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post #1 of 44 Old August 5th, 2015, 02:51 PM Thread Starter
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K-Member decision - worth it?

I have been debating whether to get a K member for my turbo build.


Currently I have - UPR lowering springs, eibach shocks and struts, 03 mach1 sway bars (front and rear), UPR UCA and LCA (the ones that are adjustable), energy suspension ISOs, and UPR FLSFCs welded in.

I initially would have gotten the AJE K and A-arms with spring perches, plus added the perches to the K in order to maintain my current parts.

However, just the AJE K and A-arms is more expensive than a QA1 kit with coilovers, or the mild steel UPR kit

96-04 Mustang QA-1 K-Member Kit
96-04 Mustang Tubular Mild Steel K Member Kit

I like the UPR kit because, well, its UPR, but the QA1 kit seems to have more goodies (hardware and bushings) - however since I know the UPR guys and live close I can probably work a good package.

The AJE stuff is just about the same price as the Chrome Moly UPR kit as well (96-04 Ford Mustang Tubular Chrome Moly K Member Kit)

So which would you get for mild street driving, very occasional twisties, and occasional drag racing?

I am wanting to get a K member now, because that way I only have to pull the engine once. I will have some weight savings, and a little more room for the turbo stuff. Will front coilovers and rear coil springs be any sort of issues? Also I like the UPR kits because they claim not to alter the wheelbase.

So any insight would be great. I have the 4R70W, so if anyone has experience with the fitment with the 4R70W that would be nice to hear. Also will I need to modify the steering rack/rack and pinion or anything else? Or will it basically be a bolt in set up?

2003 Redfire & Black V6. Full suspension, 8.8 w/ 4.10s, tuned. 4.3L stroker + turbo capable of 550 hp soon

1992 5.0 Auto Hatchback...needs wiring, interior, ...basically everything

RIP: 2015 SHO PP, 12.87 @107 1/4 mile
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post #2 of 44 Old August 5th, 2015, 03:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Derfdog15 View Post
I have been debating whether to get a K member for my turbo build.


Currently I have - UPR lowering springs, eibach shocks and struts, 03 mach1 sway bars (front and rear), UPR UCA and LCA (the ones that are adjustable), energy suspension ISOs, and UPR FLSFCs welded in.

I initially would have gotten the AJE K and A-arms with spring perches, plus added the perches to the K in order to maintain my current parts.

However, just the AJE K and A-arms is more expensive than a QA1 kit with coilovers, or the mild steel UPR kit

96-04 Mustang QA-1 K-Member Kit
96-04 Mustang Tubular Mild Steel K Member Kit

I like the UPR kit because, well, its UPR, but the QA1 kit seems to have more goodies (hardware and bushings) - however since I know the UPR guys and live close I can probably work a good package.

The AJE stuff is just about the same price as the Chrome Moly UPR kit as well (96-04 Ford Mustang Tubular Chrome Moly K Member Kit)

So which would you get for mild street driving, very occasional twisties, and occasional drag racing?

I am wanting to get a K member now, because that way I only have to pull the engine once. I will have some weight savings, and a little more room for the turbo stuff. Will front coilovers and rear coil springs be any sort of issues? Also I like the UPR kits because they claim not to alter the wheelbase.

So any insight would be great. I have the 4R70W, so if anyone has experience with the fitment with the 4R70W that would be nice to hear. Also will I need to modify the steering rack/rack and pinion or anything else? Or will it basically be a bolt in set up?
Hey Derfdog,

Honestly? If it were me, i'd recommend the UPR Mild Steel K-member kit.

Its cost effective, doesn't alter wheel base and is a pretty straight forward bolt-on install. Obviously requires the motor to be supported, but its nothing you shouldn't expect from installing a K-member

If you'd like, i have a few of these kits in stock and ready to ship out. I'd be more than happy to get you set up with a price you're happy with paying.

Here's the kit:
UPR Mild Steel K-Member Kit for Ford Mustang 1996-2004

Shoot me a PM if you're interested!

