Bullitt 5381 build - Page 3 - Forums at Modded Mustangs
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post #41 of 210 Old March 24th, 2015, 02:27 AM Thread Starter
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Well I at least checked the cam base to rocker clearance today and everything was good there. I guess I'll be ordering a degree wheel to at least see how it looks. I know to squeeze every last thing out of it, I needed to degree. As I said, when my tuner said not to bother, I didn't fight it. You'd think if the TFS heads move the centerline and screw up the timing, that they would tell you to use adjustable gears. Hell the instructions that come with them show stock cam gears. I'll order a degree wheel tomorrow and go from there I guess.... thanks for the input fellas.

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post #42 of 210 Old March 27th, 2015, 12:51 AM Thread Starter
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Ok gents,
So I think I may be screwing something up here in this degree process. Does it matter that I used a Mr. Gasket degree wheel that is in quarters?



So looking at this, (the edge of the plate being the "pointer") I counted it as 171*. Because the one on the MHS site goes to 180. Regardless, I did the process a few times and continued to get ~160 after adding and dividing by 2. Now it varied a few degrees as I repeated the process and got TDC again.

Here is the valve at maximum lift, zeroed the dial.


Here is how far the dial is already turned when I get to maximum lift.



At .050





Next time I hit it after passing the 0





This was the last time I did it and the pointer is slightly further away than the first couple times. (the last time the wheel turned a bit when tightening the crank bolt so i adjusted the pointer to make up for it, but it moved it further from the wheel due to the angle) I know I can definitely fab up a better pointer, but I just wanted to see how close I was and being around 160 seems like something is F'd up. So just to be sure I didn't screw the pooch from the beginning, I rotated the motor until the dots and colored links lined up again.



What am I missing here guys? Am I screwing up the process somehow? Hopefully I'm making a stupid mistake. I didn't even touch the other side tonight. Wanted to figure this out first.
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post #43 of 210 Old March 27th, 2015, 09:48 AM Thread Starter
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OK so I might be an idiot. I think I figured out at least one way I screwed up. Once you zero out the dial on max valve lift, then you rotate the crank back (counterclockwise) for your "before zero measurement correct? Then back forwards for the after zero measurement. It didn't dawn on me until reading another how to on degreeing. I wasn't finding centerline at all because I was rotating clockwise the whole time. So both my readings were as the valve was closing. I'll redo it tonight when I get off work and hopefully have better results....

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post #44 of 210 Old March 27th, 2015, 10:13 AM
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Correct. When you turn it counter clockwise make sure you go past .050 a little bit. Then turn it back clockwise to read the .050 timing mark. That is to keep the chain tight to get the correct reading.
This tool is ready handy. Allows you to keep the timing wheel tight and makes turning engine easy without worrying about the timing wheel moving.
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post #45 of 210 Old March 28th, 2015, 06:38 PM Thread Starter
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Alright so I think I got this figured out. My RH cam is actually pretty much where I want it at 112*. My left on the other hand is coming in at 106-107. So I'm good with the RH one, just need to retard the LH about 4*. I'm contemplating grinding the keyway off a bit to achieve this, since I dont need to mess with the RH. Unless someone has a good reason why I shouldn't? I've read some people actually prefer this method because its less prone to fail. Thoughts?
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post #46 of 210 Old March 28th, 2015, 06:42 PM
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Grind the Keyway done properly to fit its just as good as any other method. My sprockets are ground as well if it makes you feel any better.


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post #47 of 210 Old March 28th, 2015, 07:40 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSG Pate View Post
Grind the Keyway done properly to fit its just as good as any other method. My sprockets are ground as well if it makes you feel any better.
It does.

---------- Post added at 04:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:48 PM ----------

So as I rotate, i know its semi normal to have some chain slack since I don't have oil pressure, however is this much normal?



This happens at a particular location in each revolution. Then at a certain spot the tensioner will expand and all will look normal again. As it sits in the picture, the side of the chain with the tensioner is very tight. I wasn't really concerned with it, just figured I'd mention. Maybe just the way the lobes are at that spot pulling the cam?
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post #48 of 210 Old March 28th, 2015, 08:44 PM
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Your fine, I was worried about the same thing with the slack at a certain area with my car as well but it'll go away once oil pressure goes through the tensioner.



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post #49 of 210 Old March 29th, 2015, 04:08 PM
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Also you can pry out on the tensioners ratcheting device and tighten up the chains a little more.


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post #50 of 210 Old March 29th, 2015, 07:47 PM
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He has the plastic tensioners.

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post #51 of 210 Old March 29th, 2015, 11:53 PM Thread Starter
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He has the plastic tensioners.

That's correct. Its what the MMR timing set came with. Didn't get as much done today as I'd hoped, but I did get the timing close. Took forever until I nutted up and just hit it with a tungsten cutter and my dremel. Ended up getting the LH to 110.5. So its about 1.5 degrees off from the RH, bit way closer than it was. Thanks to all for the help so far.

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post #52 of 210 Old April 3rd, 2015, 11:47 AM Thread Starter
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Haven't got too much done this week so far. I did wire up my line lock. I got the SLP kit, but immediately was unsatisfied with the cheapo looking toggle switch it came with. Plus the instruction that come with it have you wire the solenoid straight to power and your switch controls ground. Not a big fan of doing it that way, so I went power to switch, then the switch controls power to the solenoid and the only constant on the solenoid itself it ground. Any who....

I de pinned the convertible switch plug for power just out of convenience.





And this is the new switch I got for it, nothing fancy but looks alot better than the one that comes with the kit.




