gotta love stupid previous owner...... - Page 2 - Forums at Modded Mustangs
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post #21 of 38 Old October 6th, 2013, 11:55 PM
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Originally Posted by 99Anniversary View Post
You are wrong, they are called COPPER core spark plugs for a reason...




Mustang seatbelts ALL twist, it is so fucking annoying.. Ive had 2 mustangs and both did the same thing, if you pull your belt out at a more level direction towards the windshield they will bind and twist less often. Its soo frustrating when it folds over itself inside the little loop and just gets stuck.. ugh.. And don't even get me started on my cup holders...
I love my cut holders anything I put I. Them gets in my way when I shift


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post #22 of 38 Old October 7th, 2013, 03:43 AM
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PO owner of my gt had his head full of cow dung...

He installed a v6 CAI, with a v6 maf, v6 radiator, used silicone and epoxy on everything he couldn´t fix, managed to do a paint job that looks like some kindergarden kid did, never replaced anything suspension related, and the list goes for ages....



1999 Mustang GT
Drop in K&N Filter
Shift Kit
O/R Pypes X pipe
Glasspacks
BBK 78mm TB
CC plates
Ford Racing lowering springs
Big Transmission cooler
03 Cobra Rims
6000k 55w HIDs

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post #23 of 38 Old October 7th, 2013, 07:23 AM
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Sounds like some of you guys are buying obvious shit boxes, then complaining that they are shit boxes..

2004 Comp Orange GT
655whp/541wtq

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post #24 of 38 Old October 7th, 2013, 08:36 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by phatboy5015 View Post
Sounds like some of you guys are buying obvious shit boxes, then complaining that they are shit boxes..
my car may be a shit box, but id rather be pushing it than driving a chevy
Josh
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post #25 of 38 Old October 7th, 2013, 09:42 AM
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Sounds like some of you guys are buying obvious shit boxes, then complaining that they are shit boxes..
Lol. I bought mine to fix up. I always wanted a real Bullitt and this was the way to afford one. Plus It doesn't bother me to have a Bullitt that needs some work when I have a pristine Mach 1 sitting next to it in the garage. Now the Bullitt gets complements all day long.


Comp Orange 04 Cobra
Azure Blue 03 Mach 1
True Blue 01 Bullitt S/C
Torch Red 04 Mach 1 ,
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post #26 of 38 Old October 7th, 2013, 11:22 AM Thread Starter
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fixing things is half the fun IMO
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post #27 of 38 Old October 7th, 2013, 11:27 AM
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dont buy shitboxes.
coming from the guy that had to do a full body swap on a truck he bought.


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You only got one nom nom. One nom or two nom nom. Only one nom.
GO GO POWER RANGER!
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post #28 of 38 Old October 7th, 2013, 12:40 PM Thread Starter
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^ lmao
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post #29 of 38 Old October 7th, 2013, 12:41 PM
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^yay he read the black.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Marc View Post
You only got one nom nom. One nom or two nom nom. Only one nom.
GO GO POWER RANGER!
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post #30 of 38 Old October 7th, 2013, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by wilsonj1018 View Post
I gapped at 42 thou because copper wears away much faster than the "great" platinum plugs everyone swears by. anti seize is always a good idea with anything steel going into a different metal.
Josh
The copper in "copper" plugs is used as the inner core conductor, not the electrodes; it would not last 5 minutes used as an electrode. On conventional "copper" plugs the electrodes are made of nickel/chrome alloy.

NGK introduced the "copper core" in the 60's as a marketing buzzword, preying on consumer's lack of engineering knowledge by exploiting the fact that they used copper cores in their plugs--as did most other manufacturers. .

All modern spark plugs, with the exception of some special application devices, have a copper core and are thereby technically "copper" plugs, including the precious metal plugs that seem to upset you so.


I do agree about using anti-seize compound, and do use it at each plug change--although Ford makes no mention of it in the shop manual...

-cliff knight-
My Mustang
SOLD! - 2003 GT, UPR X, 24lb/h injectors, Magnaflow, 180° stat,
PP 70mm TB & plenum, Ralco RZ_flywheel, RAM HDX clutch, 3.73s, 262 rwHP/305 lb-ft.

new ride - 1998 SL500, 5.0L 32V 326/347 HP/tq
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post #31 of 38 Old October 7th, 2013, 01:44 PM Thread Starter
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any idea what the electrodes are made of? ive ran some "copper" plugs till they were literally gone, where as platinums or iridiums seem to never deteriorate. im quite curious now......
Josh
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post #32 of 38 Old October 7th, 2013, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by wilsonj1018 View Post
any idea what the electrodes are made of? ive ran some "copper" plugs till they were literally gone, where as platinums or iridiums seem to never deteriorate. im quite curious now......
Josh
Read my post just "above" yours...

