The Turbo Build Has Begun - Page 17 - Forums at Modded Mustangs
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post #321 of 5059 Old February 27th, 2014, 03:18 AM
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The UPR K member looks nice.... but ive seen 3 of them either cracked or broken that were never in an accident. They do not hold up at all to daily driving... I had one sitting in my garage awhile back that was brand new and I kept looking at it thinking it looks nice enough to me, maybe I could beef it up a bit... Then I started doing weld thickness checks and found them to be VERY inconsistent in a couple places damn right paper thin where the plates are welded and meet the tubes at a 45. In comparison I did the same thing once to an MM K member and and found them all to be very close.

Put it like this if your roll cage was welded in your race car with the same quality as that UPR K member I had it would not pass tech when they did the weld inspection... kinda scary huh.

Either way though I hope your ride turns out awesome, your happy and its fast. I know one thing for sure it will be pretty!

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post #322 of 5059 Old February 27th, 2014, 06:47 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nitmare67 View Post
The UPR K member looks nice.... but ive seen 3 of them either cracked or broken that were never in an accident. They do not hold up at all to daily driving... I had one sitting in my garage awhile back that was brand new and I kept looking at it thinking it looks nice enough to me, maybe I could beef it up a bit... Then I started doing weld thickness checks and found them to be VERY inconsistent in a couple places damn right paper thin where the plates are welded and meet the tubes at a 45. In comparison I did the same thing once to an MM K member and and found them all to be very close.

Put it like this if your roll cage was welded in your race car with the same quality as that UPR K member I had it would not pass tech when they did the weld inspection... kinda scary huh.

Either way though I hope your ride turns out awesome, your happy and its fast. I know one thing for sure it will be pretty!
Thanks for that info, Were those Chrome molley pieces that cracked? It felt tlike a good solid piece when I was installing and inspecting it, and i never read anything like this until now so I thought they were top notch especially the chrome Molly.


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post #323 of 5059 Old March 2nd, 2014, 01:56 PM Thread Starter
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Boys I need some info, im working on the K member, who has kept the Sway bar because I really would like to keep it for handling?
Also I have poly bump steer bushing should I use those or just go buy some stock one because I bought a bump steer kit?


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post #324 of 5059 Old March 2nd, 2014, 02:13 PM
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Sarge, I am running the factory sway bar through utilizing the MM swar bar relocation bracket here:
Front Swaybar Relocation Kit, 1994-04
By bumpsteer bushing are you referring to the Rack bushings? If so I used the MM solid bushings that are eccentric and allow 4 mounting positions depending on clearance with the oil pan, it also eliminates the slop from the factory rack bushings.
Steering Rack Bushings, Solid, 1979-04 Mustang with MM K-member

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post #325 of 5059 Old March 2nd, 2014, 02:18 PM Thread Starter
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I was referring to the power steering rack bushing, Right now I have the offset ones, but I wasn't sure if I should use those since I bough the bumpsteer kit that replaces the factory tie rod ends.

AS far as the sway bar it looks like it will line up just fine with the K member.

This is the bumpsteer kit I have

http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-e...er-kit-79.html

these are the bushings I have, and wasn't sure If I should go back to the standard ones since I have the Bumps steer kit.

http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-o...-bushings.html


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post #326 of 5059 Old March 2nd, 2014, 02:30 PM
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I had poly prior to the solid mounts. I would use the poly over the rubber, and on the offset if your rack is low, as in the tie rods are going upward to meet the a-arm you should be able to turn the offset bushing upside down to reduce the upward angle and not run as many washers on the Tie-rod bumpsteer kit.


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post #327 of 5059 Old March 2nd, 2014, 02:40 PM Thread Starter
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What I'm asking is who has used the offset with the bumpster or should I useful standard rack bushings.


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post #328 of 5059 Old March 2nd, 2014, 03:43 PM
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I've been running the offsets and bumpsteer kit since 05.

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post #329 of 5059 Old March 2nd, 2014, 05:24 PM
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I too am running offset rack bushings and bumpsteer. Works well. I am going to lower it more this year so we shall me.

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post #330 of 5059 Old March 2nd, 2014, 08:16 PM Thread Starter
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I too am running offset rack bushings and bumpsteer. Works well. I am going to lower it more this year so we shall me.
I put On the sway bar and it fit good didn't require any kind of modification, I ran out of time on it today because I had to work on my other mustang for a little while. Maybe tomorrow I'll get the steering rack and everything hooked up..


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post #331 of 5059 Old March 4th, 2014, 07:09 PM Thread Starter
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Still waiting on a few parts for my suspension so in the meantime!! The Short block is pretty much complete, only thing I need is Billett gears for the oil pump.


All my pistons are scuffed up and deburred, to ensure I didn't have any sharp edges which will be an attraction point for detonation.

Got the deck resurfaced, block honed out, and all that good stuff, The machine shop said the assembly was way out of balance but she is dialed in now. The guy that did the balancing Won an award at the Amsoil engine build off so Im certain my motor should be about perfect for high revolutions.