I plan to mount the solenoid tonight


So for Christmas the wifey decided to buy me a new e-brake boot. Mine was torn and it bugged me. I figured I'd replace that while the car was apart. It was a pita. The instructions that came with the boot said to glue it on. Naturally I didn't want to do that. The stock one is just stapled, well I tried that, but i don't have a heavy duty stapler and the typical office stapler that I do have was not up to the challenge. I ended up drilling numerous small holes and weaving safety wire through it to hold it. It was tedious, but turned out ok.







---------- Post added at 08:47 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:34 AM ----------

Now I'm on the hunt for trannys, I've contacted promotion, liberty, and hanlon. They all seem to be similar price points for a similar product. I want to stay with a 3650 at this point, but there is not much point on me spending money on a good 10 spline clutch if I'm just going to snap the input as soon as I launch. So at a minimum I want a 26 spline upgrade, shitty thing is I'm in WA and those shops are in like FL, Michigan, and PA i think so with shipping I'm debating if i should just eat the core price and sell my trans outright. I did find a used promotion one for 2k with a fidanza clutch, but i didn't jump on it because I don't want a puck clutch if i can avoid it. Kinda wish I had just bought it.
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post #53 of 210 Old April 3rd, 2015, 05:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dassar View Post
Now I'm on the hunt for trannys, I've contacted promotion, liberty, and hanlon. They all seem to be similar price points for a similar product. I want to stay with a 3650 at this point, but there is not much point on me spending money on a good 10 spline clutch if I'm just going to snap the input as soon as I launch. So at a minimum I want a 26 spline upgrade, shitty thing is I'm in WA and those shops are in like FL, Michigan, and PA i think so with shipping I'm debating if i should just eat the core price and sell my trans outright. I did find a used promotion one for 2k with a fidanza clutch, but i didn't jump on it because I don't want a puck clutch if i can avoid it. Kinda wish I had just bought it.
If you don't mind me asking, what part of washington are you in?

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post #54 of 210 Old April 3rd, 2015, 06:00 PM Thread Starter
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If you don't mind me asking, what part of washington are you in?
I'm down in Graham.

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post #55 of 210 Old April 13th, 2015, 01:46 AM Thread Starter
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Alright so I got some walbro 465s and a division X hat on the way. Plan on ordering my rails and reg tomorrow. Going with an -8 feed and return. Using Aeroquip -8 ST-W line. (teflon) So today while waiting for the parts I decided to start the wiring. I ran 2 12gauge wires to some 40 amp relays, tapped into the pink/black wire for my signal wire. Now at this point do most usually just remove the FPDM? I'm not sure what the other couple wires are for, I need to look at a diagram.






Next question, I still have the line that runs from my intake mani to the evap canister on my fuel tank. My concern pushing alot of boost into the tank. What do those of you that are pushing high boost do with this? I've left it as is for the last year @ 7-8psi, but plan on cranking it up.




I removed the stupid heated PCV that some bullitts came with. My PCV has been bypassed for awhile and the "T" in the heater core line is a known failure point.

Gotta plug this port on the intake mani






Threw on the timing cover, valve covers, and oil pan. Starting to look ready to install.




Also got a promotion tranny on order (750hp version) along with one of their clutches. Hopefully be here in a couple weeks.

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post #56 of 210 Old April 14th, 2015, 03:29 PM Thread Starter
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Ok so when I got the MMR pan it didn't dawn on me that it comes with only a 3/8 bung for oil drain. My previous pan I had tapped with a -10 fitting and ran a -10 drain. Question is would I be ok running a -8 drain? I can't seem to find a 3/8 to -10 adapter and even if i used two adapters to make it, it seems kind of pointless to run a line that much bigger to bottleneck at the fitting. Thoughts?
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post #57 of 210 Old April 14th, 2015, 07:05 PM
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when dialing your cams in are you using an adjustable/solid lifter?


bone stock from the factory!
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post #58 of 210 Old April 14th, 2015, 07:13 PM Thread Starter
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when dialing your cams in are you using an adjustable/solid lifter?
Yep.

Any thoughts on the turbo drain line?

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post #59 of 210 Old April 15th, 2015, 02:03 PM Thread Starter
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Well I may end up removing the pan again and drilling the bung out to accommodate a -10 fitting. I used an -10 to 5/8 adapter with a crush washer and a nut on my last pan. Probably will end up doing the same with this one as I don't think I'll be able to weld on it without destroying the finish. Everything I've read suggests that I'll regret it if I just try to get away with the 3/8 fitting on the pan. Sucks it comes with one so small.
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post #60 of 210 Old May 16th, 2015, 02:57 AM Thread Starter
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I've been out of town for a few weeks so things have been a bit delayed. Between yesterday and today I have made some progress though.

Received my fuel line and fittings. I went with -8 Aeroquip ST-W teflon line and aeroquip "super jem" fittings.



Got the hat installed



Mounted the division X filter in the same location as the stock fuel filter



The regulator became pretty big once all the fittings were attached. This seemed to be the only location I could fit it.



Promotion tranny came in while I was out of town.



The promotion clutch, supposedly holds ~650hp. They use a spec pressure plate.







Reinstalled the intake mani.



Got the rails installed. I don't like how the division X rails flip the FRPS, but I'll make it work.




Unfortunately, I still need to pass emissions. So got the EGR all hooked back up. Had to hack up the bracket to clear the feed to the rail.








Flywheel installed



Clutch installed



Ready to go back in tomorrow.





Can anyone think of anything I missed that I should do prior to dropping it back in?
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