Coolant Leak....STILL - Page 2 - Forums at Modded Mustangs
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #21 of 55 Old October 3rd, 2010, 01:58 AM
Regular
 
Darkvinyl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Toronto
Posts: 263
 
iTrader: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjohnstud4200 View Post
what gasket? are you referring to the o-ring that goes in the housing? the o-ring goes in first, then the thermostat.

Correction: the thermo, then the o-ring..
That's the one, and my bad, o-ring. Tad tipsy.
Darkvinyl is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #22 of 55 Old October 3rd, 2010, 02:09 AM Thread Starter
Regular
 
maxsideburn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Lafayette, LA
Posts: 70
 
iTrader: 0 reviews
the underside of the thermo housing, where the crossover meets the plastic manifold.
maxsideburn is offline  
post #23 of 55 Old October 3rd, 2010, 02:36 AM
Hardcore Enthusiast
 
MikeJones's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Stoon, Saskatchewan
Posts: 2,968
         
iTrader: 0 reviews
Your manifold is cracked. Aluminum Crossover doesn't mean shit, cause its bolted onto the plastic intake anyways. Replace. Aftermarket or OEM, pending on funds. When you take it apart and see that it is not cracked. Buy some RTV and jizz all over the fucking place.


Mod6 Eagle Melling
Bigbore Bullet Cams Meziere
Kooks Probe Pistons
Thanks to NA SVT and NeverEnough

MikeJones is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #24 of 55 Old October 3rd, 2010, 04:27 AM
Regular
 
burner79's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: FL
Posts: 191
 
iTrader: 0 reviews
First of all you cant take the crossover off the manifold without screwing it up. They are made together and if it was a new manifold there was no need to be concerned. If you unbolted anything from the new manifold you'll probably need another one.

As I posted in your previous thread, you only needed to add some high temp sealant around all the cracks you could reach in the water channels.

Without knowing what exactly you done I cant say, but I'm afraid you screwed up the new manifold.

https://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/signaturepics/sigpic34131_2.gif
burner79 is offline  
post #25 of 55 Old October 3rd, 2010, 10:07 AM Thread Starter
Regular
 
maxsideburn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Lafayette, LA
Posts: 70
 
iTrader: 0 reviews
well everyone kept saying that the new one had gaps that needed to be sealed and I asked in my other thread if it should be taken apart and sealed or just rub some sealant around the edges but got no answer and needed to start working.


either way, having dissassembled it I cannot see how taking the crossover off would have permanently damaged it. it's simply metal meeting plastic. I just think I got the torque specs wrong when I put it back together.
maxsideburn is offline  
post #26 of 55 Old October 3rd, 2010, 11:05 AM Thread Starter
Regular
 
maxsideburn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Lafayette, LA
Posts: 70
 
iTrader: 0 reviews
ok, went out this morning and checked everything. pulled all of the plugs and checked them to see if they were fouled.

the entire left side (side with the thermostat) had water on them (no coolant until I figure out this leak), but you could smell the coolant residue on them. they literally dripped when I pulled them from the plugwells.

anyway I dried them off and took the car for a spin. about the first block or so I felt like I had full power again, but then back to tractor mode.

I THINK the leaking at the thermostat housing area has stopped as I can no longer see any visible leaks...but how could the plugs be covered in water/coolant? if it was the intake manifold gasket wouldn't I SEE where water/coolant was dripping down into the plugwells?
maxsideburn is offline  
post #27 of 55 Old October 3rd, 2010, 01:45 PM
Regular
 
burner79's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: FL
Posts: 191
 
iTrader: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by maxsideburn View Post
ok, went out this morning and checked everything. pulled all of the plugs and checked them to see if they were fouled.

the entire left side (side with the thermostat) had water on them (no coolant until I figure out this leak), but you could smell the coolant residue on them. they literally dripped when I pulled them from the plugwells.

anyway I dried them off and took the car for a spin. about the first block or so I felt like I had full power again, but then back to tractor mode.

I THINK the leaking at the thermostat housing area has stopped as I can no longer see any visible leaks...but how could the plugs be covered in water/coolant? if it was the intake manifold gasket wouldn't I SEE where water/coolant was dripping down into the plugwells?
let the car get to operating temp and then watch around your plug area when the thermostat opens up. There's really no other way for water to be getting in those holes unless your head/block is cracked in those plug holes. (I highly doubt that's the case) Watch it for a day or two now that you think the leak is stopped and check the plug holes again.

https://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/signaturepics/sigpic34131_2.gif
burner79 is offline  
post #28 of 55 Old October 3rd, 2010, 01:46 PM
Regular
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: MS
Posts: 75
 
iTrader: 0 reviews
I feel yo pain man put new intake on mINE an leaked worse than before, finally got it to stop, high temp works miracles an retighten to correct pattern helps....
BIGDADDYKANE is offline  
post #29 of 55 Old October 3rd, 2010, 02:15 PM Thread Starter
Regular
 
maxsideburn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Lafayette, LA
Posts: 70
 
iTrader: 0 reviews
ok, got out there and checked all hoses and connections. they all look good.

