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post #981 of 1329 Old November 4th, 2014, 11:05 PM
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I still can't believe you're doing compound boost. I'm excited to see this thing run.
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post #982 of 1329 Old November 5th, 2014, 09:23 AM Thread Starter
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Can you take pics of the engine fully timed for me? I Just want to see how the RH, LH and crank all look compared to each other. Instructions I have are all different and misleading. I'd appreciate it a lot.
Sure thing. Any specific requests? I probably won't get new pics until Fri/Sat though. I've got some ones from the first go around though if you're in a hurry.
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post #983 of 1329 Old November 5th, 2014, 04:21 PM
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Sure thing. Any specific requests? I probably won't get new pics until Fri/Sat though. I've got some ones from the first go around though if you're in a hurry.
I'm in no hurry. I won't be able to touch the engine again for awhile, sadly. Need a new oil pump before I do anything.

But pics of the intake cam gears compared together with the gear on the crank. Mainly where do the dots on the gears all line up together compared to each other while the engine is at TDC. I think I did it correctly last time, but I ran into my oil pump issue and couldn't really verify I had done it correctly.

Thanks in advance.



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post #984 of 1329 Old December 3rd, 2014, 09:22 PM Thread Starter
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Wouldn't be this build if I didn't run into more problems.




The ports/flange is about 3/8" off from where it should be. If I just bolted it on, it would blow out the rearmost cylinder port, guaranteed. Gasket matches the head port almost perfectly, but it's off on the exhaust flange.

Now I need to figure out what the fuck to do. I've got two real options; cut the whole damn flange off, get a new one, and weld all the primaries back on, OR cut off the misaligned bolt holes/tabs, and weld on a set of new ones. I'm leaning toward the latter as there's less chance of fucking things up.

Good thing I learned to TIG.
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post #985 of 1329 Old December 4th, 2014, 10:13 AM
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What happened, it the primaries got welded on the wrong side of flange?
Couldn't tell you how often I do that, get all turned around and crap in hurry.
As you know it's obvious I don't hurry any more now.


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post #986 of 1329 Old December 4th, 2014, 12:09 PM
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I would have more respect for anyone that has the ability to make a car fast versus any mama's boy with money that wants to go down the road to a local used car lot and buy a car that they can barely handle and/or begin to figure out how to fix the engine they just blew up pulling whole shots to impress thier facebook followers....

Anyone can BUY a fast car... Can everyone here BUILD one...

When your a TRUE gearhead, its not about money spent, its about the hours under the hood with tools in the hand and the busted knuckels to show for it.

Keep us posted on your build status with plenty of updates and pics... Thanks for the post.

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post #987 of 1329 Old December 4th, 2014, 08:55 PM Thread Starter
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What happened, it the primaries got welded on the wrong side of flange?
Couldn't tell you how often I do that, get all turned around and crap in hurry.
As you know it's obvious I don't hurry any more now.
No idea what the hell happened. I even dropped the car off and gave him a set of my old gaskets so he had a perfect template.

I don't think it's flipped around, because they're symmetrical. The bolt locations are just shifted 1/2" from where they should be. No idea how it happened or why. This guy has done headers for all kinds of engines and they all mated up. Murphy's law the 4.6 is the first one to have an issue.
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post #988 of 1329 Old December 4th, 2014, 09:00 PM
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Is drilling new holes not an option?

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post #989 of 1329 Old December 4th, 2014, 09:29 PM
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Holy shit wicked anything ever go smoothly for you?

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post #990 of 1329 Old December 4th, 2014, 10:02 PM Thread Starter
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Is drilling new holes not an option?
Not enough material. The bolt holes are through a small triangular tab. If I wanted to move them 1/2" it would be into a spot where there's just plain nothing. Plus on the one side it looks like they already fucked up once and double drilled, and there's barely anything left as is.

I've been trying to get a hold of the guy I got this from, but no luck. I even sent him a picture. I'd be happy to just get some new blanks or something, but something tells me I won't be seeing those any time soon. Hell, he still owes me a MAF flange, dump pipes, and a coupler I never got back.
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post #991 of 1329 Old December 5th, 2014, 09:26 AM
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I'd almost consider filling in the holes with the welder, adding some material around the edges if need be, just make sure if you add material to the edge to grind a deep notch where the surfaces meet, otherwise you are just welding on the surface and will grind most away when re-plaining. Then re-plain it with the belt sander and re-drill the holes, just be care full to keep it flat obviously.


