Picking up where we left off...
Replaced the sintered oil pump gears with billet pieces. It's pretty easy, aside from slicing your thumb open on some sharp edges. Loosen the rear cover with a T30 bit. Plop the old gears out, clean thoroughly, slather it in assembly lube, and put the new ones in. Then just bolt it down on the crank snout.
Then the windage tray was a piece of cake. Just put it on and torque down the spacers.
What isn't pictured is measuring pickup depth. I put the pickup tube on and snugged everything up. I put a block of clay on the oil pan bottom, put the pan on, and torque it down. I then removed it, and measured the clay with calipers. Measurement came out to 1/2". I'll have to add a small washer when it's done, but the oil pan still needs some JIC fittings welded in and the pickup tube is getting a new o-ring.
Meanwhile I replaced the freeze plugs. Just run of the mill 1 1/2" plugs. Knock them loose with a screw driver, pull them out, and hammer the new ones in with a socket. But of course being the dumpsterfire, nothing could go smoothly. Two were obliterated rather than easily come out like the others.
But it's nothing I haven't dealt with before. Grinder came out, cut a notch on the side to release the tension, and all was loose.
Now it's time for the top end.
The heads were thoroughly cleaned. I'm talking thoroughly. Runners, cam journals, cam caps, deck, everything. Cams were lubed up with assembly lube and torqued to spec. Then I had to clean up the block deck. This meticulous cleaning ate up a ton of time.
Once the deck was cleaned, I transferred dowels from the old block to the new one. Then I checked the head gaskets against the old ones, and verified they were the correct P/Ns. Those go on, followed by the ARP studs. Again, very tedious.
Here's where I got worried for a second. I noticed the drivers side gasket has a hole near the front of the block that goes right into the water pump cavity on the Romeo block. I frantically went to do research to see if I need to drill it like they do on the 3V swap. Then I realized there's no matching hole on the cylinder head, so it doesn't matter anyway.
With all that in place, it's finally time to put the heads on. They get placed, and you torque the studs to spec according to the manufacturer. Mine got moly lube and gradually torqued to 80 ft-lb.
That said, I'll go back and check the torque a few more times over the next few days.
Next up is the timing system. I'll be showing how I do the dowel pin upgrade, and then on to the wonderful chore of degreeing cams. Thankfully I only have to verify primaries.