Stall converter in - Page 2 - Forums at Modded Mustangs
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post #21 of 32 Old January 20th, 2015, 10:14 AM
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For a drag inspired car stay auto. For twisties and a strictly street fun car going manual is fun


bone stock from the factory!
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post #22 of 32 Old January 20th, 2015, 10:26 AM
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Oh yeah, I actually have a dedicated saving account just for car crap, which I only really put anything in when I'm working a lot of OT, other than that bills come first.
I was pretty close to getting a stall but decided on getting the cams instead. I'm still debating whether I want to go the 5 speed route or stay auto.
Stay Auto you'll have a lot less issues with problems like clutch disc failure, warping, cracking as well as warped pressure plates. clutch adjustment issues. clutches that almost cost as much as a good stall converter.. Look into a manual Valve body if you want to stay auto.


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post #23 of 32 Old January 20th, 2015, 10:28 AM
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How does the stall work out in our cars on daily driver say 340-400 rwhp cruising at 50-60 mhp 410 gears would be around 2000 rpm or so . will lock up keep heat building "slippage in check ?
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post #24 of 32 Old January 20th, 2015, 10:32 AM
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How does the stall work out in our cars on daily driver say 340-400 rwhp cruising at 50-60 mhp 410 gears would be around 2000 rpm or so . will lock up keep heat building "slippage in check ?
It works fine, cruising you'll be in a gear that will not allow it to keep slipping say 3rd or OD. If your in the 2500RPM range at 50-60 and you in a gear say 3rd that keeps the RPM below the stal it will not be slipping. It really hard to explain but you will understand when your in a car that has a higher stall.


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post #25 of 32 Old January 20th, 2015, 10:41 AM
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How does the stall work out in our cars on daily driver say 340-400 rwhp cruising at 50-60 mhp 410 gears would be around 2000 rpm or so . will lock up keep heat building "slippage in check ?
My car makes 410rwhp, and I take it on two hour trips without a second thought.

In a nutshell, you are right. Once the torque converter locks up, the car drives totally like stock. There is no slip once it is locked up.

When accelerating, you can feel the extra slip some, but once you are at highway speeds, the car will drive tame as a kitten. Normally, when accelerating from a stop, my rpms will go to about 3000 and hold for a second, then shift to 2nd gear, rev up to about 3000 gradually, then the torque converter locks up and they drop to 2200 or so. Once you get up to speed, the converter will unlock, shift to 3rd, then lock back very quickly. I don't really even feel it. You can keep the revs down to 2000-2500 or so if you are light on the throttle. I normally just go ahead and dig into it to get up to speed though. Your tuner will take car of all the shift points for you.

Pretty much from 2nd gear up it drives like a stock car at part throttle. Then at WOT, the car is a freaking animal. PD blower and turbo guys might not notice this as much because they have pretty much instant torque anyway, but with a centrifugal blower the difference was night and day.

I've done it all to my car at one time or another: gears, every bolt on imaginable, cams, a blower, etc. The only mod that even comes close to the torque converter in seat-of-the-pants performance is the blower. I think the whole "torque converters will ruin drivability" stereotype was started quite some time ago, and technology has really came a long way into making these things more tame on the street, but mean on the strip. If more people stalled their autos, they wouldn't have such a bad rap for being boring... it's kind of hard for someone to talk smack about your transmission when their neck is being whipped back at a 45* angle.


What does your dyno sheet trap?
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post #26 of 32 Old January 20th, 2015, 11:09 AM
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My old 69 HAD 3500 stall but with the old c-6 no od or lock up . I loved it in my younger wilder days but was concerned with the computer controlled transmission at lower cruising speeds. I want bigger cam for mean idle and of course that will require a stall but want to keep it as my daily driver and be able to cruise around town . Are you guys buying out of box converter or having them custom built for your application?
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post #27 of 32 Old January 20th, 2015, 12:54 PM
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My old 69 HAD 3500 stall but with the old c-6 no od or lock up . I loved it in my younger wilder days but was concerned with the computer controlled transmission at lower cruising speeds. I want bigger cam for mean idle and of course that will require a stall but want to keep it as my daily driver and be able to cruise around town . Are you guys buying out of box converter or having them custom built for your application?
I think you will be plenty satisfied with a stall for your application. Like I said, they are pretty tame when you start to just cruise. As long as the car isn't your DD, I'd say go for it. Heck even if it is a DD it is still very manageable as long as your comfortable with worse gas mileage around town, and having to grandma around in the rain.

I was also going to mention, prior to the converter, when I installed my cams, the car wanted to buck against the brakes when I came to stop lights and left it in D. I didn't really care, I just put it in neutral if I was going to be sitting awhile. Converter took care of all of that.

Call each manufacture you are interested in and give them your specs for the car, how you drive it, and any future mods planned. Dyno graphs help a lot if have them. They will spec you out a converter, and adjust it to stall at whatever speed they recommend for your power level. The two main brands for our cars are Dirty Dog and Circle D. There are a couple other ones I hear about people going with, but I have also heard of many problems out of them. Definitely don't cheap out on a converter, though. One of the $300 eBay units is not going to cut it, haha.

I could not be happier with my Circle D converter. It showed up at my door packaged up like Fort Knox, and had my name, order number, and part number all written right on the converter. Definitely gives you the feeling you are being taken care of!


What does your dyno sheet trap?
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post #28 of 32 Old March 25th, 2015, 03:58 AM
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I just installed a PTC converter in my 01 Gt. I have a CAI,4.10 gears, UPR x pipe, flowmaster single chamber mufflers, and a Diablo In Tune Tuner. It stalls around 3200 RPM. I read the above post about adjusting shift points and O.D. . Would I need to adjust these? I am currently running the "race" tune that came with the Tuner. I noticed alot of difference in shift points with that set up. Would I need to adjust things further? Thanks...
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post #29 of 32 Old March 25th, 2015, 09:21 AM
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I just installed a PTC converter in my 01 Gt. I have a CAI,4.10 gears, UPR x pipe, flowmaster single chamber mufflers, and a Diablo In Tune Tuner. It stalls around 3200 RPM. I read the above post about adjusting shift points and O.D. . Would I need to adjust these? I am currently running the "race" tune that came with the Tuner. I noticed alot of difference in shift points with that set up. Would I need to adjust things further? Thanks...
I'd leave the shift points alone. Best to leave that stuff to a tuner. What need to be adjusted are the lockup points for your converter. Do you know if your converter is a lockup unit?


What does your dyno sheet trap?
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post #30 of 32 Old March 25th, 2015, 12:27 PM
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Yeah it is a lock up converter. I can definitely feel when it locks up going down the road. Seems like it locks up like th the stock one.
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post #31 of 32 Old March 25th, 2015, 12:50 PM
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I believe the SCT tuner does let you adjust the shift points.

When I was running NA I was using a Bama tune and they do really good job on improving the trans settings in their tunes, it shifted hard and fast.

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post #32 of 32 Old March 26th, 2015, 08:24 AM
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You'll have so much fun with a converter. Blower and converter = lots of fun, for me at least. Car drives fine like stock when normal driving conditions.

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