Thanks,

- Sinister Mustang
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post #3 of 44 Old August 5th, 2015, 03:34 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sinister Mustang View Post
Hey Derfdog,

Honestly? If it were me, i'd recommend the UPR Mild Steel K-member kit.

Its cost effective, doesn't alter wheel base and is a pretty straight forward bolt-on install. Obviously requires the motor to be supported, but its nothing you shouldn't expect from installing a K-member

If you'd like, i have a few of these kits in stock and ready to ship out. I'd be more than happy to get you set up with a price you're happy with paying.

Here's the kit:
UPR Mild Steel K-Member Kit for Ford Mustang 1996-2004

Shoot me a PM if you're interested!

Thanks,

- Sinister Mustang
I am not exactly ready to pull the trigger but when I am I will definitely be in touch. Like I said I live about 1 hour north of UPR as well, so it may end up easier to get it from them.

As far as the coil over stuff, it shouldnt be an issue having coil overs in front and coil springs in the rear should it? And the kit should install just fine on the eibachs I have (if I remove the dust boot)?

Do you have any suggestions on a spring rate? I know UPR recommends a bump steer kit, any thoughts on that? And for the steering stuff since its bolt in I should be able to leave it as is, right?

If it helps, this will be going in when I do my 4.2 swap, so I will pull my original 3.8, and set it to the side, then install the k (possibly with the 4.2 mounted) afterwards, and make sure I have it properly supported.


Thanks for all the help!

2003 Redfire & Black V6. Full suspension, 8.8 w/ 4.10s, tuned. 4.3L stroker + turbo capable of 550 hp soon

1992 5.0 Auto Hatchback...needs wiring, interior, ...basically everything

RIP: 2015 SHO PP, 12.87 @107 1/4 mile
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post #4 of 44 Old August 5th, 2015, 03:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Derfdog15 View Post
I am not exactly ready to pull the trigger but when I am I will definitely be in touch. Like I said I live about 1 hour north of UPR as well, so it may end up easier to get it from them.

As far as the coil over stuff, it shouldnt be an issue having coil overs in front and coil springs in the rear should it? And the kit should install just fine on the eibachs I have (if I remove the dust boot)?

Do you have any suggestions on a spring rate? I know UPR recommends a bump steer kit, any thoughts on that? And for the steering stuff since its bolt in I should be able to leave it as is, right?

If it helps, this will be going in when I do my 4.2 swap, so I will pull my original 3.8, and set it to the side, then install the k (possibly with the 4.2 mounted) afterwards, and make sure I have it properly supported.


Thanks for all the help!
Hey Derfdog15,

No problem! If driving an hour north to pick it up is easier, i'm all for it! Honestly, if you wanted me to make it extremely convenient for you, i'd be more than happy to get you into the forum discount, and free shipping to your house. Shipping time would be about a day or so. Either way, its up to you! I'm here for the easiest, most convenient way to get my customer's their parts!

If it were me, i'd go with the 12-250. Anything more than that will result in a pretty harsh ride due to the weight savings from the stock to tubular K-member.

Having coilovers up front and coils in the rear is just fine. The front will be adjustable and can be set at the particular height you're looking for.

Looks like you have a good solid plan! Definitely swap the K-member with the motor out. It'll installation practically effortless. Just be sure to support the rack & pinion during install and you'll be good to go.

Let me know if you have any more questions!

Thanks,

- Sinister Mustang
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post #5 of 44 Old August 5th, 2015, 04:14 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Sinister Mustang View Post
Hey Derfdog15,

No problem! If driving an hour north to pick it up is easier, i'm all for it! Honestly, if you wanted me to make it extremely convenient for you, i'd be more than happy to get you into the forum discount, and free shipping to your house. Shipping time would be about a day or so. Either way, its up to you! I'm here for the easiest, most convenient way to get my customer's their parts!

If it were me, i'd go with the 12-250. Anything more than that will result in a pretty harsh ride due to the weight savings from the stock to tubular K-member.

