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post #1 of 19 Old March 9th, 2015, 07:24 PM Thread Starter
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What are some necessary gauges?

Curious what you guys think are necessary for gauges? Right now all I have is an AFR and Boost gauge. I was thinking of getting an Oil Pressure gauge but what else is really needed? Fuel pressure? Voltage?
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post #2 of 19 Old March 9th, 2015, 08:16 PM
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I think you definitely should have a fuel pressure gauge if you have forced induction. Also an oil pressure gauge is good because the ones in are car is just a dummy switch that turns on at a certain amount of pressure. I like to know what my oil pressure really is. That being sad I have oil,fuel,temp,and air to fuel.

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post #3 of 19 Old March 9th, 2015, 08:19 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BigJohnson03 View Post
I think you definitely should have a fuel pressure gauge if you have forced induction. Also an oil pressure gauge is good because the ones in are car is just a dummy switch that turns on at a certain amount of pressure. I like to know what my oil pressure really is. That being sad I have oil,fuel,temp,and air to fuel.
good to know. thanks
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post #4 of 19 Old March 9th, 2015, 08:21 PM
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fuel level gauge is important. if you dont track your miles you may run out of gas and be stranded.


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post #5 of 19 Old March 9th, 2015, 08:36 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by stal94gt View Post
fuel level gauge is important. if you dont track your miles you may run out of gas and be stranded.
lol


as for the fuel pressure gauge, which one should i get? the one in water? or no?
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post #6 of 19 Old March 9th, 2015, 08:54 PM
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I have the autometer ultra lite mechanical and it reads spot on with the gauge on my rail. It's not liquid filled.

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post #7 of 19 Old March 9th, 2015, 08:58 PM
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Is an air/fuel ratio gauge really needed if you have a fuel pressure gauge?

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post #8 of 19 Old March 9th, 2015, 09:10 PM
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In a boosted car I think ALL the gauges are important

Oil Pressure
Coolant TEMP
Voltage
Boost
A/FR
Tran TEMP
RPM
FUEL





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post #9 of 19 Old March 9th, 2015, 09:31 PM
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my aeroforce interceptor displays fuel pressure, trans temp, and a bunch of other stuff i forget all on one gauge. a wideband is definitely important.




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post #10 of 19 Old March 9th, 2015, 09:31 PM
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I just have a wideband, boost, and oil pressure.
I don't see the need for a fuel pressure gauge if you have a wideband.


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post #11 of 19 Old March 9th, 2015, 09:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by filmman03 View Post
as for the fuel pressure gauge, which one should i get? the one in water? or no?
Since you have a A/F ratio gauge you don't need a fuel pressure gauge.

Personally, I think a fuel pressure gauge is useless on a returnless fuel system. If you datalog the computer you will see a constant 39-40 psi. That is the differential fuel pressure at the tip of the injector. That is not fuel pressure at the fuel rails and not what an aftermarket fuel pressure gauge will read. I have one. It jumps up and down from 30 psi at idle to 49 psi at 6000 rpm WOT.

There is a formula that you can use to calculate what the pressure in the rails should be. It's 39 psi minus vacuum/2 or 39 plus boost. I challenge you to calculate that as you are racing. But you can't even count on using that formula. On warm days I've see idle as high as 55 psi as the computer increases fuel pressure to prevent vapor lock in the fuel rails. An absolutely useless gauge.

I think all of the gauges in the dash are good except for the oil pressure gauge. You already have boost and A/F Ratio. You might add oil pressure. After that I'd go with oil temperature if you race a lot.

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post #12 of 19 Old March 9th, 2015, 10:27 PM
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speedometer is important as well. you can guess how fast you are going but you dont want to have to be told by a cop that your guess was wrong


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post #13 of 19 Old March 9th, 2015, 10:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eagle2000GT View Post
Since you have a A/F ratio gauge you don't need a fuel pressure gauge.

Personally, I think a fuel pressure gauge is useless on a returnless fuel system. If you datalog the computer you will see a constant 39-40 psi. That is the differential fuel pressure at the tip of the injector. That is not fuel pressure at the fuel rails and not what an aftermarket fuel pressure gauge will read. I have one. It jumps up and down from 30 psi at idle to 49 psi at 6000 rpm WOT.

There is a formula that you can use to calculate what the pressure in the rails should be. It's 39 psi minus vacuum/2 or 39 plus boost. I challenge you to calculate that as you are racing. But you can't even count on using that formula. On warm days I've see idle as high as 55 psi as the computer increases fuel pressure to prevent vapor lock in the fuel rails. An absolutely useless gauge.

I think all of the gauges in the dash are good except for the oil pressure gauge. You already have boost and A/F Ratio. You might add oil pressure. After that I'd go with oil temperature if you race a lot.
That's some good info on the fuel pressure gauge

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post #14 of 19 Old March 10th, 2015, 12:04 AM
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Damn and that's one of the gauges I got lol. Right now I have the wideband a/f and the fuel pressure...guess I need to swap for something else if it really is that useless.

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post #15 of 19 Old March 10th, 2015, 12:12 AM
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Pate looks like an airplane cock pit

Eagle I'm pulling fuel off the rail for spray so I like to keep an eye on the pressure at the rail just in case.

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post #16 of 19 Old March 10th, 2015, 01:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stal94gt View Post
fuel level gauge is important. if you dont track your miles you may run out of gas and be stranded.
Only problem is that those gauges are too damn complicated to understand, especially while driving. I usually just stop like every 10 miles and put my oil dip stick in the gas tank and see how much fuel I have. Much more straightforward. Also I heard the little bit of oil that gets in the gas from that is good for the car.
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post #17 of 19 Old March 10th, 2015, 08:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stal94gt View Post
fuel level gauge is important. if you dont track your miles you may run out of gas and be stranded.


LoL

---------- Post added at 07:40 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:39 AM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Antoniolaporte View Post
Only problem is that those gauges are too damn complicated to understand, especially while driving. I usually just stop like every 10 miles and put my oil dip stick in the gas tank and see how much fuel I have. Much more straightforward. Also I heard the little bit of oil that gets in the gas from that is good for the car.
LMFAO

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post #18 of 19 Old March 10th, 2015, 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by stal94gt View Post
fuel level gauge is important. if you dont track your miles you may run out of gas and be stranded.
I had a Dodge with a gas gauge that didn't work. It averaged a whole 10 mpg. I carried two gallons of gas in my trunk just in case. On one cross-country trip I ran out of gas in the middle of the Nevada desert. I put the two gallons in and drove 50 mph hoping to see a gas station. I ran out of gas again about a quarter mile from a gas station. As I walked toward it with my can I just prayed it wasn't one of those that was closed and shuttered. It wasn't.

I really like having a gas gauge in my car.

I have made a lot of cross-country trips since. Out west when if the gas gauge gets anywhere near a quarter tank I look for a station. Gas stations are few and far between and you can't believe the signs. I have pulled into many a shuttered station looking for fuel.

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post #19 of 19 Old March 10th, 2015, 09:30 AM
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I'm wondering about wiring up the gauges as well. I searched though I'd say 20 threads yesterday looking to find install wiring tips and didn't find much. I think the dimmer wire for the headlight switch is blue/white, but was hoping to come across something more definite. I'm going to keep searching, but if anyone has any good threads that'd be great.

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