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post #992 of 1329 Old December 7th, 2014, 01:14 PM Thread Starter
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I'd almost consider filling in the holes with the welder, adding some material around the edges if need be, just make sure if you add material to the edge to grind a deep notch where the surfaces meet, otherwise you are just welding on the surface and will grind most away when re-plaining. Then re-plain it with the belt sander and re-drill the holes, just be care full to keep it flat obviously.
I'd need to use about 6 rods of filler just to get enough material for one bolt. If I have to go that route I'd probably get a few pieces of bar stock, groove them, and make 2-3 passes on each side to get it solid.

Although I managed to get a hold of the fabricator, and he's supposed to help me out, but I won't see anything until a week or two after Christmas. Of course if that estimate is anything like the original one, I can expect it in June.

Sorry to disappoint, but it looks like this build will be on hold for another month or so.
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post #993 of 1329 Old December 7th, 2014, 06:05 PM
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You must have a big file under the heading "Character Building".....

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post #994 of 1329 Old December 7th, 2014, 06:20 PM Thread Starter
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You must have a big file under the heading "Character Building".....
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post #995 of 1329 Old December 8th, 2014, 08:59 AM
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I'd need to use about 6 rods of filler just to get enough material for one bolt. If I have to go that route I'd probably get a few pieces of bar stock, groove them, and make 2-3 passes on each side to get it solid.

Although I managed to get a hold of the fabricator, and he's supposed to help me out, but I won't see anything until a week or two after Christmas. Of course if that estimate is anything like the original one, I can expect it in June.

Sorry to disappoint, but it looks like this build will be on hold for another month or so.
You know I MAY have some stainless bar stock in my garage you can have.
My father in laws gives me random stuff like this and I think they may be stainless. I used em and stakes for Halloween decorations and they didn't rust lol. They are maybe 3/8 to half inch. I'll bring one in if you wanna check it out.


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post #996 of 1329 Old December 8th, 2014, 12:37 PM
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So what are you going to end up doing, shipping the header to Chicago? If I were in your shoes I'd be so done waiting on people lol

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post #997 of 1329 Old December 8th, 2014, 08:46 PM Thread Starter
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You know I MAY have some stainless bar stock in my garage you can have.
My father in laws gives me random stuff like this and I think they may be stainless. I used em and stakes for Halloween decorations and they didn't rust lol. They are maybe 3/8 to half inch. I'll bring one in if you wanna check it out.
I doubt it's T-304, and I'd still have to take measurements for the exact bar size. I'll have to swing by and show you how bad it looks this week.

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So what are you going to end up doing, shipping the header to Chicago? If I were in your shoes I'd be so done waiting on people lol
Well it's either send it to him and let him fix it on his own dime, or I have to drop $60+ for T304 bar stock, spend a couple hours under the hood making pass after pass with who knows how many stainless filler rods, mark and drill out the bolt pattern, then spend another hour or so grinding it all flush. Quite honestly with the work load at work, Christmas shopping and parties, shipping and all that shit, I'd be lucky to get it done before he did.
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post #998 of 1329 Old December 9th, 2014, 11:16 AM
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I doubt it's T-304, and I'd still have to take measurements for the exact bar size. I'll have to swing by and show you how bad it looks this week.



Well it's either send it to him and let him fix it on his own dime, or I have to drop $60+ for T304 bar stock, spend a couple hours under the hood making pass after pass with who knows how many stainless filler rods, mark and drill out the bolt pattern, then spend another hour or so grinding it all flush. Quite honestly with the work load at work, Christmas shopping and parties, shipping and all that shit, I'd be lucky to get it done before he did.
I have no idea what grade it is other than it shure is shiny and purdy.
You gotta be care full with me thought, I'll try to weld steel to a potato if the need arises.
Considering the luck you have better play it safe as opposed to random mystery metal that for all we know are cooling rod handles out of Chernobly or something.

1/8 filler and a brass hammer on the backside would make short work of it, BUT the drilling/grinding will eat up time better spent buying fruit cakes and those salami, cheese, cracker packages for people.
Besides... you really shouldn't HAVE to be fixing this yourself considering you already paid for it.


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post #999 of 1329 Old December 12th, 2014, 09:19 AM Thread Starter
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Well the good news is that apparently the fabricator is going wild on this and has opted to just make a whole new set with another mockup car he has. I'm not holding my breath.

I've got a backup plan and some stainless bar stock bookmarked in case that doesn't pan out. Then it would just be several hours of welding, grinding, and drilling.

Of course if I do end up getting a working set come January I'll be fucking thrilled.
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post #1000 of 1329 Old December 17th, 2014, 02:45 PM
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