Having coilovers up front and coils in the rear is just fine. The front will be adjustable and can be set at the particular height you're looking for.

Looks like you have a good solid plan! Definitely swap the K-member with the motor out. It'll installation practically effortless. Just be sure to support the rack & pinion during install and you'll be good to go.

Let me know if you have any more questions!

Thanks,

- Sinister Mustang
Sounds great! When it gets closer to the time for this all to start (hopefully December - at the latest next may) I will make sure to get in touch and see about the forum discount and free shipping. I will also be getting a bumpsteer kit as I understand they greatly improve quality. Thanks for the spring suggestion as well!

Would you recommend any specific rack bushings to go with it(UPR has offset and normal and I dont really understand the difference/point of them). Also UPR offers different hardware for the steering rack, would you say its necessary, or that I can just modify my stock stuff/purchase some decent stuff at a local hardware store when the time comes?

Again thanks for all the help.

2003 Redfire & Black V6. Full suspension, 8.8 w/ 4.10s, tuned. 4.3L stroker + turbo capable of 550 hp soon

1992 5.0 Auto Hatchback...needs wiring, interior, ...basically everything

RIP: 2015 SHO PP, 12.87 @107 1/4 mile
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post #6 of 44 Old August 5th, 2015, 04:18 PM
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I've got the UPR piece in my car. Not very impressed, but it is what it is, a bottom dollar kit. It works, no clearance issues. The more expensive pieces like PA racing and MM definitely are nicer from a fit/finish standpoint, as well as usually have a little beefier design and more flexibility from a configuration standpoint. You definitely get what you pay for.

I will say the big thing the UPR kit has going for it is how ubiquitous it is. That's the main reason I got mine; the turbo piping I had was specifically configured for a UPR k-member car, no guarantees for another design. Most kits are designed around it.
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post #7 of 44 Old August 5th, 2015, 04:43 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by WickedSnake00 View Post
I've got the UPR piece in my car. Not very impressed, but it is what it is, a bottom dollar kit. It works, no clearance issues. The more expensive pieces like PA racing and MM definitely are nicer from a fit/finish standpoint, as well as usually have a little beefier design and more flexibility from a configuration standpoint. You definitely get what you pay for.

I will say the big thing the UPR kit has going for it is how ubiquitous it is. That's the main reason I got mine; the turbo piping I had was specifically configured for a UPR k-member car, no guarantees for another design. Most kits are designed around it.
I know I was told if I wanted to autocross/road race a lot to go with MM as UPR was purely for street duty/drag racing so what you are saying aligns with that. Im really not looking to break the bank, but do want some weight saving. The kit I have was build on a stock K member, so I would think any K member will work with it. Did you also get UPR coilovers? Any thoughts on those? What about bushings/install hardware, recommendations on those?

2003 Redfire & Black V6. Full suspension, 8.8 w/ 4.10s, tuned. 4.3L stroker + turbo capable of 550 hp soon

1992 5.0 Auto Hatchback...needs wiring, interior, ...basically everything

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post #8 of 44 Old August 5th, 2015, 05:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Derfdog15 View Post
I know I was told if I wanted to autocross/road race a lot to go with MM as UPR was purely for street duty/drag racing so what you are saying aligns with that. Im really not looking to break the bank, but do want some weight saving. The kit I have was build on a stock K member, so I would think any K member will work with it. Did you also get UPR coilovers? Any thoughts on those? What about bushings/install hardware, recommendations on those?
If you built yours with a stock K you should have all kinds of room with a tubular one.

I've also got the UPR coilovers. Much like the K-member itself, they're on the cheap side. They won't fall apart, but they're not the best performers.

For bushings and install hardware that left some to be desired. Lots of deburring and general cleaning up had to be done. What really rubbed me the wrong way was they said you can re-use the stock bolts. I couldn't. The stock bolts have a large shoulder on them, slightly larger than the sleeve in the bushing. I even sent them pictures and measurements with calipers and they were skeptical. Basically said "well you'll have to buy our hardware kit" which was something to the tune of $90 IIRC. I machined the bolts down to fit, but it just generally rubbed me the wrong way.
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post #9 of 44 Old August 5th, 2015, 09:14 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by WickedSnake00 View Post
If you built yours with a stock K you should have all kinds of room with a tubular one.

