99-04 Weight reduction, mid level - Page 2 - Forums at Modded Mustangs
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post #21 of 41 Old August 4th, 2014, 05:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Macunicorn View Post
Is it legal to remove the crash bar???
The front bumper police won't be issuing any citations for removing it.


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post #22 of 41 Old August 4th, 2014, 08:24 PM
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post #23 of 41 Old August 8th, 2014, 08:06 PM Thread Starter
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post #24 of 41 Old August 9th, 2014, 02:56 PM
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Damn batteries are pricey. The guy wiring my car is trying convince me to buy two of those batteries since he can cram them both in the battery box. He's insisting I run two batteries. It'll be interesting to see what our cars weight when we finally get done.


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post #25 of 41 Old August 9th, 2014, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by bulloch27 View Post
Damn batteries are pricey. The guy wiring my car is trying convince me to buy two of those batteries since he can cram them both in the battery box. He's insisting I run two batteries. It'll be interesting to see what our cars weight when we finally get done.
If you are going to run two small batteries, wouldn't it be about the same weight to just have one standard size battery?

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post #26 of 41 Old August 9th, 2014, 05:11 PM
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If you are going to run two small batteries, wouldn't it be about the same weight to just have one standard size battery?
Same weight yes, but half the capacity of 2. He wants 2 in my car for twice the capacity.


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post #27 of 41 Old August 9th, 2014, 07:12 PM
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^OK, I see what your saying. I was only thinking about the weight.

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post #28 of 41 Old August 9th, 2014, 07:55 PM
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Two 11.5lbs batteries would still yield a little less weight than the 36lbs Motorcraft @ 23lbs. The two batteries installed in parallel also increase in capacity as bulloch stated and also doubles the amperage. It would be 972CA and 720CCA. The battery in my car is a motorcraft unit but it's not the factory installed battery. There's a sticker on it that says 10/04. I'm not sure what came factory, but I can't imagine it's too much different. In any instance, for reference, it has 650CCA with an undisclosed CA number. It's likely around 850-875CA. So with the two smaller batteries you're losing weight and increasing capacity & amperage over factory. Two $170 batteries though... Man. Lol

In a limited street or drag car, you'll never really draw high current numbers from the battery anyway though.
-----

Hey Baz, I'm curious about the remote terminals on your rear bumper. Is it essentially just large gauge wire running from the battery to the terminals? I'm considering putting some remote terminals in my trunk for added convenience.

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post #29 of 41 Old August 9th, 2014, 09:02 PM Thread Starter
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Just one 12 gauge wire going to the + terminal and one 12 gauge wire going from the remote terminal to the subframe/body as a ground.


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post #30 of 41 Old August 9th, 2014, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by BaznastyDave View Post
Just one 12 gauge wire going to the + terminal and one 12 gauge wire going from the remote terminal to the subframe/body as a ground.
I think the above (battery ground wire to the rear subframe) is ok for a rear mounted battery if you have welded subframe connectors.

If not I'd be a little wary of ground problems if you just connect the battery ground to the rear subframe.

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post #31 of 41 Old August 9th, 2014, 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by CalBoy101 View Post
I think the above (battery ground wire to the rear subframe) is ok for a rear mounted battery if you have welded subframe connectors.

If not I'd be a little wary of ground problems if you just connect the battery ground to the rear subframe.
Why? The entire unibody is welded together. Welded subframe connectors may increase rigidity but they won't increase electrical conductivity whatsoever.


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post #32 of 41 Old August 9th, 2014, 10:26 PM
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Removing the front bumper won't result in the cover caving in. I trap 136 mph, and it's been fine. Removing weight from the front is more important than weight off the back, Skinny front tires, front swaybar, k-member, front swaybar and seats will remove a ton of weight. Seats can make a big difference. my Jazz seats are 15lbs, including the brackets and cover, and its perfectly comfortable to me. For the rear, you can remove the quad shocks, dog bone, rear seats, and rear speaker assembly (unless that's necessary). Good luck.

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post #33 of 41 Old August 9th, 2014, 11:11 PM
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I'm curious, how much do the stock seats weigh? I'd imagine the power driver seat is pretty heavy.

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post #34 of 41 Old August 9th, 2014, 11:39 PM
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I'm curious, how much do the stock seats weigh? I'd imagine the power driver seat is pretty heavy.
Driver seat is between 50 and 60lbs. (power seat)

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post #35 of 41 Old August 10th, 2014, 01:10 PM
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My stock driver's seat with power and leather was 55 lbs, my passenger seat was 40-something. Remove both and put in a single 15lb racing seat, and you just dropped 85 lbs. I made my own mounts using Aluminum L-brackets. They are non adjustable, but they are very light and strong. .

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post #36 of 41 Old August 10th, 2014, 02:39 PM Thread Starter
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I dont see why there would/could be any problems with grounding to the subframe.

I already have lighter seats, not the lightest but my car's theme has always been a "show car that can do it all" type car. I can take it to car shows or swap wheels and drive it to the track bumpin the Mach sound system with the AC blastin and still beat higher level cars than what i'm supposed to, so i choose a seat that was lighter but was still stock looking.







Car already has
an aluminum DS
tubular K
Tubular A-arms
Dogbone removed
no swaybars
still has back seat with some of the bracing removed
trunk gutted
lightweight battery
lightweight bumper supports
No ABS or TC from the factory
Lighter Corbeau GTS II seats

Still debating on removing the Air bags......

Car really needs some 27"slicks instead of the 26's. Right at the end of the 1/8th i have to rip 4th or let it ride out 3rd and stop spraying and hit the rev through the lights. Found it a little faster to let it hit the rev on motor through the lights. If i had some 27's it should be spraying 3rd all they way through the lights.

Still have to set the pinion angle and clean it up and i'll go back to try to get a 6.99 or better pass. If it wont do it on the 26's i'll try some 27's and if that dont work i might step up to a 175 shot.


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post #37 of 41 Old August 10th, 2014, 03:42 PM
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Any idea how much your seats weigh baz? They look pretty nice for aftermarket seats.

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post #38 of 41 Old August 10th, 2014, 04:29 PM Thread Starter
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27lbs each, black leather and microfiber suede


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post #39 of 41 Old August 10th, 2014, 08:12 PM
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Seats look good, and the weight savings are pretty decent of course. Now I just want a 99-01 Cobra bumper and new hood first after seeing yours


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post #40 of 41 Old August 10th, 2014, 09:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BaznastyDave View Post
Car really needs some 27"slicks instead of the 26's. Right at the end of the 1/8th i have to rip 4th or let it ride out 3rd and stop spraying and hit the rev through the lights. Found it a little faster to let it hit the rev on motor through the lights. If i had some 27's it should be spraying 3rd all they way through the lights.

Still have to set the pinion angle and clean it up and i'll go back to try to get a 6.99 or better pass. If it wont do it on the 26's i'll try some 27's and if that dont work i might step up to a 175 shot.
Another option would be to raise the rev limiter a couple hundred rpms, if you're right on the edge. This way you won't lose too much gear ratio.

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