I'm not sure what kind of budget you're working with here, so I'll give you a quick rundown of what can be done:
You'll have to have the cylinders honed, of course. The machine shop will have to tell you if you can stay standard or if you need to go to an oversize. If you have to go to an oversized piston, select the smallest first oversize so you have plenty of room left to grow. I think Mahle might have a .020" over, and you can have a selection of compression ratios to choose from. A company like SpeedPro might even have .010" overs, but I'm not sure about that.
If you're keeping it mostly stock, you won't need H beam rods. Some regular steel I beams will work, and probably use the ARP 8740 bolts, which for an N/A application, will work just fine. Looking back at your first post, those rods look correct.
If you're going with either ARP main bolts or ARP main studs, this would be a good time to have the block align honed. It might have to be align-honed, regardless, with the new hardware.
With new rods comes a re-balance of the rotating assembly. I know I mentioned that already, but if they don't bring it up, ask. It's not optional if the rod weights are different.
New brass freeze plugs. New cam bearings.
The usual stuff, I guess.
ok, thanks... I will ask... so that's why he said might be better to get some new eagle rods then...
yeah, I plan on just getting the ARP main bolts...
I would love to get by without boring it, but with 165K on the clock, I'm sure it has to be real close to be out of tolerance... so I will ask what is the least they can bore... (if I can go lower then .30 then that would be great...
also, the link I sent for the rods, I notice now, it's "Bushed" floating wrist pin... then there is another set that is press fit... so which would be correct for the 5.0?
---------- Post added at 11:36 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:32 AM ----------
Yeah they're machining the rod,but its not for the actual bolts,its for the big end of the rod that gets distorted during bolt installation.
If you reuse the stock rods,the stock rod bolts have to be removed,the ARP rod bolts have to be pressed in & the big end of the rod will have to be resized.When the bolts are pressed in,it distorts the rod plus the big end of the rod tends to get "egg shaped" after years of use,so they resize the rod & rod cap so theyre perfectly round again.
ahhh ok, thanks, that makes a lot more sense now.. lol