I've also got the UPR coilovers. Much like the K-member itself, they're on the cheap side. They won't fall apart, but they're not the best performers.

For bushings and install hardware that left some to be desired. Lots of deburring and general cleaning up had to be done. What really rubbed me the wrong way was they said you can re-use the stock bolts. I couldn't. The stock bolts have a large shoulder on them, slightly larger than the sleeve in the bushing. I even sent them pictures and measurements with calipers and they were skeptical. Basically said "well you'll have to buy our hardware kit" which was something to the tune of $90 IIRC. I machined the bolts down to fit, but it just generally rubbed me the wrong way.
Thats really odd, I called them earlier and was told the only hardware that needs changing is the steering rack bolts, which they probably told you also. I also was told that offset rack bushings/normal ones and the hardware are only part of the package on the chrome moly K member due to the increased cost of the k member and them wanting to offset the cost to the customer.

Did you get the UPR bumpsteer kit as well? or one from another company?

2003 Redfire & Black V6. Full suspension, 8.8 w/ 4.10s, tuned. 4.3L stroker + turbo capable of 550 hp soon

1992 5.0 Auto Hatchback...needs wiring, interior, ...basically everything

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post #10 of 44 Old August 5th, 2015, 10:12 PM
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I ended up going with the UPR Chrome molly setup including A arms ETC. I have to say that it is a pretty solid piece and I am very pleased with it. The welds looked very good, and it bolted up fine. You will only need to upgrade your steering rack bolts because the stock ones will not fit. I bought grade 8 bolts from a local store instead of using their bolts.


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post #11 of 44 Old August 5th, 2015, 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Derfdog15 View Post

I like the UPR kit because, well, its UPR,
lol a lot of junk comes out of UPR's doors. K member is a piece. Probably on the very low end of all the K member options you have. Would not use it on a car that will see twisties. Guys have cracked them driving on the street after hitting a pot hole. The alignment is far from great, but seems to be hit or miss. You definitely need a K member with coilovers for a turbo setup. I'd look at Team Z if it was me.

---------- Post added at 08:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:15 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by WickedSnake00 View Post
I've got the UPR piece in my car. Not very impressed, but it is what it is, a bottom dollar kit. It works, no clearance issues. The more expensive pieces like PA racing and MM definitely are nicer from a fit/finish standpoint, as well as usually have a little beefier design and more flexibility from a configuration standpoint. You definitely get what you pay for.

I will say the big thing the UPR kit has going for it is how ubiquitous it is. That's the main reason I got mine; the turbo piping I had was specifically configured for a UPR k-member car, no guarantees for another design. Most kits are designed around it.
+1

---------- Post added at 08:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:17 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Derfdog15 View Post
I know I was told if I wanted to autocross/road race a lot to go with MM as UPR was purely for street duty/drag racing so what you are saying aligns with that. Im really not looking to break the bank, but do want some weight saving. The kit I have was build on a stock K member, so I would think any K member will work with it. Did you also get UPR coilovers? Any thoughts on those? What about bushings/install hardware, recommendations on those?
I'd be interested to see how the piping was routed and what size was used on this kit built around a stock k member. Oh... you have a V6? Are you going with a V8 now? Maybe that's why the piping works with the stock K?

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post #12 of 44 Old August 5th, 2015, 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Derfdog15 View Post
Thats really odd, I called them earlier and was told the only hardware that needs changing is the steering rack bolts, which they probably told you also. I also was told that offset rack bushings/normal ones and the hardware are only part of the package on the chrome moly K member due to the increased cost of the k member and them wanting to offset the cost to the customer.

