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post #1 of 118 Old October 5th, 2009, 10:36 AM Thread Starter
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manual swap how to

this is a write up for guys that want to know what it takes to do a manual swap.

the swap itself isnt all that bad.

parts needed:

interior:
shifter
manual pedal set
clutch cable, quadrant, firewall adjuster
manual shifter bezel
shifter base insulator
shifter handle

parts:
engine seperator plate
pilot bearing
clutch kit
flywheel
flywheel bolts
pressure plate bolts (10.5 and 11in kits are different size bolts)
trans
trans fluid
trans sensors (if not with trans, manual and auto trans sensors are different)
shift fork (if not with trans)
x-member if going t56
manual trans wiring harness
driveshaft (or change to a manual yoke)

things you will have to modify:

wire harness for trans (if you use stock auto main harness)
trans tunnel
tune/ecu swap

1:

disconnect negative battery cable

remove:

auto trans
trans cooler
trans cooler lines
starter
drive shaft
wire harness
shifter bezel
brake pedal assembly

2:

if using the manual wiring harness on the auto main harness, modify it. clip the ends off (leave enough wire on harness ends to splice), and slice wires together. the color codes are the same, so just match and go. the brake/reverse lights are controled from the signal from the trans. if you color match your splices, your lights will function properly with no issues.

3:

install:

brake pedal assembly
quradrant
firewall adjuster
pilot bearing
flywheel

the flywheel bolts are longer on the manual than they are on the auto's. a dealership can get them for you pretty quick. you can also opt for arp bolts instead if you want.





you will have to jump the neutral safety wire if i remember right, no big deal. the cables for the auto shifter neutral saftey switch will need to be tucked up out of the way and be in the park position. failure to do so will cause the key not to come back to the lock position. complete removal of auto steering column and cables to swap over to a manual set up would be ideal so you can have a key lock on the manuals.

4:

now you can install the clutch kit. you can get the bolts from a good parts store, nut and bolt place, or maybe the dealership (havent tried).



put the engine seperator plate in place, and install trans as well. be sure the clutch fork is in and the TOB is installed corerctly (it can be installed wrong) install the drive shaft, and fasten everything down. hook up trans wiring harness, and put up out of the way. the harness can be installed after trans is stabbed in, but can be a pain to install if trans is up and mounted.

congrats, now the heavy stuff is done

5:

the trans tunnel will need to be cut open a little to clear the shifter base for the manual trans.



its not much at all, about 3/4in tall and the width of the opening. be sure to cover the opening of the trans. drill 2 holes for the shifter base insulator. uncover the trans, and install the shifter. i personally fill the trans thru the shifter, so i fill before i install shifter. if you do this, be sure car is level as possible. be sure you use a gasket on the shifter as well, a thin bead of silicone will do as well (my method). install shifter handle and bezel.

6:

install the clutch cable, be sure you fasten down the cable to the frame. a little give in the cable will cause headaches when you go to adjust cable and shift. when you go to adjust/set you clutch cable, there should be about 1/8in slack total.

7:

now you can hook up the battery, install your tune for the ecu, and start her up. if the auto ecu is not tuned, you will have a couple lights flashing, speedo may read double, and might not be able to accept a tune correctly. if everything seems good, lower car and take for a drive. congrats, you are done.

avg time, about 10-16 hrs depending on your tools and experience.



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Last edited by SWEET2KSTANG; October 5th, 2009 at 11:14 AM.
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post #2 of 118 Old October 5th, 2009, 10:37 AM Thread Starter
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i know i will edit that post with anything i may have forgotten. hope this is informative, i took me an hour and 4 beers to do this write up. sorry i dont have more pics, the other pics are on doc's camera.



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post #3 of 118 Old October 5th, 2009, 10:39 AM
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Added it into the How To for ya

Beat ya to it



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At this point I don't think the Viper is exotic. It is more like a refined American redneck John Deere tractor made by Boeing with turbos.
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post #4 of 118 Old October 5th, 2009, 10:41 AM Thread Starter
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that took a lot for me to do after working 12hrs last night, remembering what me and doc had to do a year ago, drinking, and having the kids running around.



