fpdm/fuel pump wiring upgrade - Forums at Modded Mustangs
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post #1 of 59 Old February 11th, 2009, 06:25 AM Thread Starter
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fpdm wiring upgrade

i did a wiring up grade on my car and these are the steps i took:

went to parts store and picked up 25ft of 10 gauge wire (i've heard some people using 8ga wire), universal relay, 30A inline fuse fitting, t-fittings, and package of misc electrical fittings.

disconnect negative off battery

solder the inline fuse to one end of the 10ga wire, this will be the end that will be hooked to 12+ scource


run the 10ga wire thru thru the engine compartment, thru the wire groment on drivers side firewall.


i already had my interior out, but you will atleast need to pull up the carpet on the drivers side. route the wire under the carpet to the back. i ran mine with the factory wiring under the carpet to keep secure and clean.





find a place you want to mount your relay to, i mounted mine on the bracket that holds fpdm.


the power wire that was ran to the back will be connected to pin 30 on the realy. after you find where you want to mount the relay, cut the power wire to length needed.

pull harness off the fpdm, and cut the tape back off the factory wire harness to expose all the wires to the connector. cut the pink/black trace wire, be sure to leave enough wire to put a connector on!


the pink/black wire that comes off the fpdm connector will need to be lengthed and connected to pin 87 on the relay. the wire that runs in the harness will need to be lengthened and be connected to pin 86.


now this is the part that can get exciting. the tank will need to be lowered enough to get to the wiring on the fuel pump hat.

the extra wire that was was cut off from the power wire will be used to run from the fpdm harness to fuel pump hat. run the wire down to the tank so it will reach the fuel pump hat. i routed the wire down thru the grommet directly below the inertia switch.


locate the brown/pink wire on the fuel pump hat and tap into it with either a t fitting or a quick splice. connect the wire you ran down to the tank to this wire. be sure that the wire is tucked up safely and wont be getting pinched or cut.



you can mount the tank back up and pull the extra length of wire up to get out the slack. connect that wire to the brown/pink wire on the fpdm harness.

pin 85 will need to be grounded with same gauge wire that the power wire is. i used the same ground that the fpdm was using.

zip tie everything up, clean up, and put interior back together.




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Last edited by SWEET2KSTANG; February 11th, 2009 at 06:32 AM.
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post #2 of 59 Old February 11th, 2009, 06:26 AM Thread Starter
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connect the power wire to the side of the fuse block that the battery + wire goes to. install fuse and hook battery back up.





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post #3 of 59 Old February 11th, 2009, 06:36 AM
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Damn nice write up Sweet! How long did this take you to do?

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post #4 of 59 Old February 11th, 2009, 06:42 AM Thread Starter
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i was changing my fuel pump, and detailing my interior the same night. i think without taking the interior completely out, this could be done in about 2-3hrs depending how familiar you are with droping the tank.



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post #5 of 59 Old February 11th, 2009, 06:58 AM
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very nice writup Mike



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post #6 of 59 Old February 11th, 2009, 10:16 AM
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dumb question, but what does this do? just give a few more amps and true 13.5 volts from th alt to the pump rather than run its power through the cars wiring harness?



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post #7 of 59 Old February 11th, 2009, 10:21 AM
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yeah, free's up a few % duty cycle. Its not much but every little bit helps! Although this is generally done with a BAP. I don't see it in these pics.

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post #8 of 59 Old February 11th, 2009, 11:58 AM
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Nice write up! I would love it if you could cut and past it onto the DIY section of my forums. The "How to" section for the DIY guys - Trick Tuners Forums If you are too lazy to register and will allow me to copy and paste i can do that too. rep'd
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post #9 of 59 Old February 11th, 2009, 03:43 PM Thread Starter
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will do.



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post #10 of 59 Old March 15th, 2010, 01:30 PM
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Update the pics...!

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post #11 of 59 Old March 15th, 2010, 08:19 PM Thread Starter
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update the pics? not enough or you need more? my fuel system has been thru another make over so its not the same as it was then.



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post #12 of 59 Old March 15th, 2010, 10:03 PM
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Would anything be done differently if you were using a KB Boost-A-Pump?
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post #13 of 59 Old March 16th, 2010, 12:36 AM Thread Starter
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i believe all you will have to do is instead of cutting the wire to go to the relay, connect it to BAP. the wire from the BAP will go to the relay on pin 87 and the other end will still be on pin 86.



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post #14 of 59 Old March 16th, 2010, 12:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SWEET2KSTANG View Post
update the pics? not enough or you need more? my fuel system has been thru another make over so its not the same as it was then.
Your Photobucket picture links are expired...

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post #15 of 59 Old October 31st, 2010, 10:06 AM
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I see that the larger wire was put together above the hat. Doesnt that just bottle neck the power that goes to the pump. Same thing to the FPDM. I dont see how its helping if you still have the stock smaller wire going to the pump or FPDM. That smaller wire can only run so much through it. On the GT pumps, couldnt you just finish running the wire through the hat down to the pumps with the spade connector on the end? Would that make it a little better?


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post #16 of 59 Old October 31st, 2010, 10:57 AM
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Post from an electical engineer guy or something...

A bottle neck is a bottle neck. if the wire guage at the input or output wire is smaller, then that said wire becomes the weak link, possibly weaker than the fuse you install at the beginning of the circuit and therefore the short piece of wire would melt first before the fuse would blow (in theory) I really think this upgrade is pointless unless you "upgrade" all the wire. Amperage is the "number" of electrons the more electrons that can fit the more work that can be done a bottle neck by use of small guage wire will not allow anymore electrons through than it can support, and is useless. Has anyone actually proven that this upgrade works? We were getting ready to do this to a friend of mines 4v car and after I saw what everyone is doing by way of splicing into the existing wire I wasn't interested. I guess thats why this kit is designed for the BAP because it provides the same size wire all the way to the BAP and is a good install for it. To me it is junk for the fpdm if you are leaving existing wire in place..
just my 2 cents.
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post #17 of 59 Old October 31st, 2010, 11:22 AM
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I used 1/2" of solid 12g wiring and replaced the 16g inside all of the pins. Actually radio shack has replacement pins and thats what I used instead of reusing the stock ones.

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post #18 of 59 Old October 31st, 2010, 11:55 AM
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In this pic, the pink and black wires could be drilled out of the hat and just continue the larger wire into the hat and put a spade connector on it, onto the pump.Then just silicone around the SMALL holes where your wire went through. Seems like a better deal to me than just cutting the wire above the hat.



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post #19 of 59 Old October 31st, 2010, 11:57 AM
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I ran 12 guage from the fpdm to the pumps by making my own pass thru connections at hat. just have to make sure they are leak free(both fuel and air) or you will get evap codes. with a bap prefpdm that will raise the power handling capabilities of the fpdm by raising voltage which allows a lower current for the same amount of work.

kinda of like a high power transmission line, it carries 750,000v but only 3a thats why they get away with a wire about an inch thick to power a city

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post #20 of 59 Old October 31st, 2010, 11:57 AM
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And there has to be a way to go straight into the FPDM plug/pin with larger wire too. I might tear all my stuff down next weekend or so and figure it all out.


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