Did you get the UPR bumpsteer kit as well? or one from another company?
I didn't get the bumpsteer kit. I re-used the rack bolts, but I made a spacer to make it work.
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post #13 of 44 Old August 5th, 2015, 10:57 PM
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FWIW, I've autocrossed with UPR mild Steel K and mild steel a-arms, and MM coilovers.
No issues.
Fitment on UPR was okay, the tabs where the a-arms mount need some "massaging" with a BFH To get a-arms in.
You will need different steering rack bolts from what I remember.
No bumpsteer kit here, just offset steering rack bushings.
You will need CC plates to run coilovers.

Not sure if coilover kits fit the eibach struts or not.


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post #14 of 44 Old August 6th, 2015, 10:18 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info @WickedSnake00 and @SlowSix . I called UPR and they said the coilovers are designed to fit any stock style struts so the eibachs will work fine.

With the offset rack bushings, is it hard to adjust the steering/align everything? I have UPR 3 bolt "shark" caster camber plates I got for free from a junkyard (missing one of the spacers) and then got the hardware for $50 from UPR and they threw in a new plate for one side under the warranty and of course free shirts, and decals and all that.

Since they have specs available for the rack bolts/hardware stuff, I will most just go to homedepot/lowes/ace hardware and buy all the hardware on my own, as grade 8 bolts and call it a day.

Again thanks for all the help everyone, and hopefully I can get this show on the road soon and actually get my build going rather than just stocking up more and more of a pile of parts.

Also I have heard the tabs need massaging from a lot of people, do you think that is due to shipping damage or due to poor quality control? I will be picking everything up myself most likely so if its a shipping issue hopefully I wont have to worry. Also BFH (Big Fat Hammer??).

I will probably get a bumpsteer kit just for peace of mind. IDK which style I need though, tapered or bolt through so I will be making some calls and find that out soon.

Also @WickedSnake00 random question, do you work for Cummins? I interned at CWI, in Marr Lucas last year and am doing so again this year (but finishing up very shortly). Hopefully I will get a full time offer and then maybe one day we can cruise or something.

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post #15 of 44 Old August 6th, 2015, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Derfdog15 View Post
Also I have heard the tabs need massaging from a lot of people, do you think that is due to shipping damage or due to poor quality control? I will be picking everything up myself most likely so if its a shipping issue hopefully I wont have to worry. Also BFH (Big Fat Hammer??).

I will probably get a bumpsteer kit just for peace of mind. IDK which style I need though, tapered or bolt through so I will be making some calls and find that out soon.
Yeah the tabs definitely will need massaging. Between a hammer, some kind of vise grips/channel locks, or a bolt and washer you'll have to "massage" them into place. I think it was more due to QC than shipping.

Another oddball thing I would note is the ball joint boots were garbage. Both of them split in a matter of months. Replaced them with generic off the shelf ones, no problems.
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post #16 of 44 Old August 6th, 2015, 01:04 PM Thread Starter
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I ended up going with the UPR Chrome molly setup including A arms ETC. I have to say that it is a pretty solid piece and I am very pleased with it. The welds looked very good, and it bolted up fine. You will only need to upgrade your steering rack bolts because the stock ones will not fit. I bought grade 8 bolts from a local store instead of using their bolts.
I missed this earlier somehow. Glad to see that the worlds most expensive 2V full comfort stang has UPR on it. I will most likely get the Mild Steel version due to the cost difference, and just add the rack bolts from a local hardware place (and maybe all of the hardware) and do offset rack bushings as well.

I also like the mild kit since its black, and I plan to paint the car gloss black and go fully blacked out. but thats just a secondary plus.

Sidenote: when do we get a max PSI E-85 pass?

Quote:
Originally Posted by blownstang View Post
lol a lot of junk comes out of UPR's doors. K member is a piece. Probably on the very low end of all the K member options you have. Would not use it on a car that will see twisties. Guys have cracked them driving on the street after hitting a pot hole. The alignment is far from great, but seems to be hit or miss. You definitely need a K member with coilovers for a turbo setup. I'd look at Team Z if it was me.

