Installing coil springs how-to - Forums at Modded Mustangs
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post #1 of 22 Old June 27th, 2012, 01:37 PM Thread Starter
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Installing coil springs how-to

I've seen a lot of people asking questions about this, and how difficult it is, so I thought I'd do a guide since I had to put on new poly isos.

This is really an easy job, that I've done in my driveway with basic hand tools multiple times.

Obviously you'll start by taking the tire off. I do one side at a time, with the vehicle properly set up on a jackstand.



Next, take the brake rotor and caliper off. I do this by leaving the caliper on the rotor to make things faster. There are two 15mm bolts on the back side of the caliper that bolts onto the spindle.



Once you get the rotor off, make sure you rest it on something so it's not just hanging from the brake line. I just use a bucket.



Next up is the sway bar. I take the only the top nut off, again using a 15mm socket. You'll see a flat spot on the sway bar link, I grab this with a pair of pliers so it doesn't spin.



At this point, make sure you have a jack under the A arm, and slightly raise it to take the pressure off the strut bolts.

I didn't take a pic of this, but next you'll take off the two bolts that hold the strut onto the spindle. One side is a 21mm, and I'm not sure what the other side is,because I always use a wrench that I cut in half for another job so it doesnt have the size marked on it.

Once you get those 2 bolts off, you're ready to get the spring out. Slowly lower the jack, until its fully lowered. If you still have stock springs, they'll take a bit more work to get out. Push down on the Aarm, (I use my foot) and use a small pry bar to get the spring out. They are under some tension, but not really enough to go flying as some people say.



Now you're ready to re-install. Make sure the pigtail of the spring goes between the two drain holes.



Then, jack the a arm back up, guiding the sway bar endlink back into its hole, then reinstall all nuts and bolts in reverse order, put tire back on, do your other side, then step back and enjoy your new stance.

*Note- Anytime you disassemble your front end, or change the ride height, It's best to get it realigned. Take it to a reputable shop.

You'll also notice I left the tie rod ends connected. People will tell you that you can damage the ends by not taking them off, but Ive done this numerous times and they are fine. You will damage them by using a pickle fork type tool for sure, and I dont have the patience to bang on the spindle for hours, hoping that it drops free.

So that's it, how to change springs by using basic tools, in your driveway, by taking off 5 bolts per side in under an hour.

So go get dirty, no excuses!



2006 Toyota Tacoma.
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post #2 of 22 Old June 27th, 2012, 01:37 PM Thread Starter
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Rear Springs-

Again, start by jacking the car up and supporting on jack stands. This time, you'll jack up both sides. Make sure to use a block your front wheels, unless you enjoy getting your face smashed. Take both tires off. You'll see I only took off one but it was 100 degrees out and I wanted to hurry. Do as I say and not as I do.

Now we're getting to the good stuff. Take your lower end of the shock off. One side is a 15mm and the other is an 18mm. It helps to put a little pressure on the shock mount when taking the bolt out. Take both sides off.




The shock will now realize who is in control, and move out of your way.


Now place your jack under the opposite side, and begin to jack the rear end up. As the one side rises, the opposite will lower. This is good. Make sure you don't get crazy with your jacking and lift the car off your jack stands.



Once you have jacked up the rear to the point of the car being lifted off the stand, you're ready to take the spring out. Push down on the rotor with your left hand, and grab onto one of the coils with your other hand and compress the spring until it slides out. NOTE* If you have stock springs in place, you may need to utilize a pry bar to pry the spring out of place. Do this by pressing down on the rotor, while lifting the spring up and to the back of the car from underneath.



Now the spring is out. Step back and admire this gaping hole you have created.



When installing your new spring, slide the top into place on the upper spring perch, then push down on the rotor once again to free up some room to slide the spring in place. Make sure the pig tail on the bottom coil is facing the drivers side. Both sides will face the same way.



Now follow the same steps for the other side. When both springs are in, bolt your shocks back up. Again, use a jack to lift the rear end so that the shock falls into place inside the mount. Put your tires back on and go take it out for a test drive, enjoying your new ride.



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Last edited by Matt86; June 28th, 2012 at 07:07 PM.
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post #3 of 22 Old June 27th, 2012, 01:42 PM
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Your springs came out a heck of a lot easier than mine. My front springs fought me somethin' fierce, and I ended up having to get the A-arm down to where it was almost vertical before they'd come out. Took me a heck of a lot longer than an hour.

