How to change rear main seal? - Forums at Modded Mustangs
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post #1 of 21 Old January 17th, 2015, 12:46 AM Thread Starter
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How to change rear main seal?

So i dropping my trans to change the clutch and i figure i should change the rear main seal and i honestly dont know how . is this the best seal to get? Mustang Rear Main Seal (96-10) 4.6

Is their a special way that I am supposed to take out the old seal and install the new?
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post #2 of 21 Old January 17th, 2015, 01:07 AM
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Pull the old one out with a seal puller or something that has a small hook to make life easy. Tap the new seal in with a piece of flat wood and a hammer so it will go in evenly. Pretty straight forward.
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post #3 of 21 Old January 17th, 2015, 01:21 AM
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It is easier to remove the rear main seal housing. It is held in by 8mm bolts in the block and the rear oil pan bolts along with rtv


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post #4 of 21 Old January 17th, 2015, 08:11 AM
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+1 remove the rear main seal housing if you want to do it right, I don't like trying to beat a seal into the housing over the back of the crank. Make sure you lubricate the inside of the new seal with oil or silicone to help it slide on the crank and get a perfect seal.


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post #5 of 21 Old January 17th, 2015, 09:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stal94gt View Post
It is easier to remove the rear main seal housing. It is held in by 8mm bolts in the block and the rear oil pan bolts along with rtv
I agree, I changed mine like this last night and it was a breeze. Make sure you oil the new seal and it will slide back on the crankshaft very easily.

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post #6 of 21 Old January 17th, 2015, 01:18 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the help everyone!!!
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post #7 of 21 Old January 17th, 2015, 01:32 PM
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Condor, you need to put a 1/8" bead of something like Ultra Black RTV on the seal plate surfaces when you install it, make a circle around each bolt hole.

Also put some in the surface between the plate bottom and the oil pan.

Get those surfaces and the crank surface where the seal rides fully cleaned off also and put a light coat of grease on the crank surface.

When installing the plate go finger tight on the bolts and leave it like that for 30 minutes to let the RTV setup a little bit, then do the final torque on the plate.

Don't overtorque that plate when installing it, the torque spec is pretty low (7.5 ft-lbs or 90 in-lbs) and if its overtorqued it will warp and leak.

I like to put blue threadlocker on low torque bolts like this so they don't loosen.

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post #8 of 21 Old January 18th, 2015, 12:34 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CalBoy101 View Post
Condor, you need to put a 1/8" bead of something like Ultra Black RTV on the seal plate surfaces when you install it, make a circle around each bolt hole.

Also put some in the surface between the plate bottom and the oil pan.

Get those surfaces and the crank surface where the seal rides fully cleaned off also and put a light coat of grease on the crank surface.

When installing the plate go finger tight on the bolts and leave it like that for 30 minutes to let the RTV setup a little bit, then do the final torque on the plate.

Don't overtorque that plate when installing it, the torque spec is pretty low (7.5 ft-lbs or 90 in-lbs) and if its overtorqued it will warp and leak.

I like to put blue threadlocker on low torque bolts like this so they don't loosen.
This was very helpful!!! thank you i appreciate the input
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post #9 of 21 Old January 18th, 2015, 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by SSG Pate View Post
+1 remove the rear main seal housing if you want to do it right, I don't like trying to beat a seal into the housing over the back of the crank. Make sure you lubricate the inside of the new seal with oil or silicone to help it slide on the crank and get a perfect seal.
Silcone inside the seal???lol
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post #10 of 21 Old January 18th, 2015, 10:09 PM
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Silcone inside the seal???lol
Yes Clear silicone compound I use it all the time to lubricate the seals when I install them.


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post #11 of 21 Old January 18th, 2015, 11:15 PM
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Just to be clear these guys mean the spray silicon lubricant, not silicone sealer.

I like motor oil better since that's what's going to end up on the seal.

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post #12 of 21 Old January 19th, 2015, 09:05 AM
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I know it goes against normal thinking, but if you use the FelPro seal BS-40644 (the one that has a hybrid compound, not just rubber), the install instructions that come with the seal say specifically to NOT lubricate the seal or the crankshaft and that it must go in dry. I just did mine and was shocked to see that. I followed the instructions even though my inclination was to oil it. I have to assume they know what they are talking about. If you use the rubber version BS-40620 then that one you would lubricate.
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post #13 of 21 Old January 19th, 2015, 05:43 PM
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Installing the seal into the plate on a bench and then installing as an assembly is a mistake. Ask me how I know. It is difficult to get the seal back on without flipping the lip the wrong way. I had to redo my install after using that method.

I used this tool, and it was worth every penny. I did pay less than the current Amazon price, though. It sets it at the right depth and perfectly straight. No need to remove the plate with it.




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post #14 of 21 Old January 19th, 2015, 05:54 PM
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Holy Crap that's expensive.


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post #15 of 21 Old January 19th, 2015, 07:22 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonwrong View Post
Installing the seal into the plate on a bench and then installing as an assembly is a mistake. Ask me how I know. It is difficult to get the seal back on without flipping the lip the wrong way. I had to redo my install after using that method.

I used this tool, and it was worth every penny. I did pay less than the current Amazon price, though. It sets it at the right depth and perfectly straight. No need to remove the plate with it.

Amazon.com: OTC 7786 Rear Main Seal Installer for Ford: Automotive
want to let me borrow it? lol ill pay you

---------- Post added at 06:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:20 PM ----------

i like the idea of not having to remove the plate, just one less thing for me to possibly fuck up lol
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post #16 of 21 Old January 19th, 2015, 09:19 PM
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Installing the seal into the plate on a bench and then installing as an assembly is a mistake. Ask me how I know. It is difficult to get the seal back on without flipping the lip the wrong way. I had to redo my install after using that method.
The Felpro seal's come with a plastic "speculum" that keeps the seal lip from flipping the wrong way when you're sliding it on the crank.

Once its slipped on you just pull the speculum out.

So you don't need the installation tool with the Felpro seals.

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post #17 of 21 Old January 19th, 2015, 10:20 PM
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i never used a install tool with the felpro gasket. non the less if you use one of the inverted seals you can risk it flipping installing it with the housing on. my thing is i keep tools away from the crank. any scratches or nicks will cause a leak so installing it on a bench is easy. that install tool does look nice but it is a waste of money


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post #18 of 21 Old January 20th, 2015, 09:34 PM
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want to let me borrow it? lol ill pay you

---------- Post added at 06:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:20 PM ----------

i like the idea of not having to remove the plate, just one less thing for me to possibly fuck up lol
Sure.

Quote:
Originally Posted by stal94gt View Post
i never used a install tool with the felpro gasket. non the less if you use one of the inverted seals you can risk it flipping installing it with the housing on. my thing is i keep tools away from the crank. any scratches or nicks will cause a leak so installing it on a bench is easy. that install tool does look nice but it is a waste of money
If you had to remove your passenger side header to drop your tranny, which involves pulling the K-member to pull the header, you would not think it is a waste of money. It was cheap insurance. Getting the seal perfectly lined up and at the right depth is not rocket science, but it does often take one or two tries. Plus, I only paid about $85 as I recall.



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post #19 of 21 Old January 20th, 2015, 11:23 PM
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Been putting seals in with a punch and a hammer for 15 years. No issues.
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post #20 of 21 Old January 20th, 2015, 11:28 PM
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Been putting seals in with a punch and a hammer for 15 years. No issues.
Same here with the exception of more then 20 and I've never used one of those. The only thing I've ever used a seal driver on was those cheap ass CTIS air seals which are so deep in the Hub you pretty much have to.


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