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-   -   damn the iac valve (https://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/96-04/303131-damn-iac-valve.html)

1_nice_03_gt May 19th, 2013 01:21 AM

damn the iac valve
 
went and bought one from autozone, installed it idle shot up to 2200rpms or it would just die! then i got p01506 :computer: guess ima just order a motorcraft one :cry:

justAbullitt May 19th, 2013 01:33 AM

Yup, never trusted parts store brands for important items, iac's included.

dark_horse May 19th, 2013 01:33 AM

ive got the exact same problem man...my rpms dont hang when coming down but stops rite at 1500 when rolling but come to stop down to 800rpm...its stupid lol

im going with an oem one soon!

EDDIEDOVER May 19th, 2013 01:19 PM

mine was doing that fast idle junk then progressed to fast idle that dropped suddenly causing car to to stall in traffic tried 2 from autozone both wouldn't run put on motorcraft fixed problem

SSG Pate May 19th, 2013 01:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1_nice_03_gt (Post 5332226)
went and bought one from autozone, installed it idle shot up to 2200rpms or it would just die! then i got p01506 :computer: guess ima just order a motorcraft one :cry:

LOL shame on you for cheaping out on this, the things we do to save a few dollars!:facepalm:

1_nice_03_gt May 19th, 2013 03:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SSG Pate (Post 5332720)
LOL shame on you for cheaping out on this, the things we do to save a few dollars!:facepalm:

lol i actually asked about them ( https://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...ro-valves.html ) cliff is running one for 75k so thought id give them a chance, n well it made the car sound like shit,idle high or die

bigjohnstud4200 May 19th, 2013 03:22 PM

Get the Motorcraft from rockauto, I believe it's about 80. I had the Autozone crap and it did the same thing. I swapped it out for another Autozone and it did the same thing but instead of 2200 RPM it was like 1800 or something.

SSG Pate May 19th, 2013 03:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1_nice_03_gt (Post 5332802)
lol i actually asked about them ( https://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...ro-valves.html ) cliff is running one for 75k so thought id give them a chance, n well it made the car sound like shit,idle high or die

You have to remember Cliffy is the exception he is a Mad Engineer Scientist he probally bought one from advance and then turned it into a space shuttle then forgot what he was doing and put his old one back on.

1_nice_03_gt May 19th, 2013 03:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigjohnstud4200 (Post 5332809)
Get the Motorcraft from rockauto, I believe it's about 80. I had the Autozone crap and it did the same thing. I swapped it out for another Autozone and it did the same thing but instead of 2200 RPM it was like 1800 or something.

whats the difference between these two:
MOTORCRAFT Part # CX1785 {#2R3E9F715AA, 2R3Z9F715AA, F539E857AA} A


$92.79
MOTORCRAFT Part # CX1808 {#2R3E9F715DA, 2R3Z9F715DA}

---------- Post added at 11:48 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:47 AM ----------

Quote:

Originally Posted by SSG Pate (Post 5332812)
You have to remember Cliffy is the exception he is a Mad Engineer Scientist he probally bought one from advance and then turned it into a space shuttle then forgot what he was doing and put his old one back on.

:outtahere:

cliffyk May 19th, 2013 04:03 PM

The CX 1808 is the older Hitachi sourced unit, the CX1785 is the newer device supplied by Nippon-Denso.

Did you disconnect the battery for 5-7 minutes during/after installing the new IAC? This is needed to reset the PCM's KAM (Keep Alive Memory) and force it to learn new idle air trim values.

Also make sure the IAC gasket is not leaking, and that you have no other vacuum leaks after the MAF...

arummel93 May 19th, 2013 04:07 PM

You guys can't crack your IACs open and clean them? IAC on my car has at least 300k miles on it. It acts up, I take it apart and clean the carbon out of it, good as new.

1_nice_03_gt May 19th, 2013 04:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cliffyk (Post 5332859)
The CX 1808 is the older Hitachi sourced unit, the CX1785 is the newer device supplied by Nippon-Denso.

Did you disconnect the battery for 5-7 minutes during/after installing the new IAC? This is needed to reset the PCM's KAM (Keep Alive Memory) and force it to learn new idle air trim values.

Also make sure the IAC gasket is not leaking, and that you have no other vacuum leaks after the MAF...

i did not do that :facepalm: n no vacuum leaks

cliffyk May 19th, 2013 04:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by arummel93 (Post 5332865)
You guys can't cracks your IACs open and clean them? IAC on my car has at least 300k miles on it. It acts up, I take it apart and clean the carbon out of it, good as new.

It is a crimped assembly--no way to open it up non-destructively...

Nitmare67 May 19th, 2013 04:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dark_horse (Post 5332253)
ive got the exact same problem man...my rpms dont hang when coming down but stops rite at 1500 when rolling but come to stop down to 800rpm...its stupid lol

im going with an oem one soon!

That's exactly how it's supposed to work... That is how the tune is setup.. There is a scaler that sets the min MPH to return to idle which is why your car will hang around 1300 until your under 5mph or a complete stop basically.



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cliffyk May 19th, 2013 04:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1_nice_03_gt (Post 5332872)
i did not do that :facepalm: n no vacuum leaks

From the shop manual:

http://www.paladinmicro.com/images/F...rimDesc-01.jpg

Here are the TPS output specs, if you open and close the throttle while observing the TPS output voltage it should follow these tracks. It also needs to be smooth with no dropouts or surges:

http://www.paladinmicro.com/images/F...orGraph-01.png

1_nice_03_gt May 19th, 2013 04:41 PM

ok thanks cliff, guess i'll give it another try and see what happens

dark_horse May 19th, 2013 08:00 PM

Not to thread jack but what is the proppwr way to test the tps? Do I disconnect the and test off the pig tail or keep plugged in and expose the wires and test off that?

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cliffyk May 19th, 2013 08:56 PM

The best way is with to with the key on and engine off (KOEO) back probe or use insulation piercing probes to monitor the TPS output signal--between the gray/white wire and ground--and compare it to the graphs I posted above. This one test confirms or denies both the consistency of the Vref (+5 V reference) signal from the PCM, and the TPS's operation.

The output voltage, as you open and close the throttle, should follow the line in the graph and be within the limits shown. As it changes it should be smooth and continuous with no glitches, dropouts or surges.

I use these insulation piercing probes from EZ Hook:

http://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/im...s/EZHXELRB.jpg

They have stainless steel tips and will easily pierce automotive wire leaving just a small nearly self-sealing hole in the insulation. Use dielectric grease to weatherproof the puncture, or RTV sealant for a more permanent seal...

arummel93 May 19th, 2013 11:49 PM

Straight pins (think clothing store pins) have always worked fine for me!

dark_horse May 20th, 2013 12:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by arummel93 (Post 5333742)
Straight pins (think clothing store pins) have always worked fine for me!

Not a bad idea man, I'm gonna try that lol

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