Of course, I hear a lot of people talk about the rears taking forever, and I don't know that it's ever taken me more than an hour to swap both rear springs, and that's including getting the car in the air and finding all the right size tools.

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post #4 of 22 Old June 27th, 2012, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
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A pry bar is key for the front when youre talking out stock springs, you have to go underneath and compress the spring, as well as push down on the arm to get it to pop out. The rear is super easy.



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post #5 of 22 Old June 27th, 2012, 04:32 PM
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used in my sticky

lmk when you're done with the rear...
ps if you can make an assembly portion that would be great
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post #6 of 22 Old June 27th, 2012, 04:33 PM Thread Starter
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Awesome.

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post #7 of 22 Old June 27th, 2012, 04:58 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DSG2vGT View Post
used in my sticky

lmk when you're done with the rear...
ps if you can make an assembly portion that would be great
You mean putting it all back together? It's not really neccesary,It's just following the teardown steps backwards.



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post #8 of 22 Old June 27th, 2012, 05:10 PM
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You mean putting it all back together? It's not really neccesary,It's just following the teardown steps backwards.
there are SOME people out there that will need it trust me...
i know its a moment but just to be thorough

you by no means have to do this, i just think it would be a good idea...

ps again, good write up
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post #9 of 22 Old June 27th, 2012, 07:15 PM
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Good write up! Reps.

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post #10 of 22 Old June 27th, 2012, 09:31 PM
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good write up man! dont think its un-sticked either! i just moved it into the main sticky with all of the other write ups!


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post #11 of 22 Old June 27th, 2012, 09:41 PM Thread Starter
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good write up man! dont think its un-sticked either! i just moved it into the main sticky with all of the other write ups!
Thanks

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post #12 of 22 Old June 27th, 2012, 10:55 PM
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Great write up, Matt. Including pictures makes it much easier for others to follow. Would love to see you pull of the rear spring write up just as well
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post #13 of 22 Old June 27th, 2012, 11:18 PM Thread Starter
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I'll do the rear tomorrow.

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post #14 of 22 Old June 27th, 2012, 11:23 PM
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Really want to do this and cut a half a coil off my springs up front to drop it down a tad more. :\ I just never have the time to do it, knowing I'll have to get a new alignment afterwards.

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post #15 of 22 Old June 28th, 2012, 04:03 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MustangLouver View Post
Really want to do this and cut a half a coil off my springs up front to drop it down a tad more. :\ I just never have the time to do it, knowing I'll have to get a new alignment afterwards.
No excuses. You don't have to get it done right away, I would get it done asap because you could be eating the tires up if it's too out of whack. A couple days wouldn't really hurt though.



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post #16 of 22 Old June 28th, 2012, 05:16 PM
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No excuses. You don't have to get it done right away, I would get it done asap because you could be eating the tires up if it's too out of whack. A couple days wouldn't really hurt though.



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+1. Your camber and toe angles will need to be corrected and depending on
low you go you might need CC plates and a bump steer kit as well.

And good job in not letting the brake line just hang there.

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post #17 of 22 Old June 28th, 2012, 07:11 PM Thread Starter
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Alright boys, just wrote up the install for the rear. You better appreciate it, it was 100 degrees out and I am still sunburned from yesterday's install.



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post #18 of 22 Old June 29th, 2012, 01:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Matt86 View Post
No excuses. You don't have to get it done right away, I would get it done asap because you could be eating the tires up if it's too out of whack. A couple days wouldn't really hurt though.



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Also don't have a way to cut the springs. All I have is a hack saw. Lol. Don't think that would work out so well. Dont have any power tools really. I do have a dremel tool with some cutoff wheels, do you think that would work?


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post #19 of 22 Old June 29th, 2012, 01:33 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MustangLouver View Post
Also don't have a way to cut the springs. All I have is a hack saw. Lol. Don't think that would work out so well. Dont have any power tools really. I do have a dremel tool with some cutoff wheels, do you think that would work?


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this is what I used.

http://www.kmart.com/craftsman-4-1-2...p-00924542000P



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post #20 of 22 Old July 5th, 2012, 06:26 PM
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Excellent write up, took me about 2.5 hours from start to finish, never having dealt with suspension before.

One thing i might add, on the rears dont push the rotor down and have your buddy kick the spring. Theres a brake hardline right behind it.

Also, it is possible to do the front without rotor removal, even with cobra brakes. but you have to remove the caliper.
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