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post #1 of 22 Old June 15th, 2014, 08:17 PM Thread Starter
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Rear end help please

I own a 2000 Mustang Gt. The car has 3.73 gears in it that were either installed by a shop or the previous owner. I have always heard what sounds like gear whine or a bad wheel bearing. Only owned the car for 4 months. Fast forward till today while my dad and I were doing some car work I noticed a huge amount of brake dust on my rear passenger rim. Looked a little closer and the rotor is completely like gone and my brakes look like there is none left. There is a layer of metal shavings along the inner side of my rim which is probably from the brakes/Rotor. I already have new Ford racing bearings I had bought to do this job. My question now is do you think the axle is probably useless now? And any tips for the job?
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post #2 of 22 Old June 15th, 2014, 09:34 PM
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It sounds like your caliper has seized up. I just had this happen to me, but it's an easy fix.

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post #3 of 22 Old June 15th, 2014, 09:40 PM
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This shouldn't have hurt your axle, just your rotor, pads and probably your caliper is fried.

The rear calipers have a ratcheting mechanism that's used for the parking brake, likely that got jammed. I'd get some new rear calipers but also make sure its not the parking brake cable for that side that got jammed.

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post #4 of 22 Old June 15th, 2014, 09:41 PM Thread Starter
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It may have, I do have spare calipers but have no clue when it comes to bleeding the brakes and getting pressure back. Can't you just squeeze the line before you disconnect it to keep the pressure from escaping then put it back on the new one?

One detail I left out was that it looks like the top of the rear passenger tire is leaning inwards and the bottom is coming out. So does that definitely point to it being the wheel bearing?
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post #5 of 22 Old June 15th, 2014, 09:48 PM
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Your wheel bearing is probably fine. The whine you hear is probably from the gears. Mine whine when I'm coasting in gear, but it's not really a big deal, very few people can set up gears and not have any whine at all.

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post #6 of 22 Old June 15th, 2014, 10:16 PM
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You would still need to bleed the brakes if you squeeze the line. You need to fill the new caliper (and it sounds like you need one) with brake fluid. The gears are probably just shimmed incorrectly and I think your wheel bearing is fine. You are having classic symptoms of a stuck caliper like the others said.




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post #7 of 22 Old June 15th, 2014, 10:39 PM
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I thought the wheel bearing on my GT was going bad till I noticed the calipers were sticky. I replaced both sides just as general principle and all my "bearing noise" went away.

Fix what you know is broken first... Because the rotor is shot and the pads are full of dust, I'll say it's your caliper not your emergency brake. The Ebrake is a simple drum brake inside the rotor hat, so I doubt it's that, but that could be bad as well. May as well look while you're in it. A good sign is if the rotor comes off easily, it means your ebrake isn't stuck.

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post #8 of 22 Old June 15th, 2014, 10:56 PM
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Also, on a side note.. don't even try and mess with putting the e brake cable back on the caliper if you decide to keep it. It is damn near impossible. lol




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post #9 of 22 Old June 16th, 2014, 12:14 AM
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dont squeeze the brake lines. go to autozone and get the vacume pump and you can bleed them yourself. just fill the brake chamber and squeeze the trigger and it removes the air and sucks fluid through the line.

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post #10 of 22 Old June 16th, 2014, 07:33 AM Thread Starter
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Alright i guess I'll be doing the brakes today then. What would cause my rear tire to lean so much inward though? The other rear tire doesn't lean nowhere near as much as the passenger side.

Edit: Outside messing with the brakes and the outer part of the rotor that you can see is gone but the inside of the rotor is practically brand new not even a single groove in it. Someone mentioned an emergency brake possibly being stuck. Is that what would cause a problem similar to this? My emergency brake handle ripped through the bolt that holds it to the body a few weeks after I got the car and I kinda rigged it with a washer a two bolts so it wouldn't pull through.

Last edited by ShiftinGT; June 16th, 2014 at 10:40 AM.
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post #11 of 22 Old June 16th, 2014, 11:53 AM
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One detail I left out was that it looks like the top of the rear passenger tire is leaning inwards and the bottom is coming out. So does that definitely point to it being the wheel bearing?
Unfortunately if the wheel bearing is shot enough to let the wheel lean in like that you might have problems with the housing end and very likely that axle is shot because the bearing surface on it will be toast.

I'd also expect to be dumping oil out of the tube because the seal will be fried also. If the axle worked all the way through the bearing race then your housing end could be damaged also if the axle rubbed on it.

You need to pull that axle out and take a close look at everything, hopefully the housing end didn't get damaged.

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post #12 of 22 Old June 16th, 2014, 12:07 PM Thread Starter
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I have pictures of the pads. The one that is completely gone was on the outside and the one that has a lot of life on it but looks corroded or something was on the inside. Would that have cause the top of the tire to lean inwards? And a pic of the brake dust that accumulated before I noticed.



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post #13 of 22 Old June 16th, 2014, 06:11 PM
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Also, on a side note.. don't even try and mess with putting the e brake cable back on the caliper if you decide to keep it. It is damn near impossible. lol
I replaced my right rear caliper last Friday and that was the hardest part, but I finally got it after about 20 minutes.

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post #14 of 22 Old June 16th, 2014, 08:03 PM
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I replaced my right rear caliper last Friday and that was the hardest part, but I finally got it after about 20 minutes.
I saw a tip somewhere to grab the end of the knob on the cable end with the tip of a pair of vice grips and then use a big flat screw driver to pry against the vice grips to get it on and off. That worked pretty well for me, 30 secs or so.

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post #15 of 22 Old June 16th, 2014, 09:11 PM
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I saw a tip somewhere to grab the end of the knob on the cable end with the tip of a pair of vice grips and then use a big flat screw driver to pry against the vice grips to get it on and off. That worked pretty well for me, 30 secs or so.
That's basically what I did, it just took me a minute to figure it out. On my first attempt, I almost put a screwdriver through my palm trying to pry that lever open.

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post #16 of 22 Old June 21st, 2014, 09:50 AM Thread Starter
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So been busy all week and the bolts that hold the caliper bracket on were a pita but i just got them off and took a quick video and wondered if this is a sign of a bad wheel bearing. It moves back and forth and makes a noise when you turn it.
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post #17 of 22 Old June 21st, 2014, 09:59 AM
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That's basically what I did, it just took me a minute to figure it out. On my first attempt, I almost put a screwdriver through my palm trying to pry that lever open.
Lol Yeah I got my self pretty good a few months ago doing this lol

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post #18 of 22 Old June 21st, 2014, 10:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShiftinGT View Post
So been busy all week and the bolts that hold the caliper bracket on were a pita but i just got them off and took a quick video and wondered if this is a sign of a bad wheel bearing. It moves back and forth and makes a noise when you turn it.
Is this a sign of a bad wheel bearing? - YouTube
Moving in and out is fine, that is the play in a normal 8.8 axle due to the C-Clip design. It might be a sign that your T-Lok needs rebuilt if it is too much play (no idea what that number is, it's in the service manuals somewhere IIRC.

The other noise doesn't sound normal to me though... should be a smooth whirring noise. Only way to really know is to pull the axles.



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post #19 of 22 Old June 21st, 2014, 10:17 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah looks like that's what i'll be spending all day on haha, probably more than that. Hopefully I won't break that ABS sensor that sits near the dust cover
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post #20 of 22 Old June 21st, 2014, 12:34 PM Thread Starter
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What size bolt is the one that holds the locking pin in?dont wanna strip it
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