate to have to drop the fuel tank, I heard it is a major PITA

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post #26 of 51 Old July 31st, 2015, 09:35 PM
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If your ecm has a chip in it to compensate for the pink injectors, you can run them without issue.If your ecm doesn't have a chip,the use of a pink injector (21.5lb)will cause your engine to run rich and this could very well be what's causing your driveability problem.Its most likely loading up on fuel,especially since you're running a stock MAF & the amount of air entering the engine isn't matching up with the amount of fuel that's entering it.
(Short Story)
I helped a buddy of mine with a 02 GT swap his motor for a complete 04 throttle body to oil pan crate engine. The original 02 came with orange tops and the 04 with pink tops. Thinking nothing of it,he used the pinks that were already on the 04 engine. Upon first startup he noticed the car didnt start the way it had with the original engine. It cranked longer before it fired and when idling he could tell something was not quite right. Throttle response was hesitant,but there were no computer codes or SES light.He drove it with those pinks in there for a while and noticed also that the gas mileage was worse than before.He also noticed black smoke upon full throttle. These are all symptoms of the engine running rich.The use of these injectors also didn't cause any trouble codes or mil lights to come on,which he found to be surprising.If I was you,I would remove the passenger side kick panel to check the ecm for a chip.If one doesn't exist,buy some 19lb injectors to match your current MAF sensor & your issue should clear up.Any 96-2001 Explorer has 19lb injectors with the 4 hole spray pattern on bottom(better than a Mustang injector) You can find them at the pull-a-part junkyards all day long,but make sure you do a thorough cleaning process since injectors can gum up when theyre not used.The process is shown in the link below.
http://web.archive.org/web/201312291...tion.com/?p=82

If you're planning to upgrade to a larger injector, you can snag some 24lb injectors off of the vehicles shown below then buy a 76mm C&L maf or Pro-M 75 or 80mm MAF calibrated for 24lb injectors & you're ready to go.Some guys don't like the C&L meter,but I've had success with the 76mm in the past.If you're not planning on building a stroker motor,supercharging or nitrous,a 24lb injector is good up to 375hp & you're not gonna get close to that number unless you add one of the components I listed above.A MAF sensor, 24lb injector & 155-190lph fuel pump will be plenty for what you've got and then some.
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post #27 of 51 Old July 31st, 2015, 09:47 PM
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Dropping the tank is no big issue.
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post #28 of 51 Old August 3rd, 2015, 09:42 AM
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If I were in your shoes, knowing what I know now...

I wouldn't mess with a 190lph pump. The 255lph can be had for the same price ( Mustang Fuel Pumps | AmericanMuscle.com - Free Shipping ), and you won't have to drop the tank again later if you need more capacity.

Stick with ProM. C&L uses some trickery to get close to accurate signals. Sometimes its 'close enough' sometimes it isn't. The extra $$$ for a good MAF will pay off.

None of the stuff mentioned in this thread will require a custom tune, it won't be worth the money if you stick with a good MAF/injector setup.

Before spending anything, pull your ecu, check the catch code (A9L, A9P, X3Z, etc), and verify it doesn't already have a chip.

Have you pulled your diagnostic codes? I suggest you do, and get good at it.
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post #29 of 51 Old August 3rd, 2015, 03:14 PM Thread Starter
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Ok so heres the update guys: I pulled the MAF off and it is 73mm. It did not have a brand on it so I cleaned the MAF sensor and installed it back on. After the air filter had been cleaned as much as I could I reset the coputer and it ran so much more powerful. I then replaced the fuel filter which was so clogged I couldnt even blow thought it. I took a air compressor and brown goo/mud come out of it. So after replaced the fuel filter and cleaning the maf and air filter an resetting the computer the whole car feels like a totally diferent beast. It pulls extremely hard and has the power I have been looking for. I ordered a new BBK air filter so after replacing that it should have even a little better pickup.