removed and checked all fuel injectors to make sure none of them had gotten clogged with debris, also took a little 10w-40 and smeared it around the o-rings to help create a better seal.

now I have the plugs pulled from the thermostat side of the engine and just letting those plugwells dry out. it may simply be that they had gotten lots of water/coolant and fuel into them from the procedure. I also inspected each plugwell with a flashlight and can see no obvious cracks or anything like that. I have a feeling that the moisture in the plugwells was just a buildup from what had spilled during the removal and reinstall.

now the question is....did I fry a COP from it being so wet? any way to test for that? I have tried pulling each of them while the car is running and each one causes a stumble, so I know they're definitely all firing, just don't know if they're all firing properly.

oh, I also ran a vacuum test, the cheap Harbor Freight gauge I have said that the vacuum was slightly below normal...of course that could just be a generic range for MOST engines and not this engine.

after the plugwells are super dry I'm going to check the torque on the thermo housing bolts one more time then run the car up to operating temperature to check for any leaks around the plugwells and also I read in another thread that you should run the car to operating temperature and then re-check the torque on your intake manifold bolts.
maxsideburn is offline  
post #30 of 55 Old October 3rd, 2010, 04:28 PM
Regular
 
GP-SE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Richmond Hill, Ontario
Posts: 496
 
iTrader: 0 reviews
so If I buy a new intake manifold from say americanmuscle do I just buy new gaskets from Ford and install? or do I need to take it apart and seal parts, then install?
GP-SE is offline  
post #31 of 55 Old October 3rd, 2010, 04:30 PM Thread Starter
Regular
 
maxsideburn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Lafayette, LA
Posts: 70
 
iTrader: 0 reviews
ok, yet another update.

after cleaning the plugwells of fluids and drying out the coils and plugs, re-seating the fuel injectors, and checking all connections again the car now seems to run properly (or really close) It's not running like a tractor anymore, it actually has power again.

however, the coolant leak is still present. not bad mind you, but there. it seeps a little, and if you drive it really hard you get some drops. I did however notice that there is some leakage coming from the top too (as opposed to just the underside of the thermostat housing).

so next on my list is to replace the upper radiator hose and clamp and to remove the thermostat cover, apply sealant, and then re-install.

with a lot of luck I may discover that what I'm seeing now is actually just seepage running down from either where the thermo cover mates to the thermo housing or from a tiny leak in the radiator hose where it meets the thermo cover.

I also paid close attention to the area around my plugwells after taking a drive. it's really hard to tell but I think I did see a tiny bit of "moisture" around them, but I wouldn't say it was really "wet".
maxsideburn is offline  
post #32 of 55 Old October 3rd, 2010, 04:31 PM Thread Starter
Regular
 
maxsideburn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Lafayette, LA
Posts: 70
 
iTrader: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by GP-SE View Post
so If I buy a new intake manifold from say americanmuscle do I just buy new gaskets from Ford and install? or do I need to take it apart and seal parts, then install?
I wish I could tell you...apparently either way you do it you're in for trouble. I've had tons of trouble and from what I've read the damned part is just designed so badly that it wants to leak. It has "gaps" when it arrives new.
maxsideburn is offline  
post #33 of 55 Old October 3rd, 2010, 07:20 PM
Regular
 
burner79's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: FL
Posts: 191
 
iTrader: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by GP-SE View Post
so If I buy a new intake manifold from say americanmuscle do I just buy new gaskets from Ford and install? or do I need to take it apart and seal parts, then install?
Go to autozone and get the felpro intake manifold gaskets.

DO NOT TAKE THE NEW MANIFOLD APART OR YOU RUIN IT!!!!!!!!!

I don't know where people got the idea to go taking apart the manifold.

Quote:
Originally Posted by maxsideburn View Post
ok, yet another update.

after cleaning the plugwells of fluids and drying out the coils and plugs, re-seating the fuel injectors, and checking all connections again the car now seems to run properly (or really close) It's not running like a tractor anymore, it actually has power again.

however, the coolant leak is still present. not bad mind you, but there. it seeps a little, and if you drive it really hard you get some drops. I did however notice that there is some leakage coming from the top too (as opposed to just the underside of the thermostat housing).

so next on my list is to replace the upper radiator hose and clamp and to remove the thermostat cover, apply sealant, and then re-install.

with a lot of luck I may discover that what I'm seeing now is actually just seepage running down from either where the thermo cover mates to the thermo housing or from a tiny leak in the radiator hose where it meets the thermo cover.

I also paid close attention to the area around my plugwells after taking a drive. it's really hard to tell but I think I did see a tiny bit of "moisture" around them, but I wouldn't say it was really "wet".
Your problem is that you decided to disassemble the new manifold. You should have only sealed the cracks you could reach with high temp sealant. I highly doubt you'll get the leak stopped without yet another new manifold. The coolant crossbar is not meant to be removed.