---------- Post added at 08:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:15 PM ----------



+1

---------- Post added at 08:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:17 PM ----------



I'd be interested to see how the piping was routed and what size was used on this kit built around a stock k member. Oh... you have a V6? Are you going with a V8 now? Maybe that's why the piping works with the stock K?
I have heard of team Z but the local nature of UPR is a major factor. I have also had good experience with their warranty stuff, as I got some caster camber plates from a scrap yard (that had been welded on and majorly messed up) and they replaced the plates for free.

I am keeping the V6, I have a 4.3 with forged internals, and a turbo grind cam. I will also be adding an aluminum driveshaft and 3k stall converter. I already have 4.10s in an 88, and a J moded transmission.

Quote:
Originally Posted by WickedSnake00 View Post
Yeah the tabs definitely will need massaging. Between a hammer, some kind of vise grips/channel locks, or a bolt and washer you'll have to "massage" them into place. I think it was more due to QC than shipping.

Another oddball thing I would note is the ball joint boots were garbage. Both of them split in a matter of months. Replaced them with generic off the shelf ones, no problems.
Good to know on the massaging. Ill anticipate it, but it seems pretty easy to correct. I also will probably just get energy suspension balljoint boots and put them on from the start for peace of mind.

2003 Redfire & Black V6. Full suspension, 8.8 w/ 4.10s, tuned. 4.3L stroker + turbo capable of 550 hp soon

1992 5.0 Auto Hatchback...needs wiring, interior, ...basically everything

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post #17 of 44 Old August 6th, 2015, 01:09 PM
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Also think the tabs is a qc issue.
Running coilovers, you really should run a 4 bolt cc plate.
And no issue aligning the car with offset bushings. Didn't have any trouble putting them on either.

BFH is big fucking hammer, so yeah you were close, lol

---------- Post added at 12:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:07 PM ----------

Also, just an FYI, my mild steel k is silver not black. Not that anyone can really see it anyway.
Unless I ended up getting shipped a chromaly one.

Imo, team z stuff is welded nicer but I don't think I'd say it is really Amy better than upr. They're damn near the same k member.


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post #18 of 44 Old August 6th, 2015, 01:23 PM
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We would have got a max psi pass tonight but it's raining. You will be happy with the mild steel as well. Years ago UPR had quality issues with cracking but it's been worked out and they are making a good product.
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post #19 of 44 Old August 6th, 2015, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
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Also think the tabs is a qc issue.
Running coilovers, you really should run a 4 bolt cc plate.
And no issue aligning the car with offset bushings. Didn't have any trouble putting them on either.

BFH is big fucking hammer, so yeah you were close, lol

---------- Post added at 12:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:07 PM ----------

Also, just an FYI, my mild steel k is silver not black. Not that anyone can really see it anyway.
Unless I ended up getting shipped a chromaly one.

Imo, team z stuff is welded nicer but I don't think I'd say it is really Amy better than upr. They're damn near the same k member.
I guess ill look into a 4 bolt CC setup, I just would rather maintain the ones I have and not have to spend more $$ than necessary. All the pics on UPRs site show Chromoly as silver, and mild steel as black. Good to know on the bushings. I need to find out what style bumpsteer I will need and then work on getting a set, most likely from the classifieds.

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post #20 of 44 Old August 6th, 2015, 01:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Derfdog15 View Post
I need to find out what style bumpsteer I will need and then work on getting a set, most likely from the classifieds.
Either the tapered or bolt thru bump steer kit will work, the tapered one is easier to install as it directly bolts into the stock spindles.

To use bolt thru ones you have to take the spindles out and drill out the tapered holes to 5/8", this requires a drill press.

The advantage of the drill thru ones is they are stronger but you aren't planning heavy cornering you could live with the easier to install tapered ones.

The other issue on it is making sure the connector sleeve lengths on the kits are the right length for your steering rack. If you are keeping the stock rack the standard kits will probably be correct but if you are switching to a manual rack you may need a kit with longer length connector sleeves.

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