I also left my Main bearing clearances towards the loose side .0027 to .0028 to allow a little more oil to flow in between them in the upper RPM's. My only concern was losing oil pressure, but since I have the Cobra pickup tube and housing flow shouldn't be an issue.

















---------- Post added at 07:07 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:26 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nitmare67 View Post
The UPR K member looks nice.... but ive seen 3 of them either cracked or broken that were never in an accident. They do not hold up at all to daily driving... I had one sitting in my garage awhile back that was brand new and I kept looking at it thinking it looks nice enough to me, maybe I could beef it up a bit... Then I started doing weld thickness checks and found them to be VERY inconsistent in a couple places damn right paper thin where the plates are welded and meet the tubes at a 45. In comparison I did the same thing once to an MM K member and and found them all to be very close.

Put it like this if your roll cage was welded in your race car with the same quality as that UPR K member I had it would not pass tech when they did the weld inspection... kinda scary huh.

Either way though I hope your ride turns out awesome, your happy and its fast. I know one thing for sure it will be pretty!
I called and talked to them about this and yes they had a couple issues with their old stuff, but there is no issues with their new K members.......

---------- Post added at 07:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:07 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott2001GT View Post
I too am running offset rack bushings and bumpsteer. Works well. I am going to lower it more this year so we shall me.
I went ahead and ordered all new POLY stock style bushings since I have all the right hardware on my K member to correct this.


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post #332 of 5059 Old March 5th, 2014, 01:16 AM
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SSG, what kind of transmission are you running? Im thinking of going auto some day, maybe a turbo or blower.. what options are there?

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post #333 of 5059 Old March 5th, 2014, 06:51 AM Thread Starter
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SSG, what kind of transmission are you running? Im thinking of going auto some day, maybe a turbo or blower.. what options are there?
Im running a Built 4R70W with a Full manual Valve Body with a PA Flex plate!! Once the turbos go on ill be sending it to Fred Brown performance for a couple upgrades I have been wanting such as Trans Brake and a lockup converter, and a thorough inspection before I throw the power to it.


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post #334 of 5059 Old March 5th, 2014, 10:46 AM
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Im running a Built 4R70W with a Full manual Valve Body with a PA Flex plate!! Once the turbos go on ill be sending it to Fred Brown performance for a couple upgrades I have been wanting such as Trans Brake and a lockup converter, and a thorough inspection before I throw the power to it.
Is that a ford transmission?

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post #335 of 5059 Old March 5th, 2014, 10:57 AM
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Is that a ford transmission?
The 4R70W is the factory offered automatic for these cars, save the '04 which received the 4R75W.

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post #336 of 5059 Old March 5th, 2014, 11:19 AM
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The 4R70W is the factory offered automatic for these cars, save the '04 which received the 4R75W.
so that trans will take some abuse in stock form huh?

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post #337 of 5059 Old March 5th, 2014, 11:33 AM
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A fair amount. However, as Pate said above, he's running a built up 4R70W, not a bone-stock one.

<----I run a built 4R70W in this car, as well. It's a good Ford OD transmission with decent aftermarket support.

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post #338 of 5059 Old March 5th, 2014, 11:09 PM
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A fair amount. However, as Pate said above, he's running a built up 4R70W, not a bone-stock one.

<----I run a built 4R70W in this car, as well. It's a good Ford OD transmission with decent aftermarket support.
How much work/ money/ parts does it take to handle 500-600 hp?? aftermarket converters are a large part of the cost right?

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post #339 of 5059 Old March 6th, 2014, 08:14 AM
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How much work/ money/ parts does it take to handle 500-600 hp?? aftermarket converters are a large part of the cost right?
You'll have to get your own quotes there. As far as work and parts are concerned, the complete J-Mod article (not just the valvebody modifications) is a great resource. Yes, a good converter can easily retail north of $700.

TCCoA Transmission Article - Page 1

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post #340 of 5059 Old March 6th, 2014, 09:52 AM Thread Starter
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Worked on istalling the power steering rack last night, I ordered up some new standard polly bushings and they arrived, but i ran into an issue with the rack bolts. Seems the PS rack bolts are to long and wont allow you to tighten up the rack before running out of thread. so After a couple emails to some friends it was determined that the PS bolts need ot be replaced.

I called UPR and ordered a set of Grade 8 Power steering rack bolts so Ill be putting things on hold till I get these in. By the way UPR has some awesome customer service!!!

So those of you looking to install a k member remember that youll need new shorted Power steering rack bolts.

---------- Post added at 09:52 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:48 AM ----------

Another note, I was talking to an engine builder and was mentioning brass Valve guides upgrades for my heads. HE was telling me NOT to use those for a street car because they would wear out and burn up in about 20K miles or so. They are great for the track, but not that great for the street because brass is a material that wears easily as we all know anyhow. So ill be shying away from the whole brass thing now.


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