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post #5 of 118 Old October 5th, 2009, 10:50 AM
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Yeah



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At this point I don't think the Viper is exotic. It is more like a refined American redneck John Deere tractor made by Boeing with turbos.
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post #6 of 118 Old October 5th, 2009, 11:05 AM
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Good write up.

Btw at the end

"if everything seems food?"

Vote for Reps!

Quote:
Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you make it through the wall.
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post #7 of 118 Old October 5th, 2009, 11:07 AM
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yeah, I used snips to cut the interior hole bigger, its a PIA.

[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
[LEFT][B][COLOR="Red"]4r70w to TR3650 Swap...[/COLOR]
[COLOR="Red"][COLOR="Yellow"]SRA to 2001 IRS Swap...[/COLOR][/COLOR]
[COLOR="Orange"]2000 2v to 98 4v Swap...[/B][/COLOR]
[COLOR="RoyalBlue"][B][I]there really isn't much else to swap... :cool:[/I][/B][/COLOR][/LEFT]
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post #8 of 118 Old October 5th, 2009, 11:09 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redux View Post
Good write up.

Btw at the end

"if everything seems food?"
fix't. give me a break, tired, beer, and need to get up in a few hours



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post #9 of 118 Old October 5th, 2009, 11:27 AM
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Oh, I didn't mean it like that at all. Just trying to help.

Vote for Reps!

Quote:
Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you make it through the wall.
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post #10 of 118 Old October 5th, 2009, 11:32 AM
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So how do I convert my Mustang to AWD?












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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighDensity View Post
At this point I don't think the Viper is exotic. It is more like a refined American redneck John Deere tractor made by Boeing with turbos.
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post #11 of 118 Old October 5th, 2009, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Lefty View Post
So how do I convert my Mustang to AWD?
Stuff a Lambo Gallardo drivetrain under it.
Tractorri Lamborghini Mustang is strong like bull — Autoblog


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post #12 of 118 Old October 5th, 2009, 07:45 PM
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So how do I convert my Mustang to AWD?
it would be thug.

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post #13 of 118 Old October 5th, 2009, 08:07 PM
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extremely good write up..i plan on doing this in the future



Mods = stuff to make me take corner faster
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post #14 of 118 Old January 7th, 2010, 12:36 PM
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Thanks I just joined this site I have been looking for someone who had done this for like 2 weeks and nothing I am starting this project right now this will help alot did you use the adjustable clutch cable I was looking at the steeda kit it has adjustable cable or non adjustable and also I herd you can keep your auto computer and use the programer to fix all the problems is that true thanks for your help
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post #15 of 118 Old January 8th, 2010, 07:19 AM Thread Starter
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the ford cable is the best cable for these cars. you can run either as long as you have a firewall adjuster if you replace the quadrant. i personally run adjustable cable, and have broke one in the past. as for the ecu, you can run the auto ecu. you will have to get a tune loaded for the needed adjustments for the conversion. with the car that is pictured, i was able to get a stock tune from an 04 mach 1 with a manual transmission.



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post #16 of 118 Old January 8th, 2010, 06:41 PM
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ok i will do that thanks for you help
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post #17 of 118 Old September 21st, 2010, 09:27 PM
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a couple quick questions...

will the drive shaft from the auto work on the manual?

what will work differently by not swapping over the manual tranny's steering column?

how will the car know not to start if the clutch is not pushed in? is that something that is done inside the transmission or the clutch peddle?

i foresee many more questions in my future :
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post #18 of 118 Old September 21st, 2010, 09:50 PM
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no you need a manual drive shaft or a manual yoke to put in your drive shaft. there is a cable to hook up near you pedals that makes the car only start when the clutch is pushed in. i really don't understand your second question. you will also need a tuner at the end because your speedo will be messed up. i just completed my swap last week if you have any more questions let me know and ill see if i can help
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post #19 of 118 Old September 22nd, 2010, 03:29 PM Thread Starter
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steering column not a big deal, just wont have the lock like the manual guys do. as for starting, the clutch switch is just jumped. you can wire that in if you would like.



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post #20 of 118 Old September 22nd, 2010, 08:48 PM
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good R/UP want to do this eventually also, thanks. reps sir
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