Shredded My First procharger Belt. Few questions guys, REPS - Forums at Modded Mustangs
 
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post #1 of 19 Old September 23rd, 2013, 05:39 PM Thread Starter
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Shredded My First procharger Belt. Few questions guys, REPS

I'm running a Procharger p1 with a 3.6 Pulley. I pretty sure I need a 108" from what I have read. Now I've done some searching on Google and it says not all manufactures 108" are the same. Which belt do you guys recommend?

Gator-back 108" I was thinking. And where can you buy Gatorback, I don't see them anywhere on my local auto-parts store websites? Unless you guys have other recommendations.

*Next question, whats the easiest way to replace this sucker?

*Also it looks like my 3.6 pulley and Alt Pulley are not aligned correctly. How do I align the pulley or am I suppose to align the bracket?


Thanks! Reps for any help.

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post #2 of 19 Old September 23rd, 2013, 05:48 PM
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amazon.com has gator belts. align the pulleys with a laser or straight edge. laser is preferred for accuracy


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post #3 of 19 Old September 23rd, 2013, 06:20 PM
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i went with a gatorback 107.4" belt with my 3.4" pulley and it was fine. procharger says a 108" belt from a 3.85-3.4" pulley. no way it'll fit that smaller pulley. i did run a 108" belt with a 3.75" pulley and it fit ok. i'd try to find a bit smaller if it were me.

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post #4 of 19 Old September 23rd, 2013, 07:20 PM
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I'm pretty sure you need a 108" belt. I've tried them all and I now run Autozone belts. I'm running a 3.7" pulley and I almost can't get the dang thing on its so tight. Shredding belt is an alignment problem. I went through three or four when I lost a shim off my bracket causing an alignment problem. One lasted maybe 1000 miles before it came apart and beat the living tar out of everything under the hood. I think that was the one that cracked my timing chain cover. Twice the only way I could get home was to cut the belt off and run on battery and electric water pump. A shredded belt will also damage the front pulley seal almost every time. I have changed several. It's a $10 part and really easy to change.

The only way to align the pulley is shimming the bracket with washers. It's basically trial and error. There are three places that require shims. The stud that goes through an idler pulley just above the A/C compressor. A bolt just above that. And the bolt that goes through the supercharger idler pulley. You cannot sight them in. I tried and failed. The best way is a laser pulley alignment tool. I didn't know about them at the time and finally used a metal straight edge. I laid it flat across the alternator pulley and extended it past the supercharger pulley. I was very surprised when I did it. The supercharger pulley was even on the alternator side but a full rib off toward the passenger side. I finally got the right combination and thickness of shims (washers) to get it aligned and haven't shredded a belt since.

P.S. I am now very, very careful not to loose shims when I take the bracket off. Which we have to do to change belts.

---------- Post added at 07:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:46 PM ----------

Attached is a page from the ProCharger Installation manual. It labels the bracket attach points as A, B, and C. I don't see a shim under the supercharger idler pulley (attach point C) but I had to put one there to keep the supercharger pulley from rubbing the alternator.


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post #5 of 19 Old September 23rd, 2013, 07:36 PM
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I'd recommend a Gates K061080 108.10" belt. Gatorbacks tend to slip and shred because of their cross pattern.

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post #6 of 19 Old September 23rd, 2013, 07:46 PM
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I would go with the gates belt like blown has said. Get a straight edge and make sure all pulleys are lined up correctly. If the supercharger pulley is off from the rest you will need to places shims or washers behind parts of the bracket until it gets aligned correctly. I had this problem at first and I shredded 2-3 belts in a few weeks time.



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post #7 of 19 Old September 23rd, 2013, 08:27 PM
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You can order any gator back belt from Summit racing, I actually just ordered my first Gator back belt from them. I have ran my fare share of gates belts and hopefully I have ran my last one dues to the squealing and easily shreading on the edges I have experienced.

Now as far as the gator backs shredding I have not heard anything about that until now, I know we run them on our heavy duty military machinery and they last under high heat and stress.


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post #8 of 19 Old September 23rd, 2013, 09:48 PM Thread Starter
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Awesome this is so helpful guys.



Thank you for that part number blown! Local store has one in stock.

Thanks Eagle, always appreciate your detailed answers! I gotta check and see if that seal is leaking. I hope not.


Seal looks ok from what I can see. I don't see it leaking. How might you change that seal though for future reference?

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post #9 of 19 Old September 23rd, 2013, 11:20 PM
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See I had also always heard gatorback was the shit until it came to blown apps and only recently, Im now wondering if I should swap my gator out for the dayco that the blower kit came with

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post #10 of 19 Old September 24th, 2013, 12:09 AM
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No problem with my gator back. I have little over 2.5K miles on mine.

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post #11 of 19 Old September 24th, 2013, 12:17 AM
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3.8 pulley with gates 108 belt for me.


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post #12 of 19 Old September 24th, 2013, 07:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PowerShiftz02GT View Post
Seal looks ok from what I can see. I don't see it leaking. How might you change that seal though for future reference?
ProCharger told me the part number was: Chicago Rawhide 11625. At Carquest its SLS 223020. The last time I bought one was two years ago. The cost was $8.59 plus tax.

Drain the oil and remove the head unit from the car. Remove the bracket from the head unit. Using an impact wrench remove the pulley from the head unit. Using a hammer and a small common (flat) screwdriver, gently tap the screwdriver into the old seal being careful not to scar the housing. Once you have the screwdriver in the seal, a little leverage will just pop it out.