-cliff knight-
My Mustang
SOLD! - 2003 GT, UPR X, 24lb/h injectors, Magnaflow, 180° stat,
PP 70mm TB & plenum, Ralco RZ_flywheel, RAM HDX clutch, 3.73s, 262 rwHP/305 lb-ft.

new ride - 1998 SL500, 5.0L 32V 326/347 HP/tq
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post #33 of 38 Old October 7th, 2013, 02:26 PM Thread Starter
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I did, hence why I asked. I should have been more clear, and asked "are platinum plug electrodes made of platinum" im guessing that's why they don't wear away as fast?
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post #34 of 38 Old October 7th, 2013, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by wilsonj1018 View Post
I did, hence why I asked. I should have been more clear, and asked "are platinum plug electrodes made of platinum" im guessing that's why they don't wear away as fast?
That is more clear; and yes platinum plug electrodes are made of platinum, and iridium plug electrodes are of iridium--with a caveat.

On a typical "single" precious metal plug only the center electrode is made of the precious metal (be it platinum or iridium), the side electrode will be nick/chrome alloy. "Double" platinum plugs have a precious metal center electrode and a precious metal insert on the side electrode.

"Why?" you ask.

In a classic single coil distributor/plug wires type system the established convention was that the center electrode would be negative (electrically) relative to the side electrode (ground), this is called a negative firing system. COP based systems also follow this convention.

Electric current (electrons) flow from negative to positive (Volta got it wrong), this means that in a negative firing ignition system electrons flow from the center electrode to the side electrode.

This electron flow carries with it molecules of the negative (center) electrode material which are deposited onto the side strap, eroding the center. So for best plug life the center electrode material needs to be made of something resistant to this erosion--tungsten and then nickel/chrome alloy fit this bill, with platinum and iridium being even better.

With the advent of distributor-less ignition systems it became possible to fire two plugs from each coil, often using coil packs, often containing two or more coils. In Ford's EDIS (Electronic Distributor-less Ignition System) used on the V8s before the COPs there were two coilpack, each containing two coils; each coil fires two plugs at a time. One producing the active spark (actually igniting a fuel charge) and the other producing a "wasted spark", firing near the top of the exhaust stroke.

These paired plugs also fire in reverse polarity relative to the other, one negative firing the other positive firing, as shown below:



In the diagram the #5 plug is firing in conventional "negative" polarity (current flows from the tip to the side electrode), the #1 plug in reverse "positive" polarity (current flows from the side to the tip electrode). Obviously for the reverse polarity plug the side electrode must also be made of a material resistant to erosion, the same material as the center if both plugs are to have the same service life.

OEM plugs for wasted spark systems are often cylinder specific having either a center or side electrode of precious metal. This is mentioned (but not explained) in the '96 through '98 Mustang Owner's manuals:



Note that the specified replacement plug are type AWSF-32PP, the PP meaning double platinum. In the note below the table there is a caution that plugs removed for inspection must be put back in the same cylinder from which they were removed; and that for the 4.6L 2V the #1, #2, #3, and #4 plugs have a PG, Platinum Ground, suffix; while the #5, #6, #7 and #8 plugs have a P, Platinum [tip] suffix.

This saved Ford a few cents per plug (* 1,000,000 cars a year = $40,000 to $50,000). In the the aftermarket where unit cost is less of an issue it doesn't make sense to stock two types of plug for the same vehicle so they are all double platinum.

All of the above is only so for wasted spark systems, there is no need to ever use double platinum plugs in a '99 through '04 GT...

-cliff knight-
My Mustang
SOLD! - 2003 GT, UPR X, 24lb/h injectors, Magnaflow, 180° stat,
PP 70mm TB & plenum, Ralco RZ_flywheel, RAM HDX clutch, 3.73s, 262 rwHP/305 lb-ft.

new ride - 1998 SL500, 5.0L 32V 326/347 HP/tq
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post #35 of 38 Old October 7th, 2013, 11:33 PM
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What 5 points you got froush and what width are they I want some.

My PO bought this car and I found a good couple of fucked up things.. mainly horrible exhaust welds and sketchy Mach 460 splices lol

Built, Forged, 5litre, Turbo cams, Turbo comming soon!
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post #36 of 38 Old October 8th, 2013, 07:40 AM Thread Starter
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damn good explanation, thank you for taking the time to do so Cliff.
Josh
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post #37 of 38 Old October 8th, 2013, 08:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WrenchThrower View Post
PO of my car for some reason disconnected the front door speakers....they also managed to break the drivers seat belt so they put it on the passenger side and put the pass on the drivers. I was going nuts trying to figure out why I always had a twist in the belt till I realized that.
Kind of funny PO on my car did the same thing except he rewired it to under glow lights

I had take the wires going to my tweeters to rewire them
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post #38 of 38 Old October 8th, 2013, 08:35 AM Thread Starter
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oh wow that's bad....some people should never own a car.
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