---------- Post added at 07:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:12 PM ----------

I even added a bottle of Lucas injector cleaner when I just went to fill it up with 93 octane
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post #30 of 51 Old August 4th, 2015, 09:48 AM Thread Starter
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Next on the list is going to get it dyno tuned. My local tuner wants $400 to tune it so I thought that was a really good price. I am going to put in a fresh set of plugs in it. Anyone recommended plugs? The guy I bought it from put in Autolite 3924. What should I gap them to?
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post #31 of 51 Old August 6th, 2015, 03:20 PM Thread Starter
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My sisters friend just opened up his own dyno tuning shop here in Charleston and he said he charges $275 for N/A motors but will work with me on price so I am hoping he will tune it for $200. Also I want to install 4.10 gears along with an aluminum driveshaft and said he would install the shaft for $80. He also said he can calibrate my stock sensor for the 21.5lb injectors that I am running now. Sad thing is he is booked until end of September
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post #32 of 51 Old August 6th, 2015, 06:00 PM
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Install your own shaft paying somebody $80 is a waste of money it is easy.
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post #33 of 51 Old August 6th, 2015, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
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Its gonna be a package deal. Dyno tune, aluminum shaft, and 4.10 gears.

Anyone know the cheapest place to get the shaft? AmericanMuscle wants like $310

---------- Post added at 11:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:45 PM ----------

Also what should I gap my Autolite 3924 plugs too?
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post #34 of 51 Old August 9th, 2015, 03:06 PM Thread Starter
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Anyone know what I should gap my Autolite 3924 plugs too?

Also whats the typical charge to install 4.10 gears?
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post #35 of 51 Old August 9th, 2015, 07:59 PM
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Virtually a Ford Racing driveshaft in a Summit box. My buddy bought one and its identical to my Ford Racing one.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su.../model/mustang

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post #36 of 51 Old August 10th, 2015, 10:47 AM Thread Starter
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When I order the 4.10 gears do I just need to order the gears themselves for $144.99 or the kit with gaskets, seals, gear oil and etc ofor like $240?
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post #37 of 51 Old August 10th, 2015, 08:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by calister622 View Post
When I order the 4.10 gears do I just need to order the gears themselves for $144.99 or the kit with gaskets, seals, gear oil and etc ofor like $240?
Why do you need 4.10's? Is the car a automatic?

Also you will need the kit
in order too change gears you need too pull the diff cover. And pull axles. Since you're pulling the axles you mines well replace those bearings and axle seals. You may be able too get away with not changing the carrier bearings but if that kit comes with them change them.

Have you ever put gears in a car before? If not I'd also suggest having a professional do them. As there are certain requirements for spacing.

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post #38 of 51 Old August 11th, 2015, 01:39 PM Thread Starter
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I am not sure what gears are in my car as of right now. I am gonna do the "spin the tire, count the rotation" trick to see what I have. If I have 3.73's then I will just keep them but if not then I am going to get 4.10's. I am having a performance shop install them for me as a package deal. Getting a dyno tune, aluminum DS and 4.10's installed and a short shifter. Any recommendations on a short shifter?

Would this be the kit I need to order?

Ford Racing 4.10 Mustang Gears and Install Kit 100577 (86-09 V8) - Free Shipping
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post #39 of 51 Old August 11th, 2015, 01:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by calister622 View Post
I am not sure what gears are in my car as of right now. I am gonna do the "spin the tire, count the rotation" trick to see what I have. If I have 3.73's then I will just keep them but if not then I am going to get 4.10's. I am having a performance shop install them for me as a package deal. Getting a dyno tune, aluminum DS and 4.10's installed and a short shifter. Any recommendations on a short shifter?

Would this be the kit I need to order?

Ford Racing 4.10 Mustang Gears and Install Kit 100577 (86-09 V8) - Free Shipping
Yes. But check too see what you have first.

Also check out http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...Shifter-T5-T45

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post #40 of 51 Old August 13th, 2015, 10:24 AM Thread Starter
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Now I think I have some sort of vacuum problem. I noticed a cpl days ago after a short test drive that a vacuum hose was unplugged that plugs into some round metal piece behind the throttle body. On this diagram Fox Body Mustang Engine Compartment Identification | Mustang Tech Articles | CJ Pony Parts I believe it is #47 Fuel Pressure Regulator - Uses intake manifold vacuum to lower the fuel rail pressure during low rpm operation or it is #49 EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid - Controls the vacuum which opens the EGR valve.

Before I hooked the hose back in the car idled perfect between 800-900 rpm but now it idles at like 1400-1600 rpm. Would this cause this to do this? Also the car seemed to have a lot less power now after this has happened.

Sorry guys but I am brand new to mustangs and this is the first one I have ever owned. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

P.S I also forgot to mention, the guy I bought the car from owns a mustang performance shop and did a full tune up on the car and got it running good after the owner sold it to him for dirt cheap because it had some electrical issues that he fixed. So maybe I am thinking that he had it unplugged for a reason. I also took the IAC off and cleaned that really good with throttle body cleaner so I can rule that out.
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