Using ProCharger oil, lubricate the sides of the seal and the pulley shaft. I didn't do this the first time and I immediately burnt the new seal and had to change it again. If you have a socket that is big enough you can use that to seat the new seal. I don't so I gently tap the seal in a little at a time all the way around keeping the seal straight. Don't hit the seal directly you might damage it. I use a flat piece of metal to cover the seal. Put the pulley back on and tighten the bolt with an impact wrench. I have had the bolt come loose when I didn't. Reattached the bracket and mount the head unit back in the car.

Be very careful to watch were all the shims go. I ran my first belt 30,000 miles. Which was too long. I now change every 20,000 miles. I lost a shim when I changed it the first time. That caused my alignment problem which caused all the other problems. There wasn't anything wrong with my supercharger. It was complete operator error.

---------- Post added at 07:11 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:59 AM ----------

Off topic: If you have the head unit off I highly recommend installing this. It makes it a lot easier changing supercharger oil. I really wish it had been available the first ten or so times I changed supercharger oil. It makes changing oil a breeze.

Link: Procharger Centrifugal Supercharger kits

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^^ that is standard with the vortech v3 and yes it does make it a breeze
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post #14 of 19 Old September 24th, 2013, 08:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02TrickFlowGT View Post
See I had also always heard gatorback was the shit until it came to blown apps and only recently, Im now wondering if I should swap my gator out for the dayco that the blower kit came with
Actually most people misunderstand the gator back belts, the cross groves are designed to muffle noise and for better traction. The slotted groves allow for better traction on the pulley unlike the slick smooth surface of a regular belt.


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post #15 of 19 Old September 24th, 2013, 02:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eagle2000GT View Post
ProCharger told me the part number was: Chicago Rawhide 11625. At Carquest its SLS 223020. The last time I bought one was two years ago. The cost was $8.59 plus tax.

Drain the oil and remove the head unit from the car. Remove the bracket from the head unit. Using an impact wrench remove the pulley from the head unit. Using a hammer and a small common (flat) screwdriver, gently tap the screwdriver into the old seal being careful not to scar the housing. Once you have the screwdriver in the seal, a little leverage will just pop it out.

Using ProCharger oil, lubricate the sides of the seal and the pulley shaft. I didn't do this the first time and I immediately burnt the new seal and had to change it again. If you have a socket that is big enough you can use that to seat the new seal. I don't so I gently tap the seal in a little at a time all the way around keeping the seal straight. Don't hit the seal directly you might damage it. I use a flat piece of metal to cover the seal. Put the pulley back on and tighten the bolt with an impact wrench. I have had the bolt come loose when I didn't. Reattached the bracket and mount the head unit back in the car.

Be very careful to watch were all the shims go. I ran my first belt 30,000 miles. Which was too long. I now change every 20,000 miles. I lost a shim when I changed it the first time. That caused my alignment problem which caused all the other problems. There wasn't anything wrong with my supercharger. It was complete operator error.

---------- Post added at 07:11 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:59 AM ----------

Off topic: If you have the head unit off I highly recommend installing this. It makes it a lot easier changing supercharger oil. I really wish it had been available the first ten or so times I changed supercharger oil. It makes changing oil a breeze.

Link: Procharger Centrifugal Supercharger kits


Is that drain line just a valve? Twist it and the oil comes rushing out?

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post #16 of 19 Old September 24th, 2013, 06:03 PM
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No there is a plug at the end similar to what you would see in an oil pan. It takes two wrenches (9/16 and 1/2) to loosen and tighten it. The drain line just puts the plug where its easy to get to. Before I got it I would cover all pulleys and belts with paper towels, jack up the front of the car, crawl under it with a socket and two long extensions, and take the plug out. Then after the oil was drained I'd crawl under the car again with extensions to tighten it. I could never get a wrench on the drain plug from the top. There just isn't any room to turn the wrench. I've been told some people drain the oil into a small plastic cup to prevent the mess but I couldn't get a plastic cup under there and still unscrew the last few threads with my fingers.

Now I just kneel down, take the plug out, drain the oil without the mess of the paper towels, and put the plug back in. It's super easy. I really wish it had been available when I bought my supercharger.

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post #17 of 19 Old September 24th, 2013, 07:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSG Pate View Post
Actually most people misunderstand the gator back belts, the cross groves are designed to muffle noise and for better traction. The slotted groves allow for better traction on the pulley unlike the slick smooth surface of a regular belt.
Yes, but there are plenty of blower belt shredding threads about Gatorbacks where guys switched to a Dayco or Gates and the issue was eliminated. The argument was that the combination of cross and slotted grooves made the belt walk off the pulley.

I'm not saying everyone will have this issue, but when I was putting a blower on the car 3 years ago I found many of these threads.

---------- Post added at 06:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:13 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperMach1 View Post
3.8 pulley with gates 108 belt for me.
With my 3.6 pulley on the Vortech there was some slack with the 108" belt, but the belt was not slipping.

OP, you can try a K061075 belt which is 107.55" long. Not sure if you will even be able to get this one on, but you can try. I am using this belt with a 3.33 pulley and have about 1/3" until the tensioner is maxed out.

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post #18 of 19 Old August 8th, 2014, 03:20 PM
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hey bud I tore up the bearings on my procharger idler pulley and the housing looks shot too. where do I get the Reichard racing replacement? I heard its a lot better. or what should I do ? stock 6 rib set up its the smooth idler under the alternator
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post #19 of 19 Old August 8th, 2014, 03:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blownstang View Post
I'd recommend a Gates K061080 108.10" belt. Gatorbacks tend to slip and shred because of their cross pattern.
2nd that when I ran a procharger Gates worked the best for me.

As for alignment mine was off by a smidge and the only time I had belt problems was when my tensioner would start to go so might look at replacing that when you remove the charger to replace the belt.

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