What Exactly is a Swarr Bar? - Page 2 - Forums at Modded Mustangs
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post #21 of 36 Old January 11th, 2011, 07:35 PM
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Bullitt what size tires and wheels do you have on your car? 15x4's and 15x8's with what backspacing? What size tires?


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post #22 of 36 Old January 11th, 2011, 07:37 PM
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Mig, bought it at Harbor freight for $120 came with a chipping hammer, cheap mask, 2 tips, and a roll of wire.
I wouldn't count on good penetration with a $120 Harbor Freight MIG welder.

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post #23 of 36 Old January 11th, 2011, 07:38 PM
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Bullitt what size tires and wheels do you have on your car? 15x4's and 15x8's with what backspacing? What size tires?
1.5 backspacing on the front, 5.5 on the rear. 165R15's on the front and 275/60's on the rear.

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post #24 of 36 Old January 11th, 2011, 07:42 PM
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I wouldn't count on good penetration with a $120 Harbor Freight MIG welder.
You would be surprised I knew how to weld since i was like 12 yrs old and i took welding classes through out school. So are the backs just street radials or what do you run the track on?


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post #25 of 36 Old January 11th, 2011, 07:46 PM
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Right now, it's got 555R's on it, because I got a great deal on the wheels and tires, but before the track opens, it'll have M/T Drag Radials on it.

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post #26 of 36 Old January 11th, 2011, 07:46 PM
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hmm, ima weld mine up when the fox motor is done, ive got a lincoln weld pak hd.
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post #27 of 36 Old January 11th, 2011, 07:50 PM
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Don't just weld a solid bead around them unless you have a fixture. It'll get the axle tubes too hot and risk warping them. If you're going to do it yourself with no fixture, stitch them a little at a time, swapping sides of the axle, and sides of the housing, giving everything time to cool a bit.

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post #28 of 36 Old January 11th, 2011, 07:56 PM
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Don't just weld a solid bead around them unless you have a fixture. It'll get the axle tubes too hot and risk warping them. If you're going to do it yourself with no fixture, stitch them a little at a time, swapping sides of the axle, and sides of the housing, giving everything time to cool a bit.
Yeah you dont wanna lay down no more than about a 1/2 in bead at a time, you could boil your rear fluid and warp the tubes. I done mine while it was jacked up with the tires sitting on blocks so the weight was on the tires and welded up about 1/2in at a time. Took me a few hrs to go all the way around.


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post #29 of 36 Old January 11th, 2011, 07:57 PM
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How are some of you guys driving/launching that you do so much damage to your rears/axles???

You must be sidestepping the clutch.

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post #30 of 36 Old January 11th, 2011, 07:59 PM
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Launching at 5500rpm with a 3250lb car on 315/35 Hoosier Drag Radials is pretty hard on everything in the rear end, to be honest.

That's the main reason I went to a 15" wheel at the track was to get more sidewall to lessen the shock on everything. I was hooking just fine on the Hoosiers to be honest.

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post #31 of 36 Old January 11th, 2011, 08:00 PM
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Yeah you dont wanna lay down no more than about a 1/2 in bead at a time, you could boil your rear fluid and warp the tubes. I done mine while it was jacked up with the tires sitting on blocks so the weight was on the tires and welded up about 1/2in at a time. Took me a few hrs to go all the way around.
okay, i was gonna ask if there should be weight on the axle or what. thanks guys
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post #32 of 36 Old January 11th, 2011, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by saxmanJJ View Post
How are some of you guys driving/launching that you do so much damage to your rears/axles???

You must be sidestepping the clutch.
My cars not build to slip the clutch out. My cars built to dump the clutch and go


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post #33 of 36 Old January 11th, 2011, 08:33 PM
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How are some of you guys driving/launching that you do so much damage to your rears/axles???

You must be sidestepping the clutch.
You have been on the stock clutch for a while haven't you? If so that really helps lesson the shock in your drivetrain.


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post #34 of 36 Old January 11th, 2011, 09:29 PM
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How are some of you guys driving/launching that you do so much damage to your rears/axles???

You must be sidestepping the clutch.
on my 275/40 hoosier dr's i just dump the clutch at 3500 rpm

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post #35 of 36 Old July 31st, 2017, 02:45 PM
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Swarr Bar Mustang 8.8in Rear Support (86-04) at AmericanMuscle.com - Free Shipping! I saw this on AM and it looks like the same concept as a Torque Arm. Obviously not as strong and doesn't change to a 3 link, but this seems interesting. What do you guys think?
I had one installed yesterday and it's worth the money. This is not just my butt dyno telling me. Before my Swarr bar, I already had J&M Lower LCA, Bilsteins HD, Eicbach Anti sway, Nitto 555 and I still had little issue laying power to the ground (Mostly spinning, no wheel hops). When I did some test launches after the bar was installed, it hooked much better. Also, accelerating around the turns, car stayed planted. Before on the same corner around similar acceleration, my rear right tire will always spin.

The thing is, I can't say it will work for all the cars out there. Every car can have different rear setups. It may work or it may not. But I can safely say, if you have similar setup I have, it will definitely worth time and money to get better improvements on your traction. Does not matter if your car have 1000HP, if you can't put it to the ground, you'll see my tailights get further and further.

It took about 2 hours to install with ramps. Hardest part was drilling holes on your differential. If you use 1/8 bit to punch through, 25/64 bit will be much easier to go through.

Before swarr bar, I ordered CHE brace. I tell you what, it's a beauty but had fitment issue so I ended up returning it. Those guys at CHE are great!

Overall, I'm very happy and better stability at the rear is giving me more confidence and peace of mind now.
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post #36 of 36 Old August 1st, 2017, 08:53 PM
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Dead thread from 2011...





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