If you follow the writeup posted on AmericanMuscle and add my suggestion of sealing the inner cracks with sealant, there's no way you'd have leaks unless you over tightened the new manifold.

https://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/signaturepics/sigpic34131_2.gif

Last edited by burner79; October 3rd, 2010 at 07:27 PM.
burner79 is offline  
post #34 of 55 Old October 3rd, 2010, 08:21 PM
Regular
 
GP-SE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Richmond Hill, Ontario
Posts: 496
 
iTrader: 0 reviews
thanks, I'll have to change mine eventually, I took a good look today and noticed a small amount of coolant around the #5 plug, where the aluminum crossover meets the plastic. I'll buy the intake manifold from american muscle and get the Ford or fel pro gaskets.
GP-SE is offline  
post #35 of 55 Old October 3rd, 2010, 08:39 PM
Enthusiast
 
Mustang46's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Franklin, Ohio
Posts: 998
   
iTrader: 2 reviews
I just wanted to chime in on this. I had to do a conversion for a guy that put a PI intake on a 96 GT and we had to change over his non PI aluminum crossover. I unbolted both intake crossovers and seen that the o-rings were really nasty. I pulled out the o-rings and cleaned everything up and reinstalled them with some Black RTV Ultra-High temp silicone in the wholes with the o-rings and a really thin layer on the top so that it made a complete seal. The car now has probably 10k miles I have never had a problem with it leaking. The one thing that I did have a problem with was that I had to use a wire brush to clean off the top of the heads to get a good surface to for the gaskets. Upon installing I did notice that some of the area's were pitted. so I just put a small layer of silicone on there too. I only wanted to do this once and I never had a problem. Just thought I would share.

Mustang46 is offline  
post #36 of 55 Old October 3rd, 2010, 08:47 PM
Hardcore Enthusiast
 
MikeJones's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Stoon, Saskatchewan
Posts: 2,968
         
iTrader: 0 reviews
What the fuck is this shit? You guys not see the picture I posted? Here I'll post it again.



All I used was RTV sealent. (A high temp Gasket Maker). I REMOVED MY CROSSOVER AND IM STILL DRIVING THE PISS OUT OF MY CAR WITH NO PROBLEMS. This is like saying if you remove a head, you gotta go buy a new one cause it comes with a gasket.. Horseshit. I hope AJM comes back on here.

As you can see in the FIRST PICTURE I POSTED that there is 3 bolts on the one side going upwards.. I beleive that there were 2 on the other side. Thats how you take it off the crossover to the plastic. Common sense. Then as you can see when you look inside that there is gasket maker leftover shit. Take it out and redo a gasket. Its like coloring with a crayon-Easy Shit.

https://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...-bad-sh-z.html
https://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...already-2.html

Mod6 Eagle Melling
Bigbore Bullet Cams Meziere
Kooks Probe Pistons
Thanks to NA SVT and NeverEnough

MikeJones is offline  
post #37 of 55 Old October 3rd, 2010, 08:51 PM
Enthusiast
 
Mustang46's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Franklin, Ohio
Posts: 998
   
iTrader: 2 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikejones16 View Post
What the fuck is this shit? You guys not see the picture I posted? Here I'll post it again.



All I used was RTV sealent. (A high temp Gasket Maker). I REMOVED MY CROSSOVER AND IM STILL DRIVING THE PISS OUT OF MY CAR WITH NO PROBLEMS. This is like saying if you remove a head, you gotta go buy a new one cause it comes with a gasket.. Horseshit. I hope AJM comes back on here.

As you can see in the FIRST PICTURE I POSTED that there is 3 bolts on the one side going upwards.. I beleive that there were 2 on the other side. Thats how you take it off the crossover to the plastic. Common sense. Then as you can see when you look inside that there is gasket maker leftover shit. Take it out and redo a gasket. Its like coloring with a crayon-Easy Shit.

https://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...-bad-sh-z.html
https://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...already-2.html
AMEN!!!!!!!! Thats what I was saying also.

Mustang46 is offline  
post #38 of 55 Old October 3rd, 2010, 08:54 PM
Hardcore Enthusiast
 
MikeJones's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Stoon, Saskatchewan
Posts: 2,968
         
iTrader: 0 reviews
Reps.

Mod6 Eagle Melling
Bigbore Bullet Cams Meziere
Kooks Probe Pistons
Thanks to NA SVT and NeverEnough

MikeJones is offline  
post #39 of 55 Old October 3rd, 2010, 08:58 PM
Enthusiast
 
Mustang46's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Franklin, Ohio
Posts: 998
   
iTrader: 2 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikejones16 View Post
Reps.
Rep'ed +1 from me

Mustang46 is offline  
post #40 of 55 Old October 3rd, 2010, 09:00 PM
Hardcore Enthusiast
 
MikeJones's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Stoon, Saskatchewan
Posts: 2,968
         
iTrader: 0 reviews
I think i see the confusion here.. Ok guys, I just noticed that one guy said that the crossover was one peice.. Well from 99-01 it was ALL PLASTIC. then in 02-04 they had a aluminum crossover. My bad dogs.

Mod6 Eagle Melling
Bigbore Bullet Cams Meziere
Kooks Probe Pistons
Thanks to NA SVT and NeverEnough

MikeJones is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Forums at Modded Mustangs forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome