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post #1 of 16 Old January 13th, 2011, 01:59 AM Thread Starter
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Something Different

Instead of seeing if you think I should do A first, B first, or C first, I'll just tell you what i got and see what you would do next... (look in my sig)



Centennial GT Project

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I'll buy a Chevy before i go back to MMR.
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post #2 of 16 Old January 13th, 2011, 02:02 AM
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shifter. clutch cable and quadrant, fire wall adjuster. gears, tuner.

Last edited by Sally845; January 13th, 2011 at 02:03 AM. Reason: edit
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post #3 of 16 Old January 13th, 2011, 02:09 AM
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turbo
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post #4 of 16 Old January 13th, 2011, 02:14 AM Thread Starter
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turbo
Ha I wish. I'm lookin for some < $500 mods to start



Centennial GT Project

My weakness becomes my weapon, and pain my pleasure

Quote:
Originally Posted by GCubersoldat View Post
I'll buy a Chevy before i go back to MMR.
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post #5 of 16 Old January 13th, 2011, 02:16 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Sally845 View Post
shifter. clutch cable and quadrant, fire wall adjuster. gears, tuner.
I was thinkin SCT with free tunes first, then prob 3.90's, then a shifter. Why would I need the clutch cable and adjuster? Im askin cuz I dont know, not cuz im doubting.



Centennial GT Project

My weakness becomes my weapon, and pain my pleasure

Quote:
Originally Posted by GCubersoldat View Post
I'll buy a Chevy before i go back to MMR.
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post #6 of 16 Old January 13th, 2011, 02:19 AM
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stock one wears out, + its nice to be able to adjust it on the firewall. peace of mind to have a new one, you dont gotta worry bout it breaking, itll shift nice with all that
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post #7 of 16 Old January 13th, 2011, 02:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by codycat91 View Post
I was thinkin SCT with free tunes first, then prob 3.90's, then a shifter. Why would I need the clutch cable and adjuster? Im askin cuz I dont know, not cuz im doubting.
it'll make that clutch feel alot better...my friends got it on his and after driving his car i want to buy the same for my car, but im still undecided about dropping my friends built auto in my car...

as for $500 mod...i'd get the tuner then save the rest
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post #8 of 16 Old January 13th, 2011, 02:24 AM
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yeah, i did a pro 5.0 shifter, steeda cable, adjuster and quadrant all at once and was amazed with how much better it was
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post #9 of 16 Old January 13th, 2011, 03:19 AM
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gears, tuner and a set of lower control arms

Fun: 2004 Mustang GT
DD: 1994 Ram 2500 Cummins 4x4


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post #10 of 16 Old January 13th, 2011, 06:29 AM
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I have to agree with tbird. Some Maximum Motorsports lower control arms would really benefit you in the traction area. More traction = the ability to launch at a higher RPM without blowing off the tires = lower 60 foot times = overall lower 1/4 mile time.

I'd recommend 3.73 gears, an SCT LiveWire or SF3 with the free custom tunes for life from Bama at AM, and the clutch adjuster kit from AM. Includes a Steeda adjustable cable, Stack Racing firewall adjuster, Stack Racing double hook clutch quadrant.

I know I'm going to need that clutch adjuster kit for sure now. My 2nd gear synchro is going out, so I'm not fooling with the TR3650 anymore, and going for a T56 when I can get my hands on one. Apparently the T56 bellhousing is a bit deeper than the TR3650's, so I'll need to adjust for about about an inch of clutch cable slack. Kind of sad, I wanted to go for the On 3 Performance single turbo kit since their new forward facing header kit is only $2,199, plus the cost of a K member, injectors, pump, etc. But I guess in the long run, I'd be better off beefing up the drivetrain a bit before I add more power, so it'd be one less thing that could go wrong.

Anyhow, for around the $500 mark or less per mod, everyone including you, OP, got it. Gears, tuner, clutch cable and that jazz, shifter, suspension mods, that sort of stuff. The small things that can make big differences. What about spending the extra $ on some 17x10.5s, so you can run 315s out back?

YN Silver '01 GT - Main money pit
Black '01 GT - Racecar
'92 E36 BMW 325i - $500 daily driver
'86 Camaro - Sitting in a shed torn apart
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post #11 of 16 Old January 13th, 2011, 09:01 AM
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Full length sub frames, shocks/struts, and some CC plates if you can


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post #12 of 16 Old January 13th, 2011, 05:28 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin C View Post

Anyhow, for around the $500 mark or less per mod, everyone including you, OP, got it. Gears, tuner, clutch cable and that jazz, shifter, suspension mods, that sort of stuff. The small things that can make big differences. What about spending the extra $ on some 17x10.5s, so you can run 315s out back?
I really want a different set of rims/tires. I have a few to trade. Either the stock bullits on my car now or a set of brand new 20's with 0 curb rash and about 99% left on tires. Only driven for about 1 1/2 months. I'd sell either too.





Centennial GT Project

My weakness becomes my weapon, and pain my pleasure

Quote:
Originally Posted by GCubersoldat View Post
I'll buy a Chevy before i go back to MMR.

Last edited by codycat91; January 13th, 2011 at 06:20 PM.
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post #13 of 16 Old January 13th, 2011, 05:34 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mustang_gtr_99 View Post
Full length sub frames, shocks/struts, and some CC plates if you can
I know i need shocks/struts but why would i need cc plates? Aren't those for cars that dont align properly? Mine is fine with my lowering springs and offset bushings



Centennial GT Project

My weakness becomes my weapon, and pain my pleasure

Quote:
Originally Posted by GCubersoldat View Post
I'll buy a Chevy before i go back to MMR.
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post #14 of 16 Old January 13th, 2011, 08:12 PM
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you only need the CC's if you are lowering lower than 1.5 in. Trust me, the stock shocks and struts suck big fat donkey balls.


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post #15 of 16 Old January 18th, 2011, 03:59 PM
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Definitely an SCT tuner with some FRPP 4.10's and a short throw shifter to round things out.
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post #16 of 16 Old January 18th, 2011, 05:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mustangfamily View Post
Definitely an SCT tuner with some FRPP 4.10's and a short throw shifter to round things out.
You're possibly recommending him a bit too high of a gear. He'd be limited to about 110 in 4th. I'd hate to have to hit 6,000 RPM just to hit 110 in 4th. With my 3.73s, I can do a little over 120 in 4th.

I don't know, it all depends on his driving style. I typically hit 80+ on the highway when there isn't much traffic, just during normal driving. I can even do that quite comfortably with the 3.73s, at only 2,600 RPM in 5th. It seems like a lot of people have regretted going with 4.10s in manual cars, but see great results with 4.10s with automatic cars.

I just know my 3.73s will go along great with a T56 once I have one , they're a great highway trans. Lots of gears to run through, a higher 5th to bridge the gap of 1:1 to .67:1 on the TR3650, then a slightly lower 6th to balance it out.

YN Silver '01 GT - Main money pit
Black '01 GT - Racecar
'92 E36 BMW 325i - $500 daily driver
'86 Camaro - Sitting in a shed torn apart
'13 Kawasaki ZX-6R - Sold, too fast, want a Harley
'11 E92 BMW 328i xDrive Coupe 6